A Walk on the Wise Side
MILAN — Snowflake sweaters, highland kilts and furs in abundance — the exceptionally hard European winter is making its mark on the runways.
The Alpine A-list came out at Fendi, where Karl Lagerfeld kicked off Milan’s autumn/winter 2010 season with one of the calmest and most elegant collections he has done in years.
Instead of giving the sense that the clothes were made to some complex theme with the furs hiding behind experimental surfaces, this Fendi show brought lush furs like mink and breitschwanz together in one simple coat — making this patchwork seem the height of sophistication.
“Natural, almost classic, furs,” said Silvia Venturini Fendi, who added that the collection revisited the family fur heritage.
Mr. Lagerfeld emphasized the varying short, medium and long hemlines, saying that he offered multiple choices, including a full, calf-length skirt, because no length is “now.”
But everything in this elegant collection seemed just right for now: the new volumes, from a short cape to full sleeves; the graphic black and white colors of urban chic that developed into a nature-knows-best palette of lichen green and autumn-leaf yellow. Even the footwear had a country vibe with rubber toes on shoes and boots.
The collection was Parisian, in that it had a certain elegance, especially in slender, long fur dresses for the evening, which seemed weightless and flattering. Other elements suggested that Fendi was going back to its roots: bags with the traditional geometric F logo. Only one fur was savage in its mix of spiky pieces. Otherwise, it was good to see Mr. Lagerfeld working in tandem with Ms. Venturini Fendi to produce a collection on the wise, rather than the wild, side.
suzy menkes, iht, nytimes.com