Suzy Menkes
Fendi's duo - Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi - both talked the same language.
"Real gold on fur - it has never been done before," said Lagerfeld, referring to a Fendi invention that made fox glow like a carpet of golden autumn leaves.
"And we want classic things," said Venturini Fendi, meaning not just the furs cinched with a wide belt but otherwise left to show the natural ripple of sable and fox, but also a new attitude to the iconic Fendi bags. Apart from evening clutches set with semiprecious stones, the bags were solid, sensible and - for the first time since Fendi baptized the "Baguette" a decade ago, they will have reference numbers rather than identifying names.
It would be good to say that Lagerfeld presented an equally firm statement with the clothes. But there seemed to be a slight hesitation between showing only the rounded short skirts with leather, fur and cable-knitted tops - or whether to extend the range. Leather skirts that hit the floor looked cool in proportion to the upper half but who is really going to wear such gothic floor sweepers?
The same applied to many of the leaf effects, although they were rather beautiful as cutouts on skirts or jackets, in tune with the bare trees projected as the backdrop. Where Lagerfeld scored was with the sweep of a cape-sleeved coat and the overall feeling that everything was perfectly in proportion, from the swelling sleeves to thigh-high boots.
The designer dismissed the idea that length can still be a fashion issue, saying: "You can't make hemlines a subject - it is not about the length, but the proportion." /iht.com