“THIS is modern day romanticism,” Gucci creative director Frida Giannini told us, by way of explanation for her autumn/winter 2012-13 collection. Romantic, yes – and dark without being sinister, despite the fact that there was barely enough light in there to even see the girls. We’d walked into a plush, dark plum carpeted catwalk which reminded us all of Christopher Kane’s show and all the fun of the London fashion fair last week – but this didn’t look like it was going to be light-hearted.
It was good-looking though – combining Gucci’s signature moneyed attitude with hard military lines and a touch of dandy grace: flat heeled riding boots, wide cut, cropped jackets with gold buttons and softly belted velvet smoking jackets, with plenty more velvet making up appliqué flowers on translucent chiffon and lace blouses, long skirts split at the back, riding trousers that flounced wide over each thigh, and very slightly glittering leopard print full length column dresses.
The palette barely ventured from black – and when it did, barely so. Dresses and skirts smothered in feathers had an inky glow; purple, burgundy, navy, forest green, dark olive and brown subtly eased out of the black, while the models’ hair - pulled back in two twisted strands either side of their forehead - gave the collection an innocent, nymph-like atmosphere despite the luxury androgyny on show.
Wide genie pants worn with tunic dresses and Seventies style low-waisted billowing chiffon dresses, worn with simple heeled sandals, provided a taster of daywear, before silk dresses featuring barely there floral prints of fading tulips or pale yellow flowers were fanned stiffly at the hem which spiralled the body.
Finally, a beautiful array of jewelled chiffon evening gowns appeared one after another - their embellishments in dark green or purple encrusting the entire bodice or simply gathering at the shoulder and hip and leaving the back bare. It might be too big a statement to wear on the Oscars red carpet, but we’d love to see somebody try.