Gucci Menswear F/W 2023.24 Milan

[Frederic01]

GUCCI

 

[Frederic01]

First Look.


VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[LadyJunon]

Seeing Gucci show a collection of actually masculine clothes after 8 years of whimsical androgyny is slightly unsettling.

 

[Frederic01]

Shockingly terrible show. Absolute train-wreck.

I can't believe they gave up Alessandro for whatever we just witnessed, which was some sort of weird Hedi-Slimane-Demna-Alessandro mash-up, that was trying waaaaaayyyyy too hard to be "louche" and "cool", but instead ended up looking stupid and mundane.

 

[Marc10]

This show really reaffirmed to me how vital a creative director with a strong vision is to a brand. Like it or not, Alessandro was that. The vision was there, loud and clear, in the clothes, in the shows, in the campaigns. You take that away from the brand, and you end up with this: a bunch of bland merchandise thrown in together with nothing clear to say. Or worse, borrowing from others (in this case Slimane, blatantly).

Hope it wont take long for them to appoint the next person...

 

[LadyJunon]

When Demna, Hedi and Raf have a threesome before directing their assistants to throw some clothes on the runway.

 

[grimm]

I hear they are not close to an appointment. This collection looks like it was designed not by committee but by the suits ticking off whatever trends they think people want, and ordering the minions to action their vision. After this showing it's apparent there is no Alessandro Michele mk2 waiting in the wings to take over. Pitiful.

 

[THD96]

The last thing we need in the new year is another "youth-obsession" house.

Whatever, just another parade of merchandise without any identity. Just some clothes to fill the store waiting for the next designer to arrive.
This is a sad parade but I'm not missing Michele whatsoever, his last few years are also nothing but a trunk show of merchandise.

They need to find someone that has a really strong POV or them going to end up being irrelevant again.

 

[vetements]

The bags and accessories are surprisingly ugly, forgettable and generally undesirable.
The clothes and androgyny gives me Celine vibes yet it isn’t as sleek, the skirts just doesn’t look good, the pink items look out of place and cheap.
Except the standard offering that are well, standard and wearable, the other details and proportion of the “new” clothes are just not to my liking. I don’t mind the low chested t shirts although its not something I will wear.
The puffer down jackets/ disjointed trousers are also simply just ugly.

Hope this is just an interim design POV.

 

[Boleyn Boy]

Why is this giving me PTSD about my father asking me time and time again to be more masculine? Hahaha jk, but yeah.

As a boy who didn't like the “freak” side of Alessandro's aesthetics but liked the androgynous side of it, and bought many pieces and adapted them to my personal androgynous style, I feel weird about this whole collection. Gucci was one of the very few big brands that was kinda my safe space for the last 8 years. I didn't like everything of Alessandro's output, but I could always find pieces I would buy and and make them my own. Now I feel alienated.

Is this how the first Celine show by Hedi Slimane felt to the previous Céline fanbase?

 

[Lola701]

Interesting. It felt like ASPESI sometimes…
I don’t think this needed a show but it really was a line up of clothes that they already sells in a much quiet way.
I think what’s lacking is a creative intention. Don’t get me wrong there were some good classic coats, some beautiful cuts but there was obviously a lack of details or IT factor.

Maybe it needed to be styled differently…

I get the wardrobe thing but it needs to be more directional. You can do classic with the spirit of Michele and Tom Ford. There’s enough stuff in the archives to play with.

 

[perhydrol]

This collection looks like something Topman Design would produce: a mish-mash of everything trendy without any coherence. There are some nice pieces, other try to emulate Michele's vision in a cold, corporate way, but as a whole, I can't really see this direction being successful. The main difference between this show and Michele's debut is that with Michele, people seemed to hate it because it was surprising and actually bold. With this collection, I just can't wait for the replacement.

 

[Wolkfolk]

Funny to see a brand who fired their Creaive Director for not making enough money anymore, waste so much money on such a non event.

 

[thiago:)]

That show screams to me Kering is in crisis.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Seriously, what a hot mess.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[bc collector]

I don't know if this is really such a mess, more likely it is what the suits at Kering expected Michele to do when they wanted him to shift gear.
To me, it screams "showroom fodder", the sort of generic, non-descript, inoffensive stuff that usually we connect to pre-collections. I'm not sure about the rationale of putting up a show for this. A look-book and a simple presentation would have sufficed and nobody would have complained.
It sure makes the point about the necessity of a point of view but at the same time, with the confusion reigning over the customers at the moment, I would not be surprised if it sold better than Michele's collections.

 

[Ruito]

My review of the collection: I didn't like it.

 

[Lax89]

I like some of the wool coats. They should make them shorter and less wide in the shoulders. The only thing that caught my eye in a positive way is the marine pullover.
The rest is too baggy, too androgynous for my liking. Styling is atrocious