Gucci F/W 08.09 Milan

[Salvatore]

Of course not, but both Lagerfeld's and Philo's aesthetics, although different, worked well with the existing Chloe aesthetic and ethos.

As I've said before, I don't think it's, generally, the case that people expect, or even want, designers of a fashion house to replicate the outgoing designer's work; it's more a question of expecting them to be sympathetic to the enduring aesthetic, or 'undercurrent' (as Jungla_Juana aptly put it).

Both Lagerfeld and Philo were very sympathetic to that 'undercurrent' (Lagerfeld said that he showed his softer side at Chloe and Philo paid heed to Ralph's advice that; 'people come to buy at Chloé for what it is, so it does not make sense to order a Chinese and get delivered an Indian!').

Incidentally, Philo produced quite a few designs that were obviously influenced by Lagerfeld's earlier designs, patterns, or motifs; just with her own spin put on them and as we know, she was very successful at Chloe and showed no sign of being up for the chop before she left of her own accord. So whilst it is true that; 'No EXISTING HOUSE HIRES A DESIGNER TO REPLICATE WHAT PRECEDED THEM!', it is also true that design houses will often hire designers to rework successful older designs, patterns and/or motifs and it is then down to whether the designer's own aesthetic meshes well with these older designs/patterns/motifs, or not, as to whether that reworking is successful (in the the case of Philo), or not (in the case of Melim Andersson [IMO]).

Very well said!

 

[amal]

very cool

 

[Candice89102]

I'm sorry, but I think this collection is amazing It's so detailed and beautiful.

 

[Marnii]

I can't believe people are still talking about Tom Ford!!!

I personally like this. Not because its wearable or because its cool but because it is not Tom-Ford-Gucci.

I think overt sexiness is so passé - its over!! Even Dolce & Gabbana have progressed beyond that whole showing the skin, showing the cleavage, tanned woman aesthetic and I love them for that. Just like I love Frida for not trying to emulate or continue the legacy of Tom Ford.

 

[Dkammern]

^i really wish Dolce and Gabbana showed more leg and less granny chic that doesnt fit them at all!

 

[seanutbutter]

Accessories

style.com

 

[seanutbutter]

Accessories

style.com

 

[Versace-Goddess]

Love the shoes and bags. Really chic and stylish.

 

[agneslo]

the idea of putting the bunnies and owl on the bag sounds really silly to me,,
and the whole thing just like a 5 yrs old little girl stole her mother's gucci bag and stick the leftover materials from her patchwork class.

 

[dior_couture1245]

To be honest, I actually really like the bunnies and owl bag...it just does not feel Gucci in any way.

 

[Spike413]

^ It reminds me a bit of the Julie Verhoeven designed LV bags from 2002, with all of the patchwork forest animals. There's no major similarities, just a vibe.

The studded boots are good too, but so terribly unoriginal.

 

[AnaBGD]

Boots and bags (minus the bunnies one) look great, I really like boots from #286!

 

[model love]

this had to be my favourite show of the season. loved the hair and makeup and styling was so stunning.

 

[vogue28]

^ I agree.

 

[tortoisie]

Gucci puts focus on mid-range goods as sales downturn bites

Does this belong here?

Gucci puts focus on mid-range goods as sales downturn bites
By Jemima Bokaie
30 April 2008
(c) Marketing, a Haymarket publication www.haymarketgroup.com, for more information visit www.brandrepublic.com or email [email protected]

Gucci is to promote goods with lower price tags as part of its strategy to boost sales. The decision is a sign that the expected consumer slowdown has started to bite and follows a decline in sales at the fashion house.

Gucci's attempts to increase its appeal by advertising cheaper designs are widely expected to be followed by other luxury brands as a way of combating a fall in sales over the next few months.

However, analysts are warning against other luxury brands following its lead. 'Luxury brands must be managed with great care,' said Richard Perks, director of retail research at Mintel. 'It's crucial to think long-term to avoid undermining the value of the brand.'

Gucci has previously used its licensed goods, such as perfume and sunglasses, as an entry point to the PPR-owned brand and only featured more expensive items in its core advertising.

It now plans to promote its more accessible products, including its 'double-G' logo fabric bags, to reinvigorate sales of its mid-range goods.

'While emphasising high-end products, we let up the pressure on our mid-range products,' PPR chairman and chief executive Francois-Henri Pinault told investors.

Sales of the brand fell 3.3% to EUR513m (pounds 402m) in the three months to 31 March. This compares with PPR-owned brands Bottega Veneta and Yves Saint Laurent, which grew 25.2% and 14.5% respectively over the period.

FACT FILE Most coveted luxury brands 1. Gucci 2. Chanel and Calvin Klein 3. Louis Vuitton 4. Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior and Versace Top designer brands currently bought by consumers 1. Calvin Klein 2. Ralph Lauren 3. Diesel Source: Nielsen's Global Luxury Brands Survey (February 2008).

[Factiva]

 

[Marcelina amelia]

i see a lot of Kate Moss there,
and a litlle bit of Sienna Miller from 2004.
Generally this collection is not a very orginal.
But generally its looks good,
i love make up and hair, kind of rock and roll vibe.

 

[Spike413]

That article is extremely worrying imo. What is a luxury brand without the luxury???

Regardless of how terrible the economy is at the moment, luxury brands would be insane to follow suit and cheapen the products.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^I agree....the label that used to be all luxury just several years ago is now quickly becoming the Forever 21 of high fashion.

And plus, we're in a recession, no business is doing well!...just stay strong and wait till the economy picks up a bit, it always does...no need to make rash executive decisions that could possibly damage the entire label in the long run, just for some instant, short-term security.

 

[mademoiselle_]

^^I agree....the label that used to be all luxury just several years ago is now quickly becoming the Forever 21 of high fashion.

you're kidding right?

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^I'm not!!! I'm totally serious. Not that I, or anyone, expected Frida to be a carbon copy of Tom Ford, it's just, she's made Gucci very girlie and trendy (and in many ways, easy for stores like Forever 21 to copy), in contrast to Tom Ford's ultra-luxurious, exclusive, power-woman aesthetic, which I feel is just more 'Gucci.'

I'm not trying to discredit Frida as a designer...in fact, I like a lot of what she designs, not everything, but a lot...I just don't think she's taken Gucci where it should have gone....she's just in a very difficult position...cleary, copying Tom does not work, as Alessandra was fired for doing that, but I also feel that ignoring what Gucci is all about is reckless on Frida's part.