Gucci F/W 08.09 Milan

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^^^
agree. every designer that is hired to succeed another designer at a label has the same exact problem. see paolo melim andersson with chloe. he had some big shoes to fill (p.philo), and managed to give the house a completely new vision keeping the chloe' quirkiness. that's what I expect with giannini. I want her to give us her vision, but keeping it coherent with the Gucci undercurrent. her collections are all over the place!!! no vision, no common ground anywhere, no Frida trademark...


I totally agree that what Frida should be doing at Gucci is showing us her vision, whilst keeping it coherent with the Gucci undercurrent/enduring aesthetic; but I totally disagree that that is what Paulo Melim Anderrson is doing at Chloe.

IMO, Frida is adhering to the enduring aesthetic at Gucci far better than PMA is at Chloe (not that, until this collection, that's really saying much, of course!).

I'm trying to keep an open mind but, unfortunately, Paulo will probably always be a bit of a square peg in a round hole at Chloe. IMO, the mistake that was made by Ralph Toledano (CEO of Chloe), was to believe that Chloe and Marni were interchangeable.

Incidentally, talking of Chloe, this collection definitely has a slight feel of earlier Phoebe Philo for Chloe, IMO (but done in a more intense, glamourous, Gucci way).

Perhaps Frida's trying to pick up some of the, many, ex-Chloe customers?! :D
 
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I totally agree that what Frida should be doing at Gucci is showing us her vision, whilst keeping it coherent with the Gucci undercurrent/enduring aesthetic; but I totally disagree that that is what Paulo Melim Anderrson is doing at Chloe.


Sorry Andersson, not 'Anderrson'. :rolleyes: :blush:

I don't like the guy's work, much, but that doesn't mean I should misspell his name! :doh:
 
why are the clothes so damn busy. its like detail on top of detail. Bring back the clean, lean, minimalist aesthetic it was so famous for.
 
The fact is that even if Frida remained true to the Ford template her detractors would have even more ammunition, comparing and complaining.

No EXISTING HOUSE HIRES A DESIGNER TO REPLICATE WHAT PRECEDED THEM! They hire people with their own vision. The suits decide if that is best for them or not.

Does anyone think Lagerfeld' Chloe for example was the same as Phoebe's or Andersson's?
 
i like it,

its decadent, smoky and russian.

i don't really think it looks like cavalli that much- he is glitzy and quite tacky imo.
 
yeah i do see chloe in this , this collection is more suited for chloe in fact , chloe girls are part urban part boho , the dresses and tops ( the pants are ugly IMO) are good .
 
Though I am not a fan of Frida and I find her unoriginal , I have give her credit in that , she is selling clothes , girls will want , and her collections are soaked with accessories , I like the sort of indian/gypsy jewelry, I have to admit
 
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yeah PMA's work at chloe is bland as pea soup , i have a bad feeling this time too lol .
 
I agree with the comments above, the boots are great. And I like the collection quite a lot. Boho and rock style are a combination that I adore.
 
Really not happy with Gucci these days. I like the Chic that was there for one season after Tom left.
 
The fact is that even if Frida remained true to the Ford template her detractors would have even more ammunition, comparing and complaining.

No EXISTING HOUSE HIRES A DESIGNER TO REPLICATE WHAT PRECEDED THEM! They hire people with their own vision. The suits decide if that is best for them or not.

Does anyone think Lagerfeld' Chloe for example was the same as Phoebe's or Andersson's?


Of course not, but both Lagerfeld's and Philo's aesthetics, although different, worked well with the existing Chloe aesthetic and ethos.

As I've said before, I don't think it's, generally, the case that people expect, or even want, designers of a fashion house to replicate the outgoing designer's work; it's more a question of expecting them to be sympathetic to the enduring aesthetic, or 'undercurrent' (as Jungla_Juana aptly put it).

Both Lagerfeld and Philo were very sympathetic to that 'undercurrent' (Lagerfeld said that he showed his softer side at Chloe and Philo paid heed to Ralph's advice that; 'people come to buy at Chloé for what it is, so it does not make sense to order a Chinese and get delivered an Indian!').

Incidentally, Philo produced quite a few designs that were obviously influenced by Lagerfeld's earlier designs, patterns, or motifs; just with her own spin put on them and as we know, she was very successful at Chloe and showed no sign of being up for the chop before she left of her own accord. So whilst it is true that; 'No EXISTING HOUSE HIRES A DESIGNER TO REPLICATE WHAT PRECEDED THEM!', it is also true that design houses will often hire designers to rework successful older designs, patterns and/or motifs and it is then down to whether the designer's own aesthetic meshes well with these older designs/patterns/motifs, or not, as to whether that reworking is successful (in the the case of Philo), or not (in the case of Melim Andersson [IMO]). :smile:
 
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i ama ctually amazed what i am writing here; but i really like the collection. It is very Gucci
 

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