Haider Ackermann - Designer, Creative Director of Canada Goose & Tom Ford

[Lola701]

And he will show in Paris!
Ok!!

 

[tricotineacetat]

Yeah, get what you mean, but it’s not intellectual pretentiousness. There’s a lightness to him. He is an egocentric and a narcissist, but I don’t think pretentious is the right word for Tom.

If Peter Hawkings wasn‘t delivering impactful enough fashion statement and merely presented 'business as usual' and Haider Ackermann is not Tom Ford enough in spirit, who else do you think would be a realistic enough choice for the brand that has both an excellent industry network AND can deliver a strong fashion statement?

I don‘t think Tom Ford is an institution with the same sacred integrity as one would relate to Jil Sander, Margiela or Helmut Lang. If that was the case and they wanted to keep the most consistency, Peter Hawking could have stayed.

 

[Creative]

I think they just need to close the rtw part of the brand. The sooner the better. Or maybe focus in menswear without shows.

 

[IndigoHomme]

The focus of this signing is definitely tailoring, Haider is truly a master at it.

 

[Lola701]

I think they just need to close the rtw part of the brand. The sooner the better. Or maybe focus in menswear without shows.

Tom clearly wants his brand to be more than he has achieved.
I truly think that there are a lot more brands that should close the RTW before Tom Ford.

Here is a story to tell and things to explore.

 

[fenty]

I feel like he will fit right in! Can't wait to see his version of TF

Photos style /showstudio/fashionbombdaily

View attachment 1303378 View attachment 1303379 View attachment 1303380

Spring Summer 2011 is TF all the way!!!!

 

[Lola701]

^

Tom clearly wants his brand to be more than he has achieved.
I truly think that there are a lot more brands that should close the RTW before Tom Ford.

Here is a story to tell and things to explore.

And to add to my comment, Alexander Mcqueen would be first on the list because clearly, there’s nothing to write there anymore.

 

[Norden]

I don’t understand the comments about him being a bad fit. His berlutti had a similar lushness as Tom ford, and he shares this sensual spirit. I wonder if he can relax his women’s wear and not over design it. I hope for Haider he gets time to really infuse the house with more culture and depth. It’s what it needs. Peter Hawkins had something shallow, it was very much a pea coat for 900 euros from a mid range brand.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I don’t understand the comments about him being a bad fit. His berlutti had a similar lushness as Tom ford, and he shares this sensual spirit. I wonder if he can relax his women’s wear and not over design it. I hope for Haider he gets time to really infuse the house with more culture and depth. It’s what it needs. Peter Hawkins had something shallow, it was very much a pea coat for 900 euros from a mid range brand.

Peter could be a good choice for Burberry though, his style isn‘t too far away from Christopher Bailey‘s… who did the most memorable contribution to Burberry‘s legacy

 

[thiago:)]

Very exciting news! Curious to see how is going to approach accessories.

 

[Nimsay]

Did tom break the internet. It took me forever to login and post here....


OMG WOW !!!!!! SENSATIONAL NEWS

 

[Lola701]

Peter could be a good choice for Burberry though, his style isn‘t too far away from Christopher Bailey‘s… who did the most memorable contribution to Burberry‘s legacy

It will be interesting to see the development post Lee at Burberry because a strategy will be needed first.
Under Bailey, the money maker was the BRIT line. They merged all the lines to not dilute the brand.
Now they are back into a check-fest….And Hawkings, while a Tom Ford alumni like Bailey, comes from a more formal kind of aesthetic.

Tbh, I think after Lee, they will actually struggle to attract stars designers so Hawkings may be a good fit. He lives in London anyway so it all match I guess.

 

[LadyJunon]

Haider Ackermann Is Named Creative Director of Tom Ford

By Luke Leitch
September 4, 2024

Haider Ackermann is the new creative director of Tom Ford, effective today. “It is with tremendous pride that I will seek to honor the legacy of Tom Ford, a man I have long admired and have the utmost respect for,” said Ackermann in a statement released this morning as he was named in the role by Ford's owner , The Estée Lauder Companies Inc (ELC).

“We are delighted to welcome Haider Ackermann to Tom Ford,” William P. Lauder, executive chairman of ELC, said in a statement to Vogue Business: “Haider’s appointment strengthens our ambitions for this enormously successful brand. His unique and insightful vision will further enhance the house’s global impact on fashion and culture.” Ford, who founded his eponymous brand in 2005, stepped down in 2023 following its $2.8 billion sale to ELC the previous year.

Ackermann, who was born in Bogotá, Colombia, and adopted by a French family, will be based in his home city of Paris, the brand said today. His role makes him responsible for shaping all of Tom Ford’s fashion output, including womenswear, menswear, accessories and eyewear. He will also “guide the creative vision for the overall brand”, the company’s statement added. The first full view of his interpretation of the codes established and refined by Ford will be revealed in Paris next March at a runway show during the AW25 edition of Paris Fashion Week.

One person already requesting his ticket for that show is Tom Ford himself, who greeted today’s news warmly. He said: “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work. I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colourist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all, he is modern. We share many of the same historical references, and I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand. I suspect that I will be the first on my feet to applaud after his show in March.”

Following Ford’s graceful exit, the brand was initially helmed by Peter Hawkings — a company veteran who had worked under the founder for nearly 25 years. He exited suddenly this past July.

In Ackermann, the brand has pivoted to a designer who is deeply au fait with fashion’s limelight. A seasoned creative leader, he operated his eponymous label for nearly two decades until 2020. Karl Lagerfeld famously once nominated Ackermann as a possible future candidate to replace him at Chanel. That didn’t happen — or at least it hasn’t yet — although Ackermann was appointed by Antoine Arnault to a critically acclaimed stint at the helm of the LVMH-owned masculine maison Berluti.

So what will Ackermann, as an established star designer in his own right, bring to Tom Ford? The merging of his design with the codes of its founder represents an intriguing fashion prospect: both designers have respectively developed their own aesthetic dialects that, while highly distinct, also overlap in their blending of profound sensuality with strict rigor. Furthermore, Ackermann’s chief profession has always been womenswear, a category which the brand’s fashion licensee, Ermenegildo Zegna Group, is especially keen to grow. Another Ackermann attribute that overlaps with Ford is their adjacency to Hollywood — the designer is especially close to Tilda Swinton and Timothée Chalamet.

In April 2023, the sale of the Tom Ford brand was completed in a deal that saw its existing partners in beauty, eyewear and ready-to-wear assume control. Tom Ford International, the company formerly responsible for the Tom Ford fashion business, was fully acquired by the Milan-based Ermenegildo Zegna Group. The acquisition was part of a joint operation led by ELC, Tom Ford’s existing beauty partner, and Marcolin, its eyewear partner.

In a statement shared with Vogue Business, Ermenegildo ‘Gildo’ Zegna, chairman and CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna Group, said: “The Tom Ford fashion business has long had tremendous growth potential. The appointment of Haider as the brand’s new creative director will further strengthen the team we are building and makes me even more confident in the future of Tom Ford Fashion.” It is understood that Zegna’s prime ambition for Tom Ford ready-to-wear is to expand its womenswear sales, which, in 2023, accounted for 30 percent of Tom Ford Fashion revenues.

Ackermann appears powerfully qualified both to navigate and drive that growth. His own much-lamented eponymous line came to a sudden and surprising halt in 2020. Since then, the designer — who, as a child, lived with his family in countries including Ethiopia, Chad, Algeria and The Netherlands — has been in a second phase of creative wandering. Recent employment has included roles at Maison Ullens, Fila and Canada Goose, as well as a deservedly lauded cameo season at Jean Paul Gaultier couture.

Now from Paris, Ackermann will enjoy a newly stable environment in which to develop his aesthetic around the foundations established by Tom Ford. Reflecting the structure of the brand, he will report to both Guillaume Jesel, president and CEO of Tom Ford and luxury business development at ELC, as well as Lelio Gavazza, CEO of Tom Ford Fashion at Ermenegildo Zegna Group.

Today, Jesel hailed Ackermann as “one of the world’s most visionary and inspiring talents in fashion”, adding: “He draws on his deep affinity for global culture and the arts to create arresting fashion and memorable emotional connections.” Gavazza added of Ackermann: “His renowned experience in luxury will be instrumental in driving the fashion business forward during its next important phase of expansion.”

Vogue

It seems like Tom Ford is a fan of this appointment:

One person already requesting his ticket for that show is Tom Ford himself, who greeted today’s news warmly. He said: “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work. I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colourist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all, he is modern. We share many of the same historical references, and I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand. I suspect that I will be the first on my feet to applaud after his show in March.”

 

[brandon J pierre]

I'm just happy someone with real talent got a job 🫠☺️. And Karl loved him so there's that. I do hope to see something fresh and light and some real sex.

 

[PDFSD]

I feel like he will fit right in! Can't wait to see his version of TF

Photos style /showstudio/fashionbombdaily

View attachment 1303378 View attachment 1303379 View attachment 1303380

that's the thing: what are the suits!!!! the knit wear!!!! the shirts the bags the shoes the belts the story!!!!! where is she going to who is she !! it can't be just cut fabric and silhouette and Tilda Swinton......... TF brand is also part of culture pop culture but still it should say more than a hot red carpet dress ...plunging necklines and high slits are all low hanging fruit ..building a brand next chapter is another beast to tackle.........

 

[PDFSD]

I'm just happy someone with real talent got a job 🫠☺️. And Karl loved him so there's that. I do hope to see something fresh and light and some real sex.

Karl loved also Jeremy Scott .....

 

[blueorchid]

Yeah, get what you mean, but it’s not intellectual pretentiousness. There’s a lightness to him. He is an egocentric and a narcissist, but I don’t think pretentious is the right word for Tom.

He's not intellectually pretentious, no, but I think he's still pretentious. I've never felt a sense of lightness from Tom Ford. I've felt the opposite actually, heavy pretentiousness that sucks the air out of the room.

(I don't hate, or even dislike, Tom Ford don't get me wrong!)

 

[Lola701]

that's the thing: what are the suits!!!! the knit wear!!!! the shirts the bags the shoes the belts the story!!!!! where is she going to who is she !! it can't be just cut fabric and silhouette and Tilda Swinton......... TF brand is also part of culture pop culture but still it should say more than a hot red carpet dress ...plunging necklines and high slits are all low hanging fruit ..building a brand next chapter is another beast to tackle.........

He did suits at Berluti…
He did tailleurs at Gaultier.

The goal for a designer who is talented is also to challenge himself at some point. I know we are used to the Hedi mode of operation of replicating everything everywhere but here, we have the opportunity to be surprised.

I don’t think Haider is a revolutionary, more of a disruptor maybe at Tom Ford.

 

[LadyJunon]

BoF’s article add nothing of value, but there's a funny typo:

Tom Ford Names Haider Ackermann As Creative Director
The Colombian-born designer is known for his precise, sensual aesthetic.

By Robert Williams
September 4, 2024

Colombian-born, Paris-based designer Haider Ackermann has been named creative director of Tom Ford, effective immediately.

A critically-acclaimed fashion talent, Ackermann's recent outings involve collaborations with Jean-Paul Gaultier, for whom he designed the French brand's spring-summer 2023 haute couture collection, and Canada Goose, where he was named the outerwear maker's first-ever creative director in May. Prior to that, Ackermann helmed his namesake fashion label (which closed in 2020) as well as a stint serving as creative director of LVMH’s Berluti.

Ackermann succeeds Peter Hawkings, the long-time design deputy of Tom Ford’s founder and namesake. Copping exited the brand in July after two seasons in the top job.

Ackermann joins Tom Ford, which is owned by Estée Lauder and has licensed its fashion business to Zegna, with its founder’s blessing. “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work,” Ford said in a statement. “He is an incredible colorist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all he is modern.”

BoF

 

[philophile]

Very happy about these news and I think that Haider is a good fit for TF, as both designed for a femme fatale. However, I still really do believe Haider and Givenchy are match made in heaven. Imagine the couture he would have created for the brand.