Haider Ackermann Mens S/S 2014 Paris

[Phuel]

I could see this in Dancing with the Stars, on a tv host of an Italian Sunday program, on a Russian dealer when meeting up the bosses, on a 54 year-old gambling in Atlantic City. Usually for me, I want to hear the Romeo Gigli man, guys dressed like this often make me wish I was deaf.

I do think the tucking is something worth noting, a bit overplayed but if it wasn't for it..

This is true. But then again, you can apply that conclusion to any designer really... It is all about context. Just like there are legions of girls in Japan who go for the deconstructed CdG/Yohji/MMM style, but they're all such mindless drones and fashion caricatures that if you knew them, you might just despise those designers a little, just by association.

Pyslocke: I wouldn't want to go out with a guy who dresses like this either! As a matter of fact, I'd never go out with someone who dresses like they walked off a runway. I understand what you're saying, and why you may be turned off by this, but the femininity Haider's proposed here is one that already exists in Eastern cultures-- he's only assimilated that tradition/style/aesthetic with that of high fashion, and I think he's done it very beautifully... unlike Rick Owen's menswear, who's edge seems more contrived and forced. I find Haider's very effortless, organic and authentic; that it comes from a genuine evolution of his style, rather than just to push fashion forward for the sake of it. And I think more importantly, these pieces have so much potential to mingle and infuse into a men's wardrobe without losing his own style. That's something I find special.

(BTW, Haider first offering for men were mostly smoking jackets and pajama bottoms more ideal for Hugh Hefner than most men. Didn't dig that at all. So, to he structure finally, is nice.)

Thanks marcBarna for the HQ!

 

[GERGIN]

How much more dynamic can Haider be with menswear? Like I'm shocked at how many people seem unconvinced about this, I really am happy he didn't do anything totally different from the womenswear to be honest...

 

[Nymphaea]

I find it utterly boring because it looks exactly like his womenswear. I don't see anything new here, it's so expected. I'm not feeling this at all

Yes, I totally agree. Nothing new, just the same, a pity.

 

[Psylocke]

...I find Haider's very effortless, organic and authentic; that it comes from a genuine evolution of his style, rather than just to push fashion forward for the sake of it....

I do agree with this part entirely! And I also agree about the menswear collection he showed at Pitti.
I guess I just find it surprising that all I see in this is a male version of the Haider women, but not the 'Haider man'. But that's not to say he can't take it from here and create something more evolved and unique in coming seasons. I'd definitely like to see him give the menswear a bit more of an edge, something that separates it from the womenswear while still being cohesive with his vision.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Oh yeah, I agree with you there. I think Haider is designing essentially for himself-- and perhaps it's because of this, that the edge is lacking for some. His womenswear is also very much "Haider", but because it's womenswear that's been given Haider's own sense of style-- which is masculine, it comes off much more dynamic. So for him to lend his sense of style to his menswear, there isn't that dynamic. The great thing about being your own muse, is that you will evolve and change in time-- and so will his menswear collections.

And, I do always appreciate a collection that doesn't rely on gimmicks and pomp to carry it.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Well this is exactly what I expected and nothing more. Some of it is quite delicious, but it's not nothing we haven't seen before.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The cutting seems as horridly amateurish as his womenswear... only that it shows even more so, once translated in a menswear context. All those boxy, bunched up sleeves, the styling with the scarves etc. try to take away from that but it nonetheless shows how poorly designed the pieces are as separates - Especially the tailoring. And yes, this not only echoes the women's collection, but actually does look like men's clothing, made in a women's pattern making and manufacturing facon... It isn't the fabrics that make this appear somewhat effeminate.

It works as a look, but if I wanted to pay luxury prices, I would much, MUCH rather buy into Stefano Pilati's Zegna or even the Z Zegna collection and could wear it similarily to how Haider chose to style it here... knowing that I'd have by far more refined detailing and finishing than this.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

How much more dynamic can Haider be with menswear? Like I'm shocked at how many people seem unconvinced about this, I really am happy he didn't do anything totally different from the womenswear to be honest...

Yeah, I don't know what people were expecting. Glad to see he's restarted his men's line. This looks great. It's very specific, it's very HIM, so not sure how big the market is for these clothes but hopefully he'll create one.

 

[5 8 6]

I'm so happy that he's designing for men again! While these clothes are not something I would wear, I have to admit that they are incredible and the craftmanship of every piece is spectacular. I also like the idea of continuity in his work: this collection could be easily worn by a woman (someone mentioned Tilda Swinton) and this, for me, is a sign of how clear and established his vision is.

 

[Scott]

phuel,i think that's how i feel as well. what i love about this and comparing the two collections....there's no definition of an overt sex aesthetically but just haider himself. ann demeulemeester was quite well known for that sense of duality back when she was designing and showing both collections together and helmut lang merged the two collections together rather wonderfully as well. everything just flowed.

now,am i saying this will work as a total look? of course not but then i am usually not prone to thinking that anyway when i look at collections. granted the shape of those trousers probably wouldn't work well on me but i do love those jackets and coats and just overall elegance of the nonchalant layering....

 

[disco54]

This has a strong Oriental vibe, some of it reminded me of an Indian wedding I went to a year back, with the dhoti pants and the draping but here it is all distilled in a very Parisian way. His clothes are just sumptuous eye candy.

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

This could literally pass for his womenswear, especially S/S 2012. Nonetheless, I think it's beautiful and breath a fresh air for menswear. I always love his draping and use of fabrics. That look on Cole Mohr with that wrap top is divine, imo.

 

[Desi]

Thank you Based Ackermann

 

[Bidwell]

Young men with tattoos certainly make most things look good. The shapes and general aesthetic is his own. What is wrong with that? That is EXACTLY what he should be doing... I do admit the fabrics are too luscious for most men's tastes and would be more accessible in some rough and tumble textiles. Perhaps it will evolve.

 

[Izreal]

pretty surprised to read so many comments calling this a "rehash" of his womenswear... it's called consistency imo.. i mean sure some of the styling is very similar but there is a definite masculinity here with the flight jackets, leather bombers, dinner jackets etc.. i think haider has a very strong identity, this is exactly what i expect from him.. not a surprise but it's not always necessary to reinvent the wheel.. anyways love his super future bohemian dandyism although lanvin may have executed it better couple seasons ago..

 

[vetements]

I think he designed simply with the thought that if a guy who lusted over haider's women's collections, what would he have liked?
Whilst I still prefer his women's collection, I also think this translates coherently here. Not sure if its gonna sell well though.

 

[Phuel]

phuel,i think that's how i feel as well. what i love about this and comparing the two collections....there's no definition of an overt sex aesthetically but just haider himself. ann demeulemeester was quite well known for that sense of duality back when she was designing and showing both collections together and helmut lang merged the two collections together rather wonderfully as well. everything just flowed.

now,am i saying this will work as a total look? of course not but then i am usually not prone to thinking that anyway when i look at collections. granted the shape of those trousers probably wouldn't work well on me but i do love those jackets and coats and just overall elegance of the nonchalant layering....

Yeah, exactly Scott: I think it's a very sincere and genuine style of dressing that just seem to be androgynous to some, but completely instinctive dressing to others: There are touches here and there that may seem feminine, but I think that's only because his womenswear came first, so we instantly identify certain components of his menswear as "feminine"; the voluminous drape of the tuxedo vest for example. But as a silhouette, it's more of a mix of cultures (mainly North African, East Asian, Italian...) without ever looking costume-y and just for the sake of the presentation; It's not Karl, whose idea of India is to have his models all wear turbans-- so it's all styling and once the clothes are in the shops, it's just typical Chanel. Every piece Haider's presented here is a component of his overall silhouette, but is also meant to be worn on its own. It would have been very predictable--and even appropriate, had he included sarongs, kaftans worn under jackets, or billowy shorts to resemble skirts to further drive his ethnic sensibilities-- but he doesn't, because he probably doesn't wear those pieces himself. I find that so... very honest. I really appreciate that so much in a designer.

Fashion is a tad desperate these days with some designers trying too hard, too contrived and too forced all in the name of... going against the tide. There's no evolution-- just these empty reactions that will be abandoned come their next collection.

I too miss the days when Helmut, Ann, and Gaultier was the first to do it-- sending men alongside women down the runway, dressed similarly. I loved the visuals of a duo, a group together, a posse walking one behind the other, and models with individual character (which I see here with Haider's cast). I hope to see him send both men and women down the runway in the future. Judging by this collection, it would be a shame for him not to do it.

 

[lelaid]

I want it all. It all looks so luxurious and elegant. Would I wear a look head to toe? No. But I would love to have any of these pieces to mix in with my current wardrobe. My love of Haider just keeps on growing.

 

[Moofins]

I actually think it's quite sumptuous - those rich jewel tones are gorgeous, I feel like I've had a glass of wine just looking at it. While some of the fabrics look sort of heavy (especially for spring/summer), I can't help but drool over this.