Hedi Slimane leaves Dior Homme

[tricotineacetat]

Let´s not forget that Hedi had always been regarded somewhat as a protégé of Monsieur Saint Laurent himself, the fact that he attended his debut collection (and not Tom Ford´s at YSL) showed off pretty well that he is a big time supporter of Hedi´s. Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent´s partner is ALWAYS present at the défilées, as are some of Saint Laurent´s original fellows, Loulou la Falaise and also Betty Catroux. On the contrary, Hedi had been one of the few that were invited to attend the opening of the YSL Smoking exhibit - correct me if I´m wrong but was Pilati there after all?

I´m not trying to say that either one of them is wrong at YSL, but I don´t think Hedi Slimane wouldn´t do a good job there. I agree, it would be a COMPLETELY different one than what Pilati is doing - surely embracing the tuxedo more so rather than pretty dresses and tulip skirts, but it would still be VERY Yves Saint Laurent. As far as the "rock" influences would be concerned, I think with Hedi it´s a different relationship between YSL and Dior - one being his former employée and master (whom he is quite loyal to), the other being just a shadow of a long forgotten past that is lost entirely in the web of a big luxury conglomerate - Actually, only very few of the codes that Christian Dior invented back in the 50ies are regarded as groundbreaking in fashion history - others, like Madame Grès, Vionnet, Coco Chanel, Christobal Balenciaga and also Yves Saint Laurent were by far more groundbreaking in the early Parisian couture scene.

 

[Fade to Black]

Personally, I'd LOVE to see Hedi go back to YSL.

 

[Morningstar]

Let us not forget that Monsieur Saint Laurent is the protégé of Dior. It's interesting to consider the legacy of fashion. I wonder does Hedi ever consider himself the heir to this history of Parisian couture?

 

[Zoolander]

Mr. Slimane is HOT.

 

[rach2jlc]

I might possibly see some merit in this rumor if it were for a house that was currently struggling with its identity or that had never had a ready to wear collection before, but Pilati is doing a wonderful job and I think that most everybody is satisfied with what he is doing. So, this rumor not only sounds sort of ridiculous, but would be such a waste if indeed it were true. It would be taking away one good designer to stick in another who might have a slightly more recognizable name.

John

 

[AlexN]

Let us not forget that Monsieur Saint Laurent is the protégé of Dior. It's interesting to consider the legacy of fashion. I wonder does Hedi ever consider himself the heir to this history of Parisian couture?

Maybe if he did think about it, he'd stop being so lazy with his collections and make a solid return to a higher standard.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Honestly I don´t understand what was lazy about this new F/W collection, I thought it was pretty well done, not too obviously referenced and one of the first in seasons that looked worthy being described as borderline couture.

So, to what standards should he return to? lacquering jeans and suits? Embellishing blousons with a bouquet of braided epaulettes, patch pockets and zippers? I understand that all the collections in between F/W 2004 and this new one had been somewhat predictable, but I also don´t see ANYTHING couture in collections like Luster, it´s definitely not in the decorative aspect of the so-called Napoleon, or any other showpiece. The new collection however, provides a hand full of items with sophisticated handfinishing - the peplum jacket that roughly resembles the original "New Look" jacket hat Mr. Dior designed back in the 50ies, the hand-smocked backs of an evening jacket and gilet, as well as the sleeves of a satin morning coat.

But yes, I agree that there is no need for YSL to throw out Stefano Pilati, that had been able to create a new and well-received identity for YSL in just some few seasons.

 

[AlexN]

Eh...I was just being dumb. I acknowledge that the new collection is a big step out of crap, but it's just not the jump ahead I'm hoping for. Actually, I guess that's the thing...it seems to me like more of a jump back instead of forward, and that kills my enthusiasm a little. I know a lot of people yearn for "the good old days" of DH. I yearn for new and different DH but with the detail and care of old collections. Think of the huge jumps that happened between early collections, then look at the present movement. It's pretty stagnant in comparison, in my opinion.

 

[seeing_double]

^
I have to disagree on the accusation of the current collections being stagnant in comparison. Yes, they may not have been as much of a change as I, and many others, would have liked to see, but there was indeed change. From SS 05 to FW 05, I for one saw a HUGE change. Unfortunately the quality changed as well, but thats another story. And then to SS 06, there was still the rockstar vibe...but it seemed no less of a change then strip and luster. And then this current collection, Hedi went in a completely different direction...and really made it work IMHO.

I am constantly hearing people on the DH thread say that they wish Hedi would go back to creating collections as he did in the past, and I may have said it myself...but that would be plain boring. Part of what made those collections special was that they were one season masterpieces. There was nothing else like them...and I for one hope Hedi keeps finding new ideas and inspiration, and turning out fresh and innovative collections... even if it takes a few seasons of crap to get there.

 

[AlexN]

Yeah, you're right. I'm not thinking very straight...it's 10:30 a.m. and I haven't slept yet. Anyhow, I think we're in agreement.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I get where you are coming from, Alex. I am partially with you that certain branches of the Dior Homme collection are not as carefully produced as they were several years back - yet at the same time, I am not sure if I want more clothes with buzy detailing as in some years back - While there were some rather brilliant pieces for example in Luster, that particular napoleon had never been one of them to me - It´s just the overkill of zippers, epaulettes, gold braiding, etc. that made it too much for me - there are by far more pieces that I thought were worth mentioning that were less loud as this one, it actually makes me shiver when I hear people describing that particular jacket as couture, it´s so not for me!

 

[fashionken]

I really don't see why some of you think Slimane is so perfect for YSL Rive Gauche. The label is traditionally a formal style for the man of the world with all its decadence and luxury. Christian Dior used to be the same but Slimane changed it and made it into the modern youth luxury it is today, a unique style from a unique house we know as Dior Homme, not Christian Dior.

It's taken Slimane several years to successfully transform Christian Dior into Dior Homme, and you can't just put him back into the YSL Rive Gauche house, which is now another unique label run by a totally different kind of designer, Stefano Pilati. It would be the same as replacing Slimane with John Galliano for Dior Homme.

Additionally, I seriously doubt that LVHM and Gucci Group would achieve any success by moving Slimane to YSL Rive Gauche, as Dior Homme has such a huge dedicated fan host. Personally, I would feel it was wrong for me - as one of these dedicated fans - to buy a Dior Homme-looking shirt with a YSL Rive Gauche tag in the back of the neck.

Although I admire Stefano Pilati's designs for YSL Rive Gauche, I'm a Dior-boy and not a YSL-man.

 

[seeing_double]

Where was I in the years it was taking to transform CD to DH...

to....

...in just one season




pics from firstview.com


...and I for one wouldn't car if the clothing had no label in it. I definitely am not paying that much for a silver tag.

 

[Morningstar]

On a side note, apparently Firstview has added back the Dior Homme pics to their server. Better take the time to save them incase they're gone for good soon.

 

[fashionken]

When I go to the Firstview site, I only get a/w05 and a/w06?

 

[fashionken]

Where was I in the years it was taking to transform CD to DH...


to....


...in just one season


pics from firstview.com


...and I for one wouldn't car if the clothing had no label in it. I definitely am not paying that much for a silver tag.

Even though the initial change was immediate, it's still taken Slimane years to build the Dior Homme house and all that comes with it.

 

[AlexN]

Yes, it seems that the company really solidified into Dior Homme around VOTC and S/S 05. Just thinking of the belts I have...my Strip belt is labeled "Christian Dior Paris," my VOTC belt is labeled, "Dior Homme Paris," and my S/S 05 and F/W 05 belts are simply labeled "Dior Homme." Seems like a very gradual evolution to me. Personally, I prefer "Christian Dior Paris" to "Dior Homme."

 

[dior_couture1245]

I really hope not...
I'd be devestated if Pilati had to leave YSL. What he does at YSL is...heaven...

 

[brian]

Personally, I prefer "Christian Dior Paris" to "Dior Homme."

you and i both.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I get where you are coming from, Alex. I am partially with you that certain branches of the Dior Homme collection are not as carefully produced as they were several years back - yet at the same time, I am not sure if I want more clothes with buzy detailing as in some years back - While there were some rather brilliant pieces for example in Luster, that particular napoleon had never been one of them to me - It´s just the overkill of zippers, epaulettes, gold braiding, etc. that made it too much for me - there are by far more pieces that I thought were worth mentioning that were less loud as this one, it actually makes me shiver when I hear people describing that particular jacket as couture, it´s so not for me!

Seriously, look online and you will find a lot of pieces from those years on sale and you will quickly see why they never sold. They were great collections but some of the pieces....no thanks.

Follow Me and VOTC are my all time favorite collections from any labels, especially DH if you want to know where I stand.