Is there anything for grown-up women to wear this season?
By LIZ JONES
Last updated at 10:49 18 June 2007
Vogue and Woman's Hour might be celebrating the older woman, but the fashion industry thinks the over-40s should be dressing like teens. What's a grown-up style guru to do? Before we all start debating the thorny issue of zero size models again (the government sponsored Model Health Inquiry?s interim report is due to be published in July), the hot topic in the world of fashion is age.
Earlier this month, Vogue published its first ever (as far as I could tell, but I looked back only as far as October 1975) 'age' issue, featuring on its cover a model in her 40s, Yasmin Le Bon, and another in her 50s, Marie Helvin.
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Life begins at 40 (left to right
Marie Helvin, Yasmin Le Bon, and Madonna
Then Emma Soames, the editor of Saga magazine, got involved in a hot debate on Radio 4's Woman's Hour with Gok Wan, the flamboyant stylist who presents Channel 4's How To Look Good Naked.
He was trying to persuade poor old Emma that, at the grand old age of 57, she could still carry off a mini skirt and racer back vest top.
But then it all got a bit schizophrenic at the end of last week when Madonna, who is 48, was criticised for indulging in too much Ashtanga yoga, which had made her face cave in (too much exercise releases too many harmful free radicals, don't you know).
Ooh and then, in a London evening paper, my former husband added two years to my age ? which is a bit of a cheek really, as he knows this is one area of my life I am particularly touchy about and there are certain statistics pertaining to him that, should I choose to reveal them, would certainly cramp his style in the dating department.
But I digress. It seems women can't win. The fashion industry tells us, over and over again, that we must have the skin, dress sense and body of a 16-year-old, but then if we strive to do what we have been told, we are criticised for trying.
Older women (and by older I mean 40-plus) are always being encouraged to buy their clothes in Topshop, but when we get there we find the only ones that will fit us would, if we only looked a little younger, make us look pregnant.
The cult for the very childlike that has permeated fashion, from the top to the bottom, for the past few decades is, I think, incredibly dangerous.
Rather than being able to relax a bit as we get older, ignore the more outrageous style stunts pulled by fashion and develop our own look, dressing elegantly and impeccably, our tastes and opinion of ourselves has been skewed, probably irreversibly.
But it's most interesting to point out that the fashion industry was not always so obsessed with trying hard to make us all look like very young, feeble girls.
On Thursday night, I went to a lecture given by a former Dior model to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the New Look ? the small-waisted, bighipped, big-skirted, soft-shouldered style silhouette that revolutionised fashion after the war.
As a mannequin for Monsieur Dior, this model wasn't much over 5ft 5in (today, all the girls are 6ft), and was 20 or 21 when she started out, while today any girl who wants to make it on the catwalk is barely out of nappies.
Christian Dior, surely the most talented designer of them all, not only didn't put a sufficiently high mark-up on his designs to be able to afford to give fancy dress parties aboard an outrageous yacht (in 1953, his margin was 10 per cent; if a garment cost $360, he once remarked, he made only $30), he didn't believe that women came in just one standard size.
He employed petite models, statuesque models and, hurrah, many of his most revered, favoured and elegant models were well over 50. He insisted that women should never dye their hair, and in his couture collections there was always a model with a silvery coiffure.
Perhaps Madonna, perhaps all of us not in the first flush of youth, should stop scrabbling to be something we are not. It is not a question of ?letting go? or not bothering.
It is a matter of being proud of our real age, of allowing ourselves, finally, to grow up.
We should not have to apologise for who we are, or for the fact we are not quite dead yet.