Jason Wu F/W 12.13 New York

[christian zh]

-from style.com

 

[masquerade]

I love this. It is definitely a collection for a strong woman. I love it

 

[christian zh]

-style.com

 

[christian zh]

-style.com

 

[christian zh]

-style.com

 

[christian zh]

-style.com

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

It's the best I've seen from him yet but that's not saying much.

There's just something not quite right about his eye. His work is overwrought.

 

[TianCouture]

The styling is all just too much. It feels so forced and heavy. I don't like it. Some of it is okay, but it feels somewhat confusing. And as much as I don't like this, I just DO NOT see the Burberry thing AT ALL!!!

 

[TianSoFine]

It's an incredibly epic collection to me, and definitely very Chinese. The Western influences are obviously there since he's an American designer, but the Chinese influences he uses are more convincing than any other designer who has attempted it so far and it's the best in terms of capturing the essence and spirit of historical Chinese costume as well.

That being said, I wish designers would look beyond Qing dynasty and Mao. What about Han, Tang, and Song dynasties, the cultural peaks in Chinese history? Yes, they might be too dramatic and lavish, but so much of modern fashion like that anyway (I'm thinking Galliano in particular).

I do like this collection, though. Most of the referencing was done through the details, which I love, like the gold embroidery, tight collars, curve-hugging silhouettes like early Shanghai styles, etc.

 

[Spike413]

I've been coming back to this collection since pictures first popped up earlier today and at this point I'm convinced that I'm willing myself to like it more than I actually do because it references things that I genuinely like. But the more I look at it, the more the flaws become apparent. Compared to his other work, which doesn't thrill me beyond belief but, unlike many of his contemporaries in NY, I find has an actual point of view, this just seems over processed and overly theme-y. The results end up looking a little cheap, which I can say from working with his clothes in the past, isn't usually the case.

Oddly considering his aim to look at Chinese design as someone who is Chinese produced some ultimately unmemorable and superficial results. Yes, they reference the source material less literally than, say, Saint Laurent's Opium collection or Tom Ford's subsequent Opium-inspired collection for YSL, but these clothes are also far less powerful to look at. Nothing really makes me look twice. They kind of go there with the Chinese references, but then they hold back, which makes them seem a little downmarket as a result. They're the watered-down, bridge-line, appears-in-stores-a-year-later version of those more memorable clothes.

 

[Lovegood]

HQs.


Credit to Vogue Italia; vogue.it.

 

[Lovegood]

Credit to Vogue Italia; vogue.it.

 

[Lovegood]

Credit to Vogue Italia; vogue.it.

 

[RedandNavy]

I like it! I like Jason Wu for the elegance and sophistication in his collections.

While I wouldn't say he borrows from European designer I still think that his style isn't "typical NYFW". It's more elegant and in a way also stiffer than most things I see in NY.

I very much like the silhouettes in this collection but I'm not really in love with the color scheme. I'm just not really a fan of burgundy. I also agree the dresses are not as good as some of the combinations with jackets / skirts / pants.

 

[Vladita]

As expected, some of the comments are biased against NY designers.
Burberry inspired?! Gimme a break.

On the other hand, I find this collection too tight and forced to fit the season. Overall, okay but not impressive.

 

[Zazie]

If cultural cliches are the only way through which "Chinese" designs are interpreted I'd rather these mediocre fashion people simply NOT go there. The result is cheap, tacky and kitschy, and Wu doesn't even have good tailoring skills to redeem this horrid collection. Having seen some emerging talents from China itself, eg. Uma Wang, Wu Yong, Decoster, etc., I'd say their much more subtle and conceptual approach delivers a powerful Chinese sensibility in a more refined manner than these literal "dragons and pagodas" references.

 

[Lovegood]

Here is the full show on YouTube.

 

[RedandNavy]

Actually the more I look at it the less I like it. While I thought it elegant and sophisticated at first, it becomes heavy and stiff after looking at it more. I still like the grey/black looks but the stiffness of the fabric combined with the harshness of the red/black color combination is too much for me.

I wouldn't say it's bad but I'd say I'm waiting for NYFW to heat up.

 

[christian zh]

Thanks for HQ's

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

Am I the only one a bit disappointed with this?
I know Wu's aesthetic is all about ladylike dressing and we're always criticizing him to venture out and do something somewhat radical and different than his usual offerings, but I'm just not feeling this at all. It doesn't seem very Wu for me. Idk, but I'm getting the impression that it's trying to be edgy for the sake of being edgy. The process of how he got inspired and how the collection resulted just doesn't feel organic to me.
Nonetheless, there are some gorgeous clutches I saw in this thread earlier.