Jason Wu F/W 12.13 New York

[Niusity]

I love this collection! Really stunning!

 

[Lovegood]

Dazed Digital: Let's talk about what you've been looking at to prepare for this collection.
Jason Wu: I've been looking at the three different iterations of Chinese, to reference three major archetypes of Chinese interpretation. One was the Mao jacket: military, super strong, an extension of Warrior with military green. Another was the King Dynasty, with the beautiful Chinese brocades, Emperors and Empresses and the furs. The last iteration was a 40's Hollywood version of Chinese: 'Shanghai Express', Anna Mae Wong, Marlene Dietrich; the very fantastical side of things. They all get interwoven together into one collection that I sort of call Urban Warrior Woman. It's a much stronger character than I've ever done before.

DD: In what way?
Jason Wu: There's a sense of elegant aggression in this collection that I guess is just what I feel right now, and there is definitely a masculine attitude, especially in the military uniform. Throughout the collection are a lot of strong shoulders and that's both reflecting the military aspect, with epaulettes, and also like the Dietrichesque, Schiaparelli-strong 1940's shoulders.

It seems like a big subject to tackle but it also seems like something I've been learning about since I was a little boy; it all came back. it became quite a personal collection. I travel to Asia a lot, but I hadn't been to Taiwan, where I grew up, for a really long time. Ever since I was a designer, actually, until I went last year. My dad took me to a King Dynasty warrior exhibit of all their costumes. Lots of studs, all these capes and capelets, armour studs and metal. Lots of strong shoulders and beautiful Chinese brogues.

DD: What do you think makes them so powerful?
Jason Wu: I think that the Empresses were always very powerful in Chinese history, and there's a sense of power when it comes to that kind of gear. We sometimes call clothes gear but in this case it's really about putting strong clothing on strong shoulders, which marks the aggressive side. You'll see a look that's like a 40's jacket gown: structured jacket mixed with a beautiful velvet drapey skirt. The idea of that mixing is where I found the 40's Marlene Dietrich reference very relevant and completely appropriate for this collection. If you think of a strong woman in Hollywood, think no further than Dietrich. She's the one; she's that quintessential character of a woman who defines Hollywood glamour.

DD: Who would you put in that category now?
Jason Wu: Tilda Swinton. Helen Mirren is one, I think Cate Blanchett is another.

DD: Do you come from a family of power dressers?
Jason Wu: I do, I'm just thinking now about my mom in the 80's with her shoulder pads. I think women look to powerful clothes when they want to feel a certain way and I think this collection is a manifestation of that.

Credit to Dazed & Confused Magazine; dazeddigital.com.

 

[purplethistle]

This is probably the first collection of his that I actually like, however, it ain't perfect. Some of the looks are spot on perfect and then other looks a bit awkward or contrived.

 

[clarissea]

I liked it, it was extremely well showed and while i was looking at the streaming, i really liked it. Now, i'm a little bit less sure of my first opinion, some textures look strange and some ensembles are bland :/ But still, i have a good impression at the end. I'd like to see it on the red carpet or in editorials.

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

I find the collection quite heavy on the eye whether material or the colour. The styling wasn't either the strongest point of the collection making the luxurious side of the clothes looking cheap and the elegant/evening wear/dresses looking kitschy.

 

[D A N A]

Beautiful!!!! I love the evening wear <3

 

[Wolkfolk]

I like this, I really do.
Definitely not my favourite collection of his, and far less impressive compared to his 2 previous collections. But he definitely knows how to creat modern and sophisticated garments. I love the very lady like outerwear, once again the embroideries are amazing. I like the use of fur, being very appeling without underwhelming the collection. Also like how coherent his presentations always look. The shows unfolds perfectly and each segment follows the previous logically. Finally his evening wear is always a treat.

 

[lelaid]

it's not my favorite of his. it seems very stale and almost matronly. kinda let down...

 

[Tacita]

My favorite collection from this season yet.
There were some too heavy pieces, but in general it's stunning and I love the inspiration and the colors.-

 

[Lee MG Tisci]

 

[Donatello89]

dark colors...it reminds me Balmain a bit, even if it's more classy. i like it

 

[Chris_Couture05]

I was not impresses with the collection as a whole but there are some really beautiful peices

 

[Label Basher]

I'm not really feeling this. I usually love his collections. I'm sad.

 

[tworomy]

I like it however It's not his strongest collection.

 

[Bretonne]

The styling is quite awful.