Gaultier's Grecian couture frolic
By Suzy Menkes International Herald Tribune
The waters that divide haute couture and high style seem more muddied than ever as the spring/summer season closed on Wednesday. You could say that designers are paddling against the fashion current on the River Styx, just hoping to keep their ancient craft alive.
It also seems that couture is all Greek to the photographers, who were interested only in snapping Madonna making an hour-late entry at Jean Paul Gaultier's show. But the rock star's favorite costumier made a lively collection out of his Athenian theme.
With outfits named "Lesbos," "Aristotle" or "Sophocles," Gaultier showed how his couture skills have been honed. He sent out gracefully draped dresses, blouses with full pleated sleeves and even a new hybrid for the Aegean coast: his signature matelot sweater as a bouncy, horizontally striped chiffon top. The tailoring was equally streamlined, if familiar, and a backless tuxedo jacket was given the Greek touch with fine gilt chains.
Gaultier's ability to tell a new tale while keeping his own is admirable. The witty designer sent out in equal measure simple, elegant dresses and madcap pieces with beaded waists, bared belly buttons and even a leggy, folkloric outfit in cerulean blue.
It was the usual story of Gaultier wanting, understandably, to raise the pulse of his show - but falling back on the ready-to-wear principle that has served him so well: two parts classic to one part frolic. Think of witty Jackie Kennedy Onassis sunglasses, a gilded navel button and bosom covers made of stars, instead of the infamous Madonna cones. But there was also a delicious dusty pink dress tinged with gold or a shimmering cascade of mustard pleating. The result was a show that seemed more like a romp round the Mediterranean than a couture vision that had absorbed all Gaultier's Grecian inspirations.