Sander is sculptural; Fendi is apologetic about fur
Suzy Menkes IHT
Modern fashion has been lacking a firm silhouette, but Jil Sander knocked it back into shape on Thursday with a new flexible geometry. From the two-tone black and white shoes to dresses with arcs of seaming, the designer pushed forward - but only a little - with her vision of simplicity.
.
Her show on Thursday was one of the few for the Milan 2004 winter season to be cut out of cloth - instead of the leathers, knits and especially furs that are dominating the runways. "It is very feminine, but with a strong hand and beautiful textures," Sander said, referring to a coat where white mat canvas met shiny black, or the subtle mix of a dust-dry silver lurex sweater with a shiny silver pleated skirt.
.
Backstage, the designer demonstrated the feel of felt cashmere between the fingers and showed the ridges of piping in sculptured dresses. They came in Papal purple and fuchsia pink as a shot of color among the black and white tailored coats or one in quiet herringbone tweed that was so angled with seaming that it looked like it could stand up on its own. Sander, the keeper of the flame of realist fashion, also said that she wanted a collection of genuine clothes.
.
The show could have done with a jolt of surprise - or some way to comprehend the subtle detail of a brilliant white shirt cuff and how skirts with volume at the back were actually constructed. But Sander, who left her house for two years, before last season's comeback, is finding her fashion feet. And the fact that this season they included purple wedge-heeled shoes shows how open she is still experimenting.
.