Jil Sander Mens F/W 06.07 Milan

[happycanadian]

i HATE the way the jackets are cut --- i need a waist in my jackets. these are gross.

 

[softgrey]

rude boys...
according to wikipedia...

Rude boy, rudie, rudi or rudy is a subculture that developed in the early 1960s in Jamaica and has close ties to skinhead culture. The term rude boy came from Jamaican slang for "cool" or "hip," as the rude boys, in the dancehalls and daily life, always dressed in the latest fashions. The term rude boy may also have something to do with an extremely potent rum-based drink called "Rude to your parents," which was served at sound system parties. It may also be related to "rudeness," a term used in 1950s and 1960s Jamaica to refer to sexual intercourse.
The rude boy culture originated in the ghettos of Kingston coinciding with the popular rise of dance hall celebrations and sound system dances. Disaffected, unemployed urban youth often found temporary employment under sound system operators to crash competitor's dances. This violence became an integral part of rude boy lifestyle, and often gave rise to gangs. Many of these rudies started wearing sharp suits, thin ties, and pork-pie hats in an imitation of the styles in popular american gangster movies; a style which is still pervasive in today's ska culture. With growing emigration in the late 1960s, the rude boy culture and its music, ska/rocksteady, spread to England and from there to most other western countries. It has had considerable influence on early skinhead culture. The name Rudy often appears in ska/rocksteady and punk lyrics as an allusion to the rude boy subculture.Much of Desmond Dekker's most popular songs were about Rude boys; 007 (Shanty Town), Rude Boy Train, Warlock, and others all revolved around this subculture. Other famous Rude boy-related songs are "Rudie Can't Fail" by The Clash and "A Message To You Rudy" by The Specials (originally by Dandy Livingstone). In more contemporary ska culture, the terms "Rude boy" and "Rude girl" are used more generally to refer to anyone involved with ska, though Rudy generally retains the cautionary connotation described above.
Also, nowadays the term 'rudeboy' is most commonly used to describe a person who has interest in the musics drum 'n' bass, hip hop, breaks, reggae/ragga, garage or grime.

 

[nqth]

Thank you , softgrey:-)

 

[droogist]

I suspect Simons spent some time in the archives, because this is looking a lot like Jil's collections from her 90's heyday. Quite refreshing, really - to my eyes at least, it looks new (well, in the sense that it looks old... ). As others have noted, the skinny silhouette has long since reached its saturation point - I think it's time menswear moved on, and Raf just might be pointing the way. He does have a certain knack for it, after all...I'm not one to make predictions, but it really won't surprise me if a year from now the boys are mothballing their Dior Homme and springing for some boxy suit jackets instead.

 

[wire.artist]

i HATE the way the jackets are cut --- i need a waist in my jackets. these are gross.

This collection can be anything....but not gross

The more I look it, the more I like it >>>>>I can't wait to see the fabrics and details in the stores. By the way, we are talking a lot about less than 10 pics!!!! I like the way he has focused a lot of form in the collars, leaving the rest plain.

 

[cerfas]

I don't think much of it at all
I don't hate it
i don't love it
it looks like non-clothes
not at all memorable

 

[justinelm]

It's very simple, but nice. More pics are needed to get a feel of the *whole* thing.

 

[Ianastar]

I dont like this collection at all.

None of the pieces seem to fit the models very well. It looks like a bunch of little boys playing dress up in daddies suits.

I would have liked to see the line be more tailored and slim fitting. Cut to the model's bodies.....this is just frumpy and sad looking.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's appropriate. To me it is very Jil and Raf at the same time. I think Raf will be a good fit, I just wish he expanded his ideas more. I feel like the assistants did this and Raf just supervised. It's his first season, not bad but nothing to slap your mother over either.

The boxcut doesn't bother me so much, it's not for me. I could see a lot of rappers wearing this.

 

[*sayan]

raf did a smart job, feels like jil, like him(like yohji also but i feel thats a new direcion).I believe he s leading the way. he may be on to bringing jil sander to unknown heights. Jil has always been known for outstanding quality. With that kind of clear vision, it might just become a big fashion warrior.

 

[AshtonK]

The clothes are great--if you're a monk.

 

[marcj]

it's looks pretty bland and ill fitting... how anti-climactic.... ugh i cant wait for my miu miu...

 

[amchan]

I don't think much of it at all
I don't hate it
i don't love it
it looks like non-clothes
not at all memorable

i feel the same to u...but it's very Raf style...

 

[seeing_double]

More pictures are online at the following address:

http://www.modaonline.it/mmuai0607/jil_sander/


Quite disappointing, to be honest. I actually thought he would end up with something less "plain"... and by that, I don´t mean overtly embellished clothes (which are not really Jil Sander), but something more architectural. I have gone through the pictures several times and was desperately looking for a hint of design, but could only find some of Raf´s favourite (but ill-fitted) overcoats and puffy down jackets in there. None of the shapes are really distinct as in his mainline, neither oversized, nor sharp fitted. I hope his mainline collection will end up looking better than this...

I have to agree. Just...blah overall.

...And does anyone else think that the shape of the arm is off, or is it just me?

 

[metal-on-metal]

I think this is great. The fabrics are so interesting. Love the new shapes and the demise of the skinny suit. I think this is a good debut and hopefully will become a little more 'fashion' once Raf feels more at home.

 

[Bidwell]

I believe Raf was the pioneer of the skinny cut (before Hedi's existence) so I can see the branching out into those old man boxy shapes, however, if anyone else had done this other than the king of kool, they'd be torn to shreds. No interesting cuts, seaming, color, or at least new fabrications ( Sander's strength). I really looked forward to this but has left me feeling terribly dissapointed. I've heard of cleaning a slate but...
It could be a business decision to start from scratch, but those clothes look like very basic lang, klein, prada and yes, OLD Sander. What is the point? Wasn't his purpose to take it to the next level? Maybe he'll just leave that to his line (like Margiela/Hermes).
I simply expected him to extract some spirit of Sander's genius for detail and such rather than picking from the archive and stripping it of everything. Sorry.

 

[battles]

this isn't what i was expecting. i don't like them all, it's a major upset amid great anticipation. i shall not say more.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

the more I look at this collection the more I believe Raf is a perferct fit for Jil Sander.

 

[Lena]

Love the new shapes and the demise of the skinny suit. I think this is a good debut and hopefully will become a little more 'fashion' once Raf feels more at home.

agreed m-o-m.. skinny for boys has become a bit tiring..
mainly i loved his bombers & the hooded jacket..

it's a bit plain but i'm positive close up there will be more details
i also believe this will sell like hotcakes to a certain semi-conservative clientelle..

thanks for all the pics and the comments posted, very interesting views

 

[tott]

I like it. Sometimes the cuts feel too voluminous though, a bit stiffly square instead of naturally flowing...