Jil Sander Mens F/W 07.08 Milan

[visconti]

Here's the vogue.co.uk review. They also have a video up.

http://vogue.co.uk/Shows/Video/Default.aspx?showID=4263

"THE autumn/winter 2007-8 season of menswear shows kicked off in true style today, as Raf Simons presented his third collection for Jil Sander. With impeccable precision and purity, Simons vision for the house becomes more apparent season after season, and today's offering was noteworthy not just for his attention to detail (and believe me, the detailing is astonishing), but for the sheer confidence with which he constructs the collection. The emphasis has been on clothing, stripping down and re-defining the Sander aesthetic, no frills, no tricks and not one accessory. This season, however, Simons as understatedly as ever, introduced the bag. In fact there were three - deftly added into the equation as a source of light and modernity, in copper, French blue and sable coloured mirrored leather. Citing the graphic qualities of Antony Gormley's sculptures and the human silhouette as his major influences for the season, Simons traced the body's natural proportions, discreetly dissecting garments to push forward his statement of, 'The body as leitmotif.' Volumes were slim, whilst being masculine and elegant, and fabrics as ever were futuristically luxurious. Once again Simons solemnly constructs the perfect jacket, painstakingly cut into horizontal or vertical sections, and perfectly re-pieces them back together again in an almost surgical manner. Simons has the ability to simply take your breath away, poetically and with restraint. Everything is considered and re-addressed, and as a result he produces the quintessential wardrobe for the modern man. Pinstripes are boldly redefined, widely spaced to the point of near abstraction, or disappear completely as one single line of stitching takes their place. What was most striking was perhaps the fact that there was hardly any black - instead, the deepest hues of grey, blue, and chocolate gave the collection a super chic attitude that was highlighted by metallic knits and incredible metallic hardware as decoration on the most sublime leather and shearling. This absence of black added to the sense of luxury and gave the collection a sense of modern opulence. Raincoats that merged into flight jackets in technological silk nylon were one of the highlights of the show and added another classic to Simons' repertoire. What would every man love to have in his wardrobe you may ask? Judging from the perfected updated classics we saw today, I would definitely say everything! (January 14 2007, PM

Antonio Berardi"

After seeing it all, I'm thinking that I NEED the crewneck version of the first sweater that was posted, the green silk nylon coat (my friend was able to guess that was the fabric last night based on the tiny photo B) ), the check to pinstripe blazer and possibly that cardigan. I guess I should just forget about S/S.

 

[style_expert]

Suzy Menkes' review:
Raf Simons is making a fine job of recreating the Jil Sander label. There is something humble and unhurried about his approach, as he carefully builds an image for the house based on sharp lines with a soft touch. Out came coats in straight shapes, traced with a single graphic line and a pair of vertical pockets. Or the same linear stroke was drawn on a shirt. The effect of checks morphing into simple stripes was modernist, yet never soulless.

The futuristic music of Johann Johannsson of Iceland soared with the onset of iridescent shine. That meant an eerie, iridescent blue parka; a cardigan edged in silver; a sweater with metallic flecks; or a giant circular bag with the effect of tortoiseshell. Other tailored pieces were just examples of linear tailoring, as in a sharp-cut toggled duffel coat or a suit. Without either hinting at the past or embracing a space age future, the designer is re- making tailoring.

"For me, the future is romantic," Simons said. "Thinking what clothing might be and could be."

iht.com

 

[visconti]

Here's an interesting tidbit with regards to the addition of bags to the show. For the first two Raf seasons there was still some sort of bag deal with Prada. Now they're completely "free", so it makes sense that they'd want to renew their efforts and bring out some innovative product.

 

[Zazie]

I'm disappointed he didn't push the envelope more...very wearable, classic, beautifully cut, etc....zzzzz.....only coats I like are the duffle and the one with the slightly elasticised waist and the silver zip from the waist down in #76. His SS07 took much greater risks, maybe they didn't sell so well?

Prada seemed to have taken "Raf" to a different level, though with the exception of some "cool" looking pieces including the "ugly" patent shoes, not really successfully.

The reviews mentioned some details that sound intriguing, eg. a shot of silver metallic thread in the black, metalic knit collar hidden inside coats, so again, the clothes are perhaps designed for the closeup instead of the overt fashion statement. Still, disappointing.

 

[dizzytacks]

the shoulder has never looked better, bew me away!!!

 

[JJohnson]

That knit turtleneck looks like a key look...the jackets are amazing too..I like how he can take the same colors used before, lighten and darken them for a fresh effect and pallette

 

[4n98]

the white shirt is my must-have!

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I think designers like Raf Simons and Patrik Ervell are really picking up on a new silhoutte for men that's not reactionary to the skinny and lean look but rather building on it and taking it somewhere else. I'm slim guy and Dior Homme has long been the ideal but now I'm bored with trying to look like that. It's partly because I don't (I'm a bit on the tall ide with broad shoulders) and that I look silly trying. I do like a slim pant but also I don't mind roomier jackets. A bigger build is appealing. Lucas Ossendrijjver(sp?) at Lanvin Homme is also picking up on this I believe. I think they are really taking men's fashion forwrd. He's doing the same thing womenswear and that's been equally exciting if not more so.

 

[visconti]

If anyone's interested, here's an up close shot of the collection's coolest sweater.

(men.style)

(my photo)

As you can see, it's inky blue. It's probably too hard to see in my photo, but the blue lines across the chest etc. are actually raised, so it gives it that much more depth. I was totally set on the crewneck because I was afraid the higher neck would be itchy, but it's really not bad. I've been told that the crewneck is black and silver, but I think the blue is more interesting.

The coolest non-runway piece I've seen is a super thin black cashmere "ninja hoodie". It's really slim fitting, so you could easily wear it under a blazer, but the best part is the little hood. only your eyes will be visible! The material is thin enough that you can easily roll it down and hide it if you're not out in the frigid cold.

As far as other little details go, everything isn't in yet, but here are a couple of tidbits I hadn't noticed from the photos. On the suits with the seams across the chests and arms, there's also a seam right above the knee. When the ads come out, you'll be able to see it on one of the models. The puffy, sort of iridescent jackets have a removable hood. It's wrapped up in that area that snaps on. The cardigan is also a really dark navy wool. The metallic part is basically a strip that's sewn in. You can choose a couple of ways to button it up to make it more or less visible. They run a little large. I went all the way down to a 44 when I tried it on. Everything else seems fairly true to size.

 

[belletrist]

Thx Visconti!

Can you tell me what's the material of the classic thick turtlenecks? Is that cashmere?

 

[ilaughead]

Ninja hoodie? That is too wonderful of an idea!

 

[visconti]

Thx Visconti!

Can you tell me what's the material of the classic thick turtlenecks? Is that cashmere?

I didn't really look at those, but I think there are a variety of weights and blends. Some might be all cashmere, but they also do cashmere/silk blends. Also maybe a light cotton with a small percentage of cashmere. They're pushing the turtleneck, but there were also some other interesting necklines. One has a little tab sort of thing on the crew neck. There was another that was constructed so that the shoulders were very smooth. The seam was moved, but I can't remember where. Come to think of it, some of the non-runway colors are not that far removed from the brand new s/s palette- especially a reddish and blue. I'll have to take another look now that I have those new colors in my head.

EDIT- I almost forgot, my turtleneck is 45% wool, 45% acetate and 10% polyester.

 

[ilaughead]

You're like a regular encyclopedia!

 

[ETROsexualJ]

Get out there and get the grey jeans!

Also the best trousers for F/W will be the seamed at the thigh and calf ones from the ad campaign.