Since Raf left, every designer at JS insists on offering heavy silhouettes in heavy fabrics. Why is that? I think they really miss the mark there.
Sure, boxyness was part of Jil's silhouette, but it was never executed in such unflattering manner, and she always made sure to balance something oversized by showing some skin and the body's natural curves. Also, her collections always had delicate pieces, such as silk dresses that emphasized pleating, darts or her Vionnet-like artful cutting.
She once said: "There is only one answer to the pressure to sell in the fashion industry: Excellent quality, bearing a personal signature." Her signature was the quiet inventions in cutting and shapes and colours, and the extremely high quality in fabrics and workmanship did the rest of the talking. She didn't really need much styling or additions.
I don't think the current designers with their overtly styled, logoed and complicated offerings really live up to that.