Jil Sander Resort 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[THD96]

Wow they're going to milk every last drop of this Phoebe's Céline aesthetic, aren't they? This is just a straight-up rip-off of Céline Lookbook.

I like it and don't like it at the same time. There is the ease in silhouettes that I like, I prefer this over their boxy stiff silhouettes. But no to the rompers.

I hope when Phoebe comes back, they will look for a new inspiration somewhere else, like decades of archives from Jil herself, maybe?

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I genuinely like a lot of the womenswear even though it reeks of Celine.

This isn't my favorite though. It's starting to lean more and more into that generic minimalist "fashion" look (it only tiptoed around it before), like a high end Zara capsule or COS.

 

[tricotineacetat]

How their work can generate moderate praise among tFS members while Proenza Schouler are doing the same thing under constant criticism is a still beyond me, but anyway... I gave up on Jil Sander after Rodolpho Paglialunga's tenure, some of his collections showed promise that he had found his groove at the house - What these two are doing is a shameful copying of Philo-isms and has little to do with Jil Sander.

Considering this brand has, much like Helmut Lang, significant importance in modern fashion history and yet finding it in such bad state is rather frustrating, to say the least...

 

[Deleted member 167090]

Hate to say that Proenza is doing Philo's Celine better than these two!

 

[tricotineacetat]

At this point I can't wait for Phoebe Philo to return in hopes that all this pleasant, soft-around-the-edges skandi-minimalism that so many brands are doing today is somewhat dying off - Jil Sander's design used to have a more severe, inspired-from-menswear kind of flavor that put utility to the forefront and offered a welcome alternative to the feminity of other designers. It was great to see that the house would stay true to this aesthetic, even when the zeitgeist demanded for more womanly fashion - which it did even under Raf Simons and Rodolpho Paglialunga.

I don't think a change of design is up soon, but I think Petar Petrov would be a great successor at Jil Sander. His own line has had a great momentum in the past years and his sensibility is more on par with Jil Sander than these two.

 

[Overindulgence]

Going off the point above, this on-the-nose Philo aesthetic, while "timeless", almost feels too 2010s at this point. Even Lee's Bottega (during his time) moved beyond this 2015 art gallerist style.

 

[Lola701]

How their work can generate moderate praise among tFS members while Proenza Schouler are doing the same thing under constant criticism is a still beyond me, but anyway... I gave up on Jil Sander after Rodolpho Paglialunga's tenure, some of his collections showed promise that he had found his groove at the house - What these two are doing is a shameful copying of Philo-isms and has little to do with Jil Sander.

Considering this brand has, much like Helmut Lang, significant importance in modern fashion history and yet finding it in such bad state is rather frustrating, to say the least...

Maybe because in some ways, this is in line with the principles of the original aesthetic of the house whereas PS have jumped on every bandwagon during their career…

It’s always frustrating and even annoying to see someone being at an heritage brand, with archives and history, being inspired by nothing from the house. It’s like Raf doing Helmut Lang at Calvin Klein.
They have amazing archives + Jil has designed at least one collection in every decade since the creation of the brand…So it can be a tool to help them take the brand to the next level. The area we miss the Jil influence is definitely in the shapes and dressmaking.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

How their work can generate moderate praise among tFS members while Proenza Schouler are doing the same thing under constant criticism is a still beyond me, but anyway... I gave up on Jil Sander after Rodolpho Paglialunga's tenure, some of his collections showed promise that he had found his groove at the house - What these two are doing is a shameful copying of Philo-isms and has little to do with Jil Sander.

Considering this brand has, much like Helmut Lang, significant importance in modern fashion history and yet finding it in such bad state is rather frustrating, to say the least...

Fair.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Going off the point above, this on-the-nose Philo aesthetic, while "timeless", almost feels too 2010s at this point. Even Lee's Bottega (during his time) moved beyond this 2015 art gallerist style.

I think that's what's giving me the dowmarket COS/Zara vibe.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Maybe because in some ways, this is in line with the principles of the original aesthetic of the house whereas PS have jumped on every bandwagon during their career…

It’s always frustrating and even annoying to see someone being at an heritage brand, with archives and history, being inspired by nothing from the house. It’s like Raf doing Helmut Lang at Calvin Klein.
They have amazing archives + Jil has designed at least one collection in every decade since the creation of the brand…So it can be a tool to help them take the brand to the next level. The area we miss the Jil influence is definitely in the shapes and dressmaking.

I wil be honest, I do sometimes fantasy window shop the women's collection. Some pieces are really smart and fun. But this collection does feel like a turn for the worse.