^ And as always, a fantastic soundtrack! And the remixing of Nyman... swoon worthy. They don't do them like this anymore, even with Healy at Margiela. I do always go back and forth with the slew of bias cut dresses in some of these shows, thinking there's perhaps far too many. But that is also thanks to the amount of vintage resellers that just put these pieces on absolute blast to up sell them into the tens of thousands.
Favourite pieces are the suiting and Bar jackets. Galliano knew the importance of the Bar jacket and where and/or how to push it during this time.
When looking back at these collections now, it would be great if he took the sensibility he had to the RTW and transposed it to Margiela. It finally clicked as to why I'm not enjoying his Margiela, especially in recent years, is because of the avid mini-crini orientated Westwood-isms that are present. Not that I hate Westwood, but it's just too forced and I've always felt Westwood erred far too close - and if not exactly into - the realm of costume so things are too precious. And that's what his Margiela is now, cloyingly precious. Whereas here, there is a preciousness because it is Dior but becuase there is a clear distinction of its wearability you can see who or how it can be worn as a look and as a wardrobe piece.