John Galliano - Designer, Creative Director of Maison Margiela

[blueorchid]

Many people around here has access to it... gatekeeping is fun I guess

I mean, technically if you have access to these databases you aren't SUPPOSED to share the contents around online. Read the Terms & Conditions/Terms of Access/etc. It's not gatekeeping.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Be it Givenchy, Balenciaga or wherever, it feels like there is a comeback in the making

Can we really call a "comeback" though? He came back first with a residency at ODLR via Wintour then really had his comeback with Margiela. I wouldn't really say these rumours area much of a comeback at all, just a brazen over hyping of nostalgia for the sake of nostalgia...

We all know Wintour is a huge fan and advocate for Galliano, and if a MET exhibition happens it wouldn't be that much of a surprise but I honestly wouldn't call it the beginning of a comeback. And there really is no rhyme or reason for him to go to any of these brands bar the "couture" aspect because business over at Kering has been abysmal. Considering that side of things is what caused him to go beyond his limit, I don't think he wants to revisit that ever again.

The only thing that really should be done is to give him back the rights for his own label. Toledano may have changed his mood towards him, but he still has kept his grasp tight on the Galliano name. No actual forgiveness, just face value pleasantries and acting like an adult when it is needed but still keeping business as usual.

 

[Lola701]

The only thing that really should be done is to give him back the rights for his own label. Toledano may have changed his mood towards him, but he still has kept his grasp tight on the Galliano name. No actual forgiveness, just face value pleasantries and acting like an adult when it is needed but still keeping business as usual.

So they should just give him back like that…As if they did not bought it.
It would be fair if John express the desire to buy it back. He is a grown man who made that decision a long time ago. And it’s a business decision.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

^ That is true, and John agreed to the business decision. And not that I would expect them to hand it over free of charge, but considering what it has turned into, I'm not sure anyone would be happy to purchase something that is in such a state...

But perhaps that is why John hasn't expressed interest in buying it back. All been and gone. It had it's time and he's onto something else now.

 

[Lola701]

^ That is true, and John agreed to the business decision. And not that I would expect them to hand it over free of charge, but considering what it has turned into, I'm not sure anyone would be happy to purchase something that is in such a state...

But perhaps that is why John hasn't expressed interest in buying it back. All been and gone. It had it's time and he's onto something else now.

I just don’t want that, through the documentary and the Met Gala and the involvement of Anna, infantilize this grown multi-millionaire man.
We love him, we love his work, some people are still stuck in the nostalgia of his glorious past or whatever but this is a man who was fired because he made a huge fault that beyond the audience and the people at La Perle, hurt also his collaborators.

He sold John Galliano to LVMH. The brand was never profitable, it was on life support until it wasn’t. I’m sure there’s nothing left of this brand today…

He could probably buy his name back for a commercial use, if he wants to do side projects. But he is maybe totally fine with it.

Christian Lacroix doesn’t seem interested in buying his name back. Ines De La Fressange ultimately bought her name back…

I think this trend of infantilize John goes with the projection or assumptions regarding his future and the Countless rumors about his future…As a man who is still employed by OTB.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

We should all hold hands and move FORWARD

 

[blueorchid]

I think this trend of infantilize John goes with the projection or assumptions regarding his future and the Countless rumors about his future…As a man who is still employed by OTB.

Honestly, the entire infantilization of John is why I've been finding it difficult to stomach the redemption roadshow of John (via Anna).

 

[Alquimista]

If Galliano is super relevant for fashion today, them fashion is fcked. A creative industry totally dependent on nostalgia is not a good sign, specially fashion which should always dictate the new.

I don't understand how Tom Ford is irrelevant but Galliano isnt. Both are finished, they are past their prime but G should go to Givenchy or Chanel or lol what is this? Total buffonery

@Creative is more than right. Stupid stan fights are irrelevant. I may love Hedi, Nicolas, Ricardo but they're all past their peak.

Fashion need new blood. New disruptors.

 

[tourbillions]

funny thing is that, although that might have been true a few seasons ago. With just 1 show, he proved he is still as relevant as ever. Besides, the landscape of fashion is totally different now. Most people who are following him since the last Margiela show probably had an idea of who he was but they were not following or didnt have access to Dior's Galliano days at that moment. Fashion used to be a lot more private and those who were part of and over gallianos past-hype are probably much less than those who are just rediscovering him and wanting to have a chance to be a part of his margiela.

Are we really equating tom ford to galliano?

Another example is that even people who only hear of Mcqueen from song lyrics and has 0 idea of who the man was and that he has not been running the house for a long time are longing for that type of fashion he brought.

The current consumer/hypebeast crowd will always love fashion that challenge the senses. That's why micheles gucci worked, demnas balenciaga, jw andersons loewe, roseberrys schiaparelli. But they need to evolve as well otherwise this crowd will move on to the next shiny thing as fast as they stanned the first one.

 

[gallianostan]

Fashion need new blood. New disruptors.

lol what? how on earth could you possibly disrupt fashion any further in 2024? literally everything has been done before. disruption is no longer possible. this obsession with newness needs to stop.

 

[lookatme]

lol what? how on earth could you possibly disrupt fashion any further in 2024? literally everything has been done before. disruption is no longer possible. this obsession with newness needs to stop.

Fashion is killing itself chasing "newness" and "attention grabbing." What it really needs to do is refocus on quality.

Every rule and convention has been broken down over the last 30 years...to the point that we have nothing left, including the craft of designer clothing. In the 90's, when designers began really pushing the boundaries, at least they were still steeped in the culture of true savoir faire and surrounded by the artisans and craftsman who could execute with perfection. The only thing that separates something worthwhile on the designer market now from all the trash is quality...and it's very hard to come by now with all the cost cutting and corner cutting going on in the industry.

I think it's why, in a lot of ways, the vintage market is so hot right now. You get clothes with significantly higher quality make and design appeal for the same price, or oftentimes less than what is currently being sold in most stores.

 

[CholoChic]

Whatever john galliano does, he will do great. He has the touch that only an artist has.

 

[Lola701]

funny thing is that, although that might have been true a few seasons ago. With just 1 show, he proved he is still as relevant as ever. Besides, the landscape of fashion is totally different now. Most people who are following him since the last Margiela show probably had an idea of who he was but they were not following or didnt have access to Dior's Galliano days at that moment. Fashion used to be a lot more private and those who were part of and over gallianos past-hype are probably much less than those who are just rediscovering him and wanting to have a chance to be a part of his margiela.

Are we really equating tom ford to galliano?

Another example is that even people who only hear of Mcqueen from song lyrics and has 0 idea of who the man was and that he has not been running the house for a long time are longing for that type of fashion he brought.

The current consumer/hypebeast crowd will always love fashion that challenge the senses. That's why micheles gucci worked, demnas balenciaga, jw andersons loewe, roseberrys schiaparelli. But they need to evolve as well otherwise this crowd will move on to the next shiny thing as fast as they stanned the first one.

I don’t think there’s a question of « relevance » when we talk about iconic legendary designers who have shifted the fashion conversation.

I think what he has done at Margiela so far has proven that his work still resonate with people. His clothes or at least what he has proposed for Margiela RTW were fresh, fresher than the Couture that went viral.

Fortunately, designers who have shifted the conversation regarding fashion in the 2000’s have managed to be somehow relevant. They may have past their prime but their work has remained timeless and a source of inspiration for many.

The Margiela Couture show was a moment in fashion but doesn’t contribute at all in the relevance or not of John Galliano. He is not going to change the way people dress like he did at his prime and it’s good.

It is the same for Tom Ford. He was past his prime but his contribution to fashion has allowed him to create a brand that has a cultural relevance (and he contributed in changing the way some men dressed too).

But it’s the same thing with Hedi, Nicolas, Phoebe, Miuccia and others.

We may have the fashion we deserve but the leading voice today is a JW Anderson, a Demna (even if the wave is dying), an Alessandro, a Daniel Roseberry, a Vaccarello and all the children of Phoebe Philo.


I think designers have totally integrated the fact that everything has been done but the answer is not to chase Nostalgia.

We are in the period of fashion recycling itself, from people buying vintage, photographers recycling VI editorial and defining it as their aesthetic. Suddenly a Galliano show that is not relevant in our lives is somehow part of that conversation.

I don’t know if Galliano wants to live in his past as some of his fans wants him to though. The Couture he showed was almost him in autopilot but do women wants to look like that today? I don’t think so…
And he is a designer who has changed the way women dresses.

 

[gallianostan]

a Daniel Roseberry

so daniel roseberry is relevant but john isn't? please tell me how daniel roseberry is, as you say, changing the way that people dress today lmao

 

[Lola701]

so daniel roseberry is relevant but john isn't? please tell me how daniel roseberry is, as you say, changing the way that people dress today lmao

Roseberry is for better or worse a leading name in fashion and Couture today.
I genuinely believe that someone like John Galliano has passed the time of being « relevant ». There’s something about Roseberry’s work that is very representative of our time, the way people approach eveningwear or even the way people view Couture and his sense of formality and kind of pop drama.
He has yet to materialize it in RTW…

We may like it or not but Roseberry is one of those names that count today.

Galliano is doing Galliano. Much like Armani is doing Armani. This time, it became a topic of conversation but it’s not indicative of anything outside of the context post-show.

But then again, personally, for me the « relevance » in John’s work today is the fact that Margiela as a platform, allow him to design clothes for women and men of his time and also speak to a younger generation.

Doing a bunch of conservative clothes for a long time at Dior and even during his little stint at ODLR kinda isolated him.

 

[Alquimista]

lol what? how on earth could you possibly disrupt fashion any further in 2024? literally everything has been done before. disruption is no longer possible. this obsession with newness needs to stop.

It's not obsession, friend. It's the nature of fashion. If it was different, there would be no fashion week. It would be clothes week or textile week.

So, I can't answer how to disrupt fashion today. That's the designer's job. But I would not say everything has been done, this sort of statement don't age well.

But still I can't see what is the great relevance Galliano has that Tom Ford does not. Being Anna's favorite is not a very precise answer. He's her boy because of his legacy and she's trying to clean his reputation.

 

[Lola701]

And I’m kind of confused by « the obsession for newness ». Creative should thrive for newness but newness is not about creating something that didn’t exist, it’s about finding new ways, inventive ways, new techniques, new context to interpret something familiar.

And if we want to attach it to Galliano, they experimented with new techniques to put those clothes in a different context. The viral Makeup was created in the quest for « new » even if there’s a kind of anachronism because it mimicked old dolls.

The 80’s of 2020 don’t look like the 80’s done in the late 00’s/early 10’s or the 00’s done in the early 00’s. The same for the 70’s and etc.

The past inform the present to create the future. And we are not going to get younger so that idea of embracing the past to ditch the present is quite weird to me.

 

[fenty]

Fashion need new blood. New disruptors.

Who is going to disrupt the scene when they can't afford to do a full collection let alone a runway show? There is NO MONEY being invested into new talent, dreaming of newness is a waste of time.

I've also said in the past that nostalgia is ruining the industry but looking from a commercial perspective it's the best they've got.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

There are countless ways to be a disruptor with little money. Just start doing something different than the norm, or just respond to what's going on right now... And with social media yes there are millions of voices but if you put yourself out there your voice CAN be heard. I mean look what Olivier Theyskens did. He worked long and hard on those one of a kind scrap patchwork dresses and presented them on mannequins, which resonated with so many people in a big way. Didn't need to be a big hand over fist money making consumeristic social media runway production (the expensive norm) to be meaningful. Do not be nihilistic here! There is beauty everywhere!

 

[Alquimista]

Who is going to disrupt the scene when they can't afford to do a full collection let alone a runway show? There is NO MONEY being invested into new talent, dreaming of newness is a waste of time.

I've also said in the past that nostalgia is ruining the industry but looking from a commercial perspective it's the best they've got.

They don't want to invest in creative design. All that talk about timeless style, quiet luxury only mean > we don't want crazy designs at our houses. But they're shooting their own foot, in my view. Time will tell.

One of my favorite young designers is Steven passaro. He's underrated. No gimmicks in his work. He embraces technology, AI but also preserves the craft. But who is investing in him? The budget must be tight judging by his shows.

There are countless ways to be a disruptor with little money. Just start doing something different than the norm, or just respond to what's going on right now... And with social media yes there are millions of voices but if you put yourself out there your voice CAN be heard. I mean look what Olivier Theyskens did. He worked long and hard on those one of a kind scrap patchwork dresses and presented them on mannequins, which resonated with so many people in a big way. Didn't need to be a big hand over fist money making consumeristic social media runway production (the expensive norm) to be meaningful. Do not be nihilistic here! There is beauty everywhere!

I feel like some of those kids don't want to get their hands dirty. They want the big job now. But it was never easy if you had no money or didn't had a aristocratic name.

Not to mention the fact that luxury brands are not interested in creativity now. They want dull quiet luxury stuff.

The kids can run a small operation, they can do mid priced contemporary like Ganni. The big brands don't have to be the be all end all.