John Galliano - Designer | Page 62 | the Fashion Spot

John Galliano - Designer

Think this is a smart move for Galliano tbh. Most press he's had in years. If he can produce good work, which he certainly will, then it could get his name back into the conversation for bigger jobs down the line. He's an intelligent man and will have one eye on what he wants to do next, unless he is just doing this for the money because he is broke, which I doubt.
 
But seriously: from my POV (Brazil), Zara is not exactly cheap as in europe; you can buy it if you're middle class but it's not cheap cheap.

And as a person who is not a fabric fetichist, I love designers working with not so dignified fabrics. Fine silk can be luxurious but it's not an essential part of fashion design in general imo.
zara is over priced also in europe for what it is.

people confuse overseeing that its cheaply made with the not so cheap pricing as a indication of not so bad or not cheap product

synthetics are forever chemicals they are made in lab and get into our drinking water and food and animal , causing birth defects and long term illness dna mutations cancers etc etc

natural fabrics is not about luxury its a basic gold standard, just as clean drinking water or natural foods are marketed as luxury now.

Polyester is a synthetic, petroleum-based fiber derived primarily from fossil fuels(non-renewable energy sources—coal, crude oil, and natural gas), specifically through a chemical reaction involving petroleum, coal, air, and water.

To color polyester you have to use :
Disperse dyes frequently causing contact dermatitis, skin irritation, and sensitization in humans, these dyes can leach out due to sweat or friction and have been linked to potential carcinogenicity and reproductive toxicity. etc

why would you want that on your skin ?

ok for an umbrella or raincoat but not near your skin babe!!!
 
But seriously: from my POV (Brazil), Zara is not exactly cheap as in europe; you can buy it if you're middle class but it's not cheap cheap.

And as a person who is not a fabric fetichist, I love designers working with not so dignified fabrics. Fine silk can be luxurious but it's not an essential part of fashion design in general imo.
Even in the US, Zara is not cheap. The "collection" items tend to be in the hundreds. They are often made with silk, cotton, or wool. There is a Jean jacket lately that is priced at $300+. Normally when I shop at Zara I go straight to the search bar and type in "collection".

I feel like a lot of people here don't really shop personally.
 
Even in the US, Zara is not cheap. The "collection" items tend to be in the hundreds. They are often made with silk, cotton, or wool. There is a Jean jacket lately that is priced at $300+. Normally when I shop at Zara I go straight to the search bar and type in "collection".

I feel like a lot of people here don't really shop personally.
Zara is not that cheap in the UK either, but it has a reputation as 'high street' / one step above fast fashion. It's certainly not associated with anything designer in the public's mind, whereas its competitors like H&M have done interesting collaborations for years and successfully got themselves talked about in those terms - BBC News even ran a piece on an H&M/Rabanne collab, interviewed shoppers spending thousands of pounds, and explained who Paco Rabanne was, to casual readers. Zara has never had anything like that, as far as I can remember, so I don't think an expensive Galliano collab will be bad for them, quite the opposite in fact.
 
zara is over priced also in europe for what it is.

people confuse overseeing that its cheaply made with the not so cheap pricing as a indication of not so bad or not cheap product

synthetics are forever chemicals they are made in lab and get into our drinking water and food and animal , causing birth defects and long term illness dna mutations cancers etc etc

natural fabrics is not about luxury its a basic gold standard, just as clean drinking water or natural foods are marketed as luxury now.

Polyester is a synthetic, petroleum-based fiber derived primarily from fossil fuels(non-renewable energy sources—coal, crude oil, and natural gas), specifically through a chemical reaction involving petroleum, coal, air, and water.

To color polyester you have to use :
Disperse dyes frequently causing contact dermatitis, skin irritation, and sensitization in humans, these dyes can leach out due to sweat or friction and have been linked to potential carcinogenicity and reproductive toxicity. etc

why would you want that on your skin ?

ok for an umbrella or raincoat but not near your skin babe!!!
but by not dignified fabrics , you can include cotton. And who knows what kind of synthetics they will make in the future. I don't discard something just because it's synthetic.
 
zara is over priced also in europe for what it is.

people confuse overseeing that its cheaply made with the not so cheap pricing as a indication of not so bad or not cheap product

synthetics are forever chemicals they are made in lab and get into our drinking water and food and animal , causing birth defects and long term illness dna mutations cancers etc etc

natural fabrics is not about luxury its a basic gold standard, just as clean drinking water or natural foods are marketed as luxury now.

Polyester is a synthetic, petroleum-based fiber derived primarily from fossil fuels(non-renewable energy sources—coal, crude oil, and natural gas), specifically through a chemical reaction involving petroleum, coal, air, and water.

To color polyester you have to use :
Disperse dyes frequently causing contact dermatitis, skin irritation, and sensitization in humans, these dyes can leach out due to sweat or friction and have been linked to potential carcinogenicity and reproductive toxicity. etc

why would you want that on your skin ?

ok for an umbrella or raincoat but not near your skin babe!!!

From a market perspective, there will consistently be a need for 49,90€ casual pants as much as there is for 3€ /kg tomatoes or other discount-priced consumer goods of everyday life - It's the new normal for people whose income never adapted to inflation and recession.

Of course that does not free either their providers nor the consumers to retain a sense of responsibility over what they buy.

Uniqlo is obviously not free from criticism, but where Zara and most fashion-oriented high street chains sell a trend driven product, by focussing on everyday staples, Uniqlo clothes usually have a longer cycle of usage by their buying customers.

What then becomes an interesting challenge is to conceive a product that retains a sense of integrity at that price point, ideally bringing a durable fabric, construction in a happy unison with just enough design input to end up with a modern staple. Most often, this means for the designer to act as much as a textile engineer and product manager as a provider of style. In that regard, Jil Sander and Lemaire did a great job.

We know with Galliano at Zara, the framework is entirely different. He is neither the designer for such an approach, nor do Zara's products communicate the same 'promise' as Uniqlo's. For Zara, this is entirely a PR exercise, they will compensate the high costs to make Galliano's product by lowering the product margin to an almost non-existing profit. In between, they will put a few cheap accessories and t-shirts where the customer's motivation is just to buy into the momentum of this line.
 
but by not dignified fabrics , you can include cotton. And who knows what kind of synthetics they will make in the future. I don't discard something just because it's synthetic.
Another thing I never understand is why people would pay that much for Vuori or Alo...how is it better to pay for a pair of $150 leggings, made of plastic (petroleum ultimately), vs. paying $50 for the same plastic garment offered at Zara, unless it enhances the performance.
i.e. I get why people pay premium price for performance gears, but a fully plastic sweatshirt...why?
 
This is perhaps the main difference between my most purely fashion-enthusiastic 20-something self in the 2000s, compared to the place I find myself in, moving forward in 2026; there is a degree of questioning how clothes can/will integrate in the activities that commonly happen in my life, versus my previous self, who would just buy what he likes without really asking myself if there was an actual need or occasion to wear the clothes, at all.

That being said, as a buyer for a boutique, wearing fancy clothes on a more casual level felt right, whereas sitting at a desk or running a daily errand in a fancy blazer feels quite a bit overdressed - The reality is, I have a substantial part of my wardrobe now filled with clothes I still love, but barely get to wear.

So whenever people brush off the criteria of practicality and pragmatism in fashion, it's a lazy response in the bane of creative freedom or a disregard for what most often matters in the end of the day; you don't want to wear a silk dress that wrinkles in an unpleasant manner after a seated appointment or car ride, there is no joy in a garment you wear once that your dry cleaner will hate you for because of a combination of fabrics used that make it impossible to clean.

There will always be a small segment in my wardrobe left for pieces that defy these regards but they make up the smallest amount in 2026 - Much like a dietician would rightly answer you don't make up the largest part of what you eat from cake, lol. I will most likely not buy from Haider's Tom Ford for that very reason (did you, Lola?).

Interesting and I think a lot of people who buys designers clothes (whether it’s HF or even not so expensive but very much special in terms of aesthetic) gets to that point.

Tbh environment or at least my lifestyle has quickly impacted the way I bought clothes. Growing up in a household where adults all had some kind of « uniform » whether it was suits from my parents or the uniform my grandmother made for herself, I was aware that entering the professional world meant at some point integrating the idea of « uniform » and as my professional and personal lives became 1, I have « uniforms » in some ways.

So pieces that i bought were quickly meant to be part of the variations of my various uniforms (which evolved as a grew older).

I always had an issue with eveningwear.

I must say that the first time I bought Dries, it was totally out of love and his clothes didn’t made sense at the time for my lifestyle. I started to buy his clothes with the SS2009. I even bought jewelry and wasn’t a jewelry person.
I was living in Paris, in between the subway, walking in the street, taking a cab maybe but a very active life and I had those clothes that didn’t make sense in a way.

I rediscovered those clothes when I moved to the south of France. Life was slightly slower, allowed for more fantasy and colors and even fanciness and above all, I was in an environment where I could go back home and change an outfit before going out…Which was nearly impossible in Paris.

Overtime I realized that I always find a way to make my clothes work regarding my environment. The same cannot be said about accessories for example.

And really my approach towards designer clothes (HF or not) now is only going for « special pieces » . Do I need another black pantsuit? No. Another pair of black pants? No! I always try to think about what I have before purchasing something so it’s always very pragmatic. The same way that I’m very particular about fabrics (don’t bring Mohair or transparent vinyl next to me) or even neckline of dresses (bustiers or strapless are really rare) or even small things like transparency (buying a dress made of 1 or 2 layers of mousseline is totally pointless) or embroideries.


Regarding Tom Ford by Haider, ultimately I ordered in late January the woman’s version of the blazer with dots worn by Scott Barnhill on the first show. Tbh, it was a bit of a FOMO because it was on sales on NAP and I knew I wasn’t going to be in a city where there’s a Tom Ford store. Still haven’t got a hold on it though.

I loved the show but as much as I have always loved Haider’s clothes, I’m not familiar with his cut. So that piece is my first ever Haider piece.

Tom Ford is still a quite formal brand And Galliano is one of those designers who truly shines with formality. That’s why it can be fabulous to look at, easy to imagine yourself in it and at the end can be hard to really get into.
 
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but by not dignified fabrics , you can include cotton. And who knows what kind of synthetics they will make in the future. I don't discard something just because it's synthetic.
cotton is dignified its natural its beautiful , and it's expensive for shirts and bed linens and tableware so i don't know where this idea comes from cotton is a poor material.

why its even replaced by synthesis in lots of t shirts because it takes a lot of effort to grow and harvest it. and some seasons with climate change you have less cotton and price goes up.

depending how you refinde it cotton is elite like egyptian cotton etc just like linen silk leather wool cashmere vicuna etc


try for your bed D. Porthault bedding i love and use its woven of 100% Egyptian cotton or Belgian linen your avare set is 3k for your bed :)

enjoy :)
 
Another thing I never understand is why people would pay that much for Vuori or Alo...how is it better to pay for a pair of $150 leggings, made of plastic (petroleum ultimately), vs. paying $50 for the same plastic garment offered at Zara, unless it enhances the performance.
i.e. I get why people pay premium price for performance gears, but a fully plastic sweatshirt...why?

BOF​

Wool Workout Clothes? The Demand Is Growing​

The consumer base for activewear made of natural materials like cotton and wool is growing, as more people on the political right join progressives in worrying about the health effects of polyester and other synthetics.

Natural-fibre activewear brands include Nero, Mate the Label and Mover Sportswear.

“Clean” fashion has been gaining interest among consumers worried about the rising tide of environmental and personal health problems surrounding chemical toxins. (BoF Team)

By Jessica Kwon
16 February 2026
BoF PROFESSIONAL

Key insights​

  • The growing natural-fibre activewear category is increasingly fuelled by interest from both sides of the political spectrum, as conservatives who subscribe to US health secretary Robert F. Kennedy, Jr.’s Make America Healthy Again movement join “clean” fashion’s devotees.
  • Though activewear composed of textiles like cotton and merino wool has bolstered sales for brands like Mate the Label, Nero and Mover Sportswear, it also presents deterrents for potential customers, like high free-shipping thresholds, decreased durability and a lack of the performance qualities that consumers are accustomed to.
  • Brands are employing different tactics to court new customers to natural-fibre activewear, including leaning into rhetoric centred on traditional gendered social roles and squeezing margins to keep prices aligned with those of mass-market brands’ top-end products.

In a November video posted to the activewear brand Nero’s TikTok account, a rapid montage of stock footage clips featuring young, shirtless men wielding spears accompanies an AI-generated voice-over narration.
“We were sold lies. And big sports brands profited while our health paid the price,” the deep, monotonal voice drones. “Before the gym, men trained to survive. Ask any true hunter what he trusts in the wild: It’s not polyester. It’s not plastic. It’s merino wool.”
The strategy seems to be working. Since the Manchester-based brand launched last April, it recently hit $3 million in revenue, with roughly 80 percent of sales to US-based customers, according to founder Tyler Ball.
Nero’s advertisements wouldn’t feel out of place within the manosphere, the growing corner of the internet dedicated to men’s social issues and to the preservation of an idealised form of masculinity. But the brand has found itself in an unusual alliance with sustainability and wellness brands whose united mission is to get more people working out in wool.

This isn’t the coarse, scratchy fibre found in your grandma’s sweaters: The merino wool used by brands like Nero and B corp-certified Mate the Label is naturally temperature-regulating, sweat-wicking and resistant to smell — unlike synthetics, which tend to be breeding grounds for stinky bacteria.
Similar to clean eating and clean beauty, “clean” fashion has been gaining interest among consumers worried about the rising tide of environmental and personal health problems surrounding chemical toxins and microplastics (once more a topic of debate after studies about their prevalence in the human body were recently called into question).

Activewear and intimates have come under particular scrutiny due to their close proximity to the skin and heavy use of synthetics like polyester and nylon. More shoppers are seeking out products composed of fibres like cotton, hemp and merino wool.


The target customers for these items span a wide spectrum. Mate the Label, which sells $98 stretch leggings made from 92 percent organic cotton and 8 percent Spandex, attracted many political progressives in the past, but its core consumer is changing, according to founder and chief executive Kayti O’Connell Carr. “A lot more customers that have come in recently [are] interested in the MAHA movement and in clean living,” Carr said, referring to Make America Healthy Again, the populist, right-aligned movement pushed by US health secretary Robert F. Kennedy, Jr.
Activewear grew to account for half the company’s sales last year, despite it not being a specialist in the category. In 2026, expanding its activewear offering is the company’s top priority.
Even with a broadening customer base, natural-fibre activewear still faces a host of challenges to going mainstream. Whatever drawbacks synthetics may have, they dominate the industry because they work. In many cases, natural fibres don’t offer the same durability and performance.
Still, more brands are experimenting with them, from upstarts like Nero, unisex gorpcore label Mover Sportswear and activewear set maker Don Kaka to larger players such as On, which offers items like merino wool-blend T-shirts.
“[Natural-fibre activewear] is niche at the moment, but … there will be a gradual shift and a rejection of synthetic fashion, particularly among more discerning cohorts, such as Gen Z, whose trust in big brands is waning,” said Yvonne Kostiak, WGSN’s head of active, in an email.

“Much like ‘clean eating’ has dominated the last decade, ‘clean activewear’ will become more prevalent in wellness circles in the future.”

The ‘Clean Activewear’ Customer​

Devotees of natural-fibre activewear come in a wide range of demographics. Gen Z consumers tend to prioritise socially responsible labels that use natural formulations, according to Nielsen. The generation grew up heavily exposed to ultra-fast fashion, and often associates synthetic materials with lower quality and inauthenticity.
But Nicolas Rochat, CEO of Mover Sportswear, which only uses natural fibres, said Mover’s customers are largely in their 40s. The brand, which is opening its first brick-and-mortar location this year in Zurich, is working to court a younger audience, too, by developing youth-focused offerings and squeezing margins to keep prices in line with those of Patagonia’s top-end products.
Companies’ messaging also varies. Carr said Mate the Label’s core consumers are young mothers, women who are interested in improving their fertility and health- and wellness-minded women who also tend to purchase clean beauty products. The brand frequently features mothers with their children in its marketing, a notable choice when courting a generation for whom the subjects of marriage and children have become drastically polarised along partisan lines.
Nero’s adverts promise “a return to nature” and “a return to truth.” Its website features news articles about the health effects of polyester on testosterone levels and men’s fertility — and boasts that its products will improve men’s virility and “keep [their] balls cool.” Hyper-masculine social media posts — including ones comparing Nero’s offerings to the attire worn by Alexander the Great, Japanese samurai and bodybuilders like Arnold Schwarzenegger — tend to fare well algorithmically, according to Ball.
But the common thread among these approaches is the message that plastic is harmful and natural is better.
“There’s an awareness around the sustainability benefits [and] health benefits, and consumers are choosing more natural than they are polymer-fibre types,” said Alexa Suter, the founder of Huha, an intimates and apparel brand based mostly on Tencel — a brand of lyocell and modal, semi-synthetic textiles derived from wood pulp. “I think the next wave is clean ‘skinwear,’ not just clean skincare.”
According to Suter, Huha’s revenue has more than doubled every year since its launch in 2020.

Obstacles to Growth​

Even as natural-fibre activewear gains new acolytes, the share of shoppers swapping out their synthetic gym clothes and intimates remains slim overall.
For the vast majority of customers, the top purchase criteria for sportswear are price, functionality and design, according to Euromonitor. Many remain ignorant or wary of the natural-fibre category, while curious shoppers face deterrents, including a lack of physical outlets in which to try on products and high free-shipping thresholds to test out items they see online.

Activewear shoppers are also accustomed to fabrics that have cooling, compressing and weatherproofing capabilities that can be difficult to achieve with wool or cotton, which presents significant challenges when designing specific performance products, including sports bras for people with larger cup sizes
, Suter noted.
“Consumers want products that perform, and very few … will be willing to trade off performance for health,” she said.
The general perception around natural-fibre activewear is that customers are paying more for lesser quality.
Alden Wicker, a sustainable-fashion journalist, believes natural-fibre performance wear’s primary drawback is that it’s not as durable as its synthetic counterpart.
“If you’re going to switch to natural fibres, you just have to know that you’re going to be replacing your socks and your leggings and your sports bras more often than you would otherwise,”
she said.

Of course, some companies use natural fibres because they don’t last forever. Mate the Label’s Carr said her intention is that the brand’s products biodegrade naturally, adding,

“We don’t actually want our garments to last hundreds of years.”


In the meantime, independent brands are happy to meet the present appetite for natural-fibre activewear.
 
True but rather 2 great Galliano collections in a year rather than 10 sh!t ones like Blazy is putting out. One can dream lol
I heard during a dinner party in NYC that Marc Jacobs was a close tie to MB during the decision making process. Sofia really pushed for him but Leena wasn’t satisfied with his history with drugs.

Marc is sober and was willing to go back to Paris

Omg, we’re living in a tragic timeline…
 
Lola, you ordered a Tom Ford blazer, even though you’re not familiar with his cut?

Recently, you mentioned that you’re pregnant. I’m no expert here on Tom’s clothes by Haider, but I guarantee you that they’re not designed with pregnant women in mind. I smell a return.
 
Lola, you ordered a Tom Ford blazer, even though you’re not familiar with his cut?

Recently, you mentioned that you’re pregnant. I’m no expert here on Tom’s clothes by Haider, but I guarantee you that they’re not designed with pregnant women in mind. I smell a return.
It’s only 9 months of my life my dear (actually 18 because it feels like back to back) lol!
I took my usual size at Tom Ford. It will fit. It may not fit like I want but it will fit
But yes I have always loved Haider’s work but never ever bought anything from him.

They don’t have a store in Paris ( and I complained about it) and while I love fashion, I’m not travelling anywhere solely for shopping. NAP was my last resort and I’m not sure I would have bought it if it wasn’t on sale. There wasn’t a sense of emergency anyway.

I’m really full on my pregnancy so I’m not trying new clothes. I live either in my gym attire , cotton shirt dresses or Carhartt menswear and I love it!

Except if you are Rihanna...

It does feel like it but after having 2 pregnancies almost back to back, I understand her! Getting it done once and for all. I wouldn’t have mind having twins for the first pregnancy 😂😂
 
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II’m really full on my pregnancy so I’m not trying new clothes. I live either in my gym attire , cotton shirt dresses or Carhartt menswear and I love it
Please tell me that the Carhartt piece(s) also say "Sacai" on the inside label.

Anyways, back to Galliano.

People online really seem to hate this venture w/ Zara, and I can't help but ask, "Why?" (Not like I bothered to read much into this.) To me, this sounds like a temp-job....just something to keep him occupied for the time being, and still bring in some cash. So I say "More power to him" if this if what he's doing next. This isn't the end of his world, I hope.
 
Please tell me that the Carhartt piece(s) also say "Sacai" on the inside label.

Anyways, back to Galliano.

People online really seem to hate this venture w/ Zara, and I can't help but ask, "Why?" (Not like I bothered to read much into this.) To me, this sounds like a temp-job....just something to keep him occupied for the time being, and still bring in some cash. So I say "More power to him" if this if what he's doing next. This isn't the end of his world, I hope.
My first reaction was that he and his backers wanted to test waters with this project. If there is demand, they will likely follow up with a higher budget project.

I don't care about what people say on social media. I have a feeling that once the items arrive at Zara people will buy up everything quickly - assuming the offerings are attractive!
 

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