Lanvin S/S 06 Paris

[softgrey]

Well ... the plastic beaded dogwood blossom ... I can actually see myself wearing that. And the piece it's on is probably my favorite ... but (broken record) I have no use in the world for spring jackets and coats!!! Someone must be buying them ... but I don't think I have *ever* seen one single person here wearing a spring coat. In weather where other people would wear a spring coat, people here are prolly getting one last wearing out of their fur

you know...
in the 'real' world (off the runway and away from fashion's seasons)
you can actually wear all of these clothes ANYTIME you feel like it...
you could even wear the jackets and coats in the ....fall...!~!!!


*i know it sounds crazy... ...a little subversive?... maybe...
but clothing can actually have a life beyond the season it is shown...
...

i have seen it with my own two eyes...
B)

 

[fashionista-ta]

you know...
in the 'real' world (off the runway and away from fashion's seasons)
you can actually wear all of these clothes ANYTIME you feel like it...
you could even wear the jackets and coats in the ....fall...!~!!!


*i know it sounds crazy... ...a little subversive?... maybe...
but clothing can actually have a life beyond the season it is shown...
...

i have seen it with my own two eyes...
B)

I know, I know Here's the thing though ... I don't have unlimited $$$$ to spend, and I want to buy things I can actually wear during the upcoming season. Every season pretty much I do buy a minor "stock up" piece for the future, but in general, I want to buy and wear for the current season. Once I do that, yes, if the new stuff doesn't last beyond the current season I consider it a shopping failure ...

Also, that jacket is a lovely white on white. Sometimes during the winter, winter white and pastels are a nice break. But during the transitional season, you really want to dive into fall colors. That jacket says spring ... but it's for a season that hardly exists here. (I remember your saying too that your spring was about 3 days long ...)

Back to my original point, though, I still think a spring coat is a completely useless garment for many climates. I don't like wearing coats (I guess a lot of people must see it differently), and only do it when I have to. So the Tao collection ... I liked it, but damn, for a collection about handkerchiefs it was all about coats! Could we have a few more skirts, please? I know what to do with those ...

 

[softgrey]

...
ditto about the tao collection...

*and our fall is becoming as short as our spring...
...unfortunately...
strangely though...
i realised that i have more than 5 white or off white jacket/blzrs...
and i am one of those people that loves wearing jackets...
(i think that is why i started wearing vests....
next best thing to a jkt when the weather is hot...)
i feel naked without a jacket or vest or cardi or something......

that said...
this collection is a big disappointment to me on many other levels...
...

my fave bit is the knots

 

[Lena]

I totally see where you're coming from Lena, the shoes remind me of "stripper heels"! But I don't know there's something about them that's pulling me towards them.. I simply can't figure it out!

yes, exactly, strippers heels andora ..
since i have a soft point for fetichist shoes i would have actually loved them if their platform was lower, it could fit & feel much better ..

 

[fashionista-ta]

that said...
this collection is a big disappointment to me on many other levels...
...

my fave bit is the knots

I am right there with you ... not that this is not a perfectly respectable collection, but it is in no way what I'd hoped for. And honestly, why am I looking at this and seeing Mouret, Prada, YSL, etc.?? I am really growing weary of this ... we all remember what happened when European royalty became so totally in-bred

I'm sure you remember what you said about Elbaz in the Martin Grant thread ... and darned if he didn't pull an about-face and go in that exact same direction! I am probably not objective about this collection, but I was more impressed by what Martin did. It's so nice to see designers sail over the bar they've previously set rather than limboing below it

But yes, the knots were cool ... interesting in fact the emphasis on *straps* this spring ... and there were knotted straps (also cool) at Paco Rabanne as well ...

 

[JuiceMajor]

[font=&quot]Lanvin goes geisha[/font]

[font=&quot]By Suzy Menkes International Herald Tribune

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2005[/font]

[font=&quot]The power woman was supposed to have gone the way of out-there shoulder pads and androgynous dressing. But after the spring/summer 2006 season closed with Lanvin's neckties and cinching belts and Louis Vuitton's manic Versace-esque clothes and bags, it seems that brash is back.[/font]

[font=&quot]Not that the vision of Alber Elbaz for Lanvin could be seen as a 1980s flashback. It was not even flashy, with its preponderance of black clothes decorated with an obi sash and a Japanese hair ornament. Yet there was something hard-edged about Lanvin that was a move away from the gentle, user-friendly, womanly clothes. Shoulders were sharper and neckties gave a mannish slant.[/font]

[font=&quot]And why the geisha spirit in the obis and the ornamentation of cherry blossoms in sequins for cocktail dresses?[/font]

[font=&quot]"Perfection!" said Elbaz backstage. "Geishas are perfect."[/font]

[font=&quot]Yet this is a designer who has built his Lanvin career on imperfection - not just the edges of fabric left deliberately unfinished or a dress with the soft volume of a cloud settling on the body. But also the complicity between creator and client in the context of clothes to embrace, not to live up to.[/font]

[font=&quot]The deep belts that cinched so many outfits told a different story. So did the hard-edged sexiness of a zipper deliberately undone half way up the back of a slim skirt. That was offset by the more graceful open back of a dress. The collection seemed a throwback to the brief period when Elbaz designed for Yves Saint Laurent, although there were still many Lanvin touches in dresses where the geishas seemed to be relaxing their midriff muscles, or when a kimono dress, delicately wrapped, caught the spirit of both designer and his lacquered muse. The models all wore the same demanding shoes: a thick platform sole up-tilted by a high, curving arc of a heel. They seemed symbolic of a collection where Lanvin was more rigorous, but less charming.[/font]

 

[fashionista-ta]

Suzy got it right ... I do not like the hard edge. I don't like a hard edge on my music, on my car, on my furniture, and most definitely not on my clothes.

 

[softgrey]

yeah ...well I LIKE a hard edge...
and the clothes don't even appeal to me...

Yet this is a designer who has built his Lanvin career on imperfection - not just the edges of fabric left deliberately unfinished or a dress with the soft volume of a cloud settling on the body. But also the complicity between creator and client in the context of clothes to embrace, not to live up to.

...
**this is exactly what is missing...that beautiful imperfection...
that slightly torn and worn edge...

a hard edge need not be sharp...

 

[Caffeine]

yeah ...well I LIKE a hard edge...
and the clothes don't even appeal to me...

...
**this is exactly what is missing...that beautiful imperfection...
that slightly torn and worn edge...

a hard edge need not be sharp...

IN fact, I think that lots of clothes are STIFF instead of "hard edged". Geishas are never close to be hard edged...culture wise, so following the Geisha theme will make the clothes stiff, not hard edged. I would say that Yohji's designs are hard edged.

 

[softgrey]

yeah..stiff...
which is not conducive to comfort......boo!...

 

[Spike413]

I can't get over how much I love those shoes! I want them!

It's odd, I was looking through the collection yesterday and I kept thinking wow, some of this seems mildly geisha-esque (this was before I read all the comments here and the style.com review ) What's odd is that I just finished reading Memoirs of a Geisha two weeks ago and got so inspired by it, I had like a whole collection brewing in my head (it was a fall collection, but still) Kinda threw me for a loop, seeing all of those obi style belts over coats and dresses, you know that feeling you get, kinda like

...but all inside.

Anyway, this is waaaay better then his last collection, I love the sharpness of it all, it seems a bit fresh after all those seasons of softness.

 

[Caffeine]

Just curious, can girls really wear those shoes on street walking? I don't think that I can even move a inch in them

 

[Zazie]

I don't know why nobody notices the sexiness of this collection - the fetish shoes, the "bondage" in perfect silk knots, the surprise back, the chiffon revealing satin corsets. Not as in-your-face as Helmut Newton, but the influences are there. I love it for that. It isn't genteel and ladylike pretty as in past seasons, it isn't boudoir sexy like YSL, it is completely modern and so subtly suggestive but completely seductive....I'd wear these on dates, including the laquered stripper shoes.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Which reviewer was it who was pointing out the bondage themes in the accessories at Chanel ... ? Looks like we need a bondage thread in trend spotting I won't be starting it though ... I am blissfully ignorant of such things



PS I am in the mood for soft ... and I *will* be wearing it ... I don't care how much shopping ingenuity is required

 

[melt977]

I love the shoes! (this must be the 3rd time I'm commenting on shoes from the s/s collections... but what can I say... I love my shoes... )

 

[arlekindearrabal]

this collection is great!
the textures, the silhouettes are very nice... the obi looks are really lovely, and those sequined dresses at the end are to-die-for... the shoes looks very interesting, from a design point of view, but i don't know if they could be very viable in real life...

 

[em 692]

Originally Posted by Zazie:

I don't know why nobody notices the sexiness of this collection - the fetish shoes, the "bondage" in perfect silk knots, the surprise back, the chiffon revealing satin corsets. Not as in-your-face as Helmut Newton, but the influences are there. I love it for that. It isn't genteel and ladylike pretty as in past seasons, it isn't boudoir sexy like YSL, it is completely modern and so subtly suggestive but completely seductive....I'd wear these on dates, including the laquered stripper shoes.

Oh, I noticed it alright. It is sexy in such a nice, appropriate- for- spring way. It's something that people can actually wear, and feel confident, not unsure, in- such an important aspect when it comes to designer clothes. Some can be just so outrageous, and yes, they are entertaining and innovative, but they're impossible to wear. This Lanvin collection, on the other hand, is exactly what I would like to see people wearing

 

[Zazie]

I agree! I'm in the mood for more grown up clothes, and I haven't seen seriously sexy (not Versace sexy) and suggestive clothes in a long while. About the "unsure" feeling, I know exactly what you meant. I wore an avant-garde baroque-like frilled skirt once to a club, and my bf paid a sort of a strange backhanded compliment, that he's glad that I'm a fashionably "adventurous" sort. I've always wondered if the subtext read "isn't this big frilly skirt a bit ridiculous?" I'm size34-36 and I wore the skirt with a vintage T, so I can't imagine the whole Versailles thing on anyone older and bigger. These elegantly sexy Lanvin pieces will instead get him to just say "Wow!", I suspect.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Well ... let us know

Where is that bondage thread you were starting m'dear?

 

[Lena]

i dont find this bondage really .. sexy yes, bondage nope