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Moonlighting fashionistas dabbling in cross-dressing have surely helped advance the transsexual image, but the real strides in 2010 were made by actual transsexuals and those who define themselves on a spectrum of gender rather than simply male or female. The clearest call to arms was the arrival of the transsexual model Lea T.
For Givenchy’s fall advertising campaign, Ms. T. was photographed by Mert and Marcus in a feathery blouson. When the ad was released in May, it set off a press frenzy, with Ms. T.’s modeling agency, Women, receiving more than 400 interview requests.
Ms. T., 28, has been a friend of the Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci, since she was 17. (The “T” stands for Tisci; he unofficially adopted her into his family.) She worked for the fashion house in various positions and as a fit model. It was Mr. Tisci’s idea to have her in the campaign.
“He saw that my transitioning process was hard, how prejudiced people are and how I was suffering,” Ms. T. said. “He wanted to make me happy to have a nice picture of me.”
Ms. T. wasn’t outed by the news media. In fact, it was a condition of her agreeing to do the ad that Mr. Tisci mention in interviews that she was transgender.
“When you are a transsexual, you look for your future, and you can’t see it,” Ms. T. said. “I thought this would be a nice message for another tranny: ‘Look, we can be the same as other girls and boys.’ It’s small, but it makes you feel like you have a little chance. Maybe a transsexual will open a magazine and think: ‘That’s cool. We can be whatever we want.’ That’s why I did the Givenchy campaign.”
Since the Givenchy ad, Ms. T. has become a popular editorial model, appearing twice in Vogue Paris. In 2011, she will be a guest on Oprah Winfrey’s show in its final season.
Born in Brazil to a soccer player father and a religious Catholic mother, Ms. T. was raised in Milan, to which she has returned to await her sexual reassignment surgery. She knows it won’t be a magic cure-all. “This is something you are going to keep for your life,” she said. “I will always feel uncomfortable, but it will make my life a little easier, and I will look in the mirror and see something I like more.”