Marc Jacobs F/W 09.10 New York

[prehuman]

I think it will be tough for a younger audience to understand this collection having not lived the 80s.

I don't know how I feel about it yet, though some pieces I could see myself in. We'll see when autumn comes around.

 

[cur53se]

I love it and I'm never been fan of Jacobs.

 

[lmelanie]

I watched the coverage on video fashion daily here in nyc..and i have to say i appreciated it more when I saw the runway video..and hearing marc discuss what he was thinking when creating the line..

 

[runner]

I'm much more attracted to the makeup than the clothes. Who styled this show?

it seems that francois nars did the makeup on tao (the asian model)
for the first time in a decade or so

 

[Chilian45]

its so cute how you all know the models name.

 

[Belowen]

I hate the clothes, but the hair and makeup is so f.cking whacky Love it.

 

[fashionista-ta]

it seems that francois nars did the makeup on tao (the asian model)
for the first time in a decade or so

I think you're saying there was more than one top makeup artist who worked on the show?

I really think what was done here, no repeating models, each one an individual, is quite quite interesting. I hope they're going to say more about it ...

 

[D A N A]

No one does accessories like Marc Jacobs.

 

[DandyWarhol]

heyyyy ... molly ringwald!

spfw.com

 

[La bordélique]

themoment.blogs.nytimes.com

for you ta-ta...

Backstage Beauty | François Nars Channels a Totally ’80s Marc Jacobs
By SANDRA BALLENTINE

Photos courtesy of Nars
Enough makeup for 65 unique looks.

With New York renovated to bits and in the economic doldrums, it felt really good to channel the good old days, when going out was fun and hair and makeup were truly transforming. Backstage at Marc Jacobs last night, as I watched Guido perform gravity-defying feats with a rat-tail comb and hairspray and François Nars paint killer smoky eyes, I was transported back to the very late ’80s, when I experimented with similarly courageous looks for nights out at places like Pyramid Club and Palladium.

Welcome back to the ’80s.

For Nars, the show marked a return to a certain era, too: it was his first runway outing in 10 years. A bit rumpled after a sleepless weekend spent brainstorming with Jacobs and Guido on the look (make that 65 looks, actually, each one tailored to a different model), he explained the inspiration: “Imagine if you took a blender and filled it with some Stephen Sprouse, a little Saint Laurent and added a few nightclubs from the ’70s and ’80s, like Studio 54, Area and Mudd Club,” he said. “You get this wonderful mix, much like Marc mixes it up with the clothes.”

Nars instructed his team to bring their entire kits, with every single shade of eye shadow, lipstick and foundation in the NARS line, which turns 15 this year. “We thought carefully about what look and palette was best for each girl,” he said. “So maybe we gave one a stretched eye, another a round eye, and some have super-strong lips, while others have completely nude ones.”

There were some constants in the makeup mosh pit, including NARS Cream Eyeshadow in Zardoz ($21 at narscosmetics.com), a luscious, inky shadow used to create statement eyes, and NARS Loose Powder in Snow ($34 at narscosmetics.com), which gave the girls’ skin a porcelain finish. In addition, the team tested two products being introduced next fall: Sheer Matte Foundation (available in September) and Larger Than Life Volumizing and Lengthening Mascara (in stores in October). You can bet your cat-eyes I’ll be the first one in line for that mascara. Now if I could only fit into my old Sprouse camiflouge mini…

 

[Spike413]

Thanks for that article bordelique.

I think you're saying there was more than one top makeup artist who worked on the show?

I really think what was done here, no repeating models, each one an individual, is quite quite interesting. I hope they're going to say more about it ...

I agree. It's a fantastic change of pace.

I remember in '03 when they did that at YSL, creating different looks for each model. Strangely, instead of distracting from the clothes, I find it makes the visual statement even more impactful.

 

[ched]

Counter to the naysayers, this was our coverage: http://www.modacyclejournal.com/2009/02/marc-jacobs-fall-2009-tale-of-two.html

 

[jordanlines]

i fully support 80s flashbacks in fashion, but this seemed more like a redux (i.e., mj's green members only jacket) than a collection inspired by that decade.

 

[dvbist]

very nice.

 

[fashionista-ta]

i fully support 80s flashbacks in fashion, but this seemed more like a redux (i.e., mj's green members only jacket) than a collection inspired by that decade.

I agree some of it's pretty literal (the jeans, for example), but it's obviously deliberate. Clearly he was very happy in the 80s & good for him I don't feel a great deal of nostalgia for it myself, but I was in a completely different place doing different things and wearing different clothes, so ...

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's like a forward to what I think is going to happen for the next 5 or so years in NYC, a revival of the pioneering electricity that made the City so legendary as it was in the 80s. It's as if Marc is simply saying "this is the fun we had, and this he we did, have a clue all". Not a subtle suggestion and not all lacking in any literal interpretations.

It's great that Marc indulges in his inclinations for the outre and fantastic, it's what's made for some of the most potent and beautiful collections of his recent career. But I went to take a look at the spring collection, to get an idea of what all the fuss on the runway amounted to on the floor. If these clothes carry any of the same sensibility as the current collection in stores now then I suspect Marc Jacobs and the watchful money loving eye at LVMH will have to rely on bag sales and Marc by Marc to get them through this recession. Yet possibly, for that one peculiar women who actually gets this, this collection is more than enough to get her out of the dark times and back to the edge.

 

[thedanae]

Read the NYFW show review here:
http://www.thefashionspot.com/runway-shows/marc-jacobs-fall-winter-2009-1536

 

[deschanel]

sure the 80's thing comes off tacky but if you look at the whole collection from another point of view, you can see that there's soo many stunning seperates that i wouldn't mind having in my warddrobe.

I wholeheartedly agree! While the collection (65 models, someone said!) was a bit overwhelming at first glance, there are quite a few amazing pieces. I personally loved the one-girl-one-look policy, and cannot thank you guys enough for the pictures! There's a few gems in here, even if the naysayers can't see them yet through all the chaos. I the shoes the most.

 

[helmut.newton]

For those who requested it; I made a general sort of time line to illustrate my previous point of some kind of violent change in Marc Jacobs' aesthetic.

Notice his aesthetic at the 'start'. He's maintained that nonchalance until approximately Fall 2007. Up until this point, you could imagine his woman wearing something from each collection and mixing it with past pieces from past collections.

From Fall 2007, this sensibility changes. He ditches the layering, the thrown-togetherness, the easy styling etc etc and introduces his 'new aesthetic'. It's sexier, more deliberate, still melancholic; but theres definitely something different. But maybe thats just my own interpretation!

What do you guys think?

source: style.com

 

[Spike413]

I dunno, while the presentation is radically different for Marc, the actual clothes and where they're coming from in this collection are honestly closer to what he became known for than either F/W 06 or S/S 07.

He made himself famous by reworking vintage pieces, sometimes abstractly but most of the time pretty literally. F/W 03 for instance was extremely literal in it's appropriation of 60s mod design, and imo was no more nonchalant or effortless than F/W 09. Six years down the road I still can't imagine how those pieces would be worn without looking costumey. S/S 03 was just as literal in it's take on late 50s/early 60s fashion, and those clothes were some of the most prissy, pulled-together clothes that Marc has ever done.

I don't think you can really hold this collection up against F/W 06 and S/S 07 because out of the examples you've provided, they're the two that stick out like sore thumbs. They were completely experimental for Marc and along with S/S 09 were the only collections where he managed to successfully blur his references enough that the end result seemed new. The rest of the collections you pointed out just seem so nonchalant because Marc intended for them to. I mean, give the models from F/W 06 dirty, smudgey eye makeup and ratted out hobo hair and it wouldn't look so effortless anymore, it would look like a New York version of Galliano's "homeless" collection. So even though all of those collections seem so effortless, they really weren't any more than this collection is.

I really don't think his aesthetic has changed. The way he packages it is what did.