Marc Jacobs F/W 09.10 New York

[fashionista-ta]

^ It would be quite interesting to see Marc's astrological chart for this time period. I agree there's been a real transformation ... the quirkiness isn't gone from the line, but I suspect that's due to the staff, or the marketing plan or both, not him. It certainly seems to be pretty much gone from the runway. I personally have found it not a bad thing, since as I get older I'm kind of over the MJ quirkiness ... however that is not to say I'm into whatever the new MJ is This collection doesn't offend me, but neither do I want to rush out & buy anything I see here.

At least, though, it's cheerful and not offensively, overtly luxurious. While Carolina has done one of her best collections in recent memory, it seems a bit tone deaf & let them eat cake to me.

It will be interesting to see how this compares to LV, as to me this almost is LV based on what he's done in the past.

 

[tctra]

I'm so sick sick of these designers bringing back these gaudy, god awful styles from the past decades just because they can. 'Look at me, I'm Marc Jacobs, I'm so ahead of the times that I gonna bring back those gaudy 80's power pads, even though they look like **** then and they look like **** now, and y'all will praise me for it" No, sorry, it looks craptastic and you are NOT genius for bringing it back. If anyone has half a mind, they wouldn't buy it and it wouldn't become a trend. The 80's were dead and buried one minute after 11.59pm on Dec 31st 1989 and that is where it should stay.

 

[BerlinRocks]

We're in a recession. So they turn to the decade of excess. Too obvious a comment I feel , unless it's being made in a hubris sort of way.

i don't know if this is the recession .... maybe .... a bit part of it ....
but someone posted a quote like "he spends so much time in paris that he's missing NY and pays an hommage to his early days in NY" ...
i think that may be this .... more than recession ...

and thats what i think too ...
he must be depressed alone in paris ... have no clue of what he's doing here ... i really see him as a depressed person at the moment ... trying to get all the attention he can get ....
and when you are depressed, when the world around you has no more values, no more fun etc. well you just turn back to where you think there were values, fun, etc.

helmut.newton yes ...
everything is going this bad since he went into rehab, had his Paris Hilton moment with his sexual life told on the internet, went to be a gym queen ....
he is a man, he is 40, it's the life crisis ....
nothing more .... he is depressed ...

 

[dior_couture1245]

Somethings changed with Marc Jacob's collections as of late and I put it down to his physical transformation.

Before he got fit and became this outrageously confident and flamboyant personality, his collections had that very Marc Jacobs quirkiness. The awkwardness. The geek factor. It was unique but it wasn't pretentious. It was fashionable but it wasn't forced. It was offbeat but it was strangely alluring.

His girl and his aesthetic have changed drastically in the last 3 years or so. To go from the left to the right in the short span of three years is utterly bewildering to me.

I associated Marc Jacobs with a certain ease and nonchalance. I always imagined a girl/woman like Sofia Coppola wearing his clothing. I also associated his aesthetic with a certain degree of intelligence; a woman seeking to express her creativity by the way of fashion, but again approaching it was a degree of thrown-togetherness.

What disappoints me most about this collection is the forced nature of it all. Theres nothing attractive or interesting about trying hard to look 'unqiue' and those are exactly my sentiments regarding this 80's pastiche.

I totally agree. I think, though, that this collection is the first to really feel this way. Fall/ Winter 2006 is, in my opinion his best collection to date. Spring/ Summer 2007 comes in close second. I think since then things have subtly been going down hill. Fall/ Winter 2007, while intelligent and emotional, wasn't particularly memorable. Spring/ Summer 2008 was a bit too much...it was a fun show, but the clothes just weren't as strong as they should have been to support all the hooplah. Fall/ Winter 2008 was, again, intellectual and interesting, but not particularly memorable.

I would say that Spring/ Summer 2009 came close to his true aesthetic, but this collection is a total letdown. There's no emotion, which is something I always associated with a Marc show...I mean, shows like FW 06 and SS 07 practically bring me to tears. Also, like I mentioned, I feel like very little here has been actually designed. Having seen the Marc Jacobs/ LV documentary, I can say that I have some feel of Marc's creative process...it's wonderfully spontaneous. That documentary was for his SS 07 collections and the work behind the scenes totally payed off...the results were beautiful and delicate and personal. I just can't imagine how all the creativity Marc has, and the creativity of all the people surrounding him, could have come up with such an uncreative collection. Were they twiddling their thumbs for 6 months? It sure seems like it. This collection seriously looks as though they went thrift shopping, watched some 80's music videos, and then just whipped up some sorry reproductions and called it a day.

 

[JunyaSchick]

his own aspect has moved from a nerdy grungy fase (a bit fatty, thick glasses, converse shoes and wool pullovers) a über hypters look (kilt, doc martens, fake tanned skin and more scultured body)...
I think the change in his collections is the reflect of his own change. He has also become a more known person...
Plus, he is a celebrity by himself. threfore, he has included the celeb factor into the idea of the show... to make it more appealing adding some LV marketing strategies like showing his bags collection and other accesories into perfect styled outfits...

 

[karina_zb]

How lacking in innovation. I've come to expect disappointment from Marc Jacobs. Overall this is not a good collection if you ask me. Marc needs to step up his game, because I found it boring DESPITE the shrieking colors.

 

[softgrey]

his own aspect has moved from a nerdy grungy fase (a bit fatty, thick glasses, converse shoes and wool pullovers) a über hypters look (kilt, doc martens, fake tanned skin and more scultured body)...
I think the change in his collections is the reflect of his own change. He has also become a more known person...
Plus, he is a celebrity by himself. threfore, he has included the celeb factor into the idea of the show... to make it more appealing adding some LV marketing strategies like showing his bags collection and other accesories into perfect styled outfits...

what are you on about?...
he didn't ADD bags and accessories
he's been showing bags on the runway for maybe 10 years now!!!...
where have you been...?!?

 

[JunyaSchick]

^but now bags and accesories are on every look! before It wasn't so obvious... I've following him since I got interessted in fashion... (around 9 years now)...

 

[helmut.newton]

I totally agree. I think, though, that this collection is the first to really feel this way. Fall/ Winter 2006 is, in my opinion his best collection to date. Spring/ Summer 2007 comes in close second. I think since then things have subtly been going down hill. Fall/ Winter 2007, while intelligent and emotional, wasn't particularly memorable. Spring/ Summer 2008 was a bit too much...it was a fun show, but the clothes just weren't as strong as th
ey should have been to support all the hooplah. Fall/ Winter 2008 was, again, intellectual and interesting, but not particularly memorable.

I would say that Spring/ Summer 2009 came close to his true aesthetic, but this collection is a total letdown. There's no emotion, which is something I always associated with a Marc show...I mean, shows like FW 06 and SS 07 practically bring me to tears. Also, like I mentioned, I feel like very little here has been actually designed. Having seen the Marc Jacobs/ LV documentary, I can say that I have some feel of Marc's creative process...it's wonderfully spontaneous. That documentary was for his SS 07 collections and the work behind the scenes totally payed off...the results were beautiful and delicate and personal. I just can't imagine how all the creativity Marc has, and the creativity of all the people surrounding him, could have come up with such an uncreative collection. Were they twiddling their thumbs for 6 months? It sure seems like it. This collection seriously looks as though they went thrift shopping, watched some 80's music videos, and then just whipped up some sorry reproductions and called it a day.

Agree 100%

 

[birdofparadise]

I have to say, the color is getting to my head a bit. Watching everyone rush home from work in a melting sea of black, brown, grey ...any hot dash of pink, red or yellow felt right and was welcomed, at least by me. It felt defiant and positive and I think I want to be a bit of a copycat.

 

[thiago:)]

Yes, I agree with dior_couture1245... I was expecting to see something like SS 09. Not an evolution of that collection exactly (because it's not Rodarte ), but an interesting choice of fabrics, patterns and colors.
Even though I liked this collection, I feel like it was inspired in Marc by Marc FW 08. We can see a clear example in Anne Catherine Lacroix's outfit. That skirt was definitely a re-invention of another piece.
Another disappointment: the shoes. If there's one thing that is always good on a Marc show is the shoes. Last season they were brilliant. I don't feel like have to compare this season with the previous one... In addition, they're opposites - SS and FW. But I feel like I have to compare his originality as a designer.

 

[Eshe]

I think overall the collection was good. There were some really nice things but you had to look hard to notice them because there was so much going on. The collection was fun but to me anyone could do what he has done. I can't see many people actually buying this stuff but it will be featured in Ed's alot. Not his best by far but it is alright.

 

[mackos]

Sorry Marc, not this time, it all looks like a more civilised version of Betsey Johnson to me. But well, we all have bad days, don´t we?

 

[plasticky]

I've trying to understand better this collection and I'm more and more in love with it... even considering that my style actually is sth so much more Balmain/Givenchy and a bit of Miu Miu, I love how Marc changed everything ans proposed sth totally different.
I love the bright colours, especially how he showed (less prints and more shapes, silhouette) and it's worth to look at the first looks, they're absolutely glam and have a lot of fashion tricks!

Well, can't wait to see LV!

 

[birdofparadise]

His girl and his aesthetic have changed drastically in the last 3 years or so. To go from the left to the right in the short span of three years is utterly bewildering to me.

please do not quote images. thank you.
style.com

What's even more interesting is that both of those looks were indeed inspired by Stephen Sprouse ... Though I am horrified at even remotely admitting it, the more I'm seeing the show and learning about Sprouse, the more I'm liking it.

 

[Mota3089]

Let the Insults begin!

 

[stylehog]

I was too young in the 80's to fully appreciate the over the top fashion, so I am happy that Marc has given me a chance to enjoy it this time around. I loved all the references to other designers. I saw an interview with him that he was really inspired by the city of New York, (no doubt feeding off his Stephen Sprouse collection for LV) and how it's really about the city that doesn't exist anymore. I think it is an optimistic collection, especially considering the current cultural climate.

 

[lmelanie]

this isnt s/s 07 or f/w 06 thats for sure..i feel like he has just gone down in the past 3 years..

 

[La bordélique]

I'm much more attracted to the makeup than the clothes. Who styled this show?

 

[coldlunch]

I like the cardi with the cutout/zipper detail so you can insert your scarf in to keep it from flying, The coats with the sleeves that have pointy detail that reminds me of the sleeves he did for Louis Vuitton a few season's back, but they are fun . Some of the prints are fun like the modified baroque prints.....very cute. the colors and the shapes are fun and unique.