This is really their best collection so far, but that's not saying a lot, is it? I have no problems with any techniques, cutting, splicing, etc., but this effort comes across as stiff and forced, like cardboard, probably the result of the designer designing with stylized sketches and the drawings are then interpreted into 3-D tailoring by the partner. In a skilled designer like Mugler, and more recently, Ricardo Tisci, both processes exist seamlessly in the mind, and Mugler is a master of materials - the result is shapely, sculptural, smooth, clever and natural.
I procured a few vintage Mugler pieces, most of them simple and they are all amazing in their hallmark Mugler cut (I hear there are also hideous commercial pieces out there..) - no other designers could deliver such close to the body clothes with such ease and intelligence. I haven't come across another designer like Mugler. Mugler is a genius this way, a master of 3-D imagination, not just for these ostentatious curves, cutouts and flamboyant shapes.