Prada S/S 2021 Milan

[RaisinBoy]

My SA asked me what I thought about it and I actually lost it and went on a rant and he said he's gonna tell his manager my feedback LOL I am dead. Am I Prada's Karen

Let's face it, most of the collection won't make it to the stores. They'll produce the bags, a few parkas for their shops in Milan and other big cities, and the skirts, which are the only redeeming pieces here. I suppose they'll keep on doing what they did with women's pre-fall this year: reissue archival clothes. That way, they'll have something to offer to their clientele.

 

[Cory333]

Have been through a few reviews and all of them are raging positive. Is that common that no one’s critical?

 

[Reggie63]

Have been through a few reviews and all of them are raging positive. Is that common that no one’s critical?

Very common that it's the rule. For two main reasons: (1) none of these publications/media outlets would dare criticize a major advertiser, lest they find their ad revenue significantly altered and (2) Emperor's New Clothes phenomenon. For the longest time, people were so afraid of voicing criticism against a Prada collection, for fear of being labelled as not getting an intellectual collection. The Prada collections of yore had so many layers of references and ideas amidst new and often odd interpretations of fashion that it took time to digest it. That's why Prada gained that reputation. Now, it's just wanting. It's all gimmicks, recycled design flourishes and styling. Devoid and bereft of any real intellectual discourse and beauty.

Speaking of reviews, I have to say, I found that some of them were hilarious. I can just imagine the contortions writers had to do to create a good spin for this collection. Either that or they're blind or lacking in taste. My favorite so far, courtesy of WWD: using old and highly recognizable Prada references were key since Raf is working with and not replacing Miuccia Prada. Oh, and the logos enforce a critical idea: the logos were there to assert that this collection, even though it was designed with a co-creative director, is still Prada.

Gimme a break.

 

[donyan]

Oh, and the logos enforce a critical idea: the logos were there to assert that this collection, even though it was designed with a co-creative director, is still Prada.

LOLZ

 

[jeanclaude]

Very common that it's the rule. For two main reasons: (1) none of these publications/media outlets would dare criticize a major advertiser, lest they find their ad revenue significantly altered and (2) Emperor's New Clothes phenomenon. For the longest time, people were so afraid of voicing criticism against a Prada collection, for fear of being labelled as not getting an intellectual collection. The Prada collections of yore had so many layers of references and ideas amidst new and often odd interpretations of fashion that it took time to digest it. That's why Prada gained that reputation. Now, it's just wanting. It's all gimmicks, recycled design flourishes and styling. Devoid and bereft of any real intellectual discourse and beauty.

Speaking of reviews, I have to say, I found that some of them were hilarious. I can just imagine the contortions writers had to do to create a good spin for this collection. Either that or they're blind or lacking in taste. My favorite so far, courtesy of WWD: using old and highly recognizable Prada references were key since Raf is working with and not replacing Miuccia Prada. Oh, and the logos enforce a critical idea: the logos were there to assert that this collection, even though it was designed with a co-creative director, is still Prada.

Gimme a break.

The journalists are more creative writting than Simons designing! Miuccia should have hired those journalists instead!

 

[Cory333]

Very common that it's the rule. For two main reasons: (1) none of these publications/media outlets would dare criticize a major advertiser, lest they find their ad revenue significantly altered and (2) Emperor's New Clothes phenomenon. For the longest time, people were so afraid of voicing criticism against a Prada collection, for fear of being labelled as not getting an intellectual collection. The Prada collections of yore had so many layers of references and ideas amidst new and often odd interpretations of fashion that it took time to digest it. That's why Prada gained that reputation. Now, it's just wanting. It's all gimmicks, recycled design flourishes and styling. Devoid and bereft of any real intellectual discourse and beauty.

Speaking of reviews, I have to say, I found that some of them were hilarious. I can just imagine the contortions writers had to do to create a good spin for this collection. Either that or they're blind or lacking in taste. My favorite so far, courtesy of WWD: using old and highly recognizable Prada references were key since Raf is working with and not replacing Miuccia Prada. Oh, and the logos enforce a critical idea: the logos were there to assert that this collection, even though it was designed with a co-creative director, is still Prada.

Gimme a break.

So is there a place where one can read more qualified, not interest-motivated reflections?

 

[Reggie63]

So is there a place where one can read more qualified, not interest-motivated reflections?

For this new collection, I haven’t read something that takes the conversation forward in an honest way. So far, what I’ve read is all sycophantic drivel. They always say that the collection was a success, it was harmonious, coherent, trailblazing and oh so relevant, without really explaining why. We’re just supposed to take their pronouncements at face value.

For an informed discussion, I usually enjoy discussions by Stephen Jones and Mimma Viglezio, although these are for past seasons. Their videos are usually not critiques but rather discourses - their conversations (by way of Showstudio in YT) can be quite enlightening since both work in the industry and have historical fashion knowledge so they comment intelligently. Although I have to say Mimma has Emperor New Clothes syndrome but raises some interesting points at times. And honestly, I love going to this forum - people here are refreshingly honest and enlightening.

I’m sure there are more out there; I’m hardly an exhaustive source. I just wanted to share something that gave me some unbiased and interesting perspective on Prada collections. Perhaps others here would have sources.

 

[jeanclaude]

So is there a place where one can read more qualified, not interest-motivated reflections?

If you wanna honest reviews, you are in the right place here!

 

[Vitamine W]

The pseudo intellectual discourse hanging around Prada collections must be some black satire from another dimension, Im sure of it. Especially when Raf entered the building, the engineers running this simulation must have peed their pants watching our reaction. The Belgian Brand Slayer will strike again and we will witness it all in slow motion. Also the discussion with Raf and Miucca after the show was a highlight in performance art. It left me exasperated craving trash tv and empty calories.

 

[bc collector]

For an informed discussion, I usually enjoy discussions by Stephen Jones and Mimma Viglezio, although these are for past seasons.

I kind of enjoyed them too, although their comments were far from being critical...but at least they knew what they were talking about.
Mimma Viglezio also led another series of interviews called ShowBiz, with people like Anne Chapelle, that are usually quite press shy...needless to say, being informed and with huge experience in the field, Viglezio no longer collaborates with Showstudio, that lately has become the playing field for Nick Knight's son and his vapid pals.

On the subject of criticism towards Prada, over the years I have come to realise that journalists, even the best ones, react with a sort of Pavlovian applause at Miuccia's every little gesture. Same applies to Raf.
It's curious that the one time I recall some major critics, like Cathy Horyn and Robin Givhan, panning a Prada collection was for AW07, that in hindsight registers as one of Miuccia's best ever. Only to see now la Horyn write that the Prada-Simons debut "set the bar high"...(in laziness, maybe).

 

[Reggie63]

I kind of enjoyed them too, although their comments were far from being critical...but at least they knew what they were talking about.
Mimma Viglezio also led another series of interviews called ShowBiz, with people like Anne Chapelle, that are usually quite press shy...needless to say, being informed and with huge experience in the field, Viglezio no longer collaborates with Showstudio, that lately has become the playing field for Nick Knight's son and his vapid pals.

On the subject of criticism towards Prada, over the years I have come to realise that journalists, even the best ones, react with a sort of Pavlovian applause at Miuccia's every little gesture. Same applies to Raf.
It's curious that the one time I recall some major critics, like Cathy Horyn and Robin Givhan, panning a Prada collection was for AW07, that in hindsight registers as one of Miuccia's best ever. Only to see now la Horyn write that the Prada-Simons debut "set the bar high"...(in laziness, maybe).

They're not critical at all, but yeah, at least they know what they're saying and their knowledge gives some depth to the discussion. Actually, when Mimma stopped with Showstudio, I didn't really bother with the channel anymore. The more recent speakers are so uninformed that their commentary is an egregious waste of time. I could learn more from 5 minutes of googling compared to 30 minutes of their mindless, ineloquent ramblings. LOL at NK's son et al!

I have to say, Horyn's review eluded me, and now that I've read it I can't shake this observation.

Kathy's review: "A question hovering over the fashion industry for months is whether by bring Raf Simons on as co-creative director, Miuccia Prada could advance the story of Prada...The quick answer to the question is yes: Prada and Simons, in their debut today, did advance the story."

Vanessa Friedman's review (NYT) : "Would the combined force of two of the greatest fashion minds of this particular period...be greater than the sum of their parts? Or would it be an unmitigated disaster; a clash of egos and ideas that could sink them both?...So did it? A qualified yes....they did, pragmatically and with great deal of grace and forethought, lay the groundwork for a path forward."

Bridget Foley's review (WWD) : "The message thus delivered: Simons’ role is not to dissemble the remarkable Prada iconography, but to expand and advance it."

It is, of course, just a funny coincidence, but wouldn't it be hilarious if these journalists were just working from a template review the Prada PR team sent over?

Oh, from the glorious highs of AW07 to the unfathomable depths of the present. What a contrast.

 

[jeanclaude]

It is, of course, just a funny coincidence, but wouldn't it be hilarious if these journalists were just working from a template review the Prada PR team sent over?

I´d say that smells like a press release dressed like a review to me!

They have no choice but keep kissing Simons and Miuccia a.s.s.e.s...either that or getting the sack from their jobs if they dare to say the truth: this collection is pure s.h.i.t.

 

[Cory333]

I´d say that smells like a press release dressed like a review to me!

They have no choice but keep kissing Simons and Miuccia a.s.s.e.s...either that or getting the sack from their jobs if they dare to say the truth: this collection is pure s.h.i.t.

I promise you that press releases are the norm here (some friends in journalism). Every magazine has their "frame". What is good, what is bad, what we advocate for - then find your topic in that frame. Journalists who are critical or confrontative (even with good reason) towards a specific company, risk getting blacklisted, excluded and withheld information from.

 

[jeanclaude]

I promise you that press releases are the norm here (some friends in journalism). Every magazine has their "frame". What is good, what is bad, what we advocate for - then find your topic in that frame. Journalists who are critical or confrontative (even with good reason) towards a specific company, risk getting blacklisted, excluded and withheld information from.

Yes, that´s how marketing works: lies, lies; and more lies!! Like a sect, brainwashing included!

 

[Lola701]

You know what? I don’t think people necessarly have a fear to criticize Prada. The mystique build around the brand has a lot to it. There’s this myth that if you don’t get Prada now, it will make sense later and I think people goes into with that in mind... Add to that the fake intellectual part...

In reality, fashion is just part of life and to be relevant in fashion, you just need to capture the zeitgeist. Miuccia created the modern codes of what a working woman could aspire to as a wardrobe of armor to face the world.

Prada, at it peak spoke to a very specific idea of woman and really evolved into something maybe more elusive. I remember how Nicolas said that Prada was for him the perfect mix of Art and commerce, something Virginie Mouzat described as « intellectualisme de masse » which in substance is very edgy references, mixed to create a very valuable commercial product with enough creativity to be potent!

I feel like overtime, Prada lost it mystique and just became a luxury brand. When you wore Celine by Philo, you felt like you wore a brand designed for you and your lifestyle. The bags were recognizable but discreet enough to be worn in a professional environment without judgement. The fashion was inventive enough to be both classic and edgy.

What was interesting about the discussion between Raf and Miuccia was the uniform section. When Miuccia said that her uniform at the moment was a blue sweater and cotton skirt, I asked myself why she didn’t build a collection around that. It’s an easy look, chic, terribly Prada that in her hand can turn into something potent and forward thinking. With people working from home, life taking a slow return to « new normal », that’s the kind of « solution » women (and men maybe) can turn to!

I wanted to wear her look because it’s both comfortable to work from home and elevated to go out. We are wearing masks, it’s inconvenient but it has a safety mission. We don’t need complicated concept and logos. People are loosing their jobs, we don’t need to go to our work places with a huge logo in the middle of our blouse...

 

[Cory333]

People are loosing their jobs, we don’t need to go to our work places with a huge logo in the middle of our blouse...

Great insight. Especially this part really resonated with me. I work in an environment where even if a lot of people can afford (and they do buy them) these products, it would be tone deaf to wear huge logo splashed items. Thankfully they don't.

 

[FelipeV]

I'm afraid they're going to take the Hypebeast Road, centennials are coming and that's their 'jam'

 

[90sFan]

Have been through a few reviews and all of them are raging positive. Is that common that no one’s critical?

Seems very common!
The collection sucks. And everyone is afraid to say it. BUT once one reviewer says it, they'll ALL follow that journalist as it will be OK to trash it, which is deserved in this outing. Sheep... Meeeeeeehhh
LOLS

 

[90sFan]

Have been through a few reviews and all of them are raging positive. Is that common that no one’s critical?

Just watch them - when on elf them decides it's finally Ok to say the truth and review her shows accordingly, they'll all start trashing her lol
SHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEPPPPPP

 

[Lola701]

Today I saw in the streets of Paris a woman with a full look (the top was from look4 with the big dots and she had a black pant) with pink crocs and grey socks underneath. It just looked sweaty and vulgar.

This collection looks terrible IRL tbh.