Prada : What Went Wrong?

[reese06]

Net A Porter has carried Prada for quite a few seasons now. I'm not sure how well it did because now it looks like leftovers and mainly eyewear on the site.

They carried quite a bit of the main runway pieces that you would see in ads and marketing when they had a full line of products.

 

[Reggie63]

I have been a Prada fan since the late nineties and like many of you, have followed the brand, through its seemingly unstoppable greatness from the 90s up to early 2010 to its frankly appalling phase from that period up to now. For the longest time, I’ve had so many thoughts about this brand but I don’t have that many fashion-minded friends that could/would handle everything I want to say. It’s amazing that most of what I thought or felt was discussed in this thread, and I felt a bit disappointed to have discovered the forum just now.

I’ll try not to repeat any of what has been said, but I guess what I wanted to unpack now with everyone is Miuccia’s last solo outing. Miuccia said that her collection was about the pleasure of making meaningful clothes. “…to create beautiful, intelligent clothes. This season, we focused on that idea: It is about giving value to pieces. The clothes are simple, but with the concept of simplicity as an antidote to useless complication.”

At this point, I feel everything she says about her clothes is just so the Emperor’s New Clothes. Most of the looks are just plain clothing done in black nylon and emblazoned with the Prada logo. The clothes are simple, yes, but are we to accept these logoed basics as beautiful and intelligent? Could we really consider these as vehicles upon which people can give their own value and meaning onto given that for a lot of people buying these clothes, the logos are what gives these clothes their value and meaning? Are they really going to gloss over the fact that their brand just experienced high sales growth in APAC with the current hypebeast/Linea Rossa collection, even with a ~20% Covid19-period increase in prices, and maybe all of this logoed craziness is just to pander to this high growth client base? I understand why this hypebeast hullaballoo exists – to me, it’s just highly disappointing that Miuccia decided to “define the essence of Prada” with such lazily designed logoed clothes.

This latest collection made me take stock of what drove the brand’s critical creative output up to the Minimal Baroque collection – basically, the golden period. I read an interview somewhere that in addition to tackling something she hates (lace, brown, etc.), she and her team take such care to develop and be inspired by fabric. The fabrics and the design we saw in FW 1998, FW 2004, FW 2007, FW 2008, SS 2009 (to name a few) were just so breathtaking in its shapes and novelty – I think it’s this high level of intellectual design that made us so enamored with the brand for so long and made it a force to be reckoned with. In my opinion, the embroidered looks of FW 2007 are some of the best in fashion history. Now, I don’t see any of this type of design work. Contrast this to the cartoon aesthetic (as pointed out by dior_couture1245)/prints paired with logoed clothes in plain fabrics shown from 2016 onwards, I just don’t see how Prada could ever return to that fashion leader position that it once had.

Then again, bc collector raised such an important point. What’s the expansion limit for a company focused on creating new concepts and a high level of taste? IMO, there’s a very clear limit – so unfortunately, I don’t see how Prada could ever shake off this cartoon/triangle/red tag mania given growth targets and shareholder expectations. The question now is how would Raf Simons, who fell in love and resonates with Prada for its intellectual design, fare with this business model. Going by his previous output, I think he would be so unhappy with the realities he would have to contend with and be bound by. Not to mention the inevitable blows with Bertelli that he’d have with every decision that he makes as co-CD. I just don’t see how a long-term collaboration could exist.

Silly thought: Raf put the Kardashians in a major Calvin Klein campaign. What would you think of a Prada ad campaign fronted the entire Klan? Or given that the video documenting Charli D’Amelio’s Prada invite for the FW 2020 show has 1.7M views in Prada’s YT channel (a Prada show video has about 1M views, for comparison), what would you think of a campaign fronted by Tiktok royalty (I’m assuming this exists)?

Sorry for the long post and if you made it this far, thanks for indulging my ramblings. I would really love your thoughts on Miuccia’s last solo collection, Raf’s influence moving forward and whether Prada could still become relevant given the latest direction we’ve been seeing from the brand.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^I do not think Prada will be able to recapture it’s prestige and mystique again. If they do, it will take Herculean effort and probably a decade.

The problem is they have been so unreliable for so long. A huge part of Prada’s original success was Miuccia’s consistency...every season was strong and directional. Now it’s flop after flop...then a twinkle of potential, and then another flop. I don’t trust her anymore.

That’s why I believe it will take a long, long time for Prada to rebuild. We have to see consistency again. I’m going to have to see amazing collections for the next 5 years straight for me to believe in this brand again.

And that recovery is unlikely. And Raf will probably cause more problems. He is not a solution.

 

[Reggie63]

I agree with you on the fact that it will take a Herculean effort - I think the only way that it could regain relevance is for Prada to delist from the HKSE. I think this will never happen but it's the only way that Miuccia could do what she wants in terms of creative output without the constant need to please stockholders. Just don't know what to say - it's just sad that we won't see that brilliance ever again.

On another note, speaking of past Prada seasons being strong and directional, I loved how some Prada collections were so distinct in its seasonal message that you can say one or two words and you'd know which collection it was. Crystals. Minimal Baroque. Wrinkled Grecian. Those were the days.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I never thought Prada would give me such feelings of dread and despair. Just thinking about SS 2009 as you mentioned, the cuts and fabrics have so much character. It felt like a strong and authentic point of view. I don't know who is behind this new direction, but Miuccia PRADA, the one who actually made me think and feel about clothes, producing something like SS 2021 is really solidifying my nightmare that straight up crude consumerism has taken over. Past the point of no return. Don't get me wrong lol, fashion itself even during Prada's golden years was a big part of the problem with consumerism. But the intellectual creative outlet that was Prada being sucked into the unstoppable mindless label/logo wearing zombie apocalypse hurts my SOUL I don't want to close this chapter on Prada but I fear it is over forever

 

[Reggie63]

I never thought Prada would give me such feelings of dread and despair. Just thinking about SS 2009 as you mentioned, the cuts and fabrics have so much character. It felt like a strong and authentic point of view. I don't know who is behind this new direction, but Miuccia PRADA, the one who actually made me think and feel about clothes, producing something like SS 2021 is really solidifying my nightmare that straight up crude consumerism has taken over. Past the point of no return. Don't get me wrong lol, fashion itself even during Prada's golden years was a big part of the problem with consumerism. But the intellectual creative outlet that was Prada being sucked into the unstoppable mindless label/logo wearing zombie apocalypse hurts my SOUL I don't want to close this chapter on Prada but I fear it is over forever

I'm so glad to have found this forum because this is EXACTLY WHAT I FEEL! I feel this sense of soul-wrenching despair in the view of what we lost and what the brand has become. I feel like I am in mourning for a friend that passed away. And I didn't have anyone to talk to about it! For me, it was FW 1998. When I first saw the collection I felt that it spoke to me on such a profound level. The fabrics, texture blocking, and modernity that Prada communicated through its narrative and brand imagery has made me an ardent devotee ever since. Miuccia Prada taught me and made me love high design just like she did for you. That's why, rightly or wrongly, I feel betrayed by her with these egregiously commercial and banal seasons. Devoid of any message worth listening to, of any design worth taking note of. Ugh, those damned tacky logoed clothes! There have been glimmers of hope (FW 2015) and I don't want to end my love for Miuccia but yes, I think our fear is warranted. I guess at this point the only thing we can do is just hope for these glimmers to happen from time to time.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I'm so glad to have found this forum because this is EXACTLY WHAT I FEEL! I feel this sense of soul-wrenching despair in the view of what we lost and what the brand has become. I feel like I am in mourning for a friend that passed away. And I didn't have anyone to talk to about it! For me, it was FW 1998. When I first saw the collection I felt that it spoke to me on such a profound level. The fabrics, texture blocking, and modernity that Prada communicated through its narrative and brand imagery has made me an ardent devotee ever since. Miuccia Prada taught me and made me love high design just like she did for you. That's why, rightly or wrongly, I feel betrayed by her with these egregiously commercial and banal seasons. Devoid of any message worth listening to, of any design worth taking note of. Ugh, those damned tacky logoed clothes! There have been glimmers of hope (FW 2015) and I don't want to end my love for Miuccia but yes, I think our fear is warranted. I guess at this point the only thing we can do is just hope for these glimmers to happen from time to time.

I totally feel you on this. I come from a background where none of my friends give a sh*t about this lol. It actually feels like the death of a friend or something when you connect on such a deep level with their art that ceases to exist. I agree there have been some glimmers of hope in the more recent past, but I guess in an effort to avoid more disappointment, the best way to move forward is to just not anticipate anything great in the future of Prada.

Sidenote, it is actually really interesting, and also sucks, that this forum has such a different view than what is presented in the media. I was watching the showstudio panel on milan SS 2021 menswear and the praising of Prada's new collection made me CRINGE so hard. These people chosen as "critics" are just yes yes yes people. Do any of them actually think for themselves? Or are we the ones just stuck living in the past? I really cannot tell anymore. But I have a feeling these new people in fashion are just there, whether it be consciously or unconsciously, to be a part of the "scene" for their own ego. Fashion has always had social climbers, but a massive army has been formed to contribute NOTHING but blind loyalty to the growth of companies pockets for a faux sense of self worth in return.

 

[Lola701]

@Reggie63 i feel like you shouldn’t give up on Prada but maybe you should not have any expectations anymore...
Tbh, I look at Prada like I look on so many brands right now.

While I’m quite curious to see what Raf might do with Miuccia, for me, the simple fact that he was hired is a admission of weakness. There’s nothing visionary about it...Look at someone like Donatella. She always had « help » but she believed in young talents, creativity (before bowing for nostalgia).

It’s known here that Karl was my favorite designer. In his career, he never compromised his vision. He had maybe too much ego to give up, but he was clever enough to grab talents before they became big. I feel sad that in order to reclaim a fashion authority, Miuccia has to join forces with Raf.

The issues at Prada has been there for years. The last collection I was really in love with was SS18. I like when Miuccia does « superfocused-one fabric » oriented collections. I remember back then when I bought some pieces at the store, complaining to the staff for the lack of the collection being actually on display and available. And don’t get me wrong, I loved the black nylon from FW15.

I feel like that last solo collection is the result of the business winning against the creativity. There was a time when Prada had « the shoe », « the print », « the look » of the season. Now, they are selling Linea Rossa, Logo stuff, Sportswear...
The people who wants the real allure of Prada have to go for archive stuff. They are still producing the Wingtip from 2011 and it’s still more relevant than what they are putting on the runway.

It’s funny, I’m in my mid 30´s and while I worked young in the industry and started wearing Prada young, I feel like I’m at the time when the brand is supposed to speak to me more than ever...And it doesn’t.

 

[Reggie63]

I totally feel you on this. I come from a background where none of my friends give a sh*t about this lol. It actually feels like the death of a friend or something when you connect on such a deep level with their art that ceases to exist. I agree there have been some glimmers of hope in the more recent past, but I guess in an effort to avoid more disappointment, the best way to move forward is to just not anticipate anything great in the future of Prada.

Sidenote, it is actually really interesting, and also sucks, that this forum has such a different view than what is presented in the media. I was watching the showstudio panel on milan SS 2021 menswear and the praising of Prada's new collection made me CRINGE so hard. These people chosen as "critics" are just yes yes yes people. Do any of them actually think for themselves? Or are we the ones just stuck living in the past? I really cannot tell anymore. But I have a feeling these new people in fashion are just there, whether it be consciously or unconsciously, to be a part of the "scene" for their own ego. Fashion has always had social climbers, but a massive army has been formed to contribute NOTHING but blind loyalty to the growth of companies pockets for a faux sense of self worth in return.

It's so depressing - it's really like death of a friend. Or a friend destroying one's life through addiction -except we can't hold an intervention! If only we could! Hope for the best and discuss on TFS - I think that's as solid a plan as any moving forward.

Funny you should mention this since I was thinking exactly the same thing. The Showstudio panel for Milan SS 2021 was just not worth tuning into. I mean, they're fashion vloggers/IGers - not that anything's wrong with that, none at all, it's just that these people are so concerned with creating credibility that they wouldn't dare say they did not like Prada. People are still stuck thinking that not liking a Prada collection means you just don't get it. And these people just say "oh I love the collection, the nylon, the shapes, the white shirts, reminds me of Prada's 90s minimalism". That's it?!!? If these people just have any idea how high Miuccia elevated minimalism in the 90s, they wouldn't say this. Emperor's New Clothes.

To be fair, I did learn a lot from some of the Showstudio videos - specifically whenever Stephen Jones and Mimma Viglezio talk in them. But when Mimma praised the FW 2019 collection, I started to doubt her commentary and felt like she's just a part of that army you mentioned. It was funny when she flipped her lid when a dress down the runway and she proclaimed "it's extraordinary, what we're seeing! It's so good!". One of the panelist who I guess didn't like it (kudos to him) dared ask "what do you see in it?". Mimma just said "oh, that's a hard question". Oh Mimma. The other fashion panelists then just said "I don't think you can quantify why you get excited about a show." Riiiiiight. She eventually said that it was so new, fresh, an appliqué treatment we haven't seen before. Hmmm, I guess, maybe, but the flower appliqué idea is drowned out by the cartoonish prints that for me. It could have been a good taking off point that could have been explored, refined and curated but instead was drowned in a sea of commercial IG-fodder lunacy. Or I don't know, maybe I just don't see or get it. I couldn't tell anymore either.

 

[helmutnotdead]

This thread is getting a little bit depressing lol

I’ve just watched the video of that girl invited to their last runway show. I haven’t felt that embarrassed in years. The things they have to do to sell a stupid handbag.
Miuccia we love you. You were great. We still have wonderful memories about what you did. You made us wanted to look forward. You’re disgustingly rich now. Why you can’t enjoy a good life and take a really well deserved rest?

Now I understand and even dare to say how smart were those ones who retired -helmut, Martin, Consuelo, Jil, Ann, etc- and those who worked under their own rules -Azzedine-. We suffered about those decisions but at the end of the day they are our heroes because they’re not part of this painful circus. Sadly, it’s too late for Miuccia.

 

[Reggie63]

@Reggie63 i feel like you shouldn’t give up on Prada but maybe you should not have any expectations anymore...
Tbh, I look at Prada like I look on so many brands right now.

While I’m quite curious to see what Raf might do with Miuccia, for me, the simple fact that he was hired is a admission of weakness. There’s nothing visionary about it...Look at someone like Donatella. She always had « help » but she believed in young talents, creativity (before bowing for nostalgia).

It’s known here that Karl was my favorite designer. In his career, he never compromised his vision. He had maybe too much ego to give up, but he was clever enough to grab talents before they became big. I feel sad that in order to reclaim a fashion authority, Miuccia has to join forces with Raf.

The issues at Prada has been there for years. The last collection I was really in love with was SS18. I like when Miuccia does « superfocused-one fabric » oriented collections. I remember back then when I bought some pieces at the store, complaining to the staff for the lack of the collection being actually on display and available. And don’t get me wrong, I loved the black nylon from FW15.

I feel like that last solo collection is the result of the business winning against the creativity. There was a time when Prada had « the shoe », « the print », « the look » of the season. Now, they are selling Linea Rossa, Logo stuff, Sportswear...
The people who wants the real allure of Prada have to go for archive stuff. They are still producing the Wingtip from 2011 and it’s still more relevant than what they are putting on the runway.

It’s funny, I’m in my mid 30´s and while I worked young in the industry and started wearing Prada young, I feel like I’m at the time when the brand is supposed to speak to me more than ever...And it doesn’t.

Agree - the old adage of hope but don't expect holds here.

When Prada announced that Raf was joining as co-CD, I wasn't really happy. I agree - it felt like Miuccia just threw in the towel. More Prada pandering to hypebeasts. I didn't really get why the fashion world who praised Miuccia loved the union. It's like saying "oh thank god, finally, someone new." I feel though Raf's contribution would be more street prints a la RS x Sterling Ruby to generate hype rather than the ethereal beauty we saw in his Jil Sander swan song. Funny how the rest of the fashion world is expecting the latter. But whatever the case, the critics would still praise it rather than saying anything contrary and be accused of not getting it.

I unfortunately don't live in a place where the Prada store stocks clothing. I remember being so excited when I get to Prada Aoyama for the first time during FW 2015! I was expecting to see a significant number of looks to be available! When I got there, I just saw two men's pieces from the runway collection. Just two! The rest are the black/navy/grey standard issue Prada clothing. I'd understand if this was a normal boutique but this is an epicentre! I just ended up with some standard issue Prada clothing. The store, especially the changing rooms, is awesome though.

I suppose that's why I still hold out on Prada producing an amazing collection because I feel an incredible sense of having missed out on a lot of looks that I loved when the collections came out. I missed out on the incredible SS 2011 because the absolutely crap buyer in my city didn't even get the creepers! Even the selection in Hong Kong was really limited! In fact, my Prada store didn't even get any of the creepers for the whole time it was being produced!

I super agree on the 2011 wingtip creepers being more relevant than anything they're currently producing right now. For me, that shoe is Miuccia at her best. I remember everyone was confused when it came out the runway, saying it was so ugly, then after a day, everybody went nuts for it. It's Miuccia's power to take something that's ugly and redefine it to make it utterly beautiful. Thankfully, after a brief hiatus, the wingtips are back in production.

I have a modest Prada collection because of limited access and availability. Now that all this crap is being produced, I feel like my options are becoming slimmer. Thankfully, Prada still does pieces that speak of its archival past. A great cut suit made in a fantastic fabric. Logo-less shirts with blind stitch collars. Texture and color-blocked pieces. Men's made to measure. The narrative of Prada now doesn't resonate with us but thankfully Prada is still making some pieces that allow us to celebrate its glorious past that we connected with. It's better than nothing, I suppose.

 

[helmutnotdead]

^
You made me remember something really important about my feelings on Prada. She literally had that power to make something extremely ugly or weird and turned it into something really powerful and desirable. I used to really hate the collections but after one month or more...damn, I was just nuts about the clothes.
Nowadays her collections makes absolutely nothing to me. Not the day of the show. Not a month after. Not even now.

 

[Reggie63]

This thread is getting a little bit depressing lol

I’ve just watched the video of that girl invited to their last runway show. I haven’t felt that embarrassed in years. The things they have to do to sell a stupid handbag.
Miuccia we love you. You were great. We still have wonderful memories about what you did. You made us wanted to look forward. You’re disgustingly rich now. Why you can’t enjoy a good life and take a really well deserved rest?

Now I understand and even dare to say how smart were those ones who retired -helmut, Martin, Consuelo, Jil, Ann, etc- and those who worked under their own rules -Azzedine-. We suffered about those decisions but at the end of the day they are our heroes because they’re not part of this painful circus. Sadly, it’s too late for Miuccia.

Yikes, I'm sorry to have brought on this pity party! I guess we need to get to the stage of depression before we get to the final stage of acceptance.

That video was a cringe fest - a dagger to the heart of a real Prada devotee. I yearn for the time of Jil, Helmut, the greats. At least we still have some of the old guard still burning the light amidst all this darkness. We must cherish Dries (Lacroix! sadly just for one season), Theyskens, Alber (hopefully soon!), Hussein for still showing us beauty.

 

[Reggie63]

^
You made me remember something really important about my feelings on Prada. She literally had that power to make something extremely ugly or weird and turned it into something really powerful and desirable. I used to really hate the collections but after one month or more...damn, I was just nuts about the clothes.
Nowadays her collections makes absolutely nothing to me. Not the day of the show. Not a month after. Not even now.

She really deserves all this love because of that power! A lot of the best past seasons were a bit too much to handle at first viewing but after some time, in an instant, you're enamored by it's sheer beauty. The Lace collection comes to mind. At first it makes you go "Huh?" but after some time, you're just enthralled - it's really just amazing.

That's why I go through the newer collections with a fine comb to make sure I understand all of it. But even after years have passed, absolutely nothing.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Agree - the old adage of hope but don't expect holds here.

When Prada announced that Raf was joining as co-CD, I wasn't really happy. I agree - it felt like Miuccia just threw in the towel. More Prada pandering to hypebeasts. I didn't really get why the fashion world who praised Miuccia loved the union. It's like saying "oh thank god, finally, someone new." I feel though Raf's contribution would be more street prints a la RS x Sterling Ruby to generate hype rather than the ethereal beauty we saw in his Jil Sander swan song. Funny how the rest of the fashion world is expecting the latter. But whatever the case, the critics would still praise it rather than saying anything contrary and be accused of not getting it.

I unfortunately don't live in a place where the Prada store stocks clothing. I remember being so excited when I get to Prada Aoyama for the first time during FW 2015! I was expecting to see a significant number of looks to be available! When I got there, I just saw two men's pieces from the runway collection. Just two! The rest are the black/navy/grey standard issue Prada clothing. I'd understand if this was a normal boutique but this is an epicentre! I just ended up with some standard issue Prada clothing. The store, especially the changing rooms, is awesome though.

I suppose that's why I still hold out on Prada producing an amazing collection because I feel an incredible sense of having missed out on a lot of looks that I loved when the collections came out. I missed out on the incredible SS 2011 because the absolutely crap buyer in my city didn't even get the creepers! Even the selection in Hong Kong was really limited! In fact, my Prada store didn't even get any of the creepers for the whole time it was being produced!

I super agree on the 2011 wingtip creepers being more relevant than anything they're currently producing right now. For me, that shoe is Miuccia at her best. I remember everyone was confused when it came out the runway, saying it was so ugly, then after a day, everybody went nuts for it. It's Miuccia's power to take something that's ugly and redefine it to make it utterly beautiful. Thankfully, after a brief hiatus, the wingtips are back in production.

I have a modest Prada collection because of limited access and availability. Now that all this crap is being produced, I feel like my options are becoming slimmer. Thankfully, Prada still does pieces that speak of its archival past. A great cut suit made in a fantastic fabric. Logo-less shirts with blind stitch collars. Texture and color-blocked pieces. Men's made to measure. The narrative of Prada now doesn't resonate with us but thankfully Prada is still making some pieces that allow us to celebrate its glorious past that we connected with. It's better than nothing, I suppose.

Story of my life. I missed out on most of all earlier prada collections bc they never actually had any runway clothes in stores or just not in my size. Now I'm friends with an SA that just texts me full spreadsheets of new collections to order in whatever size I want, but there is nothing desirable anymore. HOWEVER, they do keep leftover pieces from past collections in a warehouse so you can buy some things you've missed, but none are ever in my size

 

[Reggie63]

Story of my life. I missed out on most of all earlier prada collections bc they never actually had any runway clothes in stores or just not in my size. Now I'm friends with an SA that just texts me full spreadsheets of new collections to order in whatever size I want, but there is nothing desirable anymore. HOWEVER, they do keep leftover pieces from past collections in a warehouse so you can buy some things you've missed, but none are ever in my size

OMG, they keep past collections in a warehouse?!?! That's awesome! I thought they go to the outlets. This goes for most stores?

For me, it's always the colorway that I want that's not available. I remember the boatneck tops were just available in a color I didn't want and creepers version that I wanted from SS 2011 weren't produced. But somehow, some people got their hands on them. Apparently, the samples from the runway just ended up for some clients in their Aoyama Epicentre. And sample shoe sizes are a men's 9 - not my size. That runway version never got produced.

However, when I visited a boutique in Europe, they offered me the ability to make special orders! I was shocked because when I asked about this in other boutiques, I got the impression that they only offer this to VIPs, so I was refused. Of course requests have to be approved, but isn't just that fabulous? Drawback is, I'd have to travel to get them and with Covid, this has to be put on hold. Oh well.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

OMG, they keep past collections in a warehouse?!?! That's awesome! I thought they go to the outlets. This goes for most stores?

For me, it's always the colorway that I want that's not available. I remember the boatneck tops were just available in a color I didn't want and creepers version that I wanted from SS 2011 weren't produced. But somehow, some people got their hands on them. Apparently, the samples from the runway just ended up for some clients in their Aoyama Epicentre. And sample shoe sizes are a men's 9 - not my size. That runway version never got produced.

However, when I visited a boutique in Europe, they offered me the ability to make special orders! I was shocked because when I asked about this in other boutiques, I got the impression that they only offer this to VIPs, so I was refused. Of course requests have to be approved, but isn't just that fabulous? Drawback is, I'd have to travel to get them and with Covid, this has to be put on hold. Oh well.

They may go to the outlets too, but my SA said all the clothes that aren't sold are put in their warehouse. I was asking my SA about a men's leopard print calf hair coat from FW 2006, and they had one but it was two sizes too small .

Also to the special orders, its really cool like sometimes if they have leftover fabric from past seasons they can make you a new garment. My SA asked on my behalf to order one of those men's coats with the persian lamb collar from FW 2012, but all the fabric was gone and they stopped using fur.

I know it's the way fashion works, but it really is about who you know or if you by chance run into a kind SA. Otherwise, people are assholes on purpose. There are countless times I've been told by brands like Margiela, for example, "thats not going into production" only to see it on other people later. I got lucky with my SA at Prada because he is so nice and willing to help with whatever I need.

 

[Reggie63]

They may go to the outlets too, but my SA said all the clothes that aren't sold are put in their warehouse. I was asking my SA about a men's leopard print calf hair coat from FW 2006, and they had one but it was two sizes too small .

Also to the special orders, its really cool like sometimes if they have leftover fabric from past seasons they can make you a new garment. My SA asked on my behalf to order one of those men's coats with the persian lamb collar from FW 2012, but all the fabric was gone and they stopped using fur.

I know it's the way fashion works, but it really is about who you know or if you by chance run into a kind SA. Otherwise, people are assholes on purpose. There are countless times I've been told by brands like Margiela, for example, "thats not going into production" only to see it on other people later. I got lucky with my SA at Prada because he is so nice and willing to help with whatever I need.

This is highly encouraging news. I didn't even know that they will do archival looks. This gives me hope for that boatneck top from SS 2011. As far as I know, that top used the same fabric that they currently use for the signature men's shirts, so fabric wise, there wouldn't be problems.

Also, I've been eyeing this jumper from last season (not runway, it's quite plain) but in the US, they only had the bigger sizes and it was only available in the Aspen boutique. Asia never carried it. I'll see if I can ask if they can do a warehouse search for that when I get to Europe.

It's hard to make a good relationship with an SA when my Prada boutique barely gets anything of note. I suppose I'll try to cement a great relationship with that SA who offered me special orders when everything goes back to normal. Thank you for all the great tips!

 

[Reggie63]

I guess we can update the thread to include this: Raf is what went wrong with Prada.

 

[RaisinBoy]

As someone pointed out in this thread earlier, the demise of Prada the brand is like losing a friend.

You see, we all fell in love with Prada because, ultimately, the clothes were an intimate insight into one woman's mind. Even in menswear, you wore her ideas and her ideals of beauty. Prada was a strange, unprecedented mixture of the bourgeoise, the intellectual, the frivol, and the fashion-forward. And then, of course, there was the development of materials that added to the complexity to each piece.

And I'm really sad that this kind of Prada is dead. To me, a European customer who wants a sophisticated, yet exciting wardrobe, Prada simply doesn't offer anything anymore, sans a few basic pieces (which are still perfect, however.)

In all honesty, I don't know what happened a few years ago. First, I think we should admit that Pavesi was ultimately the creative brain of the brand, bringing Miuccia's ideas to reality.

Second, let's face it, Miuccia and Bertelli love money. By the late 2000s, Prada was already a huge corporation, and they wanted to grow even more, so the diluted the brand's DNA to create more logoed products for the 500+ stores worldwide, including every provincial city in China. That was a mistake. If they had stayed smaller, more exclusive, focused on the mature customer, Prada would retain their customer base and would now reemerge as one of the most relevant brands while having a decade of authenticity behind them.

Third, S/S 2011 happened. Since then, almost all collections were a desperate attempt to emulate the huge media and commercial success. But S/S 2011 happened in a very defined time, right in the middle of a worldwide crisis, and it was the relief the world needed back then. I still think the F/W 2019 Frankenstein collection is the worst one she has ever produced, comparable maybe only to F/W 2018. But let's face it: Gucci et al. have that Prada banana collection on every mood board. Arguably, no other collection in recent history was such a trailblazing success. Even Metro, a free newspaper here in Central Europe, dedicated an article to the platform brogues back then.

Put it all together, bring in GenZ, Instagram, and Jeff Goldblum in the Fire-Island-short shorts, and S/S 2021 is just the disaster we all should have expected.

The question now is: What brands can substitute Prada's place? I am asking out of practicality because as a man who loves fashion and dressing up, there aren't many exciting things happening on my radar at the moment.