Riccardo Tisci - Designer

He is a past tense just like what Michele is at Valentino. He did not care to reinvent himself to suit the brand he worked for (Burberry) to the point that he can’t even utilize his celebrity association to push the brand to a level that he was paid for. The last time I read about a celebrity wearing his design was Nikki’s wardrobe malfunction on Met Gala red carpet. From that point, none of his friends wears his design to my knowledge. If his strong influence among the celebrities has faded, he got no appeal to the HR’s in today’s market.
If he wants to show that he is seriously considering his position in fashion, he should at least dress some ppl to signal to the fashion world that he is serious and capable. A Zara collab like what Stefano did would be a good start.
 
I was a very big fan of Riccardo and his Givenchy, but I had to google "Riccardo Tisci Burberry" because I couldn't remember absolutely anything.
I don’t know about you, but after seeing 10 check-print outfits in a collection, I lose interest in analyzing the rest.


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Still, I revisited his Givenchy collections and truly relived some beautiful memories :wub:
 
I know I've posted this before, but I'll post it again. This will always be my favorite couture show of his, and definitely one of my favorite couture shows of all time. The way the fabric moves on the floor-length gowns kind of makes me moist.

This show was 15 years ago. Assuming he returns to another high-fashion label, would he still be able to recapture this same magic? I would certainly hope so, but who knows?

 
This show was 15 years ago. Assuming he returns to another high-fashion label, would he still be able to recapture this same magic? I would certainly hope so, but who knows?
Certainly not but we shouldn’t expect it anyway. People who loves the essence of his work will enjoy what he has to propose. The others won’t be satisfied.

His Burberry was good for me. Confused in it vision (bourgeois or streetwear?) but good. That collection that was recorded during the pandemic with the almost beige wardrobe where models had Bambi ears was great. I remember a Prefall lookbook where models were people from the team or staff. The clothes were good.

What I hated with Riccardo were his gimmicks like the bejeweled make-up, the Bambi earrings. When he was about the clothes like his last show, it was great.


Regarding his time at Givenchy, while I fell in love with him with the FW2007 RTW, I think the Couture collections from 2009 were a masterpiece. It was at that time that he dethroned Dior HC and was the highlight of HC with Chanel.
 
why does almost everyone here have a problem with facial jewellery? it's quite common in several far eastern cultures, including those that riccardo depicted in that show (e.g. bedouin, moroccan, etc.). i don't see how its a "gimmick"... hair and makeup both help to establish the mise-en-scène lol
 
^^
Riccardo breakthrough came before the Kardashian. Come on…
He was a star in fashion, through his work before the validation of celebrities…Celebrities he was one of the few first to embrace in reality.
Olivier had the support of Madonna when she was still an influence in culture and it didn’t necessary matter when it was time for him to make better choices in his career.

Two very different designers and circumstances. If Riccardo didn’t have MariaCarla and Carine by his side, his career would have been totally different.

Without a doubt Riccardo’s namebrand is namedropped by the casual fashion fan and even with the layman— because of his association with pop culture: Madonna, Kanye, Kardashians, those insipid graphic tees that came to define his seasonal collections in his final Givenchy days… There are people that still namedrop him as the current designer of Givenchy. And that’s an issue I have with him in his later Givenchy days: His celebrity status and ego had become more of a driving force than his talent. And he is talented; those that came up in the late-90s had to be talented (…except perhaps for Stella, who had the built-in status of the McCartney name and Phoebe as her secret lethal weapon…). Even his Burberry, as low-effort as it may be for what he’s really capable of, was still solid once the obnoxious layers of merch was scrapped away.

I loathe the cult of the "celebrity designer”, because by that point, it’s not about dressmaking and tailoring any longer: It’s all about his ego. I’m not sure if that’s how Riccardo sees himself, but his level of effort definitely was headed in that trajectory in his later days. The loyalty/nostalgia for Riccardo is understandable— because that Couture showing eugenius posted remains a potent vision I watch often even now. But he seems to have left his best years way way way behind him now.

(…This thread was started 20 years ago… Good to see some TFS loyals from way back then still posting when this thread started […and I’m sure baby Mullet was terrorizing the forum even back then].)
 
all these new fashion girlies sds, maximilliano, mcqueen guy, bruno sialleli, all need to get out of their studios and get a life. Whether good or bad, they need more life experiences to find themselves as designers. Then maybe they could start creating shows with personalities.
if only it was so easy to gain a personality to have a vision by getting a life and be out and about......i think it starts with much earlier with curiosity and hunger for knowing things and being obsessed with details and creating,nothing will help these mediocre brains to become geniuses of their industry.

i think we should have peace with that and champion real talent new and old.
 
Speaking of his couture work w/ Givenchy, I'll always have a soft spot for the last few seasons, where he only showed a small handful of eveningwear in a presentation format. Cate, of course, looked sensational on the red carpet.

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Love Riccardo. After Nicolas, he's one of my personal greats. His menswear inspired me so much.

Would love to see him at Balenciaga. He is the king of chic+street and that's what the brand needs now.
 
His work at Givenchy really strikes the right balance between commercial/streetwear and high fashion. Fall 2013 is the perfect example. The whole Bambi thing is very gimmicky, but I remember you can buy the opening look with a plain sweatshirt. That small changes instantly reads classic and directional without being dated to a certain time. I wish I had money back then so I could order the whole look (probably would have done the Bambi one though, don't hate me Lola lol).
 
why does almost everyone here have a problem with facial jewellery? it's quite common in several far eastern cultures, including those that riccardo depicted in that show (e.g. bedouin, moroccan, etc.). i don't see how its a "gimmick"... hair and makeup both help to establish the mise-en-scène lol
I loved them for the FW2015. It’s just that everytime he did them after, it felt like a gimmick because the collections were of lower quality. So what was the added value became suddenly a focus, almost a distraction.
 
^^^ Towards the end of his Givenchy tenure, his once fresh takes on design and styling became gimmicky distractions. But that’s the unfortunate trappings of designers that become the equivalent of designer popstars. HIs ME/Indian/North African flourishes in styling were exquisite. His signature septum rings were at once opulent and menacing (…nevermind that he likely borrowed the looks from 90s Gaultier and Galliano). It’s also just unfortunate that the septum ring has been coopted as the signature of the most entitled “activists” in these times. So what was once a rich cultural statement that's elevated to high style by someone like Riccardo, has now become a fashion trope associated with obnoxious Western trash.

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What is facial jewelries to tisci is what big sets are for lagerfeld. They all need a go-to when burn-out hits.

What is good is that even if Tisci has been long in the industry, we have really only seen him at givenchy and the transition from givenchy to burberry was way too short to renew his language. The outerwear could have been promising had he stayed longer but as we all know he was probably limited since Burberry is nowhere near a couture house where he really shines.

Hopefully he has had a new spark after all his travels.
 
What is facial jewelries to tisci is what big sets are for lagerfeld. They all need a go-to when burn-out hits.
Really?
When I attended the shows, for me it put the clothes into a certain type of context and I find it fun and cheesy. Because the fashion proposition was directional.

When I talk about face Jewelry, I’m not talking about the examples @Phuel showed because the collections were directional.

I’m talking about something like this, from Burberry FW2022
 

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