I feel there are so many efforts to wake up “recent” brands and none of them is working… Jil Sander is investing like crazy in their revamp, opening retail stores everywhere, Cavalli the same… Tom Ford, Mugler, Helmut Lang, Alaïa… do these brand really have a future in RTW after their founders?
I don’t know, to me it’s like trying to revamp Montana or Romeo Gigli. Makes no sense to me.
Tom Ford and Alaïa are a bit different though. Those are brands build on luxury and with a fairly strong identity that have been commercially viable for years.
Alaïa has been doing very good since 2007, Tom Ford as a whole brand is a powerhouse even if the success is build on menswear and the reputation of a designer in womenswear.
Cavalli has been struggling for a decade now. Mugler tbh, has been struggling since the late 90’s. Helmut Lang has been a mess for almost 20 years.
The reality is that the luxury brands of today have to come from somewhere. Alaïa and Tom Ford are fairly recent brands. If we think about the brands birthed in the 80’s, Dolce & Gabbana, Alaïa and Margiela are so far the only surviving forces.
A lot of brands from the 70’s are in life support.
But it’s also a question of investment: Alaïa and Tom Ford were willing to spend cash on talents!
Cavalli, Helmut Lang and all are going for the third wheel.
Tbh, I didn’t expect Valentino to survive the way it did. And without the Qataris investments, it would have never been possible.
As Karl said: you have to throw money by the window for it to comeback through the door.
lamo
