Rodarte F/W 10.11 New York

[Zazie]

Same old Etsy bits of this scarf fabric and bits of that decorative bit from the haberdasher's "artistically" twisted and tacked on mannequin form based on a mood-board-with-some-esoteric-pseudo-romantic-poetry-snapshots themed collection. And everyone goes "GENIUS!" What a surprise. Rinse and repeat ad nausea for 10 more seasons.

And um... apologies in advance to any great Etsy artisans out there!

 

[mackos]

As much as I'm not a Rodarte fan and don't really get their phenomenon, it's nice to see them moving on, slowly, but still. I would like them to stop the crisscross draping for some time, it may be their trademark but it's so tiring to see it literally every season.

I like the inspiration and the story behind this collection, though, plus adore the white dresses in the finale. They're so ethereal, beautiful.

 

[mikeijames]

These clothes lack real craft and technique and are being communicated as couture-like, whereas (to me) they actually come across as pretty decorative (unpurposeful) deconstruction. The girls don't live up to their hype whereas someone like Sophia Kokosalaki - a designer who after so many years of proving her craft and integrity of vision - is still largely unappreciated by the press... Why is that? I can only guess that it has to do with the fact that Rodarte's style sticks out in New York and is eing supported by the right people. It certainly has nothing to do though with a particular gift that other designers are lacking (even in New York).

first, take issue with the fashion industry's treatement of sophia kokosalaki NOT rodarte. second, people correlate these clothes with the couture NOT because of the specific techniques employed but because of the LEVEL of workmanship and the obvious handiwork these designers put into these garments. it's not LIKE these clothes are done by hand -- but actually sewed in some factory somewhere -- they ARE done by hand and people can *FEEL* that coming through in the clothes. it's a labor of love. that's what communicates through these clothes and connects to the women who buy them.

 

[afashionado]

mikeijames, Wow, i didnt know who that was before u told me. Actually i love her stuff. Pretty nice. And I definitely agree with you that she needs a lot more credit as there is the involvement of high level of workmanship and the use of technologies. Now I cant wait to see her Fall collection. lol thanx.

 

[masquerade]

I am a little fed up with them. At first i loved this collection, thought it was beautiful, but the more i looked at it, the more i felt like i have seen it all before. They are very one note. the one note is beautiful, but they are kinda stuck. I can't wait for them to move on, but right now, i feel like i can go to the fabric store, buy some random clothes, wrap myself up like a mummy, and look like this collection.

 

[deschanel]

Let's face it, they had me at light-up shoes. Despite the provocative colour palette, I was intimidated upon first glance. But when you get down to the nitty-gritty with detail shots and hi-res images, you can see a lot of great ideas competing for attention. In some cases the excess works, like the final dresses, while others practically jarred me out of my seat. I think overall I like what's been done, but perhaps they could have held back in instances where they clearly said "more, more, more." I guess they got what they were going for with the whole hazy, haunted, sleeping-or-waking motif. I immediately thought of Peter Pan, this is totally what the Lost Girls would wear.

 

[mikeijames]

I am a little fed up with them. At first i loved this collection, thought it was beautiful, but the more i looked at it, the more i felt like i have seen it all before. They are very one note. the one note is beautiful, but they are kinda stuck....

yeah, they've been doing this ribbon embellishing shift dress idea for several seasons, and the super volume skirt thing for several seasons, and the cobweb sweater thing for several seasons, and the destroyed leather thing for several seasons, and the over the knee boot thing for several seasons, and the cut out dress/legging thing for several seasons. my point: they've hit a lot of notes over the years. can you point to one collection of there's where they've cut a skirt like this? or sewed a pant like this? if you don't like it: just say it. but let's not say they're "one note" when clearly they aren't.

style.com

 

[stars&satellites]

This thread is so fun to read.

People will always love or hate Rodarte. But fashion, like art, is best when it causes the viewers to open a discussion about it.

I love it, it's not about the wearablity, but about the storyline that the collection tells and the whole aesthetic about their designs. Can't explain it, but I'm on the "Love Rodarte" team.

 

[Caffeine]

first, take issue with the fashion industry's treatement of sophia kokosalaki NOT rodarte. second, people correlate these clothes with the couture NOT because of the specific techniques employed but because of the LEVEL of workmanship and the obvious handiwork these designers put into these garments. it's not LIKE these clothes are done by hand -- but actually sewed in some factory somewhere -- they ARE done by hand and people can *FEEL* that coming through in the clothes. it's a labor of love. that's what communicates through these clothes and connects to the women who buy them.

In that case, they are pretty good craftsmen, but not solid designers. Kokosalaki is at a totally different level.

 

[Caffeine]

I think what hurts the most to people who don't like Rodarte's aesthetic is the wearability, technique and price-tag factor to their clothes. These girls are beyond that and that's why they caught people's attention in the already conventional American fashion scene. They are very capable of doing gorgeous gowns like Natalie Portman's dress in the 2009 Oscars, but they choose not to do the safe way and show us every season a journey to this fantasy world they have created. Every show, while might not have the best techniques of construction but at the same time we have to remember that most of this clothes are handmade, are really inmerse in this emotional atmosphere that really sets them apart from other designers.

It's just not another commercial showcase of what you should wear next season, that might be the example of Herve Leger. It's beyond that. Very few people are capable of creating a fashion show. One perfect example of this is Alexander McQueen, though he added couture-like techniques, but this girls are growing and what they lack of construction, they have it in emotional creativity and that's why they are like a rush of fresh air in the New York scene.

The lack of construction says it all. How could one be called a "designer" without the ability of providing solid construction? Show me a solid jacket... it's simple eh? why don't they make one?

 

[Escale Cherie II]

I don't think it's terrible, but I'm far from loving it. Some of the draping and outfits are very very nice, but most of it seems to be too detailed and overdone with random fabrics and colors mashed together Still, they are very talented women, and this collection has done nothing to change my opinion of that

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I am really not a fan of Rodarte.
I just don't understand how wearing a junction of loft insulation and a burst bird relates to real life? Why would anyone want to wear it?
I think I may have liked one dress and one jacket, though the latter may be because it actually looked like a piece of clothing and not the contents of a scrap bin.
A friend of mine said they loved it and it was "very different" to what they usually do.. How is this different from anything they've done in the past? It's exactly the same mixtures of clashing fabrics only this time they've used floral and polka-dot...
At the end when the clothes were luminescent I thought that might be a feature and I was really to be impressed at the innovation.. but then I saw it was just because they were white and clothes of people in the audience were also glowing.

 

[loladonna]

This is simply beautiful!

nitrolicious

 

[mikeijames]

In that case, they are pretty good craftsmen, but not solid designers. Kokosalaki is at a totally different level.

The lack of construction says it all. How could one be called a "designer" without the ability of providing solid construction? Show me a solid jacket... it's simple eh? why don't they make one?

do you think miuccia prada could design a well cut jacket to save her life? she has people around her to execute her vision. in time, these girls will as well. it does not take away from the profundity of their vision and the appeal of their work. we would need to start an entirely different thread for sophia kokosalaki. some of us have been tooting her horn for many years in this forum....

 

[WilhelmF]

Why does it have to be wearable to be acceptable? Don't you understand they are not trying to make it wearable, instead they're choosing to show us magic?

It's funny how one business is harshly criticized for not choosing the normal route other designers go for in NY. It's not about how will a person wear this, it's about the character they're showing us in every show and if they were doing so bad, they wouldn't continue to doing this every season.

 

[Marnieg]

This show is just perfectly beautiful!

 

[2Nova]

Man I feel like I am the only one who loved this... I dont know I think it's starting to evolve more and more and this collection made me quite happy!

 

[Forwardmotionis]

I Love Love Love this collection!

The Mexican influences are perfect, and the lace is both fitting and interesting.

I of course love the heels!

 

[decadentdiamond]

At first, I only liked the last few, white dresses, but it's really starting to grow on me!

 

[decadentdiamond]

Images from post #159 are from StyleSight.com