Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[PDFSD]

Really?? It’s kinda embarrasing for Gucci and Kering imo to change after so little time. Anyone have an update on the leaving rumors?

It’s embarrasing on how much hype they’ve tried to create around him…

The dancing i dont care but i agree that he should present himself more professional….

In the end CD have a big *ss kissers that distance themselves from reality bc they only constantly hear “you are great”

The lack of pov and the lack of definition of this Gucci man and woman and of course the lack of interesting products make it all very mediocre something that Gucci and Kering cannot afford.

Let’s see what happens cause Sds is very limited and unclear.

Last thing i got was that he is now working on main collections as he sees its performing better than his show collection 🤡....goes to show how disorganized it is over there ...like how can you hire someone to overhaul a brand and main collections are a after thought of interest !!!!????

At Least the new Valentino started already with a cruise collection drop to start filling the stores asap with the new direction, similar what Hedi did when starting at Saint Laurent second round .. Kering has a blueprint to how things could or should work ...why leave it up to the discretion of a new CD mood is beyond me.

Honestly i am bored with hearing about that Ancora guy when out with friends and the incompetence of the stewardship of that brand in total and the constant lackluster output.

 

[Xone]

Last thing i got was that he is now working on main collections as he sees its performing better than his show collection 🤡....goes to show how disorganized it is over there ...like how can you hire someone to overhaul a brand and main collections are a after thought of interest !!!!????

At Least the new Valentino started already with a cruise collection drop to start filling the stores asap with the new direction, similar what Hedi did when starting at Saint Laurent second round .. Kering has a blueprint to how things could or should work ...why leave it up to the discretion of a new CD mood is beyond me.

Honestly i am bored with hearing about that Ancora guy when out with friends and the incompetence of the stewardship of that brand in total and the constant lackluster output.

So when you say main collection means the commercial adaptation of the runway collections? Maybe i don’t understand but it wasn’t his job too to oversee those collections?

Well, that way he is secure at Gucci then…

 

[Thefrenchy]

No he left just got the info this morning long time disagreement as i understood he was hired from CK with the idea to oversee all image shootings and CID , while Sabato came with his own guy Riccardo Zanola that is doing now all the main fashion ADV, so there was a split in fashion creativity and the commercial part (Cedric) like Ecom and smaller drops campaign you see online and CID overall.

Apparently they now have report and explain every step to Stefano Cantino and with lots of budgets cuts going on, so he had enough.

Heard the exact same.

 

[LadyJunon]

Last thing i got was that he is now working on main collections as he sees its performing better than his show collection 🤡....goes to show how disorganized it is over there ...like how can you hire someone to overhaul a brand and main collections are a after thought of interest !!!!????

Wait, I thought the runway collections were the main collections. That said, I think that a good reason why they're more successful is because the press isn't slapping them with apathetic reviews.

At least the new Valentino started already with a cruise collection drop to start filling the stores asap with the new direction, similar what Hedi did when starting at Saint Laurent second round .. Kering has a blueprint to how things could or should work ...why leave it up to the discretion of a new CD mood is beyond me.

I think that this is mostly because they're trying to move PPP's collections to the outlets as quickly as possible. The collection arrives in October, a month after the Fall runway season.

 

[Creative]

Yesterday I passed by a Gucci store and didn’t hate what they had in the windows… I also saw a GG belt in silver on someone and didn’t want to puke like crazy. Shall I go to the doctor? Might I be lobotomized due to the amount of Gucci ads my eyes see during the day? Are they implementing neuroscience techniques in his ads? Am I actually me?

 

[PDFSD]

Wait, I thought the runway collections were the main collections. That said, I think that a good reason why they're more successful is because the press isn't slapping them with apathetic reviews.

I think that this is mostly because they're trying to move PPP's collections to the outlets as quickly as possible. The collection arrives in October, a month after the Fall runway season.

Runway collection´s are a drop in the ocean compared to the main collections that fill the store like Dior and LV, its two separate teams that design 1 show and pre /cruise and 1 main usually at these big houses this is at Gucci since last 3/2 years as well as well.
New Show collection with novelty items are less than 10 percent of offer if i remember well (the numbers are out there) depends also on brand.
Of course main collection take inspiration from the CD direction but often CD´s are less hands on when things are doing well.

Than you have a vip/red carpet team that design teams for womens and mens sometimes its cross over the teams with main or show as well and than kids and home decor are other separate teams , but Hermes its a bit more unusual as Hardy does shoes but also High jewelry this is unique in most cases not common.

Normally things from the shows collection become best sellers and became part of main collection mixed in with classics and novelty items as adaptations of best sellers form main.by sides special collection like CNY , Ramadan and capsules etc ect that fall under main team at LV these drops are many and clairly take indications from show but often have more a life of their own.

Its interesting the perception of a show versus actual products that are in stores and for who these different level clients these cater or speak too.

This is also the big divide with dior and at Chanel VV did clothes on runway that are actual clothes most clients buy into where Kl did the more show directional route.

One thing that does help sell commercial clothes is having them on the Runway and in AD´s as well it boost there appeals as special pieces while on shop floor it's a realistic item clients can ealsy wear for daily life., this practice is abused i have to say by management and merch directors to push for this to happen more and more. the more trouble a brand is facing the less power a CD might have as well to push against it if he or she wish to be more directional with the show collections.

 

[PDFSD]

So when you say main collection means the commercial adaptation of the runway collections? Maybe i don’t understand but it wasn’t his job too to oversee those collections?

Well, that way he is secure at Gucci then…

Commercial adaptations of the show collection are part of show collection drop in store is not main collection, some places do a post show edit collection that supports the show or some design while working on the show collections additional items , each brand has a twist on it but its the show collection drop which include on runway seen items and version not seen but part of the same collection.

Some shows collections are extreme and need commercialization more than normal for the show collection drop in stores, some show collection like Celine are already perfectly merchandised in the show runway that just additional items are already designed to compliment the drop.

Show collection are last to arrive in season and also shorter time to sell so therefore often are kept to a small scale of items and numbers, than again not for all brands same deal.

 

[Kimihiro]

Is there anything to dilute more from Ancora to warrant a separate commercial collection? Serious question.

 

[Xone]

Commercial adaptations of the show collection are part of show collection drop in store is not main collection, some places do a post show edit collection that supports the show or some design while working on the show collections additional items , each brand has a twist on it but its the show collection drop which include on runway seen items and version not seen but part of the same collection.

Some shows collections are extreme and need commercialization more than normal for the show collection drop in stores, some show collection like Celine are already perfectly merchandised in the show runway that just additional items are already designed to compliment the drop.

Show collection are last to arrive in season and also shorter time to sell so therefore often are kept to a small scale of items and numbers, than again not for all brands same deal.

Thank you for Clarify…

Let’s see what happen on the upcoming weeks…

 

[PDFSD]

Is there anything to dilute more from Ancora to warrant a separate commercial collection? Serious question.

:-) I get your remark but on a practical note: the commercial collection is there regardless of his creative level output ...high fashion brands now need new drops like Zara every month basically......also commercial development can be like : just make it in black or with out loud prints or in logo print ....but the cut /design of items is from the show... 10 billion Euro/dollar you dont do with show collections you need volume drivers you can produce endlessly with small variations that dont hold up production.

per example:

https://www.gucci.com/us/en/ca/men/ready-to-wear-for-men-c-men-readytowear/1

https://www.gucci.com/us/en/ca/men/ready-to-wear-for-men-c-men-readytowear/3

Just scroll down down you see how much of old Alessandro Gucci is still present and used for selling, it's shocking!!!!! its endless logo stuff and his remaining best sellers, some updated, most items are like the past!!!

If the new Gucci dont produce new best sellers they will keep relying on old ones, their should have been a bigger effort to harmonize /modernize actual commercial product offer ....since Ancora guy is a commercial designer and worked on pre collection at Valentino as well (allegedly) i understood this should have been part of his priority in first year instead of a documentary lol

 

[Xone]

I saw the 20min documentary yesterday and honestly i dont’t think it makes him looks good at all. It showed his dancing (apparently he does it all the time), but everything was reduced at something “fun” even his explanation of the collection was so vague and shallow that you can tell there is something off.

More ridiculous look his entourage trying to elevate him at god-level….someone mentioned that his approach on that first collection was creating the accessories first and then the clothes to go along with.

The documentary also is not well done but that’s another story.

Overall, really that doc wasn’t neccesary to show him like the rock-star designer that he is not and of course its not an intellectual approach but it shows lack of commiment and a very superfluos point of view.