Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[LadyJunon]

its on his instagram

Tisci for Chanel would be fire. I hope they choose him.

 

[tourbillions]

i love how his work is always so expensive and reeks of bourgeois but at the same time anyone can imagine themselves looking good in them.

if lv got ghesquire, i think chanel should have tisci.

 

[Creative]

I can’t imagine him at Chanel. I think he is ok for an Italian brand but can’t picture him at Dior or Chanel.

 

[blueorchid]

maybe tiscis priority is chanel? he recently directed a photoshoot with chanel as the front cover. it was screaming "hire me".

I'm still loving interpreting almost everything other designers do lately as stealth auditions for Chanel, even though the likelihood of that is probably slim. I'll be sad when Chanel actually appoints someone, I think.

 

[Creative]

For me it’s the toughest decision ever in the history of fashion. If it’s not Hedi (which for me would make the most sense, even if it could be boring and even if I have many question marks around it), and Bruno practically said it won’t be him, I don’t know who could it be. I just can’t picture a famous designer at the helm of Chanel, it’s like it’s too sacred of a brand to let anyone be there and have that position.

I wish it’s somebody from inside.

 

[justpassingthrough]

The Ancora Guy™️ is so lackluster his own thread here has converted to the “Who Should be the Creative Director of Chanel” discussion thread

 

[Kimihiro]

Body’s not cold nor dead yet but we’re already stomping. After Ancora there’s nothing else to do though.

I wouldn’t want to work with Kering right now. They might implode anytime and they aren’t know to have graceful exits with their talents. The pressure is ten fold than when Michele left. It’s not stagnant, things are falling off the cliff. At this point only the most capable talents should do it and I wouldn’t say not to Riccardo. He’s for Italia.

Dark, sleek Gucci will work for me, but it’s hard to be a fashion brand with their targets. I agree that the whole range needs a rework and can we retire the brown/green/red combo a bit.

 

[Creative]

To me it’s crazy that execs at that level thought Gucci should be a basic Zara for rich people. It kind of was that when Frida was there, but there was something that could appeal to basic women and the brand was not beyond BURNT.

If your brand is burnt, there’s no desirability around it and you start doing very basic staff, how can you attract potential customers? If there’s literally no dream, no specific image… how can customers relate, want to be part of the brand or even understand what Gucci is? Me, I don’t even know what it is at this point. Is it the Daria campaign or is it the one in the pool with teenagers and neon sneakers?

It’s a very good example of a terribly managed brand where greediness and incompetence resulted in a huge catastrophe.

Also, it’s crazy they were considering PPP. He is not bad, but I don’t think he would be able to successfully manage Gucci. He couldn’t even do so in Valentino and sales were very hard to materialize.

They are clueless.

 

[Creative]

Also, a brand that is aiming to elevate the image, to become a destination for classic leather goods, to move towards a richer and more classy clientele… they have the nerve of hiring Bad Bunny and Kendall and do a campaign in the airport in yoga pants and Gucci logoed suitcases… They are not consistent with their castings, they want to appeal to everybody, they get the hottest stars at the moment instead of classic people, they dress them in a ridiculous way with loafers and white socks, a super old trend that’s been in the streets for more than months… even years.

Poor Sabato is a trainwreck. The execs are a trainwreck. Sabato has no clue of how to be a CD. Execs are so desperate that they could try anything.

What a cheap environment to work for.

 

[Creative]

Sorry for multi posting, but you guys need to go to the website, go to woman and die of uglyness. The first 10 products are full of the monogram, they have the ugliest T-shirt with 6 logos, loafers full of logos… how can they elevate the brand like that? Who en Earth could feel attracted by those products? They are beyoooooooooooooond cheap. The product selection is desperate. You need to check it out. Omg.

 

[NoInvite]

gucci.com

This is the first product you see on the website.
A bag that shows the plastic cord inside the handle that costs 3500USD.
It is so unpolished and cheap. Gosh Gucci, I don't blame the numbers at all.

 

[Creative]

Yeah, the construction feels super cheap as well as the leather. Look at the edges, it’s kind of bumpy.

The GG earrings… ⚰️

And that jacket… who wants to wear that in 2024. It’s beyond my mind.

 

[Creative]

Gucci.com

The T-shirts… and go to RTW, 90% of it is with the monogram.

What a nightmare!!!!!

With those products the shock would be if they manage to sell them…

 

[PDFSD]

I am 90% sure Riccardo Tisci have been asked and declined. But ofc that was 20 months ago so now ?

I have opposite intel on this as the CEO then said internally to not want or looking for a person that does not respect work life balance and has nasty approach to teams because the rumour was then that riccardo was coming ...at various brands studio teams and hr know how Riccardo works the guy has a party substance reputation that interferes with normal day to day working conditions,... people sleeping in office till he is ready to proceed is not the worst thing i got to know from one friend that left working with him.....

 

[Creative]

^I also doubt someone as used to a luxurious life as Riccardo and so obsessed with being relevant and cool, would decline a multimillion euro contract from one of the top 5 fashion brands in the world.

If he accepted Burberry… even if we know they pay extremely well, Gucci could offer the same or more. And Gucci has more “fashion” to it. You can convert Gucci into a hot brand but Burberry… I don’t know. I would never accept Burberry as a designer or as a manager. Gucci, with the right conditions, why not.

Edit: I also think he would like to prove himself and not be remembered by his ugly tenure at Burberry… at a real fashion brand he could gain the reputation and the halo back.

 

[tourbillions]

I have opposite intel on this as the CEO then said internally to not want or looking for a person that does not respect work life balance and has nasty approach to teams because the rumour was then that riccardo was coming ...at various brands studio teams and hr know how Riccardo works the guy has a party substance reputation that interferes with normal day to day working conditions,... people sleeping in office till he is ready to proceed is not the worst thing i got to know from one friend that left working with him.....

unfortunately if they want a top creative person... they always come with as much cons as pros. Otherwise they will always be left with middle of the ground designer who they will pray somehoe makes 1 hit in their lifetime or atleast to flatline sales.

 

[PDFSD]

Yeah I don’t think we should view things in terms of « creative prime » anymore. We should view things in terms of challenge, aesthetic and capacity to lead.

That’s why it’s so important for a brand to have strong codes, staples that are there forever and that makes the whole thing interesting.

I don’t think Chanel by Karl would have been that great if Chanel wasn’t that restrictive in a way. Yes, ultimately, Karl made it his own, totally changed it to what it was (even down to his color palette which in the 2010’s was restricted to black, white, navy and baby colors) but there was a frame.

I think that Gucci has to be totally rethinked.

For me, when you are a talent like Riccardo, there’s nothing you can’t do. But you have to be surrounded by the right team and have the best vision.

And in terms of commercial HF, he can do it. His Givenchy was for the most part black and white and Women loved it.

I think the accessories line, the luggages, everything needs to be redone for this brand.

Tbh, you couldn’t do worse than Ancora now.

I think RT is suffering from overdesign most visible at Burberry and his vision is too dark coded for a brand like Gucci now as they sell to mom´s and people just wanting a wardrobe to dress for all occasions life style like LV.

Black and white edgy would be limiting and they have this dark moody streetwear fashion at Balenciaga already in Kering .

Controversial ...but the size that Gucci is now at i think even TOM early Gucci would be too edgy for Gucci now as well.

For me brands like LV Hermes and Gucci Chanel are all so big and famous they are like starbucks and coca cola, apple , they have to be friendly and cheerful and upbeat and non offensive lifestyle ....dark and moody don't fit in this wider view as its turns off a lot of people.

 

[PDFSD]

unfortunately if they want a top creative person... they always come with as much cons as pros. Otherwise they will always be left with middle of the ground designer who they will pray somehow makes 1 hit in their lifetime or atleast to flatline sales.

There is a line that should not be crossed, Hermes people leave on time home and the are doing well, also at other huge brands that are big with successful CD i know people they have good life and work balance & it's not like this.
Its always the same ones you hear issues with about.

 

[PDFSD]

View attachment 1291418
gucci.com

This is the first product you see on the website.
A bag that shows the plastic cord inside the handle that costs 3500USD.
It is so unpolished and cheap. Gosh Gucci, I don't blame the numbers at all.

omg i just remember this bag its by Frida for gucci era








It's a Frida revival with Ancora LOL even the photography and clothes and bags.

 

[Creative]

I don’t know why I can’t quote, but I just wanted to say that for me RT’s vision is not very dark tbh. It’s like very commercial “dark”, very naïf dark, like rich teenagers wanting to be bad boys idk.

Also, his dark is mainly based on the gimmicks and the over design, the tshirts with the prints, the ugly piercings, maybe the make up and the settings…. But the core was quite normal imo.

I do think he can do well at a big maison. I think he can be chic if he wants, very commercial… and infuse a strong aesthetic to the brand.