Saint Laurent Mens S/S 2014 Paris

[kiseki]

this is easily one of the outstanding collection. that multicolor blazer is great

 

[KKnardi]

Saint Laurent: Sexual Swagger

PARIS — With pants clinging from a high waist, around the groin, over pin-thin thighs and on in a lightning streak of shiny leather to pointed shoes, the Saint Laurent show was a triumph of teen-scene sexual swagger.

The designer Hedi Slimane, with the accent on “slim,” went back to his pipe-cleaner silhouette at Dior Homme that set the men’s wear tone for the new millennium. But for Saint Laurent, Mr. Slimane brought his new passion for downtown Los Angeles. The result was a hit — not the fashion shock wave of his first time around, but a powerful message to end the Paris men’s wear season, which was filled with oversized sportswear.

Saint Laurent was no reality check. You would have to be a thrusting, super-skinny teenager to wear the clothes as they were shown. The dark set, illuminated with strobe lights that rose up electronically on pillars beside the runway, welcomed this gang of hot-blooded heroes, hair swept back, thin hips pulsating, shoes with exaggerated points.

But the tailoring was terrific: jackets, perhaps with shiny leather tuxedo lapels or with a sharp motif running down the backbone. That silhouette might be extended to a coat, or bulked up with a blouson top. Just once, the pants swelled at the thighs into jodhpur cool.

After two seasons of a grungy, casual wardrobe, this show sharpened up Mr. Slimane’s message and the image of 21st-century Saint Laurent.

Suzy Menkes // nytimes.com/2013/07/02/fashion/saint-laurent-sexual-swagger.html

 

[dior_couture1245]

I love Suzy, but that sounds like a review written with a bullet waiting.

 

[Spike413]

I'm not sure what people are ooohing and aaaahing over. It's Dior Homme. Save for the high waist I feel like I've seen all of this from him at least once before. Sure, there are great pieces mixed in, but as a proposition this is boring, if only for the fact that it covers no new ground whatsoever.

 

[ChronicKnowledge]

I think this collection was very refreshing compared to most of the monochromatic collections that we've seen through out this fashion week. I absolutely agree with what Suzy said about it been a powerful message compare to most of the sportswear that we've been seeing. To me Hedi can't do no wrong people just need to understand his vision to be able to understand his clothes. For god sake, he's the only guy that can reference LA better than most Californians.

 

[disco54]

Oh god this is sooo camp and trashy. Very mid late 70s teddy boy with a creepy twist. **do not make references on weight, please**

 

[milanfashioncap]

and I thought this was the mens collection!!!!

 

[lamies022]

The outerwear is indeed desirable but the whole package is nauseating.
I will admit that it's difficult to view a collection by Hedi and not find it horrible-I can't quite explain why, it's just a visceral reaction (obviously shared by many).

 

[vladimiryeo]

The model who got to wear trench coat is the luckiest bastard ever.

 

[ogepma]

This is actually not too bad. I mean, it looks and feels extremely dated but there are some very desirable pieces. One has to come to terms that this is the new Saint Laurent man and deal with it. I particularly like some of the more simpler pieces and the pants as well. That cropped leopard jacket is definitely on my wishlist.

I know Hedi will not produce anything new while he is at Saint Laurent but if he wants to always be nostalgic about his glory days, why doesn't he go back to what he did when he was in YSL 10 years ago? When I look at collections from then, they were so forward looking that they feel somewhat modern now. I guess that's a more appropriate heritage for him to tap ideas from rather than from those not-so-good collections from his final years at Dior Homme.

 

[xPedro]

I must say that I love this, I think it's ironic and iconic at the same time.

 

[tangerine]

I would say this is less rock-and-roll, more "vampire hooker" than his previous collections, though the rockabilly, Teddy Boy and Bowie references are certainly there. I agree with the "camp and trashy" description.

I think Hedi must be pleased with the visceral responses, both positive and negative. Obviously he is hitting some nerves here and getting attention. He's got to be loving it.

To the recurring remarks about the quality of the clothing, what I've seen so far (and that doesn't include any of this collection) has been of respectable quality. Definitely the jeans are better constructed than Acne jeans.

I don't see anything here I'd want to wear myself, but I think it's a good effort and more interesting than most of what I've seen presented for men lately.

 

[haydn]

i'm in love with so much of this! I can't pull off the styling, but i can definite integrate much of this into my wardrobe. there are some stellar stand-out pieces here (which seem to be selling much faster than his basics at the saint laurent shop).

 

[rayoflight]

Atrocious, but so amusing. I'm sure my neighbors 3 floors down think I'm gone mad, I'm laughing so loud. Cast aside, those clothes, save a few more "classical" blazers, are ugly and the styling is horrid, worst of all - grandpa pants. I guess there was some attempt to channel 50's bad boy look... Luckily almost nothing presented here ends up in stores like that.

 

[Nymphaea]

Next please!
One good thing is all the attention it's generating and therefore generating lots of money.

 

[Les_Sucettes]

The collection is nothing remarkable, as usual we've seen this a million times in other decades.
But by Jesus, I have got to give it to him, that's the worst looking model casting I've ever seen. Where did they found this guys?