Yves Saint Laurent Mens S/S 10 Paris

[dhclam]

my first reaction was "pilati gone nuts" but a second CLOSER look makes me think this may not be that bad IF it's taken piece by piece:
no to the pants (or at least it's execution, as the idea of the wider silhouette is good and suits pilati's style very well), the shoes are a terrible accident, and the see-through knits are even worse than the shoes.
yes to jackets, shorter-wider lapels, the short sleeves on the black coat, the gorgeous fabrics, the inviting palette...

PS: on a side note the "pilati wouldnt wear this comment" made me think too of that pic in the black outfit, but most importantly it made me think of his looks when he first got to saint laurent. his perfect hair, his beautiful navy blazer, his pocket square and his white trousers: the quintessence of italian menswear much?
fun seeing his own style evolve and comparing it to the image he projects to the brand. fun, but i kind of miss it!

The pants- exactly who'd wear those pants, I really wonder. Maybe depending on the city, I dunno. The shoes are painful just to look at. When it comes to the long knits, I mean, we know we get better goth around (i.e. Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens etc etc), I don't go to YSL to look goth, huh? And that's not the only way to dress young. Shorter-wider lapels and the short sleeves on the black coat will look totally out of place in any given city. If I want innovative fabric, I'd go to Prada- his mentor.
I think Pilati's earlier look was more Italian x Saint Laurent, he was channeling Saint Laurent's own look with the pocketsquare and wht trousers also, which I sorely miss too. Plus, we don't always agree with Mme Menkes. This is painful and the least likable collection from him at YSL ever.

 

[dhclam]

^ is that you or your avatar speaking?

He'll turn in his grave/coffin.

 

[mikeijames]

The pants- exactly who'd wear those pants, I really wonder. Maybe depending on the city, I dunno....

although it's an aggressive move to put a voluminous trouser like this on a spring runway -- one can easily see how in the fall/winter months these pants look thrilling under thick cashmere sweaters and coats -- he's going right for the yohji yamamoto/junya watanabe/commes des garcon menswear client. they've done the wide leg pant for several seasons. with a great polo and blazer, this look works just about anywhere. also, outside of the more directional jumpsuits and things, these pants aren't all that controversial when one looks back through his past few seasons nor at his womenswear.

men.style.com;style.com

The shoes are painful just to look at. When it comes to the long knits, I mean, we know we get better goth around (i.e. Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens etc etc), I don't go to YSL to look goth, huh? And that's not the only way to dress young....

the young remain the first to experiment with their silhouette -- they did skinny jeans/legging before most, remember? -- and i don't think that they're afraid of volume. it's the tailoring that may trip up the younger customer because these clothes HAVE to be tailored. also, while i do believe that YSL competes with the rick owens in the world for this same menswear customer, he's not fighting for a "goth" clientel. this isn't a goth look. the knits aren't to be worn over these pants on the street. they're to be thrown over trunks off the sands of st. barths or in an fashion-y experimental-y way over skinny jeans and bright trainers in a downtown studio.

....I think Pilati's earlier look was more Italian x Saint Laurent, he was channeling Saint Laurent's own look with the pocketsquare and wht trousers also, which I sorely miss too. Plus, we don't always agree with Mme Menkes. This is painful and the least likable collection from him at YSL ever.

stefano pilati has never put out a collection more true to himself as a designer that captures the spirit of yves saint laurent in a modern way.

style.com

 

[mikeijames]

He'll turn in his grave/coffin.

also, the wide leg business certainly has its roots in yves saint laurent canon.

(image source: redroom.com/blog/terence-clarke/yves-saint-laurent-san-francisco-high-fashion-high-art)

 

[Pastry]

^fine points. thank you.

 

[macchiom]

A quite strong collection with a clear vision. There are some nice clothes in there, but also pieces which seem to be there only to set the mood of the collection. This is a runway show and sometimes you need to exaggerate to get your express your ideas.