Yves Saint Laurent Mens S/S 10 Paris

[50two]

^thankyou for saying something that makes sense

 

[Squizree]

^Its a valid point to make Mike, but Junya Watanabe/ Yohji Y. are more focussed on the more poetic side of man. The side that allows a man to rule his own body and manipulate it tell his own kind of story with his clothes by using non conventional or as you mentioned a more nomad/louche medium. This is what I appreciate about Junya Watanabe the most.
YSL never really used this communication medium as fluently as Junya and so I think it comes to a shock to us that this is the path that Pilati has chosen to lead the label into. Its not neccessarily UGLY (in modern terms) but it's probably seen as "unflattering".

 

[Deleted member 7575]

After seeing the whole thing there certainly are some truly wonderful ideas, it's a solid collection as far as I'm concerned. Certainly there are some awkward moments but despite that, it's lovely. Bravo Pilati.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Okay so I've slept and my eyes are more than half open now.
And I'm not going to deny it - I like some of the pieces and would wear them.
. . For some reason yesterday I thought the models were wearing tights on their arms . . but it's the cardigans . .
It's very relaxed, very throw-on, and therefore inkeeping with the trends.. though that makes zero difference to the buyer . . a lot is crap unfortunately, and makes it look like he doesn't really know what he's doing.
Concentrate on womenswear Mr Pilati.
I'm not going to think about this anymore, I'm bored.

 

[BerlinRocks]

YSL never really used this communication medium as fluently as Junya and so I think it comes to a shock to us that this is the path that Pilati has chosen to lead the label into.

Are you trying to say that YSL was not a poet ?!

LOL.

No, nevermind ....

That's very interesting to see all these names quoted since last page.
Damir Doma or Yohji (and even Ann Demeule. 2006-2007) are names that come to my mind when I look at this collection. And I would like it if Pilati is going into this path.

I think that's totaly what inspires Pilati in his own way-to-dress right now ... and it's great to see that on catwalk !

I follow Mutterlein :

Certainly there are some awkward moments but despite that, it's lovely. Bravo Pilati.

would someone be gentle enough to post pictures of this collection spike and mike referred to ? Tom F. for YSL FW 2002 ? I don't remember this ....

 

[Spike413]

^ Here are some pictures from that collection at fashionwindows.com. Firstview used to have the full collection up, but it's missing from the YSL collections list, unfortunately.

 

[mikeijames]

Its not neccessarily UGLY (in modern terms) but it's probably seen as "unflattering".

i feel like this is pilati's ACTUAL strong suit. he did this with womenswear when he first started. those skirts and dresses he first created got lambasted -- i know, i lambasted, too -- for not flattering the woman. then, abracadabra, we saw every single mass market retailer furiously copying the look as they found that it's not only fresh and different, but sexy and flattering in ways we never thought of (even versace's doing a version of that skirt STILL).

i hope pilati walks this trend through to its fruition. the advertising campaign will be key. also, whether or not it sets off the dream among the big editors. also, we'll see if he picks up these themes in the womenswear (like prada did back in fall/winter 2007 with her "ugly" collection).

 

[Andymoon]

This is terrible!!! I kinda like the low necklines but what's going on with the shapes and silhouettes? So baggy!!!! I don't want to look like a homeless person so thank you so much, I pass.

 

[b9409]

I am also quite confused by the the model selection: they all seem very off in a way. Those photos posted are really awful in terms of angles and focus etc, but still some models are just... weird.

At first, I thought it was just the styling, but no... Still liking the trenches and some low cut tops and hating the pants and footwear in general. Maybe his YSL 'inspiration' here was the Algiers or Morocco vein of the brand DNA, but that seems a bit like a stretch.

 

[Squizree]

i feel like this is pilati's ACTUAL strong suit. he did this with womenswear when he first started. those skirts and dresses he first created got lambasted -- i know, i lambasted, too -- for not flattering the woman. then, abracadabra, we saw every single mass market retailer furiously copying the look as they found that it's not only fresh and different, but sexy and flattering in ways we never thought of (even versace's doing a version of that skirt STILL).

i hope pilati walks this trend through to its fruition. the advertising campaign will be key. also, whether or not it sets off the dream among the big editors. also, we'll see if he picks up these themes in the womenswear (like prada did back in fall/winter 2007 with her "ugly" collection).

Style moves faster than people. People dont always recognize an innovative creation as soon as they see it. It takes a while for it to process then it kinda clicks.
I think this is the problem with a lot of designers, they hang around the past too much hoping its still relevant when all they need to know is just adapt slightly to the future and take a little risk and invent something that could be so fresh and outstanding.

 

[JeanAvril]

Is it supposed to be ridiculously cold next spring/summer? I guess designers can predict weather these days...

But in all seriousness, I quite like the collection. But then again, I've always been a sucker for a nomadic theme... But I'd probably wear this a little earlier than spring.

 

[sobigsobig]

very super, very Yves Saint Laurent!

 

[dhclam]

i'm actually interested in which retailers choose to take on the challenge of this avant work. i'm impressed that pilati has chosen to put himself among the more cerebral of designers by playing with silhouette in this way. i daresay that if this were a junya watanabe show or a yohji yamamoto show, the same people who decry it would offer their acclamation....

Exactly, it looks too japanese for a french house, non? and this's not just any french house. This is Saint Laurent we're talking abt. OMG. It's painful to see all these rather negative comments.
There are those long dreary looks that I like, but, would I want to wear them on the street in any give city, be it head-to-toe or by pieces? Probably not. However, judging by the track record, Pilati has been very influential and been leading trends. Maybe this is somewhere we're heading. One thing is certain though, I don't wanna look fat. And normally after long digestion, I might like this show later, but now. I'm sad.
Last but not least, I just don't see the point defining the landmark by Saint Laurent's death again 'n again. I don't think it makes any difference as Monsieur himself had not been actively involved with 'rive gauche' since Alber's day. Whereas Pierre Berge is watching closely before 'n after his death. Pilati did mention his existence in the office at an interview. I'm not surprised, given Berge's biz/friend relationship with Francois Pinault. He wouldn't make any decision but I think he'll tell them what he likes/dislikes.

 

[BerlinRocks]

just some informations about the show ...
there were 175 guests (! - but it's menswear ...) and the video was shown before the catwalk show.

i think people really like it !

review of Madame Menkes :

At Yves Saint Laurent , Stefano Pilati, of Italian origin, questions all the ultra-French house codes — and himself. His idea is to break up the rigid Gallic certainties, however elegant and harmonious, that the brand once stood for.
“I worked so hard on that new short jacket — and on creating fluidity,” the designer said of jackets cut away at an angle at the front and worn with the soft pants that dominated the collection.
The show opened with a movie by the French director Samuel Benchetrit and starring his son Jules, whose husky voice was just breaking into manhood. The young boy attempts to mend a fractured adult relationship while trying on a wardrobe of masculine clothes.
A skewered romance is part of Mr. Pilati’s vision. So jersey tunics flowed over the body, twisting as if in a strong current. Layers of fabric with undefined silhouettes hinted at summer escapism, especially as the footwear was folksy flat sandals encircled with zippers.
It made for clothes that, on the runway, often seemed to be trying much too hard to be different. Yet after the show the clothes came into focus, as the collection was hung on rails and Mr. Pilati led his audience up to touch and feel his innovative fabrics. They are pushing forward the new YSL Homme.

 

[Pastry]

It's obvious that this collection has had largely negative feedback...
I have to say though...I think it's amazing. Pilati is a very talented apparel designer...there has to be a teeny tiny degree of trust from the audience that he is making a valuable point with this collection.

It's certainly a lot more intellectually demanding than a lot of things shown right now...Saint Laurent has always been about a somewhat sublimated sexuality and I feel that Pilati's own philosophy believes in the same ideas..although he would appear to be a bit more modest.

Lastly, I have to admire the taste level at Saint Laurent when it comes to fabric selection (and model selection, by the way). It's Pilati's forte, for sure..

 

[mikeijames]

with paris fashion week coming to a close, this show remains easily the most directional presentation of all of the menswear houses we've seen. it's funny that we saw even the likes of junya, rei, yohji, and margiela give us the most commerical dreg right now when that's the last thing the luxury customer really wants.

if you're going to spend $1k on a pair of pants, do you really want to see those same pants on some hipster who bought a knockoff at topshop? challenging us with a new direction in fashion is the job of a designer.

 

[Dkammern]

my first reaction was "pilati gone nuts" but a second CLOSER look makes me think this may not be that bad IF it's taken piece by piece:
no to the pants (or at least it's execution, as the idea of the wider silhouette is good and suits pilati's style very well), the shoes are a terrible accident, and the see-through knits are even worse than the shoes.
yes to jackets, shorter-wider lapels, the short sleeves on the black coat, the gorgeous fabrics, the inviting palette...


PS: on a side note the "pilati wouldnt wear this comment" made me think too of that pic in the black outfit, but most importantly it made me think of his looks when he first got to saint laurent. his perfect hair, his beautiful navy blazer, his pocket square and his white trousers: the quintessence of italian menswear much?
fun seeing his own style evolve and comparing it to the image he projects to the brand. fun, but i kind of miss it!

 

[Ianastar]

So disappointing....*cry*

 

[Dkammern]

^ is that you or your avatar speaking?

 

[JuiceMajor]

what happen to him?