Saint Laurent - The All-Things Saint Laurent Thread

[Lola701]

So close to the deadline though? Wouldn't it make more sense to start in after the previous showing.

Fashion is an ongoing conversation. This is not your typical 9 to 5 corporate job. As I said, the difference between the fashion industry and others industry is that you can never really have a separation.

1 month is enough to prepare the runway show. In those big companies, a lot can be done in a week. Even more than concepts and ideas may have already been thought about as many collections and projects have been in work since the last show.

You can think about the next show right after showing but things really materialize in the last month.

 

[tourbillions]

This is not your typical 9 to 5 corporate job. As I said, the difference between the fashion industry and others industry is that you can never really have a separation.

i am really surprised that a lot of people here want fashion ateliers to function like a corporate office. I'm sure that schedule works for some CD but most artistic work is very spontaneous and extends outside worknig hours and even outside the office.

 

[yslforever]

So close to the deadline though? Wouldn't it make more sense to start in after the previous showing.

Oh like nearly all the industry, especially in organized conglomerate , the 3 next collections are already in the making, they usually start at least a year prior a show.
Studio Betak requires models of the set 8 months in advance.
So I assume he's going back for casting, fitting, even deciding on the campaign, and fine tuning the scenographie.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

So close to the deadline though? Wouldn't it make more sense to start in after the previous showing.

It can be pretty surprising at such a quick turnover, but it isn’t the uncommon thing. From memory, Miuccia would often start the production of a Miu Miu collection at the start of the fashion month. Seems hasty, but highlights intuition and the relationships they have with their suppliers and manufacturers.

As others have said, for Kering I’m sure they have a fair few seasons on lock as part of their plan and strategies. Anthony would have his approvals and plans himself so once you start it really is guns blazing for the next month or so. Especially when you have someone like Betak doing the seta but also SebastiAn doing the sound. Approvals and permits for the show locations would also be done well in advance to notify the government and public (despite the partnership). All that’s left is the clothes, and finalising the look (hair and MU) but I’m sure that’s also locked in for the most part for the sake of these teams knowing what show needs what products, tools and accoutrements.

 

[alwaysademo]

Studio Betak requires models of the set 8 months in advance.

Maybe just for the ones with more intricacies? He's responsible for so many shows per season I don't think it's required of every single client..

 

[LadyJunon]

I have a feeling that the next collection is going to be flower-themed:

 

[yslforever]

I have a feeling that the next collection is going to be flower-themed:

That's not a new exhibition; Marrakech produced it earlier this year and it was such a huge success - 3,000 visitors a day, kudos to Olivier Saillard and Gael Mamine, and there were real masterpieces both in couture and RTW - that Paris wanted it too, before closure for renovation.
Kering is not involved in any of the institutions, but can be very annoying: the Fondation wanted to ask Giorgio Armani and Yohji Yamamoto to curate for them, but Kering put their veto.
I can't recall if Vacarello's team came to this exhibition, but we sent catalogues, as always.
TBH I doubt Anthony can do anything floral (embroideries or prints or colors), maybe something with a vague inspiration from Mapplethorpe or O'Keefe, but I would like to see simple thing like that embroidery on black velvet :

or simple crêpe numbers :

 

[LadyJunon]

That's not a new exhibition; Marrakech produced it earlier this year and it was such a huge success - 3,000 visitors a day, kudos to Olivier Saillard and Gael Mamine, and there were real masterpieces both in couture and RTW - that Paris wanted it too, before closure for renovation.
Kering is not involved in any of the institutions, but can be very annoying: the Fondation wanted to ask Giorgio Armani and Yohji Yamamoto to curate for them, but Kering put their veto.
I can't recall if Vacarello's team came to this exhibition, but we sent catalogues, as always.
TBH I doubt Anthony can do anything floral (embroideries or prints or colors), maybe something with a vague inspiration from Mapplethorpe or O'Keefe, but I would like to see simple thing like that embroidery on black velvet :

or simple crêpe numbers :

I'm saying this mostly because that's what he did for the previous 2-3 seasons. They were all inspired by an exhibition.

 

[blueorchid]

I know this isn't related to Saint Laurent -- as a brand -- but there's some sort of controversy with YSL Beauty blushes not being "inclusive" and the beauty gurus are fighting


sephora

 

[LadyJunon]

I know this isn't related to Saint Laurent -- as a brand -- but there's some sort of controversy with YSL Beauty blushes not being "inclusive" and the beauty gurus are fighting

View attachment 1308413
sephora

Blush? I get foundation, isn't blusk just pink pigment thrown on cheeks?

 

[blueorchid]

@LadyJunon Apparently the shades offered are too light for darker skin tones. I don't follow beautyguru gossip, but this caught my attention, so I'm not too sure about all of the drama.

 

[blueorchid]

Mess... they have a white base!!

 

[yslforever]

I'm saying this mostly because that's what he did for the previous 2-3 seasons. They were all inspired by an exhibition.

I don't do the connections: can you explain you point of view ? I personaly don't see any real relation

 

[LadyJunon]

I don't do the connections: can you explain you point of view ? I personaly don't see any real relation

The musee did a exhibition on hard lines and "brute" materials, Vaccarello does a "Saharienne" collection. The musee did a exhibition on sheer garments, Vaccarello does a "Cigaline" collection. It's not every collection, but it does happen quite often.

 

[NoInvite]

Well there was an assistant that posted the fittings on tiktok. I think the next show will be based on the last men’s collection with big suits but on women with ties. I don’t even know how this is even possible. I guess I have to thank the algorithm that gave me this preview before the show. But maybe this is a different collection.

 

[LadyJunon]

Well there was an assistant that posted the fittings on tiktok. I think the next show will be based on the last men’s collection with big suits but on women with ties. I don’t even know how this is even possible. I guess I have to thank the algorithm that gave me this preview before the show. But maybe this is a different collection.

View attachment 1308733View attachment 1308734View attachment 1308737 View attachment 1308735 View attachment 1308736

Delicious. Vacarello can't design to save his life, but the storytelling and vibes are always top-tier.

 

[NoInvite]

He’s great at putting on a show not for the store. Bags are not his forte either. Such a shame.
The first image I posted of the pants looks promising, it reminds me of that Marc Jacobs suit on Lady Gaga.