So You Want to Become a Model? (PLEASE READ POST #1 BEFORE POSTING)

[jakeee]

MODELLING IN TOKYO


Shotaro Arai is a scout and manager who travels the globe looking for the right faces for Axelle in Tokyo. Modelresource sat down with him in Toronto, where he was attending Model & Talent Search Canada.​

Modelresource: Tell me about the types of models that work best in your market.

Shotaro: We are looking for thin, long models. We need to look for models all over the world because we don't have a large variety in sizes in Tokyo. We need very specific types of models.

Hips need to be no bigger than 90 cm (under 36"). Over 90 cm won't work in Tokyo.

The waist needs to be no bigger than 60 cm (under 24").

For height, 175 cm (5'9") is a good height. You can do both shows and catalogue.

For shows, 180 cm (5'11") is fine, but 170 cm (5'7") won't work. 177 cm (just under 5'10") to 182 (just under 6'0") is good for shows. But even for shows, the girls have to be really, really thin.

For catalogue 170 cm (5'7") to 175 cm (5'9") is good.

Also, knowing how to smile is very important.

Always models with brown hair and brown eyes can work. The Japanese market changes very quickly however. What was new a month ago is now old. Even a year ago, there were more blonde girls, but now it's more dark-haired models. I can't even say what the look is right now.

Last year, last show season, we had three black girls that did very well. Years ago, they would not have. The market has changed a lot.

If you want to come to Japan right now, it is a good idea to see what is happening, and to check with us to see what we are looking for.

Modelresource: Is it easy for models to coming to Japan to work in other Asian markets?

Shotaro: Models should think just about Japan, rather than thinking about all of Asia. Asia is very different. I think Japan, Korea and Taipei are all so different. It's okay to want to work in all of Asia, but the model needs to understand the markets are very different.

Usually if we do take a model from another market, it's Hong Kong. Sometimes when we take models from Eastern Europe or the former Soviet Union, we ask them to go to Hong Kong first. That makes their book good for Japan.

Modelresource: A few years ago the Asian financial markets collapsed and it became much less lucrative for Western models to work in Japan. Is it getting better now?

Shotaro: It is getting better, but not like it used to be in the early 90s.

Modelresource: What type of attitude should models adopt for your market?

Shotaro: We just had a model from New Zealand that had a really hard time. I understand because I've seen what it is like in America, but she had a really hard time with the clients. I could understand what she was thinking, but to them, she was rude. People that want to be successful in Japan need to understand Japanese ways a little bit.

We have lots of Russians and Brazilians who I think because of their economic situation, bring a different attitude. Canadians, Australians, New Zealanders... If you want to be successful in Japan you need to be more professional. Understand what clients expect.

Sometimes it's really tough, but we know our clients and what models need to do to be successful. Sometimes my boss will tell a model she needs to lose three kilos (6.6 pounds), and the Russian girls, or the Brazilian girls will do it. They just do it. Girls from Western countries will sometimes just talk though, and say "how can I do that?" I understand it's not really healthy to do it quickly, but if you're really here to work and we tell you that you have to lose three kilos, then lose three kilos. Professionals will be successful.

Modelresource: In most major fashion markets the models are left on their own to get to castings. How difficult is it in Tokyo?

Shotaro: Every single casting, every single job, managers go with the models.

Modelresource: Japanese agencies have always been successful recruiting models by forwarding money for flights, accommodations and some spending cash for things like groceries. How much of their own money should models bring with them to Tokyo?

Shotaro: Some models from the former Soviet Union come with no money. It depends what kind of life you want to have when you are in Tokyo.

Modelresource: A lot of models don't want to do underwear. How much does that affect their potential to work?

Shotaro: If you don't do underwear in Tokyo, for catalogues, you will lose out on half of the castings. I know there are models that don't do underwear, but if there are five castings in a day, she might only go to two or three. Every single day we have underwear castings.

Modelresource: Can models in Tokyo end up with many English-language tearsheets?

Shotaro: Yes, there are a lot of English language tearsheets that can be had.

Modelresource: What about English-speaking models doing Japanese TV commercials?

Shotaro: It is not hard. We get scripts once the model gets the job, so she can practice. There won't be a lot to learn, just a couple short phrases.

Modelresource: For models that have seen the film Lost in Translation, how realistically does is portray Tokyo?

Shotaro: I have not seen it, but a friend of mine has seen it and said it's very realistic. I have to see it.

Modelresource: What else would you want people to know about modelling in Japan?

Shotaro: I think Japan is not as hard as people think. Taipei is different, Korea is different. For me, Japan is easy to communicate with the agencies. It might not be as easy on the streets, but the agencies are easy to work with.

In Japan, girls can walk by themselves at night, it's not dangerous. Take a chance on Japan - you will enjoy it.

 

[jakeee]

MODELLING IN PARIS


Michaela Goddard is the International Director of Scouting for Elite Model Management, and is based in Paris. Modelresource spoke to her in Toronto.​

Modelresource (MR): What body type works best in Paris?

Michaela Goddard (MG): Paris is a very tough market, but comparable to New York. The girls have to be very slim, and have great skin and be very fresh. Even for what we call the catalogue girls, they have to be very thin, while the fuller girls might work in Toronto, or even in London and Germany - it doesn't necessarily work in Paris.

It's the French culture where women eat bread and chocolate cake and drink red wine and stay thin. It's hard because you find girls that the average person would consider to be very skinny, but the modelling world is different because the girls have to fit into a designer's dress.

MR: How would you describe the current look?

MG: I think we're very lucky right now where, even in the campaigns, the classic fashion girl is working and so is the trendy girl. It's very nice because it's not as specific. It's more about the girl now and whether she has the right look and has the right energy. I think that got a little bit lost a couple of years ago when everything was about a specific look.

People think it's a myth that the girl has to have something inside. I've been scouting for many years and I can tell you right away from pictures if a girl has something inside - something that's going to jump out. I think we're seeing more and more of that.

MR: Most of the mainstream fashion magazines in North America are putting Hollywood types on the covers. How is it in Paris?

MG: It's still models on the cover of magazines over there. But it's starting to change... celebrities are starting to appear more often now.

MR: Is there much opportunity for models to work in television commercials in Paris?

MG: Family TV ads, Department store TV ads, average TV ads are all about models. And they're beautiful - I don't mean cheesy ads - there's a lot more respect for models. You know, it's more Cannes than Hollywood.

MR: What, if any, age restrictions are placed on models wanting to work in Paris?

MG: Paris has very strict rules and regulations. We can have a girl under 16, but she can only work on certain afternoons and can't work weekends.

MR: What are your feelings on parents travelling with their daughters?

MG: I personally feel it's important that a mother actually can see what this is about. Even if she only sees half of what goes on, she'll have a feeling for it because you can't explain what happens.

I think it's nice at the end of the day to understand where she is and what she's watching. I try to insist on it. But it's up to the mother how long she wants to stay - some stay for a weekend just to get situated.

MR: What kind of attitude should a model coming to Paris adopt?

MG: I think it's important that they study it a little before they come. They need somewhat of an appreciation for what they will be seeing. It really changes the way they feel about the place.

Clients are the same all over the world. They flip through your book in 30 seconds and look away. Especially if you don't speak the language. I think it's important models understand a little bit of the culture and history of any country they're going to, so when they travel around the city they can see something and say they know what it is. They can learn from it and connect to it and have a little bit of an appreciation of it. It does them a world of good so they don't come across as completely ignorant.

MR: Is it difficult to get around in Paris?

MG: The metro is fantastic. The girls say it's easier and nicer than New York's.

If a girl is coming in for the shows though, and she's young and it's a short timeframe we'll put her in a cab.

MR: Any final advice about coming to Paris?

MG: The worst thing they'll get out of this business is seeing amazing new countries and meeting new people. I think Europe is a wonderful growing experience for every young girl, and they may do very well, but at the very least they will have an amazing experience in their young life. If it's something they want to do they should pursue it.

 

[jakeee]

MODELLING IN MILAN


Joy Models has, for years, been one of the most respected agencies in the fashion capital of Milan. For Canadian managers looking to launch models internationally, Joy has consistently been one of the agencies at the top of the contact list.

Recently Joy's Paul Kopp, who counts two decades of industry experience, made a five city swing through Canada to find new faces to put in front of his Italian client base.

Modelresource sat down with him in Toronto.

MODELRESOURCE: Now that Milano has put restrictions on skinny models, does that change what you look for in your scouting?

PAUL KOPP: No. Extremely skinny models can't work because they can't fit the clothes. No stylist would take an extremely skinny girl. That has always been true.

MR: What is the Milano market looking for right now?

PK: Beauty is coming back. I'm an agent that has been in the business for 20 years, and I've seen the funky, trendy looking girls, and the girls with the strange noses. If you try to hire those now you would go bankrupt. Beauty is back.

In Milano, before you had the either the editorial looking girl, or you had the catalogue girl. Now the same girl does both, editorial and commercial work.

MR: Milano is known as a great market for new faces. How much experience are you looking for when you're scouting?

PK: We can take girls just off snapshots, but obviously they will do better if they have pictures. We recently had one girl that came with just two snapshots and she started working right away. But there are girls too, that have great books but take time before they start working. You can't predict in this business.

MR: This is the first time you've been to Canada in years. Why now?

PK: I was the first agent in Russia, and I've travelled through all the ex-republic states like Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, and they have beautiful looks in the Baltic states, and I was just in Brazil. The Canadians - and we've represented many Canadian girls - I find they're serious. They've very professional, and motivated. It's not universal, but I find Russian girls have a sadness inside of them, and don't have enthusiasm. The Brazilians almost have too much enthusiasm. Canadians are more reliable.

I find the families and the agents in Canada are all very nice. They stress that they don't want the girls going out, and they want everything to be clean and safe. A lot of agents don't do that, but I appreciate that.

Our agency, we've never had a problem of a serious nature, but we just had a beautiful Brazilian girl that another agency in Milano wanted, but we got her, and we just found out she has been going out to the clubs. Her mother agency is saying "Paul it's not true," but I'm telling them because I care.

After just one week we are sending her home and we lost a lot of money. We paid her plane ticket... we spent $5,000, but we're getting her out because that girl is trouble. She's going to make trouble.

Whose fault is it? The mother agency didn't know her so well and we lost money, but I would prefer to lose money and show the mother agency that we are professional. We have young girls in Milano, it can be dangerous.

MR: How do you feel about parents travelling with the models?

PK: I like the idea that family will come over to see where the models are. I mean, I would do that, but the mother can't babysit the girl, and we can't babysit the girl. Everyone asks me what makes the best model. I'll say, show me the family. Models with good families and have the best education, and they have their feet on the ground. People say top models are stupid. That's nonsense. You can't be stupid and be successful.

If the daughter can become a model, the parents need to have confidence that it's the right time to send her over.

The family can go if they can afford it, but it's double the expense.

MR: What if the model is under 16?

PK: I don't want to have a model under 16 without a family member. We don't want that responsibility. But if they are 16, they're okay.

MR: What do you want models to know before travelling to Milan?

PK: Be prepared. Check out Milano, transportation. Be more informed.

Another thing, I'm really tired of saying, but 99% of the time when a model comes to Milano I tell them: "Communication, communication, communication. Talk, talk, talk." Nobody talks. I tell the models, if you're going to Armani, and you don't know Armani, how will you be dressed? You might meet him personally. Know how to ask your agent how to be dressed. People like it, and it takes nothing. Asking, asking... be informed. I stress it, and probably 0.1% actually do it.

MR: Do you find models are intimidated coming to Milano?

PK: I don't really think of it so much, maybe because I live there and I've been doing it so long, but I guess to get in the mind of a young model... hopefully we will become friends, because we are going to be their family over there.

MR: You also have a connection with Florence.

PK: Milano and Florence. Florence we have a lot of commercial clients, and a lot of great photographers live in Florence. Models come in for one day, see some clients, then go back to Milano. It's only two-and-a-half hours by train.

MR: What do you want people to know about Joy?

PK: There are a lot of good agencies in Milano, and a lot of bad agencies in Milano, and a lot of the time they want the same girl. Our agency is a medium size agency, so the models get a lot of personal attention. I still think the person is more important than the model. There is a lot of personal attention and development.

We don't take models. We take beautiful girls and turn them into models. I hope that model appreciates this, because after we do all the dirty work, and they go on to New York, we hope they will remember us, and come back to work for us in a healthy, long-term cooperation.

 

[jakeee]

MODELLING IN HONG KONG

What types of models work best in Hong Kong?

Slim Models, age 16-24. Eurasian models work well in all type of jobs.
Brown hair is good for commercial.
Blonde hair models must have a strong book and show experience.

General measurements:

Bust: 81-86 cm (32" - 34")
Waist: 59-64 cm (23" - 25")
Hips: 84-91 cm (33" - 36")

​

Hong Kong is known as one of the only markets where models can work with several agencies. Is that wise?

Foreign models should choose the option of having only one agency in Hong Kong. It is the professional way to model in Hong Kong. Also it is important to be legal and have the appropriate visa.

Is there a lot of opportunity for English language tearsheets??

Eighty percent of the magazines are in the the Chinese language, so a model will most likely be getting tear sheets in Chinese.

What type of attitude should models adopt?

Models should have a pleasant, positive and professional attitude. If the model is too quiet or too aggressive it will be difficult.

Do Hong Kong agencies provide guarantees?

Usually not, but it depends on the model and their experience.

Anything else?

The agency will apply for a working visa after the contracts have been signed by all parties.



Jobee Yoshizawa runs Vancouver-based Mittsu Model Management, and travels extensively scouting for Voice Models in Tokyo, PT Models in Hong Kong, and Baby Blue in Hong Kong.

 

[jakeee]

MODELLING IN AUSTRALIA

Information Provided by Platform Model Management
Aside from beautiful Bondi Beach, what makes modelling in Australia so desirable? How about the fact that Australia has more fashion magazines per capita than any other nation on the planet. With Australian editions of Marie Claire, Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Cleo, Madison, Shop til you Drop, Culture, Yen, Russh and many others, models have excellent opportunities to earn valuable tear sheets.

High-paying catalogue work is shot primarily for Japanese and Korean clients. A thriving swimsuit industry also provides generous catalogue work.

Retailers' fashion shows are most common in February/March and August/September. The Australian collections are featured in May.

Sydney is a place to seriously consider for models wishing to work in Asia. Many scouts from Asian agencies come to Sydney, making it a great place to get exposure. The possibility of an advance on airfare is greater if agencies only have to arrange travel from Sydney.

Platform requires models to stay on for a minimum of two (preferably three) months. If you are 18-30 years old and carry a passport for Canada, the U.K., the Netherlands, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Finland, France, Italy, Belgium, New Zealand or Japan, you MUST apply for a 12-month working holiday visa.

Platform suggests models bring at least $500.00 to sustain them until payments from bookings begin. The agency pays the second Friday after the completion of bookings, and deducts a twenty per cent (20%) commission.

Note:
The harsh Australian sun makes a compact umbrella and a cap or hat a necessity.
Keep in mind the Australian seasons are opposite to those of the Northern Hemisphere.

 

[jakeee]

Sources- all modelresource.ca

 

[BetteT]

Great stuff, Jakeee! Thanks!

 

[pinksatin]

Hey, I am 5'7" an have modeled a little here and there in the cities I've lived in (Honolulu and Indianapolis, both small markets, Indy even more so) and people I've worked with seem very positive and seem to like me in front of the camera and my personality and all that, but I never get much work i think because the markets are so small. Castings will be like maybe 2 in a week and then none for 2 months. Do you think it's wise to go to Chicago and go to open calls at Elite and Ford or send them pictures even though I don't live there? Will they not sign me (assuming I pass their looks approval) unless I can be in Chicago at the drop of a hat? I am a full time art student during the year and I would love to be a model but I know that I am too short to realistically invest too much of my time and hopes in it. But I always still wonder if maybe I would have more of a chance if I visited agencies in a bigger city? Also, i am going to be in NY this summer for a while and I know chances are slimmer there for a 5'7" girl, but is it worth just going and seeing agencies even though I don't actually live there or is that just dumb and a waste of time? I just kind of want to know if I had any more potential than my small city gives me and if the potential is there then I'd pursue it. But I definately wouldn't drop out of school and move there on a pipe dream unless I had a good experience visiting agencies. So what do you think, go to castings in larger cities or forget it?

 

[jakeee]

^you'll never know until you try right?!

Most good agencies will be supportive of your school schedule, and if they want to represent you that bad they WILL work around your schedule.

Do you have summers off or any few month breaks at all during the year?
Perhaps if an agency signs you, you can use your breaks as an opportunity to model and travel.

Regret is the worst feeling in the world. If I were you I'd go to Chicago, hit up those agencies, and see what they have to say. You'll never know until you try.

 

[jakeee]

^Even some agencies in New York have girls that choose to go to university full time and only model on the side..so I'm sure if you have the talent, they'll work around your schedule.

 

[pinksatin]

Thank you for responing so quickly! I have the summer off for the most part and my fall 07 schedule has classes only mon-THurs. Chicago is 4 hours away which isn't that far but considering gas prices it kind of is. You're right. Even though I'm not putting all my eggs in the modeling basket I am guaranteed to have nothing I don't try for. So guess I really have nothing to lose. For NY, maybe should I send a breif info sheet of stats and resume and my card and some recent test pictures and wait to hear? Do they contact you if they throw it away so you aren't waiting or do they only contact you if they want to see you? I'm thinking maybe send stuff ahead of time and then go to open calls later in the summer while I'm in the city?

Oh shoot. I just though of something, I'll be in NY the first half of August before I go back to school but isn't that around fshion week? They would probbaly be too busy to look at new girls maybe? Hmmm....anyone know?

p.s. Thanks to all you guys who have been answering questions and providing info throughout this thread. There is no other source like this thread on the Internet I don't think.

 

[AriellaV]

The first half of August is a great time to go. It's when they're looking for new girls for Fashion Week, which is the second week of Spetember, btw.

 

[jakeee]

^mmmm i wouldnt call it a great time to go...june or july is better if you can.
mid to end of august is when castings start for show season because shows are the first week of september
go at the verrrryy beginning of august..if you cant get there earlier

 

[Party.in.Paris]

Jakeee Thanks a lot for the market profiles

 

[city girl]

yeah thanks jakeee

 

[tristan]

Pink satin, do you have an agency in honolulu? If you do, they should be the ones sending your materials to other agencies. Realistically, at 5'7, unless you are very young, or do alot of beauty, it will be very difficult.

 

[pinksatin]

Tristan, no, I'm not signed in Honolulu anymore since I moved away about a year ago and wouldn't probably go back. And I'm not extra young either, I turned 22 in March! I'm thinking the NY thing would be stretching my luck and thinking realistically it probably wouldn't have positive results so I will just work and have fun while I'm there. I still think Chicago would be a good idea to check out though since it's closer to me and more realistic that I could actually go to castings there. Do you know anything about the market in Chicago? I'm thinking of going open calls/sending stuff to Elite and Ford this summer. I'm still waiting for recent test pictures to come back so I can have new cards made.

 

[tristan]

Chicago is a great catalogue market! The people at Elite there are really nice

 

[MoDeLwAnaBe]

does anyone know anything good /bad about id models in ny? any advice will be appreciated..and what do you suggest wearing to your interview with the agency?

 

[Rochas]

^I dont know much about that particular agency, but their board isn't anything special. When you go to an interview with an agency, wear body conscious clothing and heels. Clean and sleek is key.