The Business of Magazines | Page 180 | the Fashion Spot

The Business of Magazines

Anyone know where UK Esquire is?
The May issue isn't out yet...
 
Anyone know where UK Esquire is?
The May issue isn't out yet...

Last issue was terrible, to be honest. They've always tried to be more artsy and it may have worked in the past, but part of me feel the hype is gone. I've been buying the American edition regularly despite their imposing hetero vibe. It's just great, servicey content, and sometimes that's all I want from a magazine.
 
It seems WWD is throwing some credibility to Anna's story:

Will she stay or will she go? We mean Anna Wintour, of course.


While the Page Six item in The New York Post that Wintour will step down in July as artistic director of Condé Nast and editor in chief of American Vogue after her daughter Bee Shaffer’s wedding has been firmly denied by Condé — and dismissed by many others — other sources tell WWD that the speculation might not be totally fanciful and that, indeed, Anna could be eyeing the exit. But only she, the Newhouse family and perhaps a handful of others know for sure.
Then they go into the game who might replace her, and some choices are an obvious joke, but some seem legit. I believe it is Edward's to lose!


http://wwd.com/business-news/media/anna-wintours-successor-a-tip-sheet-1202647454/
 
That report is so stupid. She could be.... or she could be not! Only she and the newhouses know! Then why are you reporting it dumba**es.
 
See! I was convinced someone at CN must've lagged to Page Six about this. No way would they just pull a story like that out of thin air.

Some of those names are really laughable! Of course Oprah and Meghan were added for comedic effect, but Enninful, Eva Chen and pretty boy Picardi? Lol. Anna held onto the job for so long that it's impossible to imagine anyone taking over. I wouldn't rule out Amy Astley. And why does Sally Singer's name always pop up on these lists? And Katie Grand is not considered, lol?

Depending on which terms Elaine left CN, I can see her making the actual shortlist. But most recently the media has been running stories that Picardi was the actual brains behind the success of TeenVogue, which of course doesn't show Elaine off in a good light.

Whoever it will be will be someone in the same vein as Enninful. Into a youthful, diverse and hyped direction.
 
If Edward gets the US Vogue job, rest assured I'll end my subscription. The perfect example of all hype, no vision. He's good as a stylist, but it ends there.
 
And I think Vogue UK fits him better anyway.
It would be good to see a new editor at Vogue US!
 
For US Vogue I wish: Fabien Baron, Karl Templer, Eva Chen, Ariel Foxman, Joe Zee.


And thank God that Tonchi is not in the list, bc the last time he was the first.
 
See! I was convinced someone at CN must've lagged to Page Six about this. No way would they just pull a story like that out of thin air.
And why does Sally Singer's name always pop up on these lists? And Katie Grand is not considered, lol?

I wouldn't put it past Page Six, at all. They are actually known for reporting a huge amount of fake gossip. But this time, i think they knew about her wanting to leave, and CN suits managing to postpone it, and they still went with the story to get all the PR.

But how on earth can you not take Sally Singer in the consideration? That just shocks me, anyone who has followed US Vogue, knows just how perfect Singer is to take over from Wintour. She went away, and they welcomed her back, not to mention CN suits want a businesswoman ala Wintour, someone who gets how commercial this title is, and would know how to manage it. Singer spent decades with Wintour at Vogue, she knows how it all works from inside out. She is perfect for the job, just Edward is standing in her way.

Either way, what a shame it seems Anna will stick around for few more years, it honestly feels like it's the right time for her to GO!
 
If other CN publications is any indication, Sally Singer or Eva Chen is a shoe-in. They need someone who understands business and digital because that's where people will consume content now. Magazines can't rely on subscription anymore. And, no, someone who has just big followers do not count. They need receipts to back it up.
 
Gabriele Hackworthy is out of Porter. She went to Jimmy Choo.

Who is gonna be the fashion director?
 
A name that hasn't been thrown into the mix, but whom I wouldn't mind taking over US Vogue is Phyllis Posnick. She's been there forever, understands the business and culture of the magazine, is an incredible editor, and doesn't accept BS.

I actually don't think Sally would be great as EIC of Vogue. She's too meek and the suits would eat her alive. She'd basically become what Edward is to Vogue UK and Jones to Vanity Fair - mediocre.
 
Finding a Place for Glamour Magazine in 2018

NEW YORK, United States — Glamour’s new editor-in-chief Samantha Barry says she isn’t afraid of change. She had better not be; in her first foray into magazines, the CNN and BBC veteran is embarking on a comprehensive redesign of the 79-year-old title, which has struggled to gain traction in an increasingly digital media world.

Barry joined the challenged Condé Nast title just three months ago, succeeding Cindi Leive. The former editor led the publication for 16 years, turning it into what was at one point Condé Nast’s most lucrative title. The magazine still has the largest circulation at the publisher — an average of 2.3 million in the second half of 2017, according to the Alliance for Audited Media. Barry was a surprising choice, coming to the magazine with no significant prior print experience after working as the executive producer for social and emerging media at CNN.

Barry’s experience attracting online audiences is key to her main goal: making Glamour relevant again. Glamour rarely generates buzz online, and risks losing both print and online readers to fast-growing upstarts like Refinery29 and Bustle. Other Condé Nast publications are grappling with the same problem. At Teen Vogue and Self, that meant shuttering print editions to focus on digital readers. A company spokesperson has denied rumours of more cutbacks in frequency coming to other titles, as well as any plans to change Glamour’s print frequency.

Since the 2016 election, fashion and beauty publications have embraced feminist positions and politics to vie for audiences online. Hearst’s Cosmopolitan has the biggest audience, New York Magazine’s The Cut is distinguished by its slate of writers. Indie title Gentlewoman is hosting intimate events.

Barry wants Glamour to “own” the conversations impacting women today, including #MeToo and the pay gap, with stronger points of view and more original reporting and exclusive angles. She said Glamour has a history of strong journalism, but “I just don’t know if they have shouted about [it] as much as they could have.”

Barry’s first print issue, on newsstands May 1, is a clear indication of her vision — not a publication for “good girls,” she said, remembering the way it was described to her recently, but for “smart girls.”

“We changed everything,” Barry told BoF on the thirtieth floor of One World Trade Center, looking at an early copy of the issue. Her office was flanked on one wall by a television screen tuned to CNN and on another by a giant map of the world, a reminder of her global outlook. A native of Ireland, Barry reported from dozens of countries including Brazil and Australia before joining the BBC in London. She moved to New York with CNN four years ago.

“When I told [CNN president] Jeff Zucker I was leaving to take this job he both laughed, and [said], ‘That sounds like the right job for you,’” she said.

The May issue’s radically different look was overseen by creative director Nathalie Kirsheh, who has spearhead redesigns at W and the now defunct Details. Glamour’s website was also tweaked, ahead of a full redesign slated for September. With 6.9 million unique US visitors in March 2018, Glamour is larger online than Teen Vogue, which has 3.9 million unique visitors, and smaller than Cosmopolitan.com, which has 19 million, according to ComScore.

The print cover will undoubtedly surprise some longtime readers. A thick white border frames a stark close-up image of actress Melissa McCarthy, topped off by a new logo in an architectural and modernist typeface designed to also pop online. It looks less like a mainstream fashion glossy and more like a pop culture weekly. The theme is money — how women spend and save and struggle for financial freedom.

The traditional front-of-book and well structure is gone, leaving just four sections of content: #Look, #Feel, #Live and #Think. That last section will be home to the types of pieces Barry is most excited about.

“I have lofty ambitions for the journalism that will be in Glamour,” says Barry. “Hopefully we will be winning a Pulitzer next year, not just GQ.”

Barry is proud of the fact that Glamour’s website got the first national interview with Cynthia Nixon, the actress running in the Democratic gubernatorial primary in New York.

As for her competitors, Barry says Glamour’s name recognition is not to be underestimated. “The great thing about Glamour is that it has been around since 1939…. [This] will refresh for some people that hadn't thought about Glamour in the last while,” she said.

Every day at a 9am staff meeting, Barry evaluates traffic and engagement. Her most important metric is habit, or returning visitors. She wants to jazz up the newsletters.

“Glamour needs to feel in both print and digital that you are part of a tribe, it’s not behind a [VIP] room,” she says.

At the same time, Barry is out spreading the word with brands — “I haven’t had to pay for a meal in about two months” — which she wants to expand beyond fashion and beauty to more financial institutions, pharmaceutical and automotive companies.

Condé Nast needs Barry’s Glamour to sell with brand partners. “I haven’t been in a job yet that didn’t have audacious revenue goals in that way, that’s not daunting to me,” said Alison Moore, the chief business officer of Condé Nast’s “Beauty Collection,” which includes Glamour, Allure, Brides, Iris and Lenny Letter. She arrived at the company six months ago from Soundcloud, and has experience at NBCUniversal and HBO. Condé Nast does not share revenue numbers, and Moore declined to discuss how Glamour’s print revenue compares to its digital revenue.

Both Barry and Moore are also working to expand the Glamour Women of the Year awards, a speaker series and awards show that Leive turned into a signature brand event, throughout the year. They see more opportunities to bring readers together — and charge tickets accordingly. Barry said she’s also looking to produce more video series and Instagram stories, part of a wider push by Condé Nast into video, which attracts more advertising revenue per view.

“I come from a video-centric background, so it's a comfortable home for me,” she says, adding that the team will also be publishing digital-only covers to highlight upcoming talent.

Barry adds that if her vision for Glamour “doesn’t work, I’ll change it,” she said. “I'm happy that I get 11 [print issues] to play with this year.” She felt her background outside print would make it easier to experiment, especially since Leive’s legacy could cast a long shadow.

“I don't think it would have been a fair thing for them to do — if they had plucked an editor from another women's title and asked them to come in and do Cindi’s job,” says Barry. “This is a pivotal time for publishing, and to be able to come in and experiment and try different things when publishing is going through a lot of changes — I'm not shying away from a challenge.”
businessoffashion.com

A bit more insight into the redesign of Glamour and the new editor-in-chief's views.

Honestly - and perhaps this is an unpopular opinion - I am getting tired of every women's magazine covering the same political issues, fronted by the usual #MeToo and pay gap articles. Yes, they are very important and the conversation about them must not die, but how many people would pay to read the same stories told from the same angles over and over again? I feel like we have exhausted every celebrity's stance on these topics and I'm afraid it won't be enough to generate more sales and engage "returning visitors", as their strategy seems to suggest.

At least they admit the redesign makes Glamour looks more like a weekly than a monthly glossy.
 

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