The Business of Magazines

A golden opportunity for those businesses who comprise the other '50% of the magazine market' to step in and gain, it's very good times for them. If they're not obstructed, they'll sort out the mess in no time - who's going to say no to overtime at the moment!
 
If they're not obstructed, they'll sort out the mess in no time - who's going to say no to overtime at the moment!

So very true!


Source | The New York Times | By Penelope Green


A Girl World Closes, and Fans Mourn

When Domino magazine folded last week, another casualty of the economic smack-down, a howl of protest rang through the blogosphere. Fans of the girlish, how-to decorating magazine owned by Condé Nast were vociferous in their disappointment, posting anguished comments on design sites like Apartment Therapy, Decorno and Design Sponge (which accrued 498 remarks in just a few hours), as well as nondesign sites, like The Huffington Post. Even Gawker readers set aside their snark to mourn.

The commenters bemoaned the death of a magazine that “felt” like them, and worried that their Domino subscription renewals, already paid, would yield subscriptions to Architectural Digest, Condé Nast’s remaining shelter title (median reader age: 50).

Most commenters linked to their own blogs or Flickr pages, and slideshows of their own homes, each bearing the distinct Domino imprimatur (much throwing of sheepskin, chic-cute tablescapes and Lucite furniture).
Many compared the arrival of their monthly Domino to Christmas morning.

“Noooooo,” lamented Sewbettie on Design Sponge, “this is the one design magazine that I really related to — it had design I could actually aspire to (instead of, um, yeah, maybe after I win the lottery).”

Sewbettie is the screen name of Cara Angelotta, 25, a second-year medical student in Chicago who runs a fabric company, Sewbettie.com, with her boyfriend, Mark Cesarik. Web-savvy and creative, Ms. Angelotta is emblematic of the Domino readership. For a few hours last week, posters on Design Sponge grew so excited by their own numbers, they wondered if they might petition Condé Nast and agitate for a stay of execution for their beloved title.

And why not? In under four years, Domino had succeeded in attracting the young, energetic readers that all media profess to desire beyond all else. Indeed, their sheer numbers seem to pose a question: why would a giant media company like Condé Nast cut off access not only to its present — energetic young women eager to shop at Target for mirrored tiles to glue around a fireplace, as Sandee Royalty did recently in her suburban Houston home, following something she saw in Domino — but also to its future? Here was vivid proof of a dedicated fan base for a magazine that seemed perfectly poised to transition to the Web, that in fact already had an appealing Web presence, rather than the awkward foothold sites of most Condé Nast titles.

But while its circulation was strong and growing, advertising numbers, much more important, demanded it die: it received less than half the amount of advertising pulled in by Architectural Digest last year (a drop of 26 percent from 2007, according to Media Industry Newsletter).

Did Domino’s demise augur the crumbling of a larger, cultural movement, characterized by a girlish and fizzy optimism and an appetite for Jonathan Adler ceramics and Parsons tables from West Elm, and peopled by thousands of crafty, handy young women — like Carrie Bradshaw but cooler, with fewer shoes, better values and a mortgage?

In 2004, when Deborah Needleman, then a young House & Garden editor, pitched a new shelter magazine to James Truman, Condé Nast’s editorial director at the time, she described it as “Lucky for the home.” While Lucky sells itself as a “magazine about shopping,” from the get-go in September 2000 it had been modeled in part on Sassy, a young women’s title that spoke directly to its readers in their own vernacular, and with staff writers who were characters on the page.

“The shelter format was 100 years old,” Ms. Needleman said recently. “There seem to be two kinds: either the out-of-reach aspirational ones,” and the very direct, how-to titles like Real Simple and Better Homes and Gardens.

“I didn’t want to do either of those things. Truthfully, most magazines talk to ad categories, like ‘the beauty buyer.’ I just wanted to talk to the reader. The whole idea was, What is each person’s idea of how they want to live and how can we give her the tools?” Domino would be generational, and reflective of its time; it would engage with its readers with hand-written type, headlines like “Trad Is Rad,” and features on how to translate the colors and style of an outfit into a room, or another called “You bought it, now what?”

By most yardsticks, the magazine largely succeeded in its mandate. Its rate base — the number of paid subscriptions advertisers are guaranteed — reached 850,000 this month. Its newsstand sales were increasing, according to Jack Hanrahan, a media consultant and the editor of CircMatters, a newsletter about the magazine business.

Mr. Hanrahan noted that Domino’s newsstand sales averaged 111,000 last June, up from about 96,000 the year before. And since last March, he said, “they’ve been serving 200,000 more than their promised 850,000, because they took on House & Garden’s subscriptions when it folded.”

“They are promising 850,000 and delivering 1.161 million paid and verified copies, which is a huge bonus to advertisers,” he said. “The readers are there. It’s the advertising that’s got to come back around.”

The business model for magazines, of course, is based on ad revenues, not magazine sales. And home advertisers, like everyone else, are beyond skittish. In a press release issued Dec. 28, Charles Townsend, president and chief executive of Condé Nast, announced, “This decision to cease publication of the magazine and its Web site is driven entirely by the economy.” The company declined to comment further for this article.

“I think it’s pretty simple,” said Charlie Rutman, senior adviser to MPG North America, a media buying company. “The magazine industry in every category is under extreme pressure, extraordinary pressure, for a lot of reasons: the Internet, the cost of subscriptions in a tough economy, the tough economy, you name it. By the way, there probably are too many magazines, but if companies can’t survive these kinds of pressures we’re not going to have any magazines in the future.”

Recently Mr. Hanrahan ran some numbers on the shelter category (what he called “the home service category” and which includes titles like Family Handyman and Hobby Farms — who knew?). He compared the number of titles in 2008 to the numbers in 2006. “The category had 38 magazines in 2006,” he said, “and 38 in 2008.

Four dropped out, but were replaced by four new ones.” Overall, he continued, “single copy sales lost 2 percent, a very minor slip when you think about how bad the single copy sales have been overall” — sales of all magazines were down 8 percent early last year. “This is why I came to the conclusion that this category is as vibrant to readers as it’s ever been,” he said.

Jamie Meares, 28, would certainly agree. Ms. Meares, who has a business screen-printing T-shirts in Raleigh, N.C., lives in a ’50s bungalow that she and her husband are slowly decorating, with Domino as inspiration. She buys two or three copies of each issue — the pristine ones go in a binder, others are torn up for ideas.

Ms. Meares is hip enough to listen to My Chemical Romance, but she’s grown-up enough to have a mortgage. And she has a blog, isuwannee.blogspot.com (a Southernism, she said, for “I swear, or have you ever?”), which details how when “Domino spoke, I listened,” as she put it. Indeed, links to her Flickr files showed a nice sampling of her at-home interpretations of elements from the Domino canon like a “landscaped” bureau, and the deployment of woven ethnic textiles called suzanis.

“Domino worked for me because there were women in there that were my age,” she said, “and I loved that. It’s not Karl Lagerfeld's house, not totally unattainable. And they would tell you where to get things, at places like West Elm or Target or Pottery Barn, places you could go and touch and feel and be a part of.” It worked, too, for Sandee Royalty, a stay-at-home mother in her late 30s, living in Houston’s outer suburbs. “Domino was my major resource for anything practical. I would get my

100-calorie M&M’s and my hot cup of tea and my Domino and go through the whole thing cover to cover.” Her Flickr pages show a contemporary house, all ’30s glam, with a white shag rug, white leather chairs and a white fireplace tiled with mirrors — a Domino trick, she said — and guarded by two white resin poodles (“$29.95 at T.J. Maxx,” she said proudly) copied from a Domino photo (“except their poodles were $400”).

She explained a pastime she calls “magazining” — sitting on the couch with her friends and “traveling” through the pages of Domino. “Like shopping, but we don’t spend any money,” she said. As much as she uses and likes them, the design blogs aren’t a satisfying substitute. “I need something I can archive, something I can ‘magazine’ with my friends,” Ms. Royalty said.

Marian Salzman, a trend spotter and partner at Porter Novelli, a marketing and public relations company, wondered if, as she put it, “these women may have made Domino a part of their life, but they may not have made consumption a part of their life.” Nevertheless, she said, the Domino reader may not be buying now, “but she is the consumer of the future.” Condé Nast, she suggested, had severed “another link to that emerging market of tomorrow.”

Domino’s demise does not, in the end, sound a death knell for the girly aesthetic it promoted. It leaves a vacuum in the print media, to be sure, but on the Web, Ms. Angelotta, Ms. Meares, Ms. Royalty and their sisters all contribute to what Ms. Salzman, the trend spotter, would describe as a “granular” portfolio of ideas, “you know, something by, for and about them, friend-to-friend stuff,” she said. In other words, the blogs.

On Friday, Domino’s offices were nearly all packed up. “We did our serious drinking and packing all day Thursday,” Ms. Needleman said. You could hear the sharp crackle of packing tape in the halls and the pop of bubbles in the wrapping; Chase Booth, the renovation editor, was handing around bottles of Stella Artois to the remaining staffers. Cynthia Kling, a contributing editor, paused on her way out the door and offered this epitaph.

“It’s like that scene in ‘Dinner at Eight,’ ” she said, shrugging parka-clad shoulders, “the part when the husband comes home and tells his wife he’s lost his job.
And she says something like, ‘Darling, that’s fabulous! All the best people are losing their jobs.’ ”
 
source | wwd.com

A Tough Second Half for Newsstand Sales

by Stephanie D. Smith
Posted Friday February 06, 2009

As the economy tumbled toward the end of the year, so, too, did magazine circulation. For the second half of 2008, nearly every large fashion and lifestyle title saw a steep decline in single-copy sales.

Though O, The Oprah Magazine; Redbook; Teen Vogue; Glamour; Harper’s Bazaar; W; Marie Claire, and Allure all reported double-digit declines in single-copy sales, titles in the fashion and lifestyle sector maintained their individual rate base levels via paid and verified subscriptions. For Jack Hanrahan, a former media buyer and now editor of trade newsletter CircMatters, it’s a sign that “publishers can shift to a more subscription oriented strategy and make their guarantees to advertisers.” Nevertheless, while publishers are attempting to shift the focus to subscriptions to offset declining single-copy sales, in the current environment, media buyers will have to “watch those magazines that are more dependent on single-copy sales — Glamour, Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar — those fashion books that are selling in excess of 600,000 copies” on the newsstand.

And, while the declining economy is likely a reason fewer consumers forked over money for magazines, one explanation could be their attention turned elsewhere during the election. Case in point: Hanrahan pointed out that Time’s single-copy sales increased some 20 percent in the last six months of 2008 over the second half of 2007, and Newsweek’s circulation was on track to grow 18 percent over the same period the year prior, thanks to blockbuster issues around election-night coverage.

Below, WWD outlines the circulation figures for the largest fashion and lifestyle titles as filed to the Audit Bureau of Circulations.
 
from Forbes:

The Journal's Fashion Victims
Lauren Streib, 02.05.09, 6:25 PM ETThe Wall Street Journal said Thursday it cut 25 jobs, eliminating positions in both the business and newsroom divisions of the company. Hardest hit: the Retail & Luxury bureau, a clear target since the Journal added a new style and luxury magazine dubbed WSJ. in April 2008.
Staffers were cut from the Los Angeles, Boston, Legal, Health, Real Estate and Retail & Luxury bureaus. In all, 14 were laid off; another 11 took a buyout, according to Wall Street Journal spokesman Robert Christie.
The fashion bureau had a full-time staff of nine; now it will have five people. Teri Agins, one of journalism's most well-known style writers is out, sources say. The top editor of the group, Lisa Bannon, will remain at the Journal in an as-yet-undetermined job. Columnist Christina Binkley will also stay. Other staff members were asked to re-apply for the three open positions in the Style section.
"For the last three years, the Journal has been building up its retail and luxury coverage group and trying to court that advertising," said one senior Journal writer who is close to the group. "But maybe now they feel that for the next year or 18 months, luxury advertising won't come through--and besides there's the new WSJ. magazine, which is courting the same advertising territory."
In a memo to the staff, Managing Editor Robert Thompson said the Journal, owned by News Corp., will maintain its retail and luxury coverage.
The fashion bureau was expanded in 2006 under then Managing Editor Paul Steiger, a move that allowed the paper to take advantage of luxury and fashion advertisers. However, the latest cuts signal that the revenue from the expansion in coverage was not enough to make the section profitable.
 
I read about this in WWD this morning & I'm really shocked that Agins is out. She is one of the best fashion journalists [not reporter] in the world. I hope she lands somewhere else & soon... or maybe she will write more books.
 
It would be terrible if Allure ceased publication.
 
I find Allure much more useful than Lucky. I let my heavily discounted Lucky subscription expire because I honestly got absolutely nothing of value out of that magazine.
 
^So true. Allure is a faaaar better magazine than Lucky, they have interesting choices and never bore me, however Lucky is very complicated to me.
 
Source: International Herald Tribune

By Suzy menkes

LONDON: Edward Enninful is fashion's gentle revolutionary. Last week he was in India, styling a shoot for American Vogue. By Valentine's Day, he will be back from Goa and at his home in England for the launch of an iconic edition of the magazine i-D, where he has worked as fashion director since age 18.

The great British models of this and previous generations have all been captured by the photographer Solve Sundsbo for the March i-D - from Twiggy, the original 1960s waif, though the aristocratic Stella Tennant, bad-girl duo Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, to the punk-revival Agyness Deyn.

"The confirmations were instant - it was about doing something for England, and models have been so faceless - British models always have personality," says Enninful, 34, who presented Terry Jones, i-D's founder and editor in chief, with a tough choice. Who to put on the cover, one eye closed or covered in the magazine's style, for this "Best of British" issue? <...>

For Vogue Italia, the stylist was "determined to show how chic black people are," giving a touch of class to the upcoming model Jourdan Dunn and the veteran Campbell, who are both also in the i-D shoot, <...>

Now Enninful is in international demand, his younger sister Akun acting as his agent. But his vision is still steeped in the street smarts of young England. He wanted, for i-D, to bring out the character of each model, like "rock 'n' roll Kate" (Moss) as a mature woman and now fashion designer. Then there are the "ageless" British models, symbolized by Twiggy and by Grace Coddington, who moved from modeling to creative director at Anna Wintour's American Vogue.
"I went though a great thought process - we didn't want clichés and stereotypes," says Enninful, who believes that the model era of characterless, Central European waifs is over.
 
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In an ideal world, if ever a multi-cover issue was called for, it would be one with such a great cast. I really hope they don't limit us to one face on the front, and give us a choice.
 
source | wwd.com



CELEBRATING AFRICA: A slice of Africa’s culture and creativity are coming to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. On Friday, the launch of Arise Magazine, a new monthly title published by Nigerian newspaper ThisDay, will be marked with the African Fashion Collective 2009 fashion show at the Bryant Park tents. The event will highlight the work of four African designers or designer labels: Xuly Bët from Mali, Stoned Cherrie from South Africa and Nigeria’s Tiffany Amber and Momo. Each is expected to unveil 12 to 15 looks at the show.

“New York Fashion Week is one of the most preeminent fashion weeks in the world, and we thought it is the place to be at this time,” said ThisDay chairman and chief executive officer Nduka Obaigbena. “I think it’s about an opportunity.…Africa has been under-reported and under-recognized. Meanwhile, so many big talents have African origins. We think it’s time Africa gets the rightful recognition in the global cultural landscape, and its fashion contribution is one of them.”

Arise, which features Naomi Campbell, Liya Kebede and Alek Wek on its launch cover, is dedicated to African accomplishments in business, politics, fashion, music and overall culture, and is being sold in cities such as New York, London and Paris. President Barack Obama will be featured on the cover of the next issue.

Before the show, Obaigbena will hand the first Arise/ThisDay Icon of Style Award to Bethann Hardison.

Obaigbena plans to return next season. “We are happy to be in New York, and a part of the landscape and to show talent, excellence and creativity coming out of Africa, both in terms of the magazine and in terms of the designers,” he said.
 
source | wwd.com



CONSUMER ENGAGEMENT: In Style pulled off a feat that few magazines could complete in the last six months of 2008 — the Time Inc. fashion magazine increased its single-copy sales by 6 percent, to 740,384 during the period, at a time when single-copy sales across the 535 audited titles by the Audit Bureau of Circulations dropped by 11 percent. A redesign and a new editor were just a few of the changes that helped to reenergize the brand, but its December holiday issue gave a boost to its newsstand sales. The issue sold 763,726 copies, or 25 percent more than the 2007 issue and 14 percent more than December 2006. “It’s always been about delivering the entertaining blend of inspiration and actionable,” said managing editor Ariel Foxman, who was tapped in September to succeed Charla Lawhon in the position. (Lawhon was elevated to editor of the In Style Group.)

As an example of the “actionable” part of the title’s mix, In Style has struck an exclusive partnership with the Gilt Groupe, the members-only online shopping outlet that offers sales on designer merchandise. The partnership will allow In Style readers to view sales on selected Gilt items in a dedicated section on instyle.com up to seven days in advance of their scheduled sale date. The deal is the first magazine partnership for Gilt, and marries the Web site’s 700,000 members with instyle.com’s nearly one million unique visitors a month, according to internal estimates. “There are an awful lot more people out there who, if they knew about Gilt, would want to be shopping our sale,” said Susan Lyne, Gilt’s chief executive officer. In return, In Style will have a permanent editorial presence on gilt.com, and offer additional discounts and savings to Gilt members. Gilt has plans to extend the partnership to other Time Inc. brands people.com and Celebrity Baby Blog.
 
source | wwd.com

VANITY FAIR’S OSCAR COMEBACK: Hollywood loves a comeback, and Vanity Fair wants to make sure everyone in Tinseltown knows its one-year hiatus from Oscar Week festivities is over. The series of pre-Oscar events, christened “Campaign Hollywood” and cosponsored by advertisers BMW, Dior and Bally, begins Monday with VF portraits of Oscar-nominated and -winning actors being unveiled in the windows of Rodeo Drive boutiques, followed by a party on Feb. 18 celebrating the opening night of the BMW Art Car installation at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, then a Feb. 19 Dior-sponsored silent auction and launch party for the Paul Haggis-founded artist charity BRANDAID. On Feb. 20, daytime festivities include a test-drive of the new BMW 7 Series beginning at Griffith Park Observatory and ending with lunch at the John Lautner-designed Garcia Home. That night’s festivities include Bally’s Hollywood Domino party on the rooftop of the new Andaz West Hollywood hotel, hosted by Bally creative director Brian Atwood and Kate Bosworth to benefit the Art of Elysium. Finally, the magazine’s famed post-Oscar party returns this year in a new location, the Sunset Tower hotel, which boasts a killer view but much less space than Morton’s. Already several regular invitees have noticed the scale back, quietly asking one another, “I didn’t get my invite this year, did you?”
 
It's musical chairs in London at the moment, as the new editor of Tatler is announced (Media Guardian:(

Catherine Ostler confirmed as Tatler editor
Stephen Brook
Tuesday 10 February 2009

The London Evening Standard's ES magazine editor, Catherine Ostler, is taking the same role at Tatler, its publisher Condé Nast confirmed today.

Ostler, widely tipped for the role, will be heading for the high society magazine just as its former editor, Geordie Greig, heads the other way to become editor of the Evening Standard after its purchase by Russian oligarch Alexander Lebedev. Ostler takes up her new role next month.

She has edited ES Magazine, the Standard's Friday supplement, since 2002, but started her career at the glossy society monthly, reportedly as an unpaid intern, rising to become features editor by 1994, when she left to join the Mail on Sunday.

After leaving the Mail On Sunday in 2000, Ostler joined PeopleNews, a gossip website founded by the former editor of Tatler, Jane Procter, but she left less than a year later to join the Daily Mail on a freelance contract. Before that Ostler, who is married to the Condé Nast general manager, Albert Read, edited the Times Weekend supplement and the Saturday Express magazine.

Last week Condé Nast drew up a shortlist of seven candidates after receiving 36 applications to replace Greig at the helm of Tatler. Bizarrely, internal gossip even had Princess Michael of Kent as a candidate.

"I am thrilled to be taking on this role. I started my career on Tatler and many of my journalistic heroes have been through its doors," said Ostler. "Tatler holds a unique position in British journalism and it is a particular privilege to become the editor of the magazine as it goes into its 300th anniversary year."

Nicholas Coleridge, the managing director of Condé Nast, added: "I am delighted that Catherine is joining us. She is an editor of considerable experience and perfect for Tatler."

Tatler dates back to 1709 when it was founded by Joseph Addison and Richard Steele in a coffee shop in St James. It has had occasional gaps in publication, but was reborn as a weekly society magazine in 1901. A lavish 300th-anniversary birthday bash for the magazine, the circulation of which is at a record 90,000 copies a month, is planned for autumn.

Greig, an Old Etonian and Oxford University graduate, edited Tatler for almost a decade. He replaced previous editor Procter, who revamped the magazine in the 1990s but departed suddenly.

When Tina Brown arrived at Tatler aged 26 in 1979 it sold about 5,000 copies. Condé Nast bought the magazine in 1982, with Brown as editor, but she resigned, ultimately to relaunch Vanity Fair in the US.

Radio 4 presenter and newspaper columnist Libby Purves edited it for a few months until cartoonist Mark Boxer took over until his death from brain cancer in 1988. Circulation had risen to 64,000. The magazine was then edited by Emma Soames, granddaughter of Winston Churchill, who went on to great success at the Telegraph magazine and Saga.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/2009/feb/10/catherine-ostler-confirmed-tatler-editor
 
source | fashionweekdaily

Hey, Little Sister...
Carine Roitfeld said to launch biannual teen edition of French Vogue

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

(NEW YORK) Who says the publishing world is uniformly contracting? The Daily heard that Carine Roitfeld is busy tapping junior fashionettes from her inner circle to edit a youth-focused edition of French Vogue, which will be published biannually. More details are trickling in, and we're still awaiting official response from Carine and Co., but any editorial content from the offspring of Roitfeld's intimates like Fabien Baron, Victoire de Castellane, Emmanuelle Alt, or Patrick Demarchelier would certainly revitalize the newsstand.
 
source | wwd.com

PRADA’S PICK: Prada has asked four fashion editors to add their spin and visual identity to the brand’s stores in New York, London, Milan and Paris by styling the brand’s spring collection, following the order of each city’s fashion week. W’s Alex White will kick off on Friday with Prada’s Broadway store, followed by Love’s Katie Grand, who will style the Old Bond Street boutique. Come Feb. 25, Oliver Rizzo, who collaborates with V, Another, Arena Homme Plus and Love, will mold Milan’s Via Montenapoleone store. Carine Roitfeld, editor in chief of Vogue Paris, will conclude the project, dubbed “The Iconoclasts,” with Prada’s Paris store in Avenue Montaigne. “The Iconoclasts” will be featured online at prada.com.
 
omg :woot: that's amazing :clap: I can't wait too see the video, and see what Oliver R. will do :wub:
 
source | telegraph | by Hilary Alexander, Fashion Director

UK ELLE Style Awards
Despite the torrential downpour the Elle Style Awards were a mammoth success, with celebrities and designers such as Alexa Chung, Sienna Miller and Pixie Geldof leading the fashion pack...

Another torrential downpour; another awards night. BAFTA stars and celebrities braved lashing rain, ankle-deep puddles and a bone-chilling wind for the Elle Style Awards at Big Sky Studios in North London last night.

Minders with brollies and a canopy hastily erected outside the main door provided a brief respite as the girls in their gowns shook the raindrops from their hair.

Freida Pinto, still elated after Slumdog Millionaire’s success the previous night, and recipient of Elle’s Best Actress award, wore a funky Chanel short dress with a transparent PVC yoke embellished with silk camellias. Alexa Chung, the host for the evening and winner of the Best TV Star, was also in Chanel, looking extremely sophisticated in a teal-blue, short, fitted backless dress, accessorised with a gigantic cocktail ring by Mawi, and a new upswept hairdo. "I don’t look too mumsy, do I," she worried. No way, Alexa.

Courtney Love, who was named Woman of the Year, entertained the camera crews with impersonations of Joan Crawford and Bette Davis. Her ‘Cruella de Vil’ black fishtail gown, worn with a little shrug encrusted with jet and black sequins, was by Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy. Roisin Murphy also played the Givenchy card, teaming her mirror-beaded top with a pair of Armand Basi grey harem pants.

VV Brown, the funky, retro-look singer, lived up to her reputation in a vintage top, with a Luella Bartley prom-skirt and Topshop ‘cage’ shoes. Her hair? "I just started to roll it back and it kinda grew and grew," she said. Titian-haired model Olivia Inge cinched her sapphire-blue Ashley Isham with a jewelled belt she bought on holiday in Thailand. Also in jewel brights was the actress Nathalie Press in fuschia silk by Mulberry.

Pixie Geldof, who still can’t quite believe she’s made it to the cover of Italian Vogue, wore a backless, white Alexander Wang and BF, Alice Dellal, was in her infamous boots with a skintight, sausage-skin of a dress, completely transparent at the sides, which she bought on eBay. Novelist Kathy Lette also worked the see-through look in a black Moschino suit with a skirt featuring peekaboo lace sides.

Spotted Alexandra Burke, the X Factor winner, in one of Dolce & Gabbana’s sequinned nautical looks from their D&G collection. Catherine Bailey wore a red-print maxi by Mother of Pearl, designed by Damien Hirst’s wife, and daughter Paloma was in Alaia.

Newer labels surfaced, too. Model of the year winner, Rosie Huntingdon-Whiteley, wore a vintage-look, pale, apple-green gown by Kaviar Gauche, the Berlin-based collection designed by Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kuhl, who won an On|Off Visionary award at London Fashion Week in 2006 and have just started selling at Question Air, which has several branches in London.

Meanwhile, Pauric Sweeney is emerging as the designer of the bag-of-choice. Courtney Love, Jade Parfitt, Emilia Fox, Natalie Imbruglia, VV Brown and Ben Grimes all carried his clutches and just yesterday; Jessica Biel was spotted with a Pauric S. handbag while out with boyfriend, Justin Timberlake.

Mickey Rourke arrived just in time to pick up his Best Actor award and gorgeous Sienna Miller, who received the Style Icon award, made a discreet entrance, which almost fooled the photographers. She’s looking forward to the catwalk debut of Twenty8Twelve, the label she jointly runs and designs with her sister, Savannah, a Central Saint Martins graduate, and which is one of the hottest tickets for the forthcoming London Fashion Week, starting on Friday February 19th.

Also joining in the Best-Dressed fun were Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting, recipients of the H&M Style Visionary trophy, who dazzled in black DJs with lapels encrusted with jewels, beads and crystals, Matthew Williamson and Christopher Kane who was named best British Designer.
 
source | wwd.com

O LOVES LIZ: Isaac Mizrahi’s entire spring collection for Liz Claiborne will make its debut in the March issue of O, The Oprah Magazine after getting a preview in Vogue. A spokeswoman for Liz Claiborne said the brand chose O because it reaches its demographic. In the issue, more than 50 pieces will be modeled by a mix of “real” women, models and celebrities, including Veronica Webb, Becki Newton of “Ugly Betty” and fashion icon Iris Barrel Apfel. The designer has included plus and petite sizes in his collection and has kept it budget conscious. To finish each look, Liz Claiborne is selling coordinated shoes, bags, jewelry and lingerie. “There’s a freedom to what Isaac does,” Webb told O. “He’s not a silhouette dictator — he knows that women have bodies that change.” The magazine hits newsstands on Feb. 17. The O feature will be followed by ones in upcoming months in Harper’s Bazaar, Redbook and Elle, as well as an ad campaign that will kick off in the spring issues of titles including Vogue, Glamour, Lucky, Bazaar and Elle.
 

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