The Business of Magazines

from wwd.com:

BERLINAlmost two years to the day of being launched, Vanity Fair Germany is closing. The current issue, which hits newsstands Thursday, is to be the last.



does anyone know why they are closing? unfortunately I do not have a wwd subscription to read the whole article.....maybe someone else could post it here? Thanks.:flower:


oh, why ? :(
I think this post is for bussines of magazines thread
 
There's Last Cover February 19,2009 : Sean Penn
On Newsstands : Tomorrow

vanityfair.de
 
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Sean Penn's last week.
Tomorrow is Heike Makatsch:
2009009910262893gfcf5fcbk1.jpg

source pressekatalog.de

They have not sold enough copies. Several German magazines have been shut down in the last months, like Park Avenue, Celebrity, Woman, Young.
 
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I wonder why they are closing :unsure:
 
but this is so sudden, i mean this week's the last. they could have informed us weeks earlier.....
 
The other day, I saw an ad for Italian Vanity Fair in a very old Vogue Italia, so it seems that version existed and died, before being resurrected in recent years (and perhaps disappearing again).

Sad to see the German version shut down, but here's hoping that it will come back to life in some form in the future.
 
The other day, I saw an ad for Italian Vanity Fair in a very old Vogue Italia, so it seems that version existed and died, before being resurrected in recent years (and perhaps disappearing again).

Do you mean Italian Vanity from the 80's? If so... they are amazing... I have some issues that my Mother saved & passed on to me. Antonio did many of the covers & Anna Piaggi was the editor.
 
Yes! And the ad I saw had Ornella Muti at a window, I actually saved the ad because of it, the image was innocent and erotic at the same time.
 
source | wwd.com

Obituary: Robert Fairchild, 66

Wednesday February 18, 2009

Robert Fairchild, a member of the family that founded WWD and other Fairchild publications, died of a heart attack Monday on a plane en route home to New York from the Bahamas. He was 66.

An avid outdoorsman and wine expert, Fairchild worked for the company in the Sixties and Seventies in various capacities. When he was a college student at the University of Pennsylvania in the early Sixties, he joined the family business as a summer intern at Menswear, then a monthly fashion trade magazine.

Fairchild worked as a foreign correspondent in the company’s Paris bureau between 1966 and 1968, later in radio for then-parent company Capital Cities Inc., and later returned to Menswear, according to then-Menswear editor Mort Gordon. Fairchild Fashion Group is now owned by Condé Nast.

When Fairchild was regaling the Menswear staff at a lunch in 1971 with wine advice, Gordon said he told his mentee jokingly, “If you knew as much about publishing as you do about wine, we’d be much better off.”

Gordon said that two days later, Fairchild bought a 50 percent stake in The House of Burgundy Inc., a New York importing firm, where Fairchild served as president and chief executive officer until his death. In 1994, he purchased the Maison Prosper Maufoux, whose wines House of Burgundy had been importing since 1947, and created the Maison Des Grand Cru to market the Maufoux wines globally. The French Parliament made Fairchild a Chevalier of the Ordre du Mérite Agricole on July 16, 1987, in recognition of his efforts on behalf of French wine.

Fairchild is survived by his four daughters, Stephanie Griswold, Suzie Kovner, Samantha Storkerson and Serena Sheldon, and six grandchildren.

“He had an amazing joie de vivre,” said Griswold.

Respects can be paid at Frank E. Campbell Funeral Chapel, 1076 Madison Avenue, on Thursday from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. and 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. Services will be held at The Church of St. Thomas More, 65 E. 89th Street, at 10:30 a.m. on Saturday.

The family has requested that in lieu of flowers, donations be made to the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine or Avon Old Farms School.
 
source | wwd



Nonnie Moore, Legendary Men's Editor, Dead at 87

Legendary editor Nonnie Moore, known for her energy and creativity in both women’s and men’s fashion, died early Thursday morning at St. Vincent’s Hospital in Manhattan. She was 87.

The cause of death was complications from a choking accident, said her son Thomas.

Moore retired in 1994 as the fashion director of GQ, where she had worked for a decade, after serving as fashion editor at Mademoiselle and Harper’s Bazaar. That year, she received a Council of Fashion Designers of America lifetime achievement award. GQ’s then-editor, the late Art Cooper, said upon her retirement, “I would have to say that she reinvented the way men’s fashion is covered. She has an infallible, unbelievable eye.”

“Nonnie was a brilliant fashion editor and always added something special to the stories she covered for GQ,” said Condé Nast chairman S.I. Newhouse Jr.

Designers reached Thursday also praised Moore. Donna Karan called her “a confidante” since the designer’s days at Anne Klein. “It was my first experience of working with fashion editors. She was so always up and very personable, passionate and somebody you wanted to hang with,” Karan said.

Ralph Lauren remembered Moore as “an incredibly talented and caring woman. She was very supportive of me and my business early on in my career.”

Added Tommy Hilfiger, “She was like a mother to a lot of us. She would speak very openly and honestly about not only my collection but she would show concern for us personally.”

Born in New York City, Moore graduated from Barnard College. She went to work at Mademoiselle in 1956, where she eventually became fashion editor under Edie Locke.

“She was never too tired to investigate anything she heard about, any inkling and gut reaction — she would follow through,” Locke said. “When we did the Paris collections together, we would limp home at the end of the day, but there was still something going on at night. I would fall into bed and Nonnie would change her clothes and go out. It was constant curiosity that always kept her going.”

One of the young photographers she encouraged was Bruce Weber, who remembered “this extremely tall and elegant woman who wore this beautiful jewelry, and it was very bohemian. She was just so warm and open and gave a young people a chance.” Later on, Moore’s husband, Thomas L. Moore, an architect who died in 1990, doubled as a Ralph Lauren model and was often photographed by Weber.

“I always used to joke with her that I thought she was the oldest living hippie,” said Calvin Klein, who began working with Moore in the Mademoiselle days. “She dressed fabulously but always eccentric and very hippielike. She was very artsy, creative, innovative, and extremely kind and generous — and supportive. Mademoiselle was wonderful in those days. And that was really because of Nonnie.”

“She had this amazing sense of humor,” said her friend Wendy Goodman, now an editor at New York magazine. “In a fashion world that can be really quirky and trendy and dumb, Nonnie was a beacon of wisdom. She really knew herself. She wasn’t susceptible to any of the silliness.”

Sandy Horvitz, who also worked with Moore at Mademoiselle, said, “Nonnie was just so young at heart. I was all of 20 and I couldn’t keep up with her, and I always used to say to her, ‘Nonnie, you’re younger than I am.’ She was the most positive, up, fun, exciting person I ever met.

“She was creative and an artist,” Horvitz added. “Once, the art director at Mademoiselle said, ‘When you go into the room and Nonnie is there, she is always speaking to the most interesting person in the room, because everyone wanted to know her.’”

Designer Carol Horn added, “She was the most generous, warm, full person in every sense. She was a very rounded, grounded and wonderful woman.”

In 1979, Moore became fashion editor of Harper’s Bazaar. The magazine’s editor at that time, Anthony Mazzola, said of her, “She was a first-class fashion editor and a first-class lady. She brought a great deal of enthusiasm to the magazine while she was fashion editor and she had an unusual sense of art.”

When she joined GQ in the mid-Eighties, Moore didn’t have men’s fashion experience but quickly showed a talent for it. “She took the fashion pages from zero to 60,” said current GQ fashion director Jim Moore (no relation), who worked under her. “At that point she was probably in her 60s, but she thought like a 25-year-old. Designers would get so excited to be in her presence because she was such a nurturer of talent.”

In 1994, Moore described to The New York Times her decision to leave GQ to focus on painting: “I love my job totally, more than any job I have ever had. Fashion has been my whole life, but I have also always painted. I finally decided that if I don’t paint all the time, I will never give it the chance I want.”

In addition to her son Thomas, Moore is survived by another son, Peter, and two grandchildren. “She has a wonderful family,” Karan said. “Family meant so much to her, and she made you feel like a part of the fashion family and that was her core essence.”

A memorial service is expected to be held in the coming weeks.
 
source | fashionweekdaily

India's Time to Shine
Harper's Bazaar launches Indian edition with Kareena Kapoor on the cover
(NEW YORK) With 28 other international editions, it's about time that Harper's Bazaar launched in India, the world's second most populous country. The first issue, out on February 27, will feature Bollywood actress Kareena Kapoor on the cover, which will be studded with miniature Swarovski crystals. Sujata Assomull, a luxury consultant, will serve as editor-in-chief.
 
source | wwd.com

Phillips Named Publisher at In Style

In Style has hired Connie Anne Phillips to be its next publisher. Phillips succeeds Lynette Harrison, who is leaving the magazine.

Phillips spent 14 years at Vogue and was most recently managing director at the Condé Nast title. She also served as associate publisher for eight years. Phillips will take her new role on Monday.

To fill Phillips’s vacancy, Vogue senior vice president, group publisher Tom Florio promoted two of his advertising directors to associate publishers: Lottie Oakley and Tim O'Connor.

Oakley has been the ad director for Vogue's European and American fashion business since July 2006; O’Connor oversaw Vogue’s retail and non-endemic business and has been with the magazine since 2003.
 
source | wsj.com

Just Asking: Anna Wintour
A Tastemaker in a Changing Time


When the editor of Vogue rails against consumerism, the economy must be in a tailspin. Before she headed to the New York runway shows, fashion kingmaker Anna Wintour—dressed in taupe Manolo Blahnik boots, a Carolina Herrera sheath dress, and a tweed coat with a large fur collar draped over her shoulders—sat down in her office, with a perfect fresh bouquet on the desk, at Condé Nast's midtown Manhattan headquarters and discussed why "value" is in and "too Dubai" is out.

WSJ: If fashion is a barometer of the prevailing mood, what can we expect to see for fall 2009?
Ms. Wintour: It is so important for designers not to run scared, and not to be too worried about what's safe and what's commercial.
Right now, what's going to work is something their customer doesn't have in her closet and that has a real intrinsic sense of value. …Because to be honest there's been too much product, too much copy-catting, and, probably too much consumerism. I think a sense of clarity, a sense leveling off and a sense of reality is needed.

So people want to look understated?

Yes, I don't think anyone is going to want to look overly flashy, overly glitzy, too Dubai, whatever you want to call it. I just don't think that's the moment. But I do feel an emphasis on quality and longevity and things that really last.

This morning I went to see Ralph Lauren, who designed a tiny but superb collection of watches. You can look at those watches, you can see if you buy one you will have it for the rest of your life.

During the boom, were people buying too much stuff?

I think it was excessive, and there's a very correct correction going on.

When do you think the consumer will be confident enough to shop like she used to?
I don't think she's is going to shop the way she used to in the immediate future.

Will she ever?

I am not saying never. Who would ever say never? That would be ridiculous. I think what she buys is going to give her more pleasure because it's going to last longer, mean more.

Are you trying to add more moderately priced clothes to fashion spreads?

I think we need to give women the aspirational clothes that can make them dream, and another portfolio that's about mixing high and low, certainly the way the First Lady is dressing. It's about a mix. …In the Index pages we are looking more rigorously at price and value and asking, 'is something worth that particular price tag?'

A thing that wasn't worth it? Without naming names, we had a little sequined thing that wouldn't come down to here on you [points to chest.] And I said, 'How much is it?' $25,000. I said, 'No. We're not going to photograph that right now.'

How is Michelle Obama and the Obama administration affecting the fashion mood right now?
Hopefully, the bailout package will have a positive effect on the economy, although it would be ridiculous to think it's going to have an instantaneous effect. Previous First Ladies seemed to feel the need to wear a sort of uniform, whereas Michelle Obama likes fashion and is very comfortable in fashion. She's happy to mix high and low, and she loves emerging designers. That will do nothing but good for our industry.

Are you personally inspired by the way the First Lady dresses?
She wears clothes beautifully. They always look like they belong to her. It's extraordinarily refreshing, and it's empowering for women all over the world. I think what's different about this administration -- and I am talking strictly about fashion here -- is that they really enjoy it. Working with other brilliant people in Washington previously, I felt they've been nervous about clothes, about being criticized and not taken seriously. Washington has been very conservative. But I think now we have a beautiful and brilliant First Lady who loves clothes and enjoys them, and she is going to send that message to women all over America -- they can wear beautiful clothes and still be taken seriously.

By creating the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, you've helped fund and mentor young American designers. How can you support young designers in such a challenging environment?
My editors and staff have to be out there in the next 10 days. We have to be very visible, very supportive. …[For designers,] keeping collections extremely focused while maintaining quality is also important. Making everything suddenly inexpensive is not the right way to go.

I have to say how incredibly generous the industry is -- how supportive of young talent. It's an incredibly impressive group: Patrick Robinson, Kate and Andy Spade, Andrew Rosen, Reed Krakoff, Diane [von Furstenberg, president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America]. Even the beauty industry, they really do believe in giving back. None of them are stepping back at this time, which I think is remarkable.

If many of the most successful emerging designers are still struggling, what do you tell all the fashion students who want to be just like them?
It's important for young women and men coming out of the fashion schools to think seriously before starting their own collections. Anyone who wants to be a designer and thinks they're going to be the next Calvin [Klein], Ralph [Lauren], or Michael [Kors] is not realistic. It is much more helpful for them to go and study with an Oscar [de la Renta] or a Carolina [Herrera] -- someone who can teach them.

Many well-known designers have recently created cheap-chic lines for stores such as H&M and Target. Why don't they just license their own low-end labels? Do you think they've ceded ground to some of the purveyors of fast fashion?
I am sure that the checks from Target, and the exposure, are very helpful. I don't agree that [they lost ground to cheap-chic retailers]. If it's the right fit, [I encourage it] absolutely. One of the collaborations we do through the Fashion Fund is with the Gap [wherein the winners design their own twist on the classic white shirt]. Gap takes the designers all over the world, and photographs them with young models wearing the shirts. And the shirts are fabulous.
 
More on the closure of German Vanity Fair from Media Guardian:

Condé Nast closes German Vanity Fair

Caitlin Fitzsimmonds
Friday 20th February 2009

Condé Nast has closed the German edition of Vanity Fair two years after it launched the title amid great fanfare, blaming the economic downturn.

The final issue of Vanity Fair Germany, which was published as a weekly, appeared yesterday. It is unclear what will happen to the 80 Berlin-based staff who worked on the title.

Jonathan Newhouse, chairman of Condé Nast International, who committed to keeping the magazine running as recently as December last year said it was his "sad duty" to announce the closure.

"It is a shock when an excellent magazine is closed and particularly so in the case of Vanity Fair Germany. Only 11 weeks ago I publicly vowed that Condé Nast would continue to publish Vanity Fair in spite of difficulties," Newhouse said.

He added: "But the world is changing rapidly and in ways for which no one can be truly prepared. The global economy has been plunged into a crisis of historic proportions. Media owners, such as the US-based parent organisation of Condé Nast Germany, today face very serious business challenges – difficulties which could not have been foreseen even a short time ago. In a normal economic climate, we would have bravely carried on publishing Vanity Fair. In today's bleak economic climate, it is impossible."

Newhouse praised the staff who worked on the title, saying that Vanity Fair Germany was an "outstanding" publication that made an important journalistic contribution.

A former editor on Vanity Fair Germany told MediaGuardian.co.uk he had been "extremely disappointed" after starting the job in Berlin and seeing the dummies of the magazine.
"The magazine had nothing to do with the Vanity Fair I knew from America," he said. "They converted it into a weekly magazine covering cheap celebrity crap."

He added that Condé Nast Germany had "no experience with such an ambitious project", and he believed they had chosen the wrong people to fill the leading positions there. It is understood that only one person out of the original launch team remains working on the title.

Vanity Fair Germany launched in February 2007 at a cost of €50m – the most expensive new magazine in Germany in years and Condé Nast's biggest investment outside the US.
However, a year after launch the title was derided as an "expensive flop", with commentators questioning whether the glossy celebrity package of the US flagship title translated to the German audience.

Circulation had plummeted from half a million to less than 200,000 per week, according to German press reports.

There is also an Italian edition of Vanity Fair, running since 2003, and a Spanish version launched last September.

Condé Nast International publishes 110 magazines worldwide, up from the 38 published when Newhouse became chairman in 1990.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/2009/feb/20/conde-nast-german-vanity-fair-closes
 
in my country, there's only cosmopolitan georgia, but there isn't any other fashion magazine in gerogian language , and i wonder why, after 2003 my country is well-known worldwide and our economic is growing, there're fasmous designers stores and fashion level is more then medium, so if you find any information about my country and it's future magazine please post it
 
POP MAGAZINE (published by Bauer)- Rumours on replacements

ok, so I thought it would be cool to post a new thread on the possible speculations on the replacements in the editorial department...

for now, rumour has it that Dasha Zhukova will be editor-in-chief and Olympia Scarry will become creative director...

If there is any update, post all here!!

(source: fashionologie.com)
 

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