The Business of Magazines

UK magazines. What will happen?

Grazia is currently fortnightly.
ES magazine is on hiatus.
The Stylist has gone digital. They had a lovely Shira Haas cover last week. What a waste.
Style with the Sunday Times are doing buy in/repeat covers. Which they said they would never do.
The Hearst monthlies are business as usual this month. No Corona cover changes.
Vogue. What will they do for September? Will people advertise?
Esquire. Currently only six issues a year. Can it survive this?
Elle. Already so much buy in content. I guess we can expect more?

I guess, the strongest survive?

The fact that ES is on hold probably tells you the magazine relies solely on advertising income.

It's really a shame that Stylist went digital-only. Like Sunday Times, I do enjoy reading the print copies because it really captures the sort of UK-specific content that is relevant. What we're eating, doing, thinking etc. I can go to other magazines if I want a global perspective. Sadly with digital, their brand will reach even fewer readers. They're not AirMail. I only rush to open emails with the subject: 'Graydon Carter here....'

More concerned about Esquire and Elle. I've started liking their content and direction, and Alex boldly assured everyone in a podcast interview that the magazine WILL stay in print 5 years from now. Then again, he also said that Esquire is in a class it's own and doesn't compete with GQ. Which, :rolleyes:.

Speaking of podcasts, here's an interview with Edward. Alexandra will no doubt clap back in 3...2...

‎Talk Art: Edward Enninful OBE (QuarARTine special episode) on Apple Podcasts
 
I will always have a soft spot for Graydon Carter, if only for Spy and the brilliant tiny hands thing that still continues to this day. Lol

WSJ. My Monday Morning
Graydon Carter on Writing a Memoir in Lockdown

In our series My Monday Morning, self-motivated people tell WSJ. how they start off the week.

In some ways, Graydon Carter’s lockdown sounds like another person’s dream vacation. The former Vanity Fair editor in chief, who now runs the digital newsletter Air Mail, which he founded last year, has been hunkered down at his home in Opio, a town in Provence, France, since stay-at-home began in March. (He’s been living there on and off since 2017.) There he wakes with the sun, begins work at 11 a.m., awaits deliveries from his wine dealer and fishmonger and enjoys movie marathons with his wife, Anna Scott Carter, and two of his children. That’s not to say it’s all play; Carter, 70, makes multipage lists every day to keep track of all of his work and other to-do’s.

In mid-May, Air Mail collaborated with Shreeji News and Magazines to revamp and reopen a “highly curated” newsstand, coffee bar and reading room across from London’s Chiltern Firehouse, a luxury hotel in Marylebone. But Carter says he doesn’t miss the world of print journalism. “I switched over to digital; I even prefer a digital newspaper to the actual paper,” he says. “I don’t want to be in the physical business. We designed Air Mail to be assembled from different locations around the world.”

Here, Carter talks to WSJ. about why he starts each day with a liter of room temperature water, what his writing routine is like as he makes progress on his memoir and whether or not he still reads Vanity Fair.

What time do you get up on Mondays, and what’s the first thing you do after waking up?

I get up pretty much the same time every day. I wake up with the sun and I get up between 7 and 7:30 a.m. I never use an alarm clock. Then I open the curtains and stretch a bit and I try to drink a liter of water before I have coffee every morning. My grandma who died at 97 made a habit of that, and I think it’s a good habit. I think the body is much more relieved to have room-temperature water first thing in the morning than a hot cup of coffee. And then I do what I’ve done for years: I spend the next couple of hours reading the papers. While over here in France, I read the European papers first and then I read the American ones. I read the British papers—the Daily Mail, the Times and the Guardian. Then [my Air Mail co-editor] Alessandra [Stanley] will send me clippings that she read in the French papers, and I’ll do Google Translate because it would take me forever to read an article in French. Then I go to The Journal, the Times, the Washington Post and the New York Post. I make notes while I’m reading them and I send things that I think are interesting to my email account. Then I’ll shower and shave. Even during the lockdown, I shave every day.

What’s next?

And then what I’ll do is I’ll sit down and plan out my day. I plan it out and I print it out. It runs to three pages. It’s just the people I want to stay in touch with, a lot of people. We have nowhere to live in New York because our apartment was in the middle of a renovation when the coronavirus hit, so that’s been put on indefinite hold, but we still have a weekly meeting to talk with our architects about the final details, so I keep [notes on] that. Things I have to order…. Then there’s a lot of Air Mail stuff. I talk to the staff almost every day, and Alessandra and I, we deal with each other probably 30 times a day. Then I highlight what I definitely want to do today and I boldface what I hope to do today. Then I print it out, staple and I start work around 11 o’ clock.

When I was at Vanity Fair, I would do pretty much the same thing. I probably wouldn’t get to the office much before 11 or 11:15, but I’d already edited all my manuscripts, done all my emailing to Europe, all my correspondence. Because when I came to the office, I basically just talked to people all day long: writers or photographers or editors or staff members. My schedule hasn’t changed that much in moving to Europe and starting Air Mail and running Air Mail under lockdown.

What do you eat for breakfast to start the week off right?

I eat the same thing for breakfast every day. I have a plain soy yogurt.

Do you take vitamins?

I take a load of vitamins. I have a great doctor in New York who’s big on Eastern and Western medicine, so I take an assortment every morning religiously and generally just with hot water.

What about caffeine?

I drink a lot of coffee. I probably drink too much. In the house here in France, we have a 1975 coffee maker. It’s the oldest coffee maker I’ve seen operating today; it should go in the Smithsonian. I’ll make a big pitcher of coffee for myself and two other members of my family who are here with me. Whatever’s left over, I’ll put it in [the refrigerator] and keep it as iced coffee and drink that in the afternoon. I’ll probably have five or six cups a day.

Is there anything you do on Monday to prevent yourself from having a bad week?

I meditate before I start work every morning and then two mornings a week at 11 o’ clock, I do Pilates with our wonderful Pilates instructor. Since the lockdown, we do it video style which saves me all the drive time. [But] I basically wake up in a good mood.

What’s your writing routine like right now?

I’m working on a memoir, so I spend an hour a day [on that] and an hour a day drawing, so those are usually later in the afternoon.

There’s never a good time for it, but I do believe in leaving a paragraph half-finished. When you come back to it, it’s much easier to finish a paragraph than to start a new one. I never really have writer’s block; I can write well or badly on individual days. But I try to put an hour aside a day to work on this quasi-memoir.

Air Mail has a London newsstand as of May 13. Why a physical store right now?

Well, that was one of our editors at large, Laura de Gunzburg, and her husband is Gabriel Chipperfield. He’s an architect, and they worked out an arrangement with the people who owned the newsstand to do it this way. And I happen to love the way it looks. My [role] is just the Air Mail aspect of it—approving the design of the cups and some branding things. But other than that, it was done by my staff.

Do you still read Vanity Fair?

I don’t read magazines that much, strangely, only if it’s to find out what they’ve done so we don’t duplicate it. But newspapers are much more of interest to me right now, and they’re much more useful in assembling Air Mail. I don’t want to duplicate what the American papers have done. Chances are, in a fresh copy of Air Mail, most of those stories are stories you haven’t read before. That’s the goal.

What’s lockdown life in France like? Have you mostly been staying home?

Yeah, other than walking the dog. Even our wine dealer delivers, we have an incredible fishmonger who delivers. [Before the pandemic,] I hated running around all the time. This really agrees with me; I may never go back to my old way. I have FOGO, fear of going out.

So this period suits you?

It suits me amazingly. My wife, who is much more sociable than I am, even she’s come around to it. [Before,] every weekend, she’d want to go off to Antibes or Nice or do something…. My youngest daughter and I, we just sort of like to relax. I’m very comfortable being lazy. I’ll be happy to get back out into the outside world, but I’m in no rush.

Have your routines shifted at all?

I was telling a friend this week, I always found church a forced march, and there’s a beautiful church in Nice that we go to, and I reluctantly go along with my wife, who loves it. And now that I can’t go, I miss it, even though it is a forced march. This church has a wonderful minister, who I love to hear. And I miss seeing the locals from the towns and the village square restaurants…. There’s very little happenstance during lockdown, everything has to be planned out.

Is there anything you miss about New York?

I miss my friends and my family. There are a lot of things I don’t miss. I don’t miss the running around. New York to me is all about your friends and your family and it’s not about tall buildings or the beautiful climate or the clean, air-conditioned subways—those are not attractions. It’s just friends and family. And I miss going to restaurants. I love going to restaurants.

As a restaurant owner [Carter co-owns the Waverly Inn and Monkey Bar in New York City], what do you predict will happen to dining after this?

Oh, I think it’s going to be brutal for the next two or three years. But, you know, the good thing is people and Americans and New Yorkers particularly have some collective sense of amnesia. I think after two, three years, this will be a distant but searing memory and the people and restaurants will be filled again and they will stay that way until the next thing comes around.

Are you reading any good books or watching any good TV?

Well, a lot of books. This house happens to have a great library, and we brought a lot of books. I’ve reread a lot of P.G. Wodehouse, two or three Evelyn Waugh books. I read this series by Martin Walker about a police chief in Provence. It’s a set of procedural mysteries. We’ve watched this series called A French Village on Hulu about a village in France during the German occupation. I happen to love The Durrells in Corfu that ran on PBS and is available over here now. My youngest son, who’s staying with us here, he and I have been having a Steven Seagal film festival that just appalls my wife. But we’ll have a film festival, we’ll have Hitchcock night, a thriller night, an epic night. We change it up different nights after dinner. Sometimes we’ll change up where we eat. Sometimes we’ll eat up on the terrace—you can see the sea from there. We play a lot of card games and Rummikub. If you’ve never played Rummikub, I highly advise it. It’s a boring board game your grandmother probably played in the 1930s, but it’s really good and really tense at cocktail hour.

My philosophy is always to make the best of the circumstances that have been delivered to you.

What’s one piece of advice you’ve gotten that’s guided you?

I had a large failure when I was young. I had a magazine when I was in Canada that went bankrupt in 1977, before I came to America, and I always tell my kids, I learned more from that failure than from any success that came after it. You never learn from success; you only learn from failure. What you try to do is to keep those failures—because you’re going to have failures on a daily basis, on a weekly basis, on a monthly basis—just try to keep them small.
source | wsj
 
Fashion Editor Joseph Carle, Who Discovered Liu Wen, Dies at 65

Carle was credited with discovering Liu Wen when she was a fitting model and the launch of the Chinese editions of Marie Claire and Numéro.


Tianwei Zhang


Liu Wen and her mentor Joseph Carle, who discovered her
when she was a fitting model at Marie Claire China.

Fashion editor and stylist Joseph Carle, who discovered Liu Wen and launched the Chinese editions of Marie Claire and Numéro, has died in France at age 65. The cause of death was cancer.

Carle started his career in Paris in the late Eighties, polishing his credentials by working with Avenue Magazine, Madame Figaro and Vogue Hommes. He then worked for Elle France for almost a decade and stayed at DS Magazine briefly before moving to China in 2005 to spearhead the launch of Marie Claire China.

It was a time when fashion publications in the market began to look up to their international peers by adopting a more global point of view, as luxury spending soared in China.

Dan Cui, former fashion director of GQ China, who started his career under Carle at Marie Claire China, remembered how Carle raised the magazine’s standards.

“Joseph brought professionalism to China. Before he arrived, the sample room was the closet for cleaning tools, and there was no such thing as a fitting. He set the rules to have mandatory fittings three days before the shoot, and he taught me that being beautiful is not enough for an editorial, it needs to convey ideas,” Cui said.

During his tenure at Marie Claire China as creative director, Carle also discovered the then-little-known model Liu Wen when she was a fitting model for the magazine.

“It was at the end of 2006, I was doing some prep work for our anniversary December issue, then Joseph walked into the studio and saw Liu Wen,” said Cui. “He got very excited and asked me, ‘Who is she?’ I said she is just a new girl, and he said: ‘No, she is a star. The light loves her. I felt the same way when I first saw Linda Evangelista. We are going to shoot the entire issue with her!'”

He later put her on the cover of the magazine repeatedly and it kick-started her international modeling career. Carle called up his contacts in Paris to make sure top designers were aware of Liu’s arrival.

“In 2006, I met my most important mentor in my life,” Liu wrote on Weibo. “When I can’t express myself in French, I can always feel what you are trying to express. It was you who kept encouraging me to be myself behind the camera, to learn more about the industry, and be confident. No matter how many years have passed and where you are, I will always remember your encouragement, your support, your mentor, and your smile. I will miss you forever Joseph Carle.”

Carle later joined Modern Media in Shanghai in 2010 and launched the Chinese editions of Numéro and Numéro Homme. Liu also appeared on the cover of the launch issue.

Xiao Xue, former editor in chief of Elle China for 14 years, who used to work with Carle at Hachette Filipacchi, told WWD that he was one of the ex-pats who helped shape the modern Chinese fashion publication landscape.

“I was very impressed with his hard-working attitude and child-like characteristics. He nurtured a generation of fashion editors and creatives during his post at Hachette Filipacchi and Modern Media, and he discovered Liu Wen. He was a treasure to us all.”
source | wwd
 
September Issues Will Be Exactly What They Say on the Cover
This Year
Magazine publishers are pushing back the newsstand release date of the most important issue of the year to September instead of August due to the coronavirus.


Kathryn Hopkins

In the world of glossy fashion magazines, September is actually August, but this year the September issues will do just what they say on the cover.

Some publishers are pushing back the release dates of their most crucial issues of the year from August to September, allowing more time for ads and samples to roll in. It will also give editors additional time to shoot models and celebrities, a task that has been difficult to carry out during lockdown.

“Our September issues will come out in September — something I’ve wanted to do for years,” said Carol Smith, the publisher of Hearst’s Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire and Elle. For Marie Claire, that means Sept. 1 and for Elle and Bazaar, Sept. 8. Subscriber and digital issues tend to arrive a few days earlier. Usually the newsstand September issues are released in mid- to late August.

“When we started talking to Italy [in mid-May] only a handful [of brands] had shot their campaigns….so on that side giving them more time to create their ads for sure, but on the edit side giving our editors more time to get in their samples,” Smith added.

With many factories, warehouses and offices around the world closed for the past couple of months due to the coronavirus outbreak, brands have struggled to produce clothes and accessories, let alone the opulent, expensive ads that often involve a small army of photographers, stylists and makeup artists.

But with Italy gradually unlocking, some companies are beginning to act. Max Mara recently shot its campaign, styled by Carine Roitfeld, who traveled from Paris to Milan by car for the project. Others have turned to virtual shoots.

Nevertheless, Smith acknowledged that it will be a tough year. “While I believe very strongly that fashion and luxury will recover, it’s going to be a tough 2020. [Brands] have to make up for lost ground,” she said.

In terms of ads, only around three brands have told Smith they won’t advertise in September. Others are scaling back their usual spend. “In fashion, you know in September Saint Laurent needs six pages. Well, maybe they’re going to run four in an issue. So, yes, there’s going to be a slight scale back. We have anticipated it and certainly projected that.”

In the long-gone heyday of magazine publishing, September issues were as thick as a telephone book, jam-packed with ads from luxe retailers. But in recent times they have become thinner and thinner as brands move some of their ad spend elsewhere, either to their own or other digital channels. The pandemic appears to be accelerating the trend, with nearly every media outlet reporting shrinking ad revenues despite record engagement in many cases.

WWD’s previous research of 2019’s September ads found that Vogue scored the most at 356 pages, or 59 percent of the book, although this was down from 427 pages in 2009, when the country was mired in recession, and from 562 pages in 1999. In second place was Bazaar, which had 222 pages of ads, or 55 percent of the book. In 2009, there were 276 pages and in 1999, there were 325 ad pages in that magazine’s September issues.

For Vogue, to which its September issue is so important there was a whole documentary about the 2007 edition that weighed close to five pounds, the newsstand release date is also early September. Last year’s September issue was available on newsstands in New York and L.A. on Aug. 13, and nationwide Aug. 20.

It’s understood this is also to allow the magazine, which once used to set the agenda for the entire fashion industry in its September issue, to give its brand partners more time, as well as staffers producing content. Such a move by Vogue and the other titles could also align with the reopening of more retail stores. Otherwise they would be telling readers about the new fashion trends that they wouldn’t be able to go out and buy — at least in a store.

Elsewhere at Condé, which has implemented two rounds of cuts as it grapples with falling advertising due to COVID-19, Vanity Fair, more general interest but still reliant on luxury advertising, seems to be sticking closer to its usual schedule of August, with plans to release its September issue at the end of that month.

At Meredith Corp.’s InStyle, publisher Agnes Chapski did not provide WWD with a release date for September, but said: “For the September issue specifically, we plan to be flexible with our production schedule to accommodate the creative challenges our marketing partners are having as a result of the pandemic.” It usually hits newsstands mid-August and, according to a media kit, that was also the original plan for 2020.

InStyle is the only fashion magazine that has stuck to its 12-month publishing schedule. Marie Claire, Bazaar and Elle each will have one summer issue, while Vogue combined June and July amid advertising and producing concerns. The latter plans to make the missing issue up with a bonus holiday edition.

“I’m really proud of that,” InStyle editor in chief Laura Brown told WWD earlier this month about the magazine’s 12 issues. “Everyone has their reasons or their schedules and their economics and I’m not going to speak to other companies, but we’re doing it.”

At the time, Brown was hoping InStyle could start shooting during the first week of June. “I have a really, really, really, really, really, really big idea for September and we just pray we can shoot it and if we can’t, we shoot it when we can.”

The arrival of September magazines actually in September fits in with the growing consensus in the fashion industry that deliveries of new collections should be closer to their seasons — hence, fall clothes arrive in stores in the fall, and not in July. As for whether a later September issue will become the new norm in publishing, too, Hearst’s Smith hopes so. “I genuinely believe we should hold to this schedule and I think it does feel like finally fashion is going to change its delivery schedule and hopefully retailers will create new selling seasons so October isn’t when all of fall goes on sale.”
source | wwd
 
I suppose if brands should reset, so must magazines. Dropping the first week of the actual calendar month is ok. But the idea of a September issue dropping later in the month is ridiculous. They may as well close up shop then. Nobody, except us on here, will wait weeks on end for the release. People will forget the magazine still exist. Just like Vogue Turkey, which is completely off my radar.
 
Fashion Magazines Hit as Luxury Ad Spend Dwindles
Global fashion houses are slashing their marketing budgets by 30 to 80 percent to weather the economic fallout of the pandemic.


LONDON, United Kingdom — The coronavirus is taking a steep toll on magazines and newspapers that relied on Europe’s luxury brands as a last bastion of already dwindling advertising spending.

Stripped of a key source of revenue, fashion glossies have gone on a crash diet. Gone are the days when readers had to flip through dozens of ads for the likes of Cartier jewellery, Fendi handbags, Versace dresses or Breitling watches to get to the table of contents; now it’s just inside the cover.

With boutiques only beginning to reopen after weeks of shutdown and few people are in the mood to splash out, high-end brands have slashed ad budgets by 30 percent to 80 percent, according to digital-marketing agency Digital Luxury Group. The pandemic could hasten a shift to digital marketing by one of the last sectors to devote significant ad spending to newspapers and magazines.

“Nobody knows if luxury brands will go back to investing in print ads as much as before the pandemic,” said Digital Luxury Group Chief Executive David Sadigh. “We’re already seeing more flows into digital as it reduces costs. That’s set to continue the more brands build up e-commerce and as they seek more direct return and measurable results from media.”

Luxury brands committed 26 percent of their $2.9 billion ad spending in western Europe to newspapers and magazines last year, according to Publicis SA-owned media buying agency Zenith. That compares with 17 percent for overall advertising outlays.

French Elle

Chanel, Lancôme and Yves Saint Laurent perfumes are among the few big brands advertising in last week’s issue of French Elle. That compares with at least 26 pages of ads featuring well-known brands owned by luxury powerhouses Richemont, LVMH and Kering in the issue published on March 6, shortly before most of Europe and parts of the US started hunkering down at home.

L'Oréal SA, which makes Yves Saint Laurent lipstick and Giorgio Armani perfume, has been eliminating costs and investments that aren’t indispensable, including advertising spending during lockdowns.

“When stores are closed it doesn’t make sense to advertise products and it can be even frustrating to advertise products that consumers just cannot buy,” Chief Executive Jean-Paul Agon said April 16. L'Oréal said it will be ready to reinvest as soon as consumers can shop at stores again.

Burberry Group Plc Chief Executive Marco Gobbetti said last week that the British label is reinventing the way it communicates, focusing on reaching consumers more directly. A spokeswoman declined to comment on marketing spend.

LVMH’s Louis Vuitton didn’t entirely eliminate ads during the lockdowns but adjusted its product and travel themed marketing to acknowledge that distant shores were just a dream. Its print spots featured a shadowy shot of a child holding a kite against a seaside sunset, accompanied by a new slogan, “Imagination Takes Flight.”

Online Shift

With e-commerce the only option for many watch buyers, Swiss watchmaker Breitling shifted its focus from print ads to digital marketing during the lockdowns, a company spokeswoman said in an e-email. The publisher of Neue Zuercher Zeitung, one of the country’s largest newspapers, said watchmakers have been reluctant to advertise since the beginning of the crisis and that it faces high losses.

Although some brands have said they’ll restart advertising once stores open again, the near-term shortfall will worsen the plight of newspaper and magazine owners. The sector has already had to resort to job cuts and sales amid cash crunches.

As everything from job and apartment listings to editorial content moved online over the past decade, advertising income declined. Even billionaire Warren Buffett, who owns newspapers across the US, has called most “toast” because of the drop.

The consequences of the advertising revenue losses during the confinement period at magazines and newspapers are going to be the most severe for smaller, regional outlets, according to Ilias Koteas, executive director at non-profit European Magazine Media Association in Brussels. A spokeswoman for CMI Media, which distributes Elle in France, declined to comment.

“The print media sector was already struggling before Covid-19, and they’re going to struggle more now,” said Brian Wieser, global president of business intelligence at WPP Plc-owned media agency GroupM.

By Corinne Gretler
source | BoF
 
There's quite a bit of turmoil at Condé Nast today. The EIC of Bon Appétit has resigned after an old Halloween photo of him dressed as a Puerto Rican stereotype resurfaced. It's also been alleged that the only editors being paid for the hugely popular Test Kitchen videos were all white editors, whereas others, including all of the POC featured in Test Kitchen videos were only paid salary (and in some cases quite a low one). What does this have to do with The Fashion Spot? Well, the 2 main voices in this who are speaking out are calling it a Condé Nast issue, one of them called out Anna by name. I think we'll be seeing plenty more current and former staffers coming forward, particularly POC, and I think we'll see some shake-ups and replacements at other magazines as well, namely Vogue.
 
Not fashion and not really shocking, but this is extremely problematic for Condé Nast.
BA is one of their top sellers and always wins magazine awards every year.
You can google if you want to see the image, I didn’t see any reason to post it.

Condé Nast’s Bon Appétit Editor Adam Rapoport Resigns
The move comes hours after a photo of him dressed as a derogatory Puerto Rican stereotype resurfaced on social media, drawing condemnations from the staff.


By Kim Severson

Adam Rapoport, the editor in chief of Bon Appétit magazine, resigned on Monday, hours after an Instagram post of him and his wife, Simone Shubuck, dressed as derogatory Puerto Rican stereotypes resurfaced on Twitter.

In a statement on Instagram, he said he would “reflect on the work that I need to do as a human being and to allow Bon Appétit to get to a better place.” Mr. Rapoport, who was an editor at GQ before he took his current job in 2010, had been with the magazines’ parent company, Condé Nast, for 20 years.

The image in question, posted on Ms. Shubuck’s Instagram feed on Halloween in 2013, had briefly circulated on social media before. But it resurfaced on Monday morning amid a torrent of accusations, after a freelance writer posted screenshots of an old conversation with Mr. Rapoport about whether her work as a Puerto Rican food writer could find a “way in” to Bon Appétit.

In the Instagram caption, Ms. Shubuck called Mr. Rapoport “Papi,” and used #boricua, a word many Puerto Ricans use to identify themselves. The image was removed before noon.

Bon Appétit has faced continuing criticism of how it treats employees of color and presents food from a variety of cultures. Several members of its staff took to social media on Monday to call for Mr. Rapoport’s resignation and for better compensation and treatment of people of color on staff.

Staff members were called to at least two virtual meetings during the course of the day to discuss the photograph and other racial issues at the publication, according to people who attended the sessions. In one, Mr. Rapoport apologized, then left the call so staff members could discuss the matter. Most said he should resign, according to one journalist who was on the call but asked to not be identified because the discussion was supposed to remain confidential.

For their part, staff members said both on social media and in interviews that the photograph was only the latest in a series of missteps and poor treatment of people of color at the publication.

Sohla El-Waylly, an assistant editor at Bon Appétit who appears in test-kitchen videos, said in an Instagram story that she was “angered and disgusted” by the photograph and that people of color were not properly compensated.

“I’ve been pushed in front of video as a display of diversity,” she wrote. “In reality, currently only white editors are paid for their video appearances. None of the people of color have been compensated for their appearances.” She called for Mr. Rapoport’s resignation.

Molly Baz, a senior food editor at the publication, and Carla Lalli Music, the food editor at large, pledged to no longer be in Bon Appétit videos until Ms. El-Waylly and other people of color who appear on video were fairly compensated.

Other staff members were more circumspect.

“I’m likely courting internal reprimand, but I’m appalled and insulted by the EIC’s choice to embrace brownface in the photo making the rounds,” Joseph Hernandez, the research director for Bon Appétit, wrote in a tweet. “I’ve spent my career celebrating Black, Latinx, Indigenous, Asian, and POC voices in food, and this feels like an erasure of that work.”

In an interview, he said, “I’ve been in newsrooms for 15 years, and I’ve had a version of this conversation in each newsroom,” adding, “As a queer person of color, it’s exhausting to have the same conversation.”

The photograph of Mr. Rapoport re-emerged as racial-justice protests took place around the country and as the food-media industry has new, more heated discussions about white appropriation of the world’s cuisines — and about who should tell the stories of those traditions.

Publishers have started to look hard at race issues inside their own newsrooms. On Monday, the top editor of Refinery29, a women-focused publisher, stepped down after a number of employees came forward about their experiences of racial discrimination at the company.

Last week, employees of The New York Times widely criticized a decision by editors of the newspaper’s Op-Ed page to publish an essay by Senator Tom Cotton that called for a military response to quell civil unrest in American cities. Many of The Times’s black employees objected on social media, saying the essay “puts Black @NYTimes staff in danger.” On Sunday, James Bennet resigned from his job as editorial page editor.

Many food publications have been re-examining how they tell stories about food and who tells them. The Times recently grappled with insensitive comments made about the lifestyle writers Marie Kondo and Chrissy Teigen by the contributor Alison Roman, whose column the paper has temporarily suspended.

On Monday, an image of Ms. Roman from 2008 also appeared on Twitter; some commenters said it appeared to show her dressed as a parody of a woman from a Mexican-American subculture. Ms. Roman tweeted an apology, saying the outfit was a Halloween costume inspired by San Francisco and the singer Amy Winehouse. “It reads as culturally insensitive, and I was an idiot child who knew nothing about the world/how this would be perceived and I’m sorry.”

Jordan Cohen, executive director of communications at The Times, said editors were reviewing the matter.

Both Bon Appétit, whose test-kitchen videos have become a sensation, drawing millions of views, and Mr. Rapoport himself have been recent targets of criticism.

In January, The San Francisco Chronicle published a column by Soleil Ho, its restaurant critic, dissecting how Bon Appétit features people of color. Her conclusion: The magazine “could be much better when it comes to accurately and meaningfully representing the cuisines and cultures it purports to represent.”

Mr. Rapoport responded in a February column, saying the publication had “instituted a series of department-by-department meetings focusing on diversity” and set new diversity goals.

A subsequent column he posted on May 31 took on issues of race more directly. “In recent years, we at BA have been reckoning with our blind spots when it comes to race,” he wrote, adding that “we don’t have all the answers. We know we have work to do. Food has always been political whether we say it or not. Now is the time to say it.”

It was not well received on social media. For some staff members and readers, the column papered over issues of race and diversity during Mr. Rapoport’s editorship.

Alex Lau, an Asian-American journalist who photographed many of the magazine’s top restaurant features, recently resigned, in part because of such issues. “I left BA for multiple reasons, but one of the main reasons was that white leadership refused to make changes that my BIPOC co-workers and I constantly pushed for,” he wrote on Twitter on Monday, using an acronym for Black, Indigenous, People of Color.

“I’ve been quiet about this for so long, because I always thought that I could actually change the organization from within but I was wrong, and quite frankly I am so glad that the internet is going after BA and holding them accountable.”

Many other staff members expressed their dissatisfaction with Mr. Rapoport on social media, as did many freelance food writers and readers.

Priya Krishna, who has a contract with Bon Appétit and writes often for the Food section of The Times, has been part of a group of food journalists working on race and diversity issues at the magazine. She said seeing the image of Mr. Rapoport “was like a gut punch.” On Twitter, she wrote: “It erases the work the BIPOC on staff have long been doing, behind the scenes. I plan to do everything in my power to hold the EIC, and systems that hold up actions like this, accountable.”

This latest chapter began when Illyanna Maisonet, who until January wrote a column on Puerto Rican food for The San Francisco Chronicle, posted excerpts from a year-old exchange with Mr. Rapoport after an editor rejected her idea for a story about Puerto Rican food. Although Mr. Rapoport encouraged her and agreed that more Puerto Rican food needed to be featured on the magazine’s website, the text exchange was, she said, condescending.

“I sat on it for a year,” she said of the conversation, “because I didn’t think there was anything in it until all of this other stuff started coming up.”

As a publisher, Condé Nast hires mostly white editors and writers, many of whom come from privileged backgrounds and have graduated from elite colleges. Writers of color and of less-connected backgrounds have often found it difficult to get jobs or get freelance articles accepted.

On Monday morning, Tammie Teclemariam, who writes for several food and wine publications and The Wirecutter (which is owned by The Times), posted the image of Mr. Rapoport on Twitter and wrote, “I do not know why Adam Rapoport simply doesn’t write about Puerto Rican food for @bonAppétit himself!!!”

The Instagram photo was sent to her in direct messages by two other people in the food media, she said.

“If I know this, why didn’t everyone at Bon Appétit know this or do they? If two people sent it to me I can’t imagine they didn’t,” she said. “I was calling for him to be fired all weekend long. He is so endemic of these Condé Nast Graydon Carter old magazine values. This is the summer we’re calling people out.”
source | nytimes
 
There's quite a bit of turmoil at Condé Nast today. The EIC of Bon Appétit has resigned after an old Halloween photo of him dressed as a Puerto Rican stereotype resurfaced. It's also been alleged that the only editors being paid for the hugely popular Test Kitchen videos were all white editors, whereas others, including all of the POC featured in Test Kitchen videos were only paid salary (and in some cases quite a low one). What does this have to do with The Fashion Spot? Well, the 2 main voices in this who are speaking out are calling it a Condé Nast issue, one of them called out Anna by name. I think we'll be seeing plenty more current and former staffers coming forward, particularly POC, and I think we'll see some shake-ups and replacements at other magazines as well, namely Vogue.

Like you said, KofV it’s so much more than just that image.
Sh!t is going down at Condé Nasty.
People are coming forward and speaking out on twitter.
It’s gonna be a long hot summer in magazine land.
 
The rest...
Consistent with that, we go to great lengths to ensure that employees are paid fairly, in accordance with their roles and experience, across the entire company. We take the well-being of our employees seriously and prioritize a people-first approach to our culture. (2/2)

^PR BS. It literally doesn’t mean anything.
 
Like you said, KofV it’s so much more than just that image.
Sh!t is going down at Condé Nasty.
People are coming forward and speaking out on twitter.
It’s gonna be a long hot summer in magazine land.

Not just Conde, considering this thread from a former Hearst-Cosmo writer:

 
Not just Conde, considering this thread from a former Hearst-Cosmo writer:

Absolutely, it’s not just Condé Nast.
It’s the entire fashion industry.
It’s incredibly brave of @prachigu and anybody else to speak out.
 
I completely forgot that Rapaport used to be the style editor of GQ.

Bon Appétit editor-in-chief Adam Rapoport resigns after brown face photo sparks anger

New York (CNN Business) — Bon Appétit editor in chief Adam Rapoport stepped down on Monday over accusations of bias and a discriminatory culture at the Condé Nast-owned food magazine.

Last week, after Rapoport wrote a post for the Bon Appétit website about the protests sparked by George Floyd's death, food writer Korsha Wilson took to Twitter and accused the company of gaslighting women of color. On Monday, many more accusations emerged online, sparked in part by a 2013 Instagram photo of Rapoport in brown face for Halloween.

By the end of a day in which the food media world had been filled with discussions about the magazine's culture and the inclusion or lack of diverse voices in the industry, several of Bon Appétit's staff members had either said publicly that they would stop appearing in the magazine's popular videos until changes were made or posted that they had called for his resignation.

On Monday evening, Rapoport announced his resignation. "I am stepping down as editor in chief of Bon Appétit to reflect on the work that I need to do as a human being and allow Bon Appétit to get to a better place," Rapoport posted on his Instagram.

The controversy brings new attention to the problem of representation in food media. And it will also be a blow for the magazine and Condé Nast, which had recently counted Bon Appétit as a surprise success story, especially with the younger audiences magazines are desperate for.

Last month, Bon Appétit won four awards at the American Society of Magazine Editors' National Magazine awards including general excellence for service and lifestyle. Beyond the print magazine, the brand has grown a successful YouTube channel..

"As a global media company, Condé Nast is dedicated to creating a diverse, inclusive and equitable workplace. We have a zero-tolerance policy toward discrimination and harassment in any forms. Consistent with that, we go to great lengths to ensure that employees are paid fairly, in accordance with their roles and experience, across the entire company. We take the well-being of our employees seriously and prioritize a people-first approach to our culture," said Condé Nast chief communications officer Joe Libonati.

Among the magazine staffers who called out Rapoport was assistant food editor Sohla El-Waylly. In a Story on her Instagram Monday, El-Waylly said she is only making $50,000 and said only white editors were paid to appear in the magazine's videos, while she was not despite an increasing presence in the videos and a number of fans.

Bon Appétit contributor Priya Krishna retweeted the Instagram post of Rapoport in brown face and wrote, "This is f---ked up, plain and simple. It erases the work the BIPOC on staff have long been doing, behind the scenes. I plan to do everything in my power to hold the EIC, and systems that hold up actions like this, accountable."

Senior food editor Molly Baz, a star of the YouTube channel, said in an Instagram Story that she will not appear in videos until the company guarantees equal pay.

Alex Lau, a former staff photographer, tweeted that one of the reasons he left Bon Appétit was the lack of support for people of color and a problem getting leadership to listen about issues of representation.

Condé Nast appointed Rapoport editor in chief of Bon Appétit in 2010. He was previously style editor at GQ and had been working at the magazine conglomerate since 2000.

Rapoport did not respond to a request for comment.
source | cnn
 
I do agree that there's a diversity problem in CN. You see how they're slowly starting to put men at the helm of women's magazines? You see how male editors, considering today's SJW standards, can do anything with impunity, while female editors get sacked even without the slightest controversy?

1. Vogue Arabia literally faced backlash over HRH Princess Hayfa Bint Abdullah Al Saud cover where she was driving, and yet Manuel Arnaut is still at the helm.

2. Vogue Italia and Gigi Hadid faced backlash over the alleged blackface cover, and yet Emanuele Farneti is still at the helm. Couple that with the fact that he gets away with producing trash (White cover, Our New World covers, and all the other covers he produced)

3. Tatler literally outraged Kensington Palace and there's an impeding lawsuit, and yet Richard Dennen remains at the helm.

4. Vogue Ukraine's Olga Sushko was fired for plagiarizing her editor's letters.

5. Vogue Arabia's Princess Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz was fired because of the scandal around her inaugural issue and "management conflict"

6. Vogue Russia's Aliona Doletskaya and Victoria Davydova were both unceremoniously fired just because they're underperforming.

These may be anecdotal to some, but I just feel like women editors are held to higher standard than male editors. This applies to the management, and how all of them and their work are perceived by the public. US Vogue produces a decent cover, gets bashed. Farneti makes a blank cover, gets media coverage and the stamp of approval of SJWs.
 
Ugh, I've been such a fan of the BA Test Kitchen series and whenever Rapoport appeared, you could tell that the air in the room changed. It was obvious that he is an as*hole. And even more troubling than his personal missteps (including when he called Priya "Sohla"; just eye roll inducing, and a very clear sign of what was happening) is the fact that the likes of Sohla, Priya, Rick - I assume Christina as well - weren't paid for their appearances, which became nearly regular for the past year, and neither of them really got their own series. People were literally commenting that Sohla needs to have one under every single video she appeared in, she is very well liked. But, Conde Nast.
 
Sohla is one of my favorites (along with Carla, Claire, Chris, and Christina) and I’m surprised she wasn’t getting paid something additional for the videos, since she’s quite popular. I guess she’s only been with BA for 10 months and her first video was 6 months ago so she didn’t have leverage? Some others have been with the magazine for years and it was their personalities that built the Test Kitchen series into a smash success. They’ve probably had annual raises or a chance to renegotiate their contracts, no longer just as an employee but as a successful quasi-celebrity. Sohla hasn’t had that yet. I do want to hear an official explanation and see the receipts, though. Some of the Test Kitchen chefs (Claire, Carla, probably others) aren’t salaried employees at the magazine, they just do the videos and then contribute to the magazine on a project by project basis. So it makes sense they’re getting paid for videos. But if there are White salaried employees getting paid for video appearances and none of the salaried employees who are POC are getting paid for video appearances, clearly there’s an issue.

And yeah, Rapaport is vile and I’m thrilled this has happened to him.
 

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