The Business of Magazines

I'm still in shock that there's so much interest in Harper's Bazaar on here. Proof that Vogue's globalisation effort will be the final nail in their coffin.

Well, HB has been in a certain way the first one to test the globalisation of their publication with having Carine Roitfeld. It had no impact, most of the time the weakest editorial and no cohesive at all.

Vogue with their strategy put a toll on themselves by losing this uniqueness and HB is ready to fill the void.

CN thought the issue was that some Vogue editions had low sales because their POV was weak but the truth is people just buy less magazines. Their loss at this point.

because now they are irrelevant. People check Vogue and move on quickly.
 
I'm still in shock that there's so much interest in Harper's Bazaar on here. Proof that Vogue's globalisation effort will be the final nail in their coffin.

The thing about Bazaar is that, as horrendous as some of the editions are (as well as their covers), each edition maintained its identity.
 
When a magazine is filled with reprinted content that originated elsewhere, you're saving money, but the long-term cost is the loss of direct communication with each area's readership. Vogue is trying to plaster over the gaps by coming up with regional cover stories, but then a second problem enters the room - none of those cover stories will be allowed to overshadow what goes on with US/UK Vogue. Those editions are forced to limp along in the wake of whatever has been decided for the only two Western editions that seem to count.

I get the idea of using a cover story to gain worldwide attention via social media - but if that were the main strategy, the "firsts!" would be shared out across ALL the regional titles. French Vogue would get a moment to globally shine, German Vogue would get its turn for a worldwide exclusive, and so on. But the headlines will not be shared.

So your first problem is a combination of economic/creative decisions that attempt to speak a generalised audience rather than thoughtfully reach out to a real one, and the second one sees specific publications being used as a vehicle for promotion. And both of those situations demonstrate that the readership is not the foremost consideration - the readership is shunted into second or third place.
 
I’m so old that remember when American Vogue was American. I remember when British, Italian and French Vogue were actually British, Italian and French. Hell, I remember when other magazines existed outside of Vogue, Bazaar or Elle. I remember when Ladies Home Journal and Redbook put models on it’s covers.
 
Hunger Magazine Relaunches With Focus Beyond Fashion – WWD

LONDON — Hunger, the biannual fashion magazine founded by photographer Rankin, has relaunched for the spring 2023 “Call to Action” issue with a focus on long reads about local and global issues.

Calling the new issue “the start of our role to inform and inspire change,” Rankin said the magazine shifted its focus because “our readers are experiencing the very real-life consequences of questionable government decisions and have become hungry for knowledge on the topics around activism and injustice — our relaunch issue tells them that we’re here to feed that hunger.”

Devinder Bains, editorial director of Hunger, added that the magazine has been “on an organic trajectory over the last year to cover more serious reads that tackle subjects such as activism, politics, climate change, human rights and so much more. A relaunch felt like a good way to freshen the look of the magazine and also make a statement about how invested we are in bringing readers the stories of inspiring changemakers as well as a digestible look at national and geopolitical issues.

She said the magazine will continue to offer content on fashion, beauty, celebrity and the arts, as well as championing up-and-coming creative talents.

Highlights in the new issues include a cover story on Brit and Mercury nominee Loyle Carner, who talked about knife crime, identity and the joy that can be found in neurodivergence, as well as a focus on American rapper Joey Bada$$, who talked candidly about his homeland’s endless problems with gun violence.
 
Graydon Carter and Linda Wells Launch Air Mail Look – WWD

Graydon Carter’s Air Mail is launching a beauty title, its first editorial expansion since the launch of the digital publication in 2019. Air Mail Look will publish monthly and be edited by Linda Wells, Air Mail’s beauty columnist since 2021 and founding editor of Allure magazine.

Air Mail Look will land in subscribers in boxes on the first Friday of every month with a mix of investigations, reported pieces and columns covering the gamut of the beauty and wellness industry including makeup, skin care, fitness, sex, sleep and mental health. Wells will also occasionally contribute pieces, with stories from Air Mail staffers and freelance commissions. Wells’ Eye of the Beholder column will continue to appear within Air Mail. Like the flagship title, each issue of Look will have a single advertising sponsor; Tom Ford Eyewear is the inaugural issue advertiser.

“We want to uphold the Air Mail [standard] of really going deep into a subject and exploring in a way that is not really common in [the beauty] world,” Wells explained. “The audience for beauty used to be very specific. And now it’s Silicon Valley billionaires trying to bio-hack their way into a long life and flat abs. Everybody seems to be engaged in this subject in some way or another.”

Air Mail raised $17 million in series B funding in 2021 in order to propel an expansion that will eventually include multiple editorial verticals, podcasts and possibly a book imprint. Carter told WWD that readers can expect to see more verticals coming online in the fall. Additionally, Arts Intel Report, an arts and culture search engine, is “getting a major retrofit and will be available to readers by the summer.”

The success of Wells’ column — which averages more than 250,000 page views and is consistently among the Air Mail’s top five stories in views, unique visitors and time spent — was the catalyst for Air Mail’s first editorial vertical.

“Linda is a double threat,” Carter said. “A funny, engaging and informed writer and a brilliant editor. We plan to build all our new titles around editors. And in her field, there is none better or more followed than Linda. Without her, we would never have created Look.”

In her Eye of the Beholder column — which mixes reportage and journalistic skepticism with product endorsement and wry ruminations on the psychology of beauty — Wells has delved into the esoteric world of perfume-making, the pursuit of sleep in an anxious world and the microbiome skin care trend whose most dedicated adherents eschew almost all soap.
 
Drake, 21 Savage Settle With Conde Nast, McQueen’s Female Role Models – WWD

DRAKE SETTLES: How much is a Vogue cover worth? Drake and 21 Savage have just found out.

Condé Nast has settled a trademark infringement lawsuit against Drake and 21 Savage after the rappers and their communications firm, Hiltzik Strategies, launched a fake press tour complete with a Vogue cover featuring the duo.

In the suit, filed last November in the Southern District of New York, Condé Nast sought $4 million in statuary damages and treble damages tied to the rappers’ profits from “Her Loss.”

The campaign, designed to mimic a whirlwind promotional tour that often accompanies album releases, also included fake posters in New York City and other metropolitan areas, while physical copies of the fake magazine also were distributed. 21 Savage appeared in a fake interview for Vogue’s “What’s in My Bag” series. And Drake name-checked Anna Wintour in an Instagram post that included a photograph of the Vogue chief.


The campaign also included fake appearances on “Saturday Night Live,” NPR and Howard Stern’s interview program.

Condé Nast won an injunction against Drake and 21 Savage days after the suit was filed. At the time, a federal judge in Manhattan agreed with Condé Nast’s claims that the campaign was not authorized to use the Vogue trademark and ordered the rappers and Hiltzik Strategies to remove the offending material from all social channels. Damages were not addressed at the time of the injunction.

Terms of the settlement were not disclosed, but Condé Nast general counsel Will Bowes noted in an internal memo obtained by WWD that the “monetary settlement” would “bolster our ongoing creative output, including Vogue editorial.”

Condé Nast was alone in pursuing legal action for the stunt, while other media brands coopted for the campaign seemed to take it in stride. And the fake Vogue cover did manage to fool social media users and some media outlets, which reported that Drake and 21 Savage were indeed Vogue’s latest cover stars.

The publisher had initially issued a cease and desist letter in an effort to get the rappers and Hiltzik Strategies to remove the material. A representative for Hiltzik Strategies declined to comment.

But, said Bowes in the memo, “our outreach efforts were repeatedly ignored. Instead, they went ahead using the Vogue name to print a fake edition and cover of Vogue, along with out-of-home marketing assets and globally disseminated social and video posts.”

“As a creative company, we of course understand our brands may from time to time be referenced in other creative works,” he continued. “In this instance, however, it was clear to us that Drake and 21 Savage leveraged Vogue’s reputation for their own commercial purposes and, in the process, confused audiences who trust Vogue as the authoritative voice on fashion and culture.” — MARISA GUTHRIE
 
I wonder how much the half of the problem in the decline is the service. Having been subscribed to numerous publications, in America they come with no packaging whatsoever, now I think generally this isnt an issue as I haven't had any problems where it came to me damaged, but in terms of subscribing internationally the experience is horrible. When I was subscribed to vogue paris, it was always late, damaged or just never came at all, it was packaged in thin plastic no care given at all. Recently I bought directly from Vogue Poland, and it came damaged but they did package in a padded envelope, however never got response in terms of trying to get a refund or a replacement copy. Had to get refunded through my payment processor. It is just these experiences I've had that make me wonder how much they would be in better shape if the service wasn't terrible.
 
Any news on the debut issue of Numero Brasil? Giovanni Frasson (former fashion director of Vogue Brasil) is the EIC.
 

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