The Business of Magazines

Karlie Kloss’ i-D Magazine Taps British Vogue’s Michiel Steur as Chief Commercial Officer

British Vogue’s vice president of brand revenue, Michiel Steur, is stepping down to join i-D Magazine as its chief commercial officer, WWD has learned.
He will remain at Condé Nast for another three months finishing his notice period and start his new role in late October.

i-D Magazinehas been undergoing changes since Karlie Kloss acquired it last year through her company, Bedford Media, where she’s chairwoman.

“Joining i-D as chief commercial officer is a tremendous honor, and a decision that was driven by the opportunity to lead and transform a dynamic and influential brand at a pivotal time,” said Steur in an interview.

“I-D has consistently been a platform for emerging talent in fashion and culture and this role will allow me to spearhead a new commercial strategy grounded in i-D’s legacy of celebrating creative communities, while embracing forward-thinking innovation,” he added.
Steur will report directly to Nicole Muniz, chief executive officer of Bedford Media. He will be working on existing platforms, such as the print magazine and digital website, which are both currently on pause, as well as new platforms that will be unveiled later in the year.

In February, i-D Magazine announced it would be launching a newsletter while it focuses on repositioning itself in the publishing world. The publication continues to post across its social media channels on Instagram, TikTok and YouTube.

That same month, editor in chief of i-D Alastair McKimm stepped down after five years in the role. It’s understood that his successor at the magazine will be named soon.

Steur started his career on the editorial arm of British GQ at the age of 19 then quickly moved to the commercial department working under the magazine’s then-publisher Vanessa Kingori and rising up the ranks steadily.

He joined British Vogue in 2018 with Edward Enninful‘s appointment as editor in chief and Kingori’s as publisher of the magazine.

His focus at British Vogue was honing the magazine’s commercial strategy and growing its revenue streams in new ways, as well as leading special projects and events strategy across British Vogue, GQ and Glamour U.K.

Working with British Vogue’s new editorial director, Chioma Nnadi, he helped deliver the highest-ever revenue for an April issue in the magazine’s British history, which also happened to be Nnadi’s first issue.

His departure is the latest in a summer shake up at Condé Nast, which also recently lost Glamour U.K.’s European editorial director Deborah Joseph after seven years at the helm of the women’s magazine.
 
This isn't about a fashion magazine, but I read an article about the video game magazine Game Informer shutting down after 33 years (pretty suddenly last week), which made it the longest running gaming magazine in the US. Maybe the only one left? Anyway. it made me remember that it's not just fashion magazines that are suffering. Another one bites the dust. 😞

 
After learning about the launch of Marie Claire in Colombia, I wondered what other magazines have launched in the post-covid era. So here's a little list just for fun. It's ordered by number of editions launched or launching.

Elle: 11 editions
Elle Men Brasil, since 2022
Elle Croatia, re-launched 2023 (originally from 2002 to 2022)
Elle Man Arabia, since 2023
Elle Switzerland, re-launched 2023 (originally from 1989 to 2
Elle Australia, re-launched 2024 (originally from 1990 to 2020)
Elle Malaysia, re-launching in 2024 (originally from 2014 to ?)
Elle Lithuania, since 2024
Elle Cote d'Ivoire, since 2024
Elle Luxembourg, since 2024
Elle Egypt, launching in 2024
Elle O'Bekiston, launching in 2024

L'Officiel: 6 editions
L'Officiel Ibiza, since 2022
L'Officiel Hommes Philippines, since 2022
L'Officiel Hong Kong, since 2024
L'Officiel Ukraine, resumed print publication 2024 (originally from 2001 to 2022)
L'Offiicel Hommes Vietnam, since 2024
L'Officiel Japan, re-launching in 2024 (originally from 2005 to 2008 and from 2015 to 2016)

Vogue: 5 editions
Vogue Netherlands, re-launched 2022 (originally from 2012 to 2021)
Vogue Philippines, since 2022
Vogue Ukraine, resumed print publication 2023 (originally from 2013 to 2022)
Vogue Adria, since 2024
Vogue Man Philippines, since 2024

Harper's Bazaar: 4 editions
Harper's Bazaar Italia, re-launched 2022 (originally from 1968 to 1997)
Harper's Bazaar Qatar, since 2022
Harper's Bazaar France, re-launched 2023 (originally from 1983 to 1991)
Harper's Bazaar Ukraine, re-launching in print soon (originally from 2008 to 2022)

Marie Claire: 3 editions
Marie Claire Serbia, since 2023
Marie Claire Colombia, since 2024
Marie Claire Germany, launching in 2024

Cosmopolitan: 2 editions
Cosmopolitan Australia, re-launched in 2024 (originally from 1973 to 2018)
Cosmopolitan Ukraine, re-launching in print soon (originally from 1999 to ?)

Grazia: 2 editions
Grazia Malaysia, launched in 2023
Grazia Singapore, launched in 2023

Others
Nylon, re-launched in 2024 (originally from 1999 to 2017)
Esquire Australia, re-launched in 2023 (originally as an insert in Men's Style which closed in 2017)
Icon France, since 2024
Numéro Switzerland, since 2024
 
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After learning about the launch of Marie Claire in Colombia, I wondered what other magazines have launched in the post-covid era. So here's a little list just for fun. It's ordered by number of editions launched or launching.

Elle: 11 editions
Elle Men Brasil, since 2022
Elle Croatia, re-launched 2023 (originally from 2002 to 2022)
Elle Man Arabia, since 2023
Elle Switzerland, re-launched 2023 (originally from 1989 to 2
Elle Australia, re-launched 2024 (originally from 1990 to 2020)
Elle Malaysia, re-launching in 2024 (originally from 2014 to ?)
Elle Lithuania, since 2024
Elle Cote d'Ivoire, since 2024
Elle Luxembourg, since 2024
Elle Egypt, launching in 2024
Elle O'Bekiston, launching in 2024

L'Officiel: 6 editions
L'Officiel Ibiza, since 2022
L'Officiel Hommes Philippines, since 2022
L'Officiel Hong Kong, since 2024
L'Officiel Ukraine, resumed print publication 2024 (originally from 2001 to 2022)
L'Offiicel Hommes Vietnam, since 2024
L'Officiel Japan, re-launching in 2024 (originally from 2005 to 2008 and from 2015 to 2016)

Vogue: 5 editions
Vogue Netherlands, re-launched 2022 (originally from 2012 to 2021)
Vogue Philippines, since 2022
Vogue Ukraine, resumed print publication 2023 (originally from 2013 to 2022)
Vogue Adria, since 2024
Vogue Man Philippines, since 2024

Harper's Bazaar: 4 editions
Harper's Bazaar Italia, re-launched 2022 (originally from 1968 to 1997)
Harper's Bazaar Qatar, since 2022
Harper's Bazaar France, re-launched 2023 (originally from 1983 to 1991)
Harper's Bazaar Ukraine, re-launching in print soon (originally from 2008 to 2022)

Marie Claire: 3 editions
Marie Claire Serbia, since 2023
Marie Claire Colombia, since 2024
Marie Claire Germany, launching in 2024

Cosmopolitan: 2 editions
Cosmopolitan Australia, re-launched in 2024 (originally from 1973 to 2018)
Cosmopolitan Ukraine, re-launching in print soon (originally from 1999 to ?)

Grazia: 2 editions
Grazia Malaysia, launched in 2023
Grazia Singapore, launched in 2023

Others
Nylon, re-launched in 2024 (originally from 1999 to 2017)
Esquire Australia, re-launched in 2023 (originally as an insert in Men's Style which closed in 2017)
Icon France, since 2024
Numéro Switzerland, since 2024
You forgot Número Brasil
 
@callmejaden I think InStyle Australia was relaunched in 2022. Harper's Bazaar Australia was shut down in 2020, then re-launched with a new publisher in 2021.

When did Perfect start? 2021?
 
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Tbh I applaud people who started / relaunch new magazines in this era, because are they even going to make a profit?? or is it some sort of money laundering scheme? lol
 

Condé Nast Inks Partnership With OpenAI​

The deal will allow content from Condé Nast publications, including Vogue and GQ, to be displayed on OpenAI’s platforms, including AI chatbot ChatGPT and a prototype version of SearchGPT.


The move is at odds with several other news organisations which see the technology company as a threat to their business as its language models are trained on copyrighted material. (Shutterstock)
By
20 August 2024

Condé Nast, the publisher of Vogue, Vanity Fair and GQ, has signed a multi-year partnership with artificial intelligence company OpenAI, according to an internal memo seen by BoF.
The deal will allow content from Condé Nast publications to be displayed on OpenAI’s platforms, including AI chatbot ChatGPT and a prototype version of SearchGPT. Through SearchGPT, OpenAI plans to integrate its conversation models with information from the web and direct links to news stories.
“As we all know, generative AI is rapidly changing ways audiences are discovering information,” said Condé Nast CEO Roger Lynch in the memo. “It’s crucial that we meet audiences where they are and embrace new technologies while also ensuring proper attribution and compensation for use of our intellectual property.”
In the memo, Lynch added that various technology companies in the past have “eroded publishers’ ability to monetise content” and that the partnership with OpenAI will “make up for some of that revenue.”

The move is at odds with several other news organisations, namely The New York Times and CNN, which see the technology company as a threat to their business as its language models are trained on copyrighted material. In December 2023, The New York Times sued OpenAI for copyright infringement.
Other publishers, such as the Associated Press, The Atlantic, Dotdash Meredith, Financial Times, and Voxmedia, however, have struck deals with the company.
“We’re committed to working with Condé Nast and other news publishers to ensure that as AI plays a larger role in news discovery and delivery, it maintains accuracy, integrity, and respect for quality reporting,” said Brad Lightcap, COO, OpenAI, in a statement.

Source: Bof
 

What Condé Nast’s Embrace of AI Means for Fashion Media​

The magazine publisher is licensing its content to OpenAI, even as other publishers sue the company. We’ll know soon enough which approach can provide a path forward for the media industry as the technology reshapes the internet.

Legacy media was slow to adapt to new technology but that is changing fast.

By
23 August 2024
BoF PROFESSIONAL

When it comes to artificial intelligence, Condé Nast seems to be taking an “if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em” approach.
This week, the publisher announced it had inked a partnership with OpenAI, the Microsoft-backed company behind ChatGPT. Going forward, content from Condé Nast publications — including Vogue, Vanity Fair and GQ — will appear on OpenAI’s platforms, including ChatGPT and a prototype version of the forthcoming SearchGPT.
In a memo announcing the partnership to Condé Nast staff, chief executive Roger Lynch wrote that it is a way to “make up for some of that revenue” that had been lost as tech companies “eroded publishers’ ability to monetise content.” He argued that in partnering with OpenAI, Condé Nast would be able to protect and invest in its journalism.
In some ways, Condé Nast is learning from past mistakes. Legacy media was slow to adapt to the internet, going back to the rise of Craiglist classified ads three decades ago. It’s only within the past decade that Condé Nast and its primary rival, Hearst, began meaningfully investing in their titles’ websites. That delay cost publishers dearly. Tech giants like Meta and Google began syphoning away their ad dollars. Even as media properties tried to use social media and search to their advantage, tech companies have implemented rapidly-changing strategies (remember the “pivot to video”?) that further impacted their bottom line.

From the moment ChatGPT was released nearly two years ago, media watchers conjured up similar visions of AI-generated content replacing traditional journalism (not to mention traditional marketing, traditional social media and countless other fields). While the internet is now awash in robot-written articles, Instagram ads and tweets, much of that content is error-ridden clutter.
That is changing fast. Google’s AI overview scrapes text from a publication’s website and condenses it into a bite-sized summary that displays on their results page. Start-ups like Perplexity offer AI-generated search results that negate the need to ever click a link; they’ll soon to be joined by OpenAI’s SearchGPT. Publishers have already found it’s had a negative impact on their traffic.
Teaming up with OpenAI could help Condé Nast get ahead of the curve. Supporters would argue that AI isn’t going anywhere, it’s better to figure out how to use it for your advantage — and nab a share of the revenue pie — early on.
Critics, however, might argue, Condé Nast’s new partnership is akin to getting into bed with the devil; they see deals with AI search engines as the pivot to video of the 2020s. Notably, The New York Times sued OpenAI for copyright infringement in December, arguing that the company used Times articles to train its large language models without the paper’s consent. This spring, a group of eight daily newspapers owned by Alden Global Capital, which includes the Chicago Tribune and the New York Daily News, sued OpenAI and Microsoft for the same reason. The Times case in particular promises to be a watershed moment for the future relationship between AI providers and media companies.
However, there is a middle ground between the routes taken by Condé Nast and The New York Times. Also this week, Axios reported that The Washington Post was investing in developing AI tools for its journalists. Vineet Khosla, the Post’s chief technology officer, said that the paper wanted to build these tools in-house because then they could create “a far superior product than just the general purpose stuff you get from Big Tech.” The idea being that the best way to outcompete AI is to offer quality journalism that can’t be found in an auto-summarised result spit out by SearchGPT or Perplexity. It’s safe to assume Condé Nast and the Times are exploring ways to use AI as well, even as they embrace or pick public fights with the technology’s leading names, respectively.
Over the next few years, the question of what to do about AI will demand answers. The best ones will be able to figure out how to use it to their advantage — but the jury’s still out on what that looks like.

Source: Bof
 

Allure Philippines is On Its Way​

vogue.ph

Next year, Allure Philippines will hit the shelves to provide Filipino audiences with the latest in beauty, fashion, and women’s health and wellness.​

By Daphne Sagan, 28 June 2024 Filipino readers can look forward to the launch of Allure Philippines, which is set to have its first issue in March 2025. The title will launch in English-language print, digital, and social platforms, and will be published under a license agreement with MEGA Global Licensing Inc. and Condé Nast.

Launched in 1991, Allure was founded by Vogue and New York Times writer and editor Linda Wells, who served as its editor-in-chief for 24 years. The title published its last print issue in December 2022 and transitioned fully to digital operations. Currently, the editorial team is headed by editor-in-chief Jessica Cruel.

The title prides itself for adherence to rigorous product testing and quality checks. In its About Page, it describes itself as striving to “bring you up-to-the-minute news and information—but our team believes in looking before jumping. In journalistic terms, this means we verify all information before passing it along to our readers and followers. To ensure anything and everything you read in Allure is accurate, reliable, and based firmly in science and expertise, we work only with leading experts in dermatology, plastic surgery, psychology, and other branches of medicine, as well as the industry’s top beauty professionals t. And when those experts disagree? We keep digging until we find consensus and the strongest guidance possible.”

The Philippine edition will also feature audience favorites such as Best of Beauty Awards, a list of top makeup, skincare, and haircare products on the market.


“At AGC Power Holdings Corp., the parent company of MEGA Global Licensing Inc., we are excited to be part of this groundbreaking launch that promises to redefine beauty standards and empowerment in the Philippines. As a company that strongly supports innovations and partnerships that resonate with local and global audiences, we see the introduction of Allure Philippines as a pivotal development in promoting inclusive beauty and wellness solutions that cater to the unique needs of the Filipino market,” says Archie Carrasco, chairman and CEO of MEGA Global Licensing, Inc.

Further announcements regarding the editorial team will come in the following months. To stay updated, you can sign up to be part of its newsletter at allure.ph or follow Allure Philippines on Instagram, Facebook, Tiktok, and Threads.
 

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