Miss Dalloway
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Thanks for posting the update, i think its a good replacement.Source | WWD
Thanks for posting the update, i think its a good replacement.Source | WWD
Rachel Zoe for Harper's Bazaar
Despite the recent Rachel Zoe/Anna Wintour fashion feud, Harper's Bazaar has had no qualms in taking in the stray fashionista. I guess editor-in-chief, Glenda Bailey, wants to cause a little ruckus in the fashion world. I overheard Ms. Bailey and another editor discussing a shoot styled by, da duh da duh, Ms. Zoe herself.
Will her first editorial styling gig put her up top with the likes of Brana Wolf or confirm that she should stick to dressing Hollywood starlets? My guess is...the latter. The issue should be out this fall.
xo
Launches in September 2008 from Condé Nast Japan
Published Bi-Annually
Fashion Director: Nicola Formichetti
Editor-In-Chief: Kazuhiro Saito
Art Director: Markus Kierszta
L'UOMO Vogue Turns 40
Vogue Italia editor in chief Franca Sozzani rolled out the red carpet for a party at Palazzo Litta on a balmy night in Milan Sunday to fete 40 years of L'Uomo Vogue and the glitterati came out in force. "It's been 40 years of collaboration," said Giorgio Armani, who was joined by a host of designers and fashion folk, including Eva and Roberto Cavalli, Diego Della Valle, Alessandra Facchinetti, Ferruccio Ferragamo, Alberta and Massimo Ferretti, Tom Ford, Angela Missoni, Robert Polet, Renzo Rosso, Donatella Versace, Vivienne Westwood and Anna Wintour. "I feel like L'Uomo Vogue is where I started," said Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati, who flew in for the event. "I'm [very pleased] about everything," Frida Giannini said. With Italy playing Spain in the quarterfinals of the European soccer championships, a room off the main courtyard was set aside for viewing, much to the relief of Santo Versace.
"Where are the big screens for the soccer?" he gasped as he entered the party. Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi of 6267 had other things on their minds, after signing for Ferré in April. "We are still working on the Ferré women's collection so we'll still have our grand debut to come," Aquilano said. Stars of the other big screen also put in an appearance, as did singer Janet Jackson and Naomi Campbell, Eva Herzigova and Claudia Schiffer. "I'm here to live it up," said Adrien Brody. Not so for Tilda Swinton, wearing YSL, who is currently filming "Io Sono l'Amore" with Italian director Luca Guadagnino. "I have to get up at 5 a.m. tomorrow so I'll be going to bed early tonight. We're filming in San Remo, which is three-and-a-half hours away," Swinton said. John Malkovich dropped in after some "meetings" in Milan and seemed to be suffering from the heat. "Am I an icon? I'm not so sure," Malkovich said, wearing a beige linen suit. "It's mine," he said of the suit. "At least I hope so. It was in my closet."
Gerard Butler was handling the temperature better. "I'm just about bearing up," Butler said. "I've been doing a load of photo shoots so I've had a lot of stuff on. It's difficult for a Scots boy like me." Butler was heading to Scotland on Tuesday en route back to his adopted home, America. "I'm actually off to the Highlands for a while to breathe some fresh air," he said.
COSMOGIRL'S NEW GUY: Photographer Matt Jones has been signed by Cosmogirl to shoot its covers, starting with the October 2008 issue. Jones has shot for Vogue, Elle, Interview, Esquire, iD and Spin. He will shoot exclusively for Cosmogirl in the teen category.
PHOTO SHOPPING: Anna Wintour appears to have another reason for being in Milan than the men's shows. The Vogue editor in chief is said to be working on a major photo exhibition to celebrate the magazine she took over in 1988. Letizia Moratti, mayor of Milan, helped Wintour find the right location — the medieval Palazzo della Ragione and its open gallery Loggia dei Mercanti, which is close to the Duomo cathedral, the mayor's spokeswoman said. The event, which is scheduled to take place during the women's shows next February, will highlight Vogue's photography from the Thirties to the Nineties through works by Irving Penn, Richard Avedon and Helmut Newton to Herb Ritts, Bert Stern, Bruce Weber, Annie Leibovitz, Peter Lindeberg and Mario Testino, among others
A Cover, 40 Pages, 4 Faces and One Perfume
By NATASHA SINGER
GLOSSY magazines and their advertisers enjoy cozy, often tangled relationships, but Harper’s Bazaar seems to have developed a new way of embracing a major sponsor.
High-fashion magazines typically dedicate a page or two — or even just a blurb — of editorial space to a new perfume. But the July issue of Bazaar, published by Hearst Communications Inc., devotes 40 of its editorial pages to four celebrities and models — Gwyneth Paltrow, Elizabeth Hurley, Carolyn Murphy and Hilary Rhoda — who also star in the advertising campaign for Sensuous, a new fragrance from Estée Lauder.
“Boy, they really sold out — Hearst — didn’t they?” said Allan Mottus, a beauty industry analyst who publishes the Informationist, a trade publication. Mr. Mottus added: “You have to take your hat off to Lauder. It is an enormous coup.”
John Demsey, a group president of the Estée Lauder Companies, said there was no quid pro quo for the expansive feature. The current issue of Bazaar contains no Lauder advertisements, although Sensuous ads are scheduled to run this fall. (Ads for the fragrance are already on the Web site of this newspaper.)
Glenda Bailey, the editor in chief of Bazaar, was unavailable for a telephone interview before press time, said Alexandra Carlin, the director of public relations for Hearst Magazines. But Ms. Carlin sent a statement from Harper’s Bazaar. It said, in part, “Like many magazines, we often feature celebrities to coincide with their beauty and fashion launches.”
Cosmetics brands are playing catch-up to fashion companies, which have long benefited from long articles and showy photo spreads in glossy magazines. The cover of the April issue of Nylon magazine showed the actress Chloë Sevigny and two models — all are the faces in a campaign for a Chloé perfume. An ad for the fragrance, featuring one of the models, ran on the back cover.
But this issue of Bazaar devotes prime editorial real estate to the Lauder spokesmodels. The package includes the magazine’s cover of Ms. Paltrow, 38 pages in the consecutive advertising-free section called “the well,” plus 2 pages in the beauty section.
The opening page of the well declares its intentions: “The faces of Estée Lauder’s new Sensuous fragrance wear the highlights of the FALL COLLECTIONS.”
The magazine’s Web site also features a video that Lauder plans to show at its cosmetics counters.
KIM-VAN DANG, a former beauty director at In Style and Good Housekeeping magazines, predicted that other companies will brandish Bazaar, demanding similar editorial attention.
“Advertisers have something to show now and say, ‘Why am I not getting this treatment?’ ” Ms. Dang said. She recently started a marketing firm, KVD NYC, and has consulted for Lauder. “In the current economy, I think advertisers have more muscle.”
The Estée Lauder conglomerate is the top seller of upscale women’s fragrances in the country, according to Karen Grant, the senior beauty analyst at the NPD Group, a market research firm. One Lauder fragrance, Beautiful, has been the best-selling women’s fragrance in American department stores every year since 2000, she said.
Even so, sales of upscale women’s scents declined to $1.97 billion last year from $2 billion in 2002, because many young women don’t buy fragrance, Ms. Grant said. Because of such attrition, brands are creating bolder strategies to attract new consumers.
For Sensuous, Lauder designed a Tom Ford-esque campaign in which each woman is photographed with a come-hither expression, unbuttoned white dress shirt, black knickers and tousled hair.
Mr. Demsey said he came up with the idea to include all four of Lauder’s fragrance faces in one issue of a magazine. He approached Bazaar because he thought the age diversity of the Lauder icons — Ms. Rhoda is a 21-year-old supermodel; Ms. Hurley, 43 — would appeal to the magazine, known for its monthly section “Fabulous at Any Age.”
“I said to Glenda, I said: ‘What if we did the reveal with you and took the four faces of Lauder and integrated them into one issue? We could secure you a cover and exclusivity,’ ” Mr. Demsey said. “Next, we lined up the talent.” (Even for luxury publications, Ms. Paltrow is considered a big get.)
Bazaar said in its e-mail statement that these four women frequently appear in the magazine; indeed, Ms. Paltrow has been on the cover several times.
And, the magazine suggested, cosmetic companies treat their product introductions like movie premieres. In other words, they hire stars and models who can land magazine covers and other media attention.
Mr. Mottus of the Informationist predicted more of the same.
“There is nothing either kosher or unkosher about what is going on,” Mr. Mottus said. “These are hard times in the prestige fragrance industry. It is advantageous for people to partner and make a larger statement than they could otherwise.”
The Editor Who Keeps Vogue In Fashion
Anna Wintour is the only fashion editor whose name is likely to be recognized by those who have never purchased a copy of Vogue but are close readers of the Economist.
The blogosphere and the mainstream media are filled with stories that fetishize her as a combination oracle and beneficent dictator, as well as those who see in her inscrutable public demeanor, her waifish physique and her wardrobe of Chanel and Prada the sum total of all that is wrong with the Western world.
She is, in effect, both fierce and to be feared. Which means that over the 20 years she has been at the helm of Vogue, she has become a cultural icon and so has her magazine.
Wintour will mark this extraordinary accomplishment in the publishing world by doing . . . nothing.
On June 29, 1988, the chairman of Conde Nast announced that Wintour, who had been the editor of HG, would take over at Vogue. Barely a week later, stories appeared detailing how she had orchestrated a coup forcing her predecessor, Grace Mirabella, out the door. Wintour's reputation for steely discipline and determination has only grown during her long tenure, reaching a breathless furor with the 2006 release of "The Devil Wears Prada," based on the revenge novel written by her onetime assistant. Wintour attended the film's New York premiere dressed in Prada, thus proving that the devil also has a sense of humor.
The magazine's circulation is 1.2 million, a Vogue spokesman said, essentially what it was when Wintour took over two decades ago. She came to represent a new archetype for a fashion editor: a master of the universe who wears her power as comfortably and impeccably as Chanel couture. It's an intimidating combination because it implies that she is a woman who is accomplished in the so-called masculine art of war and still knows how to use all the stereotypically feminine wiles. She is a double threat.
Wintour personifies the sort of woman who is celebrated in the pages of Vogue. It doesn't matter whether that woman's clout is on the social circuit, on the pop charts or in federal Washington, the magazine highlights her achievements, influence and always, always her style. Vogue doesn't play the role of best girlfriend in the manner of O, the Oprah Magazine, which invites readers to get together for ice cream, girl talk and book club. Vogue does not advocate book clubs. It is a magazine for women about whom books are written.
It does not include recipes for fat-free cookies or how-to guides for juggling a job with the kids' soccer practice. The only real evidence that Vogue readers have children is when well-groomed toddlers serve as background props in photo shoots or when young socialites are explaining why they've signed up for Pilates classes.
No other American fashion magazine exudes such an unapologetic, cool-girl, gloriously elitist attitude about style. It does not explain fashion or gently lead its readers into the next season. It is a monthly fix for those who understand the futuristic appeal of Balenciaga and the wry wit of John Galliano.
Vogue treats fashion the way that Sports Illustrated treats athleticism: as something glamorous and in need of neither explanation nor validation.
I worked at Vogue briefly in 2000, a fact that always elicits the question: What was it like? I'm well aware that the questioner is breathlessly awaiting tales of free clothes, frantic assistants and hissy fits over cerulean blue belts. I hesitate to spoil the fantasy, but during my short stay I never witnessed any toddler-size temper tantrums. My colleagues did improve my standard of dress, although by example, not by mandate or largess.
Wintour brought an unwavering point of view to Vogue, a complex blend of brains and beauty. Editors search for the hedge fund manager who wears Christian Dior, the lawyer who litigates in Dolce & Gabbana or the activist who's a dead ringer for Halle Berry. The magazine represents a combination of things that many women secretly want but are unwilling to admit to because they think they would be criticized as politically incorrect, shallow or frivolous.
Vogue is not politically correct. The magazine loves fur, after all. And it celebrates a slender physique. Sure, in its annual shape issue it applauds curves. Vogue has championed fashion industry initiatives to combat eating disorders among models. But Vogue will never endorse fat; it won't even pretend to. Heck, it just ran a story about how it paid for nutritionists and trainers to help two promising young designers lose weight . . . for their health.
During Wintour's tenure, Vogue has incorporated street trends into its pages. It has put its stamp of approval on what was once called hip-hop style and now is merely urban style. But it does so on its own terms, by, say, including Sean Combs in a couture fashion shoot as a Cary Grant type with a tan. (It struggles with bringing diversity to its pages, as do most fashion magazines.)
Vogue has never implied that celebrities are the same as everyone else. They may talk about their insecurities in the pages of the magazine but they are always pictured as glorious, rarefied creatures. Their style triumphs are heralded, not their afternoon outings to Starbucks.
The magazine is at its most provocative, though, when it turns its attention to personalities not typically associated with high fashion -- Oprah Winfrey, Laura Bush, Hillary Clinton, Michelle Obama, Cindy McCain, Condoleezza Rice. The resulting photographs are fascinating not because of any reality they reveal but because of the fantasy they unleash.
Vogue sets its sights on an of-the-moment character and transforms her into an impossibly perfect version of herself. In the accompanying story, her accomplishments are detailed: Her charitable acts. Her legislative successes. Her business acumen. But the primary photo rarely illustrates all that brainy, do-gooder activity. The photo is pure glamour.
It taps into that core desire to be gorgeous and declares it righteous and worthy and, most important, smart. Vogue validates the modern careerist's fantasy, that she can run the world and look fabulous doing it.
Couture Counter
Harper's Bazaar out in full force; Elle flies solo
Monday, June 30, 2008
(PARIS) Couture is officially underway and edit
ors are making the rounds. But Fashion Week Daily couldn't help but notice an attendance disparity. We spotted four Harper's Bazaar staffers at Armani Privé including Glenda Bailey, Stephen Gan, Kristina O'Neill and Nicole Fritton, while Elle magazine had a sole editor there-Kate Lanphear. As of last week The Daily heard from an Elle senior staffer that they weren't covering couture but Lanphear, who was seated third row, is staying at Le Maurice. Not too shabby!
PHOTO SHOPPING: Anna Wintour appears to have another reason for being in Milan than the men's shows. The Vogue editor in chief is said to be working on a major photo exhibition to celebrate the magazine she took over in 1988. Letizia Moratti, mayor of Milan, helped Wintour find the right location — the medieval Palazzo della Ragione and its open gallery Loggia dei Mercanti, which is close to the Duomo cathedral, the mayor's spokeswoman said. The event, which is scheduled to take place during the women's shows next February, will highlight Vogue's photography from the Thirties to the Nineties through works by Irving Penn, Richard Avedon and Helmut Newton to Herb Ritts, Bert Stern, Bruce Weber, Annie Leibovitz, Peter Lindeberg and Mario Testino, among others
Clay Felker, Magazine Pioneer, Dies at 82
Clay Felker a visionary editor who was widely credited with inventing the formula for the modern magazine, giving it energetic expression in a glossy weekly named for and devoted to the boisterous city that fascinated him — New York — died on Tuesday at his home in Manhattan. He was 82.
His death was of natural causes, said his wife, the author Gail Sheehy. He had throat cancer in his later years.
Mr. Felker edited a number of publications besides New York magazine. There were stints at Esquire, The Village Voice, Adweek and others. He also created an opposite-coast counterpart to New York and called it New West.
But it was at New York that he left his biggest imprint on American journalism. He had edited the magazine when it was a Sunday supplement to The New York Herald Tribune founded in 1964. Four years later, after the newspaper had closed, Mr. Felker and the graphic designer Milton Glaser reintroduced New York as a glossy, stand-alone magazine.
New York’s mission was to compete for consumer attention at a time when television threatened to overwhelm print publications. To do that, Mr. Felker came up with a distinctive format: a combination of long narrative articles and short, witty ones on consumer services. He embraced the New Journalism of the late ’60s: the use of novelistic techniques to give reporting new layers of emotional depth. And he adopted a tone that was unapologetically elitist, indefatigably trendy and proudly provincial, in a sophisticated, Manhattan-centric sort of way. The headlines were bold, the graphics even bolder.
The look and attitude captured the attention of the city and influenced editors and designers for years to come. Dozens of city magazines modeling themselves after New York sprang up around the country.
Mr. Felker’s magazine was hip and ardent, civic-minded and skeptical. It was preoccupied with the foibles of the rich and powerful, the fecklessness of government and the high jinks of wiseguys. But it never lost sight of the complicated business and cultural life of the city. Articles were often gossipy, even vicious, and some took liberties with sources and journalistic techniques.
A National Profile
Tom Wolfe, Jimmy Breslin, Gloria Steinem and others in Mr. Felker’s stable of star writers helped give the magazine national prominence. Meanwhile, what he called its “secret weapon,” its service coverage — on where to eat, shop, drink and live — kept many readers coming back.
Mr. Felker eventually lost New York magazine to Rupert Murdoch in a bitter takeover battle in 1977. But his influence can still be felt in the current magazine, from its in-crowd tone to its ubiquitous infographics and inventive typography tailored to each article.
“American journalism would not be what it is today without Clay Felker,” Adam Moss, New York’s current editor, said in a statement yesterday. Mr. Felker, he once said, “was obsessed with power, and he invented a magazine in the image of that obsession,” one that “reported on the secret machinations of the city’s players.”
Mr. Felker’s roster of writers also included Ken Auletta, Julie Baumgold, Steven Brill, Elizabeth Crow, Gael Greene, Nicholas Pileggi, Richard Reeves, Dick Schaap, Mimi Sheraton and John Simon. Many of them called him the best editor in the country, although some said he was autocratic and took joy in hectoring and humiliating them.
“His voice, his personality, his superhuman animation were horrifying, of course, but they were also the best part of working with him,” Ms. Crow, who later became editor of Mademoiselle and who died in 2005, wrote in 1975. “Clay’s booming tenor voice was simply the most noticeable manifestation of the 100 percent in-your-face and in-your-ears and in-your-brain atmosphere he created wherever he went.”
The supercharged atmosphere of New York was a long way from Webster Groves, Mo., where Clay Schuette Felker, born on Oct. 2, 1925, grew up. (His German immigrant forebears had changed their name from von Fredrikstein to Volker and later anglicized it as Felker.) Journalism ran in his family. His father, Carl, was the managing editor of The Sporting News; his mother, Cora Tyree Felker, had been women’s editor of The St. Louis Post-Dispatch before having children.
After enrolling at Duke University, Mr. Felker left college for a three-year hitch in the Navy before returning to graduate in 1951. At Duke he edited the undergraduate newspaper and married Leslie Aldridge, another undergraduate. The marriage ended in divorce, as did his second marriage, to Pamela Tiffin, an actress.
In 1984 he married Gail Sheehy, who first wrote for him at The Herald Tribune and who later became widely known as the author of “Passages” and other books.
After college, Mr. Felker was a reporter for Life magazine for six years and worked on the development of Sports Illustrated. He later became features editor of Esquire but quit when his rival, Harold Hayes, got the top job. In 1963 he joined The Herald Tribune and became founding editor of the supplement called New York.
A Debut Hits the Stands
When he and Mr. Glaser rolled out the revamped, stand-alone version in 1968, the reviews were mixed. “Though occasional critics find New York excessively slick and too often frivolous, the magazine undeniably generates excitement — an excitement that is winning readers not just in Manhattan but in urban centers across the country,” Newsweek said in 1970.
Others were less impressed. “Boutique journalism,” Mr. Breslin called it when he quit the magazine in 1971, fed up, he said, with its dilettante attitude. Ms. Steinem was bothered by the magazine’s East Side orientation. “When the city is falling apart, we are writing about renovating brownstones,” she said.
But Ms. Steinem stayed on as a staff writer and was rewarded when Mr. Felker helped her and others start the feminist magazine called Ms. He inserted a 40-page preview of Ms. in New York’s issue of Dec. 20, 1971, and helped finance the first issue.
Many of Mr. Felker’s writers followed him from The Herald Tribune. One, Mr. Wolfe, the magazine’s most visible stylist, shared many of Mr. Felker’s views and thrived on the freedom his boss gave him to write satiric, sometimes savage articles about what became known as the New Society.
“Together they attacked what each regarded as the greatest untold and uncovered story of the age — the vanities, extravagances, pretensions and artifice of America two decades after World War II, the wealthiest society the world had ever known,” Richard Kluger wrote in his book “The Paper: The Life and Death of The New York Herald Tribune” (Alfred A. Knopf, 1986).
Probably no article better captured this strain of social-history journalism than one whose title created an American idiom: “Radical Chic.” With unsparing detail and barely concealed mockery, Mr. Wolfe, exhausting 20,000 words, described a fund-raising party given by Leonard Bernstein in his glamorous Manhattan apartment, attended by rich liberals and Black Panthers, the recipients of the evening’s charitable proceeds. The article, appearing in June 1970, outraged both the liberals and the Panthers, but the issue sold out.
Mr. Felker’s New York magazine became a prime practitioner of the New Journalism, again to mixed reactions. The form’s admirers believed it represented events more truthfully than traditional objective reporting could. Conventional journalism, they said, reported what people said; the New Journalists tried to present what people really felt and thought.
“Nonsense,” its critics countered. They considered New Journalism fiction masquerading as reportage, and its practitioners as manipulators of reader responses.
One article, about a prostitute and her pimp, titled “Redpants and Sugarman,” drew heavy criticism when it was later revealed that Redpants was a composite figure created from all the prostitutes that the writer, Ms. Sheehy, had interviewed.
Mr. Felker later said he had erred in not letting readers know the truth about Redpants. He said that Ms. Sheehy had originally explained her method in the second paragraph but that he had removed it. “I felt it slowed the story down,” he said in an interview with The New York Times in 1995.
“But we learned a lesson,” he said. “Composite is never used any more. "
One-Borough Town
Few readers flipping through its pages would have mistaken New York as a magazine for the five boroughs. That was never the idea.
“Everybody who worked on New York lived in Manhattan,” Mr. Felker told The Times. “So it was essentially a Manhattan magazine. And I believe that print — now that broadcast has become the dominant mass media — has to be aimed at educated, affluent people.”
He added: “I’ve been criticized for being elitist, but that’s who, broadly speaking, consumes print. That was our set of values — our attitude — to understand how to make life more interesting, to explain New York life.”
In its first year as an independent publication, with an initial circulation of 50,000, New York lost $1.7 million. In the fall of 1969, still in the red, New York went public, offering 20 percent of its stock at $10 a share. The next year, with circulation at 240,000, the magazine finally broke even, and Mr. Felker became publisher as well as editor.
Demanding as his job at New York was, he was hungry for more. In 1974 New York acquired The Village Voice, the liberal New York weekly. (That same year he moved New York into new quarters on Second Avenue, complete with gym, staff dining room and full-time chef; today, the magazine, published by New York Media Holdings LLC, has headquarters on Varick Street in SoHo.) In 1976 Mr. Felker started a clone of New York for the California market, calling the magazine New West.
A Takeover Drama
By the end of that year, Mr. Murdoch, the Australian press baron who had just paid $30 million to add The New York Post to his chain of newspapers in Australia, Britain and the United States, made an offer to buy New York magazine. It set off several weeks of high drama, complete with front-page coverage in the New York press.
Mr. Felker refused the Murdoch offer. Then, worried he might lose his magazine, he asked his old friend Katharine Graham, the publisher of The Washington Post, to back him in a bid to keep the company. Mrs. Graham offered to buy out Carter Burden, the principal stockholder, who held 24 percent of the stock. Mr. Burden, who had once been the subject of an unflattering profile in Mr. Felker’s magazine, turned her down.
The next day Mr. Murdoch flew to Sun Valley, Idaho, where Mr. Burden was skiing, and made a deal. Mr. Felker immediately obtained a temporary restraining order to block the sale. Meanwhile, tales of Mr. Murdoch’s lurid tabloid journalism were causing such agitation among New York staff members that they walked off the job an hour before the magazine’s closing deadline, saying they would never work for Mr. Murdoch.
Concerned that the walkout would hurt his efforts to block the sale, Mr. Felker frantically tried to find his writers and get them back to work. After looking through bars on the East Side, he finally found them at a restaurant. But by then it was too late to meet the deadline.
And suddenly it was over: Mr. Felker was out. An agreement was signed before dawn on Jan. 7, 1977. Mr. Murdoch gained control of the company and agreed to buy Mr. Felker’s shares for $1.4 million.
Mr. Felker was never able to recreate the brio of New York. In 1978 he joined with Associated Newspapers to buy Esquire and was its editor and publisher until 1981. He became a producer at 20th Century Fox; the editor of Daily News Tonight, an afternoon edition of The Daily News in New York; the editor of Manhattan, inc., a magazine for Wall Streeters; and editor of various smaller publications.
In addition to Ms. Sheehy, Mr. Felker is survived by a sister, Charlotte Gallagher; a daughter, Mohm Sheehy of Cambridge, Mass.; a stepdaughter, Maura Sheehy of Brooklyn; and three stepgrandchildren.
Although repeated surgery to address his throat cancer impinged on his ability to speak in his later years, Mr. Felker continued as a consultant to magazines. In 1994 he became a lecturer at the Graduate School of Journalism at the University of California, Berkeley. The next year the school established the Clay Felker Magazine Center.
The West Coast became his second home. And while he loved teaching, nothing ever quite equaled those high-living and hard-working days when New York City was his muse and New York magazine his darling.
“I know why Clay is such a good editor,” said his friend the novelist and playwright Muriel Resnick. “He works until 8 o’clock. He goes somewhere every night. He’s out with people, he talks to people, he listens to people, and he doesn’t drink.”
*On a sidenote, how do you tFS'ers like New York Magazine? I haven't been able to find a copy down here in Texas, but thought about getting a subscription for it. Is it worth the money, even if you don't live in NY?
GETTING BACK IN STYLE: High-rise condominiums in Manhattan have been erected in less time than it took In Style magazine to formulate a redesign. For the last year, the top brass at Time Inc. sought to reinvigorate its fashion and celebrity magazine with additions to the top of the masthead — editor at large Ariel Foxman, deputy managing editor Eilidh MacAskill, recruited from the U.K.'s Happy, and creative director Rina Stone, who joined from People — and changes to its covers and editorial sections along the way. But the August issue will bring about a noticeable new look for the 14-year-old title, which has faced intense pressure from both fashion and celebrity competitors.
The new look is more modern with a bigger focus on fashion and beauty, demonstrated through bigger pictures, bolder headlines, and new sections including "What's Hot Now" and "Shop It." And there's a go-girl editorial tone with plenty of exclamation points, ellipses and liberal use of the word "love."
"Our marketplace has become very crowded both on the fashion front, with everyone using celebrity and treating service in the way that had become very familiar for In Style, and on the weekly front, where the celebrity magazines had encroached," said In Style managing editor Charla Lawhon.
"When In Style launched, what people knew about celebrity was more limited," added Lynette Harrison Brubaker, group publisher. "Now everyone knows everything about celebrity, so we have to keep more relevant. And it's not enough to say celebrities are the only stylemakers because there's 20 people around them in an entourage helping them make choices." Thus, the redesign plays up fashion and includes more insights from the entourage in the know.
To accompany staffers like fashion directors Hal Rubenstein and Cynthia Weber-Cleary, In Style poached editors from the competition, including news editor Natasha Wolff and senior design editor Suzanne Karotkin (formerly of Harper's Bazaar), and senior beauty editor Patricia Alfonso Tortolani (from Allure). The magazine also recruited Barneys New York creative director Simon Doonan and stylist Isabel Dupré to become contributors. Doonan pens a monthly column, "Where Style Starts"; Dupré styled the redesigned cover shoot with Rihanna. Lawhon hopes Dupré will be a "frequent contributor" to the magazine. Profiles of Rachel Zoe, Isaac Mizrahi, and Rachel Bilson's new clothing line for DKNY Jeans also appear in the issue.
The tone of the copy (stories and cover lines include "What Price Beauty?" and "Style Rules We Love to Break") signal an updated, if somewhat cheekier In Style. "The redesign has been successful in reinforcing the luxury aspect of In Style, at the same time bringing practical service to the reader," said Martha Nelson, who oversees In Style as editor of The People Group. Spreads include enlarged pictures of clothes, products and celebrities big enough for any farsighted reader to see the details. And those fashion credits should be rolling right along: New front of book and shopping sections dedicate more pages to products, and its beauty pages have been expanded to include more goods.
Another sign that In Style wants to position itself among fashion's biggest trendsetters — the magazine and two of its editors will be featured this fall in WB's "Gossip Girl," the show that's touted as the next "Sex and the City" in terms of its impact on fashion and trends. The script hasn't been written yet, so there's no word on whether it'll be Hal or Cynthia or whomever dishing with Serena, Blair and the "Girls" about the mercurial world of fashion.
Ingredients integral to the DNA of the magazine — red-carpet photographs, party pages and celebrities at home — have not been discarded, but repackaged. Photos and red-carpet candids include more editor and celebrity commentary.
The changes come at a point of momentum for the magazine, which will report to the Audit Bureau of Circulations an increase in circulation for the first half of 2008, a feat few magazines can claim as of late. Single copy sales increased 4 percent, to 752,000 per month while total paid circulation increased 2 percent to 1.82 million. Comparatively, In Style moved 865,000 copies a month on newsstands in 2005 and had a paid circulation of 1.79 million.
In Style is also launching an edition in China, with Ziyi Zhang on the cover.
Advertising, however, is on the decline, as is business within most of the magazine industry. Through August In Style has lost 202 pages, or 11 percent, of advertising. Its European fashion and accessories advertising is still strong, but financial services, pharmaceutical and fragrance have scaled back. September also will finish smaller than last year, according to estimates. But at least one advertiser believed In Style's new look, especially the approach towards showcasing product, might be more appealing to advertisers. "It's very modern, which I think In Style needed," said Mimma Viglezio, Gucci executive vice president, global communications. "The whole thing looked more appealing."