The Business of Magazines

The Wall Street Journal reports on the changes afoot at Conde Nast:

Condé Nast Names New President

Magazine publisher Condé Nast on Friday promoted three senior executives to new roles, cementing the management bench under Chief Executive Chuck Townsend.

The move comes after several in-house candidates to succeed Mr. Townsend left the company this year, and people familiar with the company said it sets up an eventual CEO successor: Robert Sauerberg, who was named as president. Mr. Sauerberg, who was previously group preident for consumer marketing, is a well-regarded executive who is seen by industry veterans as ripe for a top job at a magazine company.

Mr. Townsend has been both CEO and president. Condé Nast, which publishes Vogue, Glamour and Vanity Fair magazines, said Mr. Sauerberg's main duty will be to help Condé Nast diversify its revenue away from advertising and into new ways of making money from digital and other products.

According to people familiar with the matter, Mr. Sauerberg has been a point man for Condé Nast's strategy for new technologies such as Apple Inc.'s iPad. Mr. Sauerberg also has been instrumental in making Conde Nast more sophisticated about pricing and consumer data for magazine subscriptions, these people said.

Condé Nast, which publishes Vogue, Glamour and Vanity Fair magazines, named Robert Sauerberg as company president. His current post is group president for consumer marketing.

In other changes, Louis Cona, executive vice president for Condé Nast's corporate advertising sales, will become the company's chief marketing officer. Condé Nast Chief Operating Officer John Bellando will add the role of chief financial officer, the New York company said in a statement.

The moves were announced as magazine advertising is rebounding this year after a two-year downturn, easing pressure on publishers that had been forced to cut payrolls and perks and close magazines. Condé Nast last year stopped publishing several magazines including food publication Gourmet and business magazine Portfolio.

In June, David Carey, who oversaw a group of magazines including Wired and Golf Digest, left for rival magazine publisher Hearst Corp., and longtime Vogue publisher Tom Florio resigned to explore opportunities to head his own company. In January, Richard Beckman, who for years led advertising sales across Condé Nast's magazines, took a post running the company that owns the Hollywood Reporter, Billboard and other trade publications.
 
(NEW YORK)
Kristin Perrotta
, formerly editorial projects director at Allure, has been promoted to executive editor.

Jillian Mackenzie, formerly deputy editor at Allure, has been promoted to deputy editor/features director.

Amy Keller Laird, formerly beauty director at Allure, has been promoted to deputy editor/beauty director.

Ali Tyrangel, formerly account director at HL Group, has been named public relations director at Iconix Brand Group.

Catherine Pope, formerly of AAM, has been named senior account managerat Linda Gaunt Communications.

Joel Tirinanzi has been named vice president of merchandising and production at Victorinox Swiss Army USA.

Kristin DiCunzolo has been named vice president of marketing and communications for apparel and retail at Victorinox Swiss Army USA.

Jenna Ebbink has been named senior account executive, fashion & beauty at The Patton Group.

Leigh Aidner, formerly account executive at Siren PR, has been named account manager at Exposure USA.

Juliette Schwab, formerly account coordinator at HL Group, has been named junior account executive in the accessories division at Wetherly Fashion Group.

Bryan Morello, formerly of HL Group, has been named account coordinator in the accessories division at Wetherly Fashion Group.

Emily Andrews, formerly account executive at C&M Media, has left the company.

Emily Oliff, formerly of Dark PR, has left the company.

Katie Garrabrant, formerly manager, public relations and special events for Women's RTW at Saks Fifth Avenue, has left the company.

Kelly Vitko, formerly public relations manager at VBH Luxury, has left the company.

Stephanie Gerard, formerly of Bliss Spa, has left the company.

Fournier Communications announces its representation of Immunocologie.

Haute House PR announces its representation of Tryst Jewelry.

J Public Relations announces its representation of Rancho Bernardo Inn, Surf & Sand Resort, Fairmont Hotels and Resorts, Brooklyn Winery, Brockton Villa and Beaumont’s.

Mariposa Communications announces its representation of Nicola Yoon Design.

ODA PR announces its representation of Isabella Fiore.

Shout Social announces its representation of DLC Brooklyn.

Siren PR announces its representation of Modern Vintage shoes.

Succarra announces its representation of Jasmine Pennamma.
dailyfrontrow.com
 
Magazine Ad Outlook Cloudy for ’10


Ask fashion magazine publishers about the outlook for the rest of the year and they all use exactly the same two anodyne words to disguise their fear: “cautiously optimistic.”

With the stock market all over the place and even the chairman of the Federal Reserve Board, Ben Bernanke, warning the economic recovery isn’t all that great, their concern is understandable — especially after a 2009 that saw magazines hemorrhaging ad pages faster than BP’s gusher in the Gulf. And even though year-to-date and September ad-page numbers generally show healthy increases, the figures remain well below 2008 levels (let’s not even talk about those halcyon days of 2007; it’s like discussing the California Gold Rush).

“People are feeling better, some more than others,” said Vogue’s vice president and publisher Susan Plagemann, who was one of those using the “cautiously optimistic” cliché. For the September issue, she’s not in the ballpark of the biggest one ever (727 pages, in 2007) but the title easily posted the most total ad pages in the category for the month, with 532 (it continues to trail InStyle in total pages so far this year). Plagemann said American fashion brands came back strong, and noted increases from European fashion firms, as well.

At Time Inc. rival InStyle, publisher Connie Anne Phillips said the luxury category is back in a big way. “We have a momentum here that is carrying into the [September] issue,” she said, noting that Saks Fifth Avenue, Bulgari, Ferragamo and Marc Jacobs are new for the month. They helped propel the title to more than 400 ad pages for the issue for the first time in a decade. Meanwhile, even as there continues to be speculation that Lagardère might unload Hachette Filipacchi Media U.S. (publisher of Elle) in some form of joint venture with Hearst Magazines, new chief brand officer Robin Domeniconi is busy bringing in ad pages at Elle, and she said the October issue will be up around 30 percent.

Publishers, being perennial salesman, are paid to be optimistic. They aren’t the only ones, though. ZenithOptimedia this week upgraded its forecast for global ad expenditures this year, to growth of 3.5 percent from a previous forecast of 2.2 percent. This is the third upgrade in a row, following six consecutive downgrades. Zenith reports that magazines will account for 9.8 percent of the total ad spend this year and decrease to 8.8 percent by 2012, while online advertising continues its strong upward spiral, from 13.9 percent of total spending this year to 17.1 percent in two years. Given that’s the new mother lode, publishers are rushing to tap into it.

Condé Nast senior vice president and publishing director Bill Wackermann said Glamour’s significant uptick in advertising in September (up 88 pages) was aided by the launch of its iPad digital strategy. “We sold nine spots and we were only supposed to sell eight,” he said of the iPad, adding that advertising from nonendemic categories, such as financial and technology, also helped the overall cause. Wackermann also noted that incremental growth in the magazine’s bread-and-butter categories was crucial and, looking ahead, he said October looks “solid,” and early indicators are good for November and December.

Lou Cona, executive vice president of the Condé Nast Media Group, said the company is up 30 percent in digital for the first half and up 7.2 percent in print, excluding The New Yorker and Golf World. “We are breaking six campaigns in September issues that we did ourselves [in-house],” said Cona, declining to name the brands.

Just like at retail, though, it’s hard to wean consumers (here, advertisers) off the discount mania seen in late 2008 and last year. While titles like Elle and Harper’s Bazaar have long been rumored to offer significant rate-card cuts to drive ad pages, there are rumblings this time around among competitors and advertisers that Vogue and Glamour offered sizeable discounts this season as well, upward of 30 percent in some cases, and cut deals when it came to the digital side of the business. But Wackermann — who now oversees Glamour, W, Details and Brides — denied these claims, noting it’s not the case and has never been the case at parent Condé Nast.

While most titles reported ad gains for the month, a few — Lucky, Shape and Details — weren’t so fortunate, making the last quarter all that more important. Lucky’s vice president and publisher, Michelle Myers, told WWD that some advertisers moved their business to August and October, which accounted for the 11 percent decline in paging. “We have 13 new advertisers for September,” she said, adding August was up 8 percent, October is looking strong and the December issue will mark the magazine’s 10th anniversary (a sign that advertising for that month will probably be stronger than usual). Details is down 23 percent, and Wackermann acknowledged that while the title didn’t “rock” the month, October is up 20 pages and the magazine is positioned to have a strong finish for the year.

Then there are W and Town & Country, which have new editors in Stefano Tonchi and Stephen Drucker, respectively. The hires have aroused curiosity and driven positive ad gains. W, perhaps hit the hardest by the downturn in luxury, is up 31 percent for the month, and Hearst’s T&C is reporting an increase of almost 28 percent. Jim Taylor, vice president and publisher at Town & Country, said the September issue has more returning advertisers than new ones. He didn’t provide any names but, like virtually every other title, said fashion paging is up.

“The first advertisers to increase their ad budgets and return to their regular list of magazines were the bigger brands,” said Taylor, noting that September is the first month that fashion, accessories, jewelry and watches introduce their fall collections. He said the luxury business has improved and conspicuous luxury spending is no longer seen as somewhat insensitive. “The wealthy gained a lot of wealth back from when the Dow shrank to 6,500,” Taylor noted. “It is now regularly above 10,000, which really helps luxury sales, because the top 10 percent of the wealthiest Americans own 85 percent of all stock-market wealth.”
072310mediachart.jpg


wwd.com
 
That's good for W, although no surprise. Tonchi is known as an ad machine. The September issue should be well over 400 pages. I'm really looking forward to it.
 
Bonnier Sweden does not extend the contract for Glamour magazine

After five years as a licence publisher of Swedish GLAMOUR, Bonnier Tidskrifter and Condé Nast have mutually agreed to not prolong the publication of GLAMOUR in its license partnership.

The October issue of Swedish Glamour will be the last under Bonnier Tidskrifter as publisher.

– We have had the pleasure of working for five intense and glamorous years with Condé Nast, says Ulrika Saxon, CEO of Bonnier Tidskrifter. The launch and development of Glamour for the Swedish market has been successful in terms of circulation, despite the increasing competition in the fashion segment. However, strategic considerations have led our decision to not renew the license.

– I am proud of the editorial quality achieved by the very talented editorial staff of Glamour, which greatly contributed to the excellent reputation of the magazine says Linda Grahn, Publisher of Home & Fashion, Bonnier Tidskrifter.

– During the past five years Bonnier and Condé Nast have successfully worked on the introduction of one of the fastest growing international magazine brands – GLAMOUR.

Since its launch and in a short period of time GLAMOUR has successfully positioned itself in the Swedish magazine market as a source of reference for fashion, beauty and lifestyle. This Condé Nast hopes to further build-on and develop in the future for the Swedish market says Carol Cornuau, Vice President Condé Nast New Markets

source: bonniermagazines.se
 
CHANGING PARTNERS: Condé Nast International has formed a joint venture with Globo Media Group, a Brazilian publisher and broadcaster, to publish Vogue and other Condé Nast titles in the South American country, one of the world’s fastest growing markets for luxury goods. Vogue has been published in Brazil in Portuguese for the past 35 years under a license agreement with Carta Editorial, which also published titles including Casa Vogue and Homme Vogue, most of which will now be published by the new joint venture, Edições Globo-Condé Nast. In addition, all the titles will have an online version. Under the joint venture the companies also plan eventually to launch Brazilian editions of other Condé Nast titles, along with branded digital and digital TV platforms. The last issue to be run by Carta Editorial will be October.

Jonathan Newhouse, chairman of Condé Nast International, said, “Globo is the leading media company in South America and has a reputation for excellence. It is the ideal partner for Condé Nast as we expand our business activities in this key, growing market.”

wwd.com
 
Aliona Doletskaya lieaving Russian Vogue :shock: :(

Russian Vogue editor Aliona Doletskaya decided to leave publishing house Condé Nast Russia.

President of Condé Nast International Jonathan Newhouse (Jonathan Newhouse) appealed to the company with the following letter:

"Some time ago, Alain Doletskaya told me that she would resign as chief editor of Russian Vogue, a position she held for almost 13 years, and start a new life - perhaps write a book or try a new career. Since Russia - as well as the whole world - was still in a difficult economic situation, I asked Alain to wait until it is more opportune moment.

Today it is obvious that we come out of the crisis, so I do not want to interfere Alenina plans. With great sadness, I accept her decision to leave the magazine.

It is impossible to overestimate the contribution of Alena Doletskaya in the development of Russian Vogue. In the late 1990's culture of glossy magazines in Russia was still low. None of the existing market magazines do not have the necessary understanding of the Vogue fashion, beauty, photography and had expressed a visual language. There was little the journalists who were experts in those fields. Everything had to be created from scratch. Alain managed to do it. She has assembled a team has found and nurtured young journalists to set the highest standards of quality and fanatically worked to make Vogue the most beautiful and influential fashion magazine, not only in Russia but also in the world.

Moreover, Alain Doletskaya itself is the embodiment of Vogue: she is just as charismatic and elegant-on, as published her journal. Alain is a true style icon, the embodiment of glamor - and in their own country and in international fashion circles.

Image Alena is great, but not less brilliant magazine created by it. It appeared in the magazine her talent and dedication. In brief, the Vogue - just a better gloss-st journal in Russia. Twelve years ago, the first cover of September Vogue rooms decorated photographer Mario Testino (Mario Testino). At present the September cover - photo Murtha Alas (Mert Alas) and Marcus Piggot (Marcus Piggott). This is a picture that embody the best there is today in fashion and in a magazine photo. And this is an excellent example of what the high standards established in the Russian Vogue Alena.

In the very near future we will announce the name of the new editor of Russian Vogue. The role of Alena in the for-ming of the journal is so unique that in a sense it is impossible to replace. I thank Alain for all that she did for the magazine and wish her success of her future plans. "

vogue.ru
 
This is surprising, and a bad news, i think she was a great eic! Wonder who will replace her.
 
That is interesting. I wonder what's in store for Vogue Russia.
 
Bonnier Sweden does not extend the contract for Glamour magazine

After five years as a licence publisher of Swedish GLAMOUR, Bonnier Tidskrifter and Condé Nast have mutually agreed to not prolong the publication of GLAMOUR in its license partnership.

The October issue of Swedish Glamour will be the last under Bonnier Tidskrifter as publisher.

– We have had the pleasure of working for five intense and glamorous years with Condé Nast, says Ulrika Saxon, CEO of Bonnier Tidskrifter. The launch and development of Glamour for the Swedish market has been successful in terms of circulation, despite the increasing competition in the fashion segment. However, strategic considerations have led our decision to not renew the license.

– I am proud of the editorial quality achieved by the very talented editorial staff of Glamour, which greatly contributed to the excellent reputation of the magazine says Linda Grahn, Publisher of Home & Fashion, Bonnier Tidskrifter.

– During the past five years Bonnier and Condé Nast have successfully worked on the introduction of one of the fastest growing international magazine brands – GLAMOUR.

Since its launch and in a short period of time GLAMOUR has successfully positioned itself in the Swedish magazine market as a source of reference for fashion, beauty and lifestyle. This Condé Nast hopes to further build-on and develop in the future for the Swedish market says Carol Cornuau, Vice President Condé Nast New Markets

source: bonniermagazines.se

It would be fantastic if CN could harvest some of that great Swedish/Finnish style somehow.
 
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Seems like, there're many people who is surprised about Aliona's decision, she has received many letters in her office. See here.
 
(NEW YORK) As first reported by The Daily, Tatler Russia EIC Victoria Davydova will be assuming top duties at Vogue Russia, replacing outgoing editor Aliona Doletskaya. The move is effective immediately. “Victoria Davydova is one of the most professional, experienced, and talented editors in the Russian market,” said Jonathan Newhouse in a memo to Moscow-based staffers, translated by The Daily. “Behind her is the experience of launching two completely different magazines within Condé Nast. All of this makes Vika a perfect choice for the role of chief editor of Vogue Russia.” The new EIC of Tatler will be Ksenia Solovieva, a former deputy editor under Davydova.
VALENTINE UHOVSKI
dailyfrontrow.com
 
From fashionista.com
Editorial Musical Chairs: Glossies Keep it Internal
By Dhani Mau


EMC3.jpg

This week, there was not a lot of movement between different publications, but some major internal changes to report on. There must be some happy editors out there because everyone got promoted!

Allure announced three major promotions this week: Kristen Perotta, formerly editorial projects director and beauty director, has been named executive editor. Jillian Mackenzie, formerly deputy editor is now features director/deputy editor. Amy Keller Laird, formerly beauty director, is now deputy editor/beauty director.

At the New York Times, contributing writer Jeremy Peters was promoted to magazine reporter and Stephanie Clifford went from advertising and marketing reporter to reporter, retail coverage.

At Essence, Elliana Placas was promoted from contributing fashion director to fashion director. Essence found a new senior beauty editor in Tasha Turner, formerly the senior beauty director, special issues, at InStyle.

At People Style Watch, Cassady Nordeen was promoted from fashion assistant to associate fashion editor and Regina Gardiner from accessories editor to senior accessories editor.

At Women’s Health, Liza Collis moved from associate fashion market editor to fashion market editor, replacing Thea Palad who is now senior fashion editor.

At Glamour, Marina Khidekel, who used to freelance, was named articles editor, health.

Of course, there has been some movement. Gay Morris Empson, one of the founding members of Child magazine, was named fashion director at Parenting. She will also stay on as fashion director at Working Mother.

Alyse Wax, formerly a freelancer at Hollywood.com, is now fashion writer at USA Network’s new Character Blog.

Hachette Filipacchi Media U.S., publishers of the Elle franchise, named Lisa Hagendorf as director of corporate communications. Previously, she was vice president of public relations at Zinio.

Finally, Sonia Lowe, formerly managing editor at Fit Parent, has been named fashion editor at Anokhi.
 
From the New York Post (nypost.com)
Some see red as Essence hires a white editor
By KEITH J. KELLY
Updated: Wed., Jul. 28, 2010, 2:36 AM

Essence, a Time Inc.-owned monthly that is seen as the ultimate fashion and lifestyle title for black women, is wrestling with a controversy sparked by a former fashion editor who criticized the magazine's decision to hire a white woman as its new fashion director.

Editor-in-Chief Angela Burt-Murray told Media Ink she's aware of the controversy now playing out on Facebook after the magazine named Ellianna Placas, who has worked at O: The Oprah Magazine and US Weekly, as its fashion director but said she's not changing course.

Michaela Angela Davis, who was also founding fashion director for Vibe magazine and a onetime editor-in-chief of the printversion of black fashion magazine Honey, started the cyber controversy yesterday with a Facebook posting that has attracted dozens of comments.

"It's with a heavy heart I've learned that Essence magazine has engaged a white fashion director," she wrote. "The fashion industry has historically been so hostile to black people -- especially women. The seat reserved for black women once held by Susan Taylor, Ionia Dunn-Lee, Harriette Cole (+ me) is now -- I can't. It's a dark day for me."

The controversy has drawn over 90 comments on Facebook. Some, such as Elicia Johnson, wrote, "Wow. What a disappointment."

But many of the comments seemed to be in the vein of "Let's cut a little slack here and see what happens and maybe it will all turn out fine."

"This is not inherently hurtful in my view at all," wrote Danya R. Steele. "Who's to say she won't do a phenomenal job at paying incredible homage to Black female beauty? I wouldn't write this person off based on race alone. I would be curious to hear more about context -- background, past work and upbringing even.

Another commentator, Sarah Gentillon, countered: "If a publication such as Elle, or Cosmopolitan only hired white people in their company, we would quickly jump on that and start calling people racism [sic] etc. Times are changing people and we need to change with it."

Burt-Murray told Media Ink: "I understand that this issue has struck an emotional chord with our audience. However, I selected [Placas], who has been contributing to the magazine on a freelance basis for the last six months, because of her creativity, vision, the positive reader response to her work and her enthusiasm and respect for the audience and our brand. We remain committed to celebrating the unique beauty and style of African-American women in Essence magazine and online at Essence.com."
 
Things have been pretty quiet on the T front since Anne Christensen left the title, but now it looks like EIC Sally Singer is finally starting to mastermind her masthead. We’re hearing that Singer has tapped good friend Michelle Sanders as her new fashion director, who’ll most likely assume her duties right after Labor Day when Singer starts punching in full-time at the Times.

Until earlier this year, Sanders was senior vice president of Donna Karan Collection accessories, a position she assumed in May of 2007 after serving as president of Miu Miu’s American operations and VP and fashion director at Juicy Couture. Prior to that, she was Vogue’s accessories director for six years, where she developed a close relationship with Singer.

Sally Singer makes first hires...Michelle Kessler-Sanders from Donna Karan as fashion director and Jacob Brown as features director.

dailyfrontrow, wwd twitter
 
Simon Robins left Vogue Russia after Aliona Doletskaya.

Ekaterina Mukhina - the first Russian Fashion Director at Vogue Russia. Publishing house "Condé Nast" announced the appointment of Ekaterina Mukhina as fashion director of Vogue Russia. In this position, Ekaterina replaced Simon Robins who decided to leave the magazine.

Ekaterina Mukhina education reporter, in 2002, she graduated from the Faculty of Journalism of Moscow State University. Lomonosova. Her journalistic career began in Vogue Russia: from 2003 to 2004. She worked as a junior fashion editor.

In 2004, Ekaterina Mukhina moved to the publishing house "Hachette Filipacshi Shkulev" to the journal Elle, where she was the first stylist of the magazine, then a junior editor and editor of fashion. In December 2006, was appointed director of fashion magazine Marie Claire.
After June 1, 2009 - director of fashion magazine Elle.

glossy.ru
 
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source | wwd.com

HER OWN TEAM: It’s taken a while, but Sally Singer has at last made her first two big hires at T: The New York Times Style Magazine — and they aren’t from the usual megamagazine ranks. Michelle Kessler-Sanders, most recently senior vice president at Donna Karan, will succeed Anne Christensen as fashion director. Christensen, for those who forgot, thought she had the T editor’s job and rather than wait around to be pushed aside by Singer, decamped to become executive fashion director at Glamour.

Prior to Donna Karan, Kessler-Sanders served as president of Miu Miu USA, vice president and fashion director at Juicy Couture and accessories director at Vogue, where she worked with Singer. And in the normally gushy tones new hires reserve for their bosses, Kessler-Sanders told WWD, “Sally is one of the most talented editors and brilliant minds within our fashion universe, and beyond.”

Singer also tapped Jacob Brown as features director. Brown has been editor at V and VMAN for three-and-a-half years. He succeeds Armand Limnander, who followed former T editor Stefano Tonchi to W, where he is fashion news-features director.
 
(NEW YORK) As if the excessive Clinton wedding coverage didn't tip you off, the lethargic summer news cycle has officially arrived. Perhaps it's time you got around to actually reading the copy of August W that's been sitting on your desk for weeks? Come on---it's the first one masterminded by the excessively buzzed-about Stefano Tonchi! Surely you need all the dish on the Hyatt Hotels' first resort venture, the trendy new dermatologist facial, and Fabrizio Ferri's home on Pantelleria...OK, so change doesn't happen overnight. All the more reason to count the minutes 'til September!

And it looks like Tonchi has a few tricks up his Brunello Cucinelli sleeve. On August 10, he will welcome the press to lunch at 4 Times Square to host a "preview" of the September issue---and charm the would-be reviewers well in advance of their deadlines. (Keith Kelly, have you RSVPed?) An "intimate Q&A" with Tonchi, editor at large Lynn Hirschberg, and of course, vice president and publisher Nina Lawrence, will follow. But aside from all the new photographers, features, layouts, and the like, there's only one question plaguing The Daily': Can Tonchi sell newsstand? Eight more days...
dailyfrontrow.com
 

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