The Business of Magazines

The new editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris is...Emmanuelle Alt!

Source: VogueParisLive Twitter

YEP :wink: I'm sure nobody is shocked to learn that news since she was Carine's second in command and has worked with the magazine for a decade but people were hopping to have someone else for a breeze of a fresh air. I'm not a fan of Vogue Paris so I don't really care.
 
Hopefully she has better taste in stylists, models, celebrities and writers than she does in clothes...:innocent:.
 
PARIS — Emmanuelle Alt, who worked beside Carine Roitfeld for a decade at Vogue Paris, will succeed her at the helm of the French title effective Feb. 1.

This confirms a report in WWD on Jan. 5 that Alt was in pole position to assume one of the most coveted and high-profile jobs in fashion publishing.

Known for rock ’n’ roll style — pinned on big-shouldered jackets, skinny jeans and vertiginous heels — Alt, 45, is a low-key yet influential fixture on the Paris fashion scene. Her name should appear on the top of the masthead of the April issue as Roitfeld winds up her tenure.

Condé Nast France president Xavier Romatet told WWD that Alt takes over the flagship title at a time of strong momentum for the company, with 2010 revenues up 12 percent. Consequently, he said not to expect any radical changes, but rather a “progression” of Vogue’s audacious point of view on fashion.

He characterized Alt, alongside Roitfeld, as one of the industry’s most gifted stylists, lending continuity to the glossy, which feted its 90th anniversary last year with a 626-page issue and a glittering masked ball during Paris Fashion Week.

Roitfeld surprised fashion observers by announcing last month that she was leaving French Vogue after a decade in the editor’s seat, sparking speculation she had been pushed out. Roitfeld explained the decision by telling WWD: “It’s been an incredible adventure, but maybe in my heart and soul I am more of a freelancer.”

Alt shoots regularly with photographers such as Mario Sorrenti and the Dutch duo Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, producing images that are sexy, glitzy and fierce. She is closely linked to David Sims, as well as to designer-turned-photographer Hedi Slimane.

Fashion folk credit Alt with putting tough glamour back on the fashion agenda, and it’s an open secret here that she has given vital input to designer Christophe Decarnin at Balmain, which has catapulted to become a hot ticket in Paris and a label known for sexy jeans, demonstrative jackets and destroyed T-shirts — all worn with offhand ease by asparagus-thin Alt.

The stylist is also often seen in the company of designer Isabel Marant, another label with that rocker-influenced je ne sais quoi Alt possesses.

In a statement, Condé Nast France said Alt would devote herself exclusively to her new responsibilities.

Alt could not immediately be reached for comment, but stated that it was a “great honor” to head a magazine she knows well. “Working with a very talented team, I will devote myself to developing the incredible potential of Vogue Paris,” she said.

She joined the magazine as its fashion director in 2000, the same year as Roitfeld, a stylist closely associated with Tom Ford and his golden years at Gucci.

Alt has spent her entire career at French magazines, starting as head of fashion at teen title 20 Ans, or 20 Years in English, in 1993, and moving over to Mixte in 1998 just before Vogue Paris.

Condé Nast said Olivier Lalanne, another one of Roitfeld’s key deputies, would work closely with Alt and have enlarged responsibilities, also assuming sole editorial direction of the biannual men’s title Vogue Hommes International.

Designers and photographers largely praised the appointment.

Karl Lagerfeld, who enlisted Alt to style Chanel advertising campaigns years ago, said Alt has a strong fingerprint, which could be a double-edged sword.

“Her style is her big shoulders, long legs, tight jeans, sleeves up to the elbow, one hip out,” the designer said. “I personally like her. She’s a handsome French woman. She has a style, but is it enough to make a whole magazine?”

Lagerfeld said he would reserve judgment until Alt has produced a few issues, and he held out hope she would bring change, the engine of fashion. “As editor in chief, she may blossom,” he said.

“She has an innate sense of chic and has a very clear vision of who the Paris Vogue woman is. The shoots we have done with Emmanuelle are always just like her: superfun, supercool and superfashion,” van Lamsweerde and Matadin said in an e-mail.

“Emmanuelle is one of the most talented editors. I love working with her,” added Sorrenti. Others seemed ready for more of the same.

“It’s a very logical continuation for French Vogue. She’s really somebody who’s going to make it. She has a point of view, a lot of vision,” said Giambattista Valli. “I remember when she was editor in chief of Mixte she did some amazing stories. She worked a lot with Corinne Day at the time. She’s French, but she’s extremely international as well.

“Alt is a contemporary Parisian woman who is interested in design,” Valli continued. “She’s more about Parisian chic, perhaps less eclectic than [Roitfeld] and all this kind of sexiness.”

wwd.com
 
The King of Hearst

NEW YORK — It was a few minutes before 10 p.m. on Monday night and Hearst Magazines top executive David Carey had something to say about his company, a comment his rivals would try to deny but probably fear is true.

“The current environment favors the Hearst way of doing things,” he said.

While other magazine publishers in town are preaching to their colleagues the importance of practical management and sensible spending, Hearst wrote the book on such an approach years ago. By the time Hearst finishes acquiring Hachette from Lagardère, the company will have spent more than $1 billion in a little under a year while the rest of the magazine industry is still recovering from the Great Recession.

Hearst has long been derided as playing second fiddle to the Condé Nasts of the world for being the home of dull brands, slim staffs and a no-frills attitude — in other words, hardly the dream of any youngster aspiring to get into the glamorous, free-spending world of glossy magazines. Now its long-standing corporate ethos is looking more and more enviable in a topsy-turvy world.

The magazine division’s culture was set by Frank Bennack, the plump, mild-mannered Fezziwig-like ceo at parent Hearst Corp. who returned to that position in 2008 after ostensibly retiring from a 23-year run in the role. Bennack hired current New York City schools chief Cathie Black to run the magazine division in 1995, and in June, poached Carey from Condé Nast to replace Black as president of the magazine division.

It was the 77-year-old Bennack’s tight-fisted management style that allowed the company to withstand the brutality better than its rivals in the last two years (Condé Nast has shuttered six magazines; Hearst hasn’t closed any). And now that there appear to be some signs of life in the beleaguered publishing world, Bennack’s parsimony has positioned Hearst to make a blockbuster deal. The company is on the verge of spending $700 million to $800 million to pick up the Hachette International portfolio from Lagardère that includes Elle, Elle Decor, Woman’s Day and Car and Driver (Lagardère would keep the French titles). The deal will make Hearst the second-largest magazine company in the U.S. in terms of circulation, audience and advertising, surpassing Condé Nast. Adding those titles will boost the company’s market share among major publishers to 23 percent from 15 percent, which will be a smidgen behind Time Inc.’s 24 percent and well above Condé Nast’s 17 percent, according to data from the Publishers Information Bureau. They’ll get these titles after a year in which ad pages at Hearst’s monthlies grew by 9.5 percent, outpacing every other publisher in town (although it’s not clear how much Hearst titles discounted — and Hearst still trails total number of ad pages at Condé Nast and Time Inc.). And for a company that has bread-winning yet aggressively unsexy titles like Good Housekeeping, it will now gain a magazine — Elle — that can compete with other rivals’ marquee brand names (another caveat: One source said, however, that Hearst’s challenge with Elle will be to bring its average ad page rate up to that of Harper’s Bazaar, which itself charges less than Vogue).

Nor is this the only deal Hearst has been making lately. In its own quiet way, the publisher has been making small, Web-related acquisitions over the last few years. In June, Hearst bought iCrossing, a digital marketing service agency, for $325 million, and on Monday it revealed a $3 million investment into VillageVines.

Further proof that while other companies are contracting or changing their philosophies on the fly, Hearst is expanding.

“We had to course-correct far less than anyone else,” said Carey, describing his new home. “We’ve built our company in a very sensible way in both flush times and more challenged times. Take my experience with Smart Money way back when.” He was the founding publisher in 1992.

“This was a product that had eight employees at the very beginning and we shared one open bullpen with one open office. Whenever Norm Pearlstine, [who was at Dow Jones] when he was still involved, would come, [editor] Steve Swartz, who had the office, would have to leave so Norm could use it for a while. This is the mode the company has always operated in. It operated that way when I was at the company in ’95 and it operated like that, from what I understand, in 2006 and 2007.”

At that time, Carey was founding publisher of the high-gloss, high-spending Condé Nast Portfolio, which shuttered two years after launch.

In October 2008, Hearst set out its own project to create Food Network Magazine, one other publishing companies at the time held their nose to. But for Hearst, it was a coup, and only a couple of years after it launched, the title is the best-selling food magazine off the newsstand, the third best in selling ads, and its ad pages rose 78 percent in 2010. At a time when magazine executives are saying the words “revenue” and “bottom line” more often than talking about the magic of glossy magazines, Food Network Magazine is a property even its rivals would be proud to own.

It’s also a model that Hearst, having proven it successful, is ready to adopt again. WWD has learned the company will launch a magazine later this year in a joint venture with Scripps for an HGTV Magazine. It will be run the same way as Food Network: soft launch, lots of testing, cautious approach and, if it’s a hit, will be expanded.

The company has also embraced the world of reality TV in a way no other publisher has, with shows such as Marie Claire’s “Running in Heels” on the Style Network; “The Fashion Show,” which partners with Harper’s Bazaar on Bravo, and now it is close to snaring Elle, the magazine that essentially kicked off the genre with “Project Runway” (after a long legal battle, Hearst’s Marie Claire now works with the show).

Elle and creative director Joe Zee had a decent run more recently on MTV with “The City,” a spin-off of “The Hills.” And now Zee is getting a show of his own, “All on the Line,” on the Sundance Channel, which will make its debut in the spring. The show has been advertised as having Zee show a little tough love to struggling designers who need help salvaging their businesses.

“The world isn’t that siloed anymore,” a former executive at Condé Nast and Hearst said. “Will Oprah or Food Network ever be highbrow? No. But those are viable businesses.”

“A few years ago, when everyone made fun of us, and Condé was the big thing, there was a sense of why not me?” said a Hearst staffer. “Now there is a sense of optimism and that things will change.”

Hearst has had layoffs over the last few years, but they were not nearly as public or gut-wrenching as those at places like Time Inc., Condé Nast or elsewhere. In fact, the overwhelming sentiment at Hearst is how, despite some cuts, life feels relatively the same.

“I give Cathie credit for leading us through really tough times of recession,” said Ann Shoket, the editor in chief of Seventeen. “Those were crucial decisions that Cathie made to get us through tough times. Heads down. Tight budgets and staffs.…Was very well done there, well managed.”

Not that Condé Nast and Time Inc. are rolling over. Both have new senior management and both are stepping up their own investments in the Web world. While Time Inc. executives declined to comment, a Condé Nast spokeswoman said, “Condé Nast continues to be positioned for success, with the highest quality editorial products in print and digital — representing unique value to both our consumers and advertisers.”

Still, the long downtrodden feeling that used to permeate the hallways of Hearst as staffers would watch their competitors zoom around Manhattan in Town Cars and order takeaway from Balthazar appears to be diminishing. Hearst employees who spoke to WWD gushed about the recent citrus festival in the cafeteria at the Hearst Tower (“I bought two clementine oranges for 50 cents!” said one) and the recent video campaigns in the elevator that feature editors from Cosmopolitan and Redbook (“It’s so nice! It means the company likes us and is really nice!” said yet another).

“People are definitely looking differently at Hearst than they used to,” said one former Condé Nast and Hearst executive. “I don’t think Hearst has felt the sea change in corporate culture. It’s always run very efficiently and this is the Hearst that they’re used to. If anything, I think there’s a great sense of energy because there’s new management there.”

“After David got here I definitely received more résumés from people at Condé Nast and rival titles,” said Joanna Coles, the editor in chief of Marie Claire. “I do think the building helps. Such a steeple on the landscape of New York. And an expression of Hearst power.”

Hearst…Power? It is a topsy-turvy media world indeed.

Take the Elle deal: Observers might interpret it as a vanity play by Hearst — a move, in the Rodney Dangerfield method, “to get some respect.” Not so, Hearst executives insist. Sure, it will create better group-buy opportunities given the bundling of Elle, Marie Claire and Harper’s Bazaar. But Hearst wants Elle for a much more important reason: the rights to a portion of its 43 total international editions. That’s where the big revenues are. It’s a numbers game and, for Hearst — and, slowly, the rest of the industry — that’s all that matters these days.

Carey sums it up: “For us, prestige is a business with a healthy bottom line.”

wwd.com
 
^ WOW so unexpected! although her recent issues were getting really boring and repetitive, and this should not happen given the excellent group of contributors she had.
Waiting anxiously to know the successor...

Thefrenchy thanks for the news!
 
Well I have a feeling that now Ashley Heath will take care of both titles he launched (Arena Homme Plus and Pop), which belongs to Bauer Media.
 
I sure hope it is! Jo-Ann Furniss has always been doing an amazing job at AH+. It would devastate me if she left... :unsure:
 
I mean what's going on with fashion stylists becoming magazines EIC?
Besides that, Max Pearmain is almost an unknown (assistant) stylist!
Maybe he will "blossom", as Lagerfeld says, non?
Ridiculous!
 
I sure hope it is! Jo-Ann Furniss has always been doing an amazing job at AH+. It would devastate me if she left... :unsure:

That's true indeed.
Jo-ann Furniss has quit Arena Homme Plus. I wonder where she's going. She's a ****ing good editor. She will be greatly missed ! A.M
twitter.com/10and10Men
 
Here's the confirmation of what I was expecting...

Ashley Heath to Add Arena Homme Plus to His Responsibilities

I am pleased to announce that Ashley Heath has returned to Arena Homme+ as Editorial Director, in addition to his current responsibilities as editorial director of POP. In this newly created role, the editorial and creative direction for both titles will be consolidated under Ashley, a formidable talent who I am sure will bring immediate benefits to these highly respected titles.

Arena Homme+ is published twice a year to coincide with the Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter collections, and is the first word in fashion trends each season.

Ashley Heath, comments: "It's great to be returning to Arena Homme+. It's the original and most prestigious international men's fashion bi-annual and has always been close to my heart. Homme+ is a real icon in the market and has an enviable reputation for clear, cutting edge style and fashion editorial. I am looking forward to working with the creative and editorial teams to deepen the influence of the magazine for a new generation of stylish, modern men."

Geoff Campbell, MD Men's Lifestyle, Bauer Media, said: "I am confident that Ashley Heath's creativity and exceptional editorial skill will make an immediate, positive impact. Arena Homme+ is the only men's fashion book to cover not only the fashions and accessories of both the current and upcoming season but also the wider ideas which inspire them."

Ashley's appointment follows Jo-Ann Furniss' decision to step down as Editor in Chief of Arena Homme+ to pursue other opportunities.

Geoff Campbell, continued "Jo-Ann leaves Arena Homme+ in the best possible shape and we all wish her well in the future. She is a gifted Editor in Chief and Creative Director. Over the last six years, Jo-Ann has built a world class team of photographers, stylists and writers and has evolved Arena Homme+ into the 'must have' biannual for the readers and industry alike."

Ashley Heath will run both Pop and Arena Homme+ from his offices at 20 Hanover Square, Mayfair, London, W1. He reports into Geoff Campbell at Bauer Media, the Managing Director of Men's Lifestyle, who has added responsibility for publishing POP to his portfolio of leading lifestyle titles.

BACKGROUND

Launched in 1993, Arena Homme+ leads the bi-annual magazine sector with a clear editorial aesthetic that contextualises the new mood in fashion in a wider social context for taste makers and those on the true cutting edge world-wide. The magazine is broadly comprised of two sections each issue:
" The Front Section, covering the current season by way of trend stories, fashion shoots, features, still life and news.
" The Fashion Well, comprises the main issue features, essays and interviews alongside the extended fashion shoots from the most high profile photographers and stylists in fashion.

Jo-Ann Furniss has been Editor in Chief of Arena Homme+ since 2004.

POP launched in 2000 and is published bi-annually. POP's editorial teams are led by Vanessa Reid, Isabelle Kountoure and Tamara Rothstein. POP was previously published by David Davies.

bauermedia.co.uk, published 1/14/2011
 
Jo-Ann Furniss responds:

I just wanted to take this opportunity to thank all of the fantastic and talented people I have worked with over the past six years at Arena Homme+. It really has been a privilege to be involved in one of the great publications and many thanks to all of you for the help and support I have been given as Editor-In-Chief.

Above all I have an unrivalled team of contributors who really are the heart and soul of Homme+ and have made the publication what it is for the past six years. To them I give the biggest thanks of all for being so inspiring, generous and supportive. I really feel so incredibly proud of the work we have done together over these years as a kind of warped ‘think tank’. Your incredible loyalty and creativity has been the best thing about heading the publication.

Finally, none of this could have been done without the designers and houses who make magazines like Arena Homme+ possible. Many thanks to you for having the unfailing belief in what we were doing with the publication over the last six years and spurring us on to push men’s fashion even further forward. A particular thank you to the designers for all the kindness you have shown me personally as well as being a constant source of inspiration and interviews!

I am sure I will be in touch about the next project.
nicolaformichetti.blogspot.com
 
Miguel Enamorado Named Fashion Director at Interview
(NEW YORK) And we didn't even know they were hiring! Today, Interview magazine announced the promotion of Miguel Enamorado to fashion director. He has spent the last three years as the magazine's fashion market director under creative director Karl Templer. "I'm delighted to see this role filled by Miguel," said Templer, although the role was newly-created. "He's been a critical part of the fashion team at Interview for the past three years, and during that time has contributed to its success, demonstrating his understanding of the business as well as the magazine's creative vision. His voice was the obvious choice." Enamorado will take over some of the duties previously held by former market director Karla Martinez, who left Interview in August for the market director position at W magazine, where she was reunited with her former EIC from T, Stefano Tonchi.
ASHLEY BAKER
dailyfrontrow.com, 2011 January 19
 
Right. Enamorado is promoted to the newly created position of Fashion Director, and will report to the Creative Director Karl Templer.
 
Groupe Marie Claire Said to Be Launching French Edition of Harper's Bazaar
(PARIS) The Groupe Marie Claire is rumored to be preparing for the announcement of the launch of a French edition of Harper's Bazaar, The Daily has learned. So how does this tie into the Heast-buying-Elle story? Well, Elle's current parent company Lagardere owns a 42% stake in the Groupe, which publishes a variety of titles under the Marie Claire brand as well as consumer titles such as Cosmopolitan and Mariages. It's conceivable that Hearst, which owns Harper's Bazaar, is giving (or selling) GMC the rights to publish a French edition of Bazaar as part of its purchase of Elle. The Group Marie Claire declined comment this afternoon, but expect developments imminently.
D'ARCY FLUECK
dailyfrontrow.com, 2011 January 21
 
^This and Vanity Fair! Seems like I'm going to subscribe to two new mags :lol:
 

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