The Business of Magazines

[Benn98]

....... then Fabien at Emmanuelle's Vogue… that would be all kinds of wonderful.

Hahahahahahahaha!!!! Dream on, hot pubes.

As if Emmanuelle Alt will allow anyone with a voice which speaks anything other than 80s nostalgia in her midst! She doesn't deserve his brilliance.
I'm patient with Carine because her creative vocabulary is vast and this fact is known by many. So this is her second chance, her mea culpa for the years of fixating on star photographers. And it looks messy because contemporary photography is messy. But Baron can add his slick touch of refinement to her work which may help. I mean when you remove the Lexus from his Lexus advertorial, it was essentially a remarkably modern editorial. Something we desperately need right now.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I just hope Fabien to kick out Emmanuelle's team and to bring his own amazing team. VP deserves the best and not this annoying stylist stuck in the 80s. Now that Xavier Romatet is out, i try to be optimistic that the new CEO of Condé Nast will see how Emmanuelle is not good at all for this job.

 

[Lola701]

I think that Baron could do wonders with Carine as he could bring a bit of class in her newfound Hollywood-obsessed aesthetic.
I don’t see CRFB as a long-lasting publication and Carine has the talent, the influence and the capacity to takeover Bazaar. The one thing about her is her love for Money & Freedom which means, be able to have side consulting projects with big brands. That’s something impossible to do in America when you have such a top position.

I can see Templer at VP. I think the dynamic between him, Barbieri and Alt could work. He was also a part of the Carine’s era and delivered!
But Emmanuelle is very consistent and committed to her aesthetic.
She can either want to reinvent herself or CN could switch things up there.
Emmanuelle even with her 18years at Vogue doesn’t seems as ambitious as Carine was.

The «*Baron & Templer*» pair could go to Vogue Italia which is in serious need of a very clear direction. That Vogue really needs help in order to be relevant.

 

[Fiercification]

^^ The thing is that VP is actually probably the only Vogue (dare I say, even fashion magazine full stop) with an actual POV and provides decent, high-fashion imagery. Emmanuelle may be stuck in 80s autopilot, but that's not the case for Anastasia etc.! She does some great stories! I think the mag is doing fairly decently in terms of numbers as well, non? A change doesn't appear inevitable there, to me.

I actually thought Karl (and maybe Fabien) would be the perfect fit for revamped UK Vogue in recent months; despite opinions on here it actually has gives off the vibe of having some (international) cred now. I'm sure Edward wouldn't want his work/vision to be massively overshadowed though, so I guess I'll leave it at the musing above.

All I know is that a lot of talented and powerful visionaries in this industry have been wiped off the face of the planet recently. Brana Wolf hasn't produced an editorial in six years since leaving Bazaar, Paul Cavaco styles on rare occasions and Lori Goldstein has pretty much absconded fashion to sell wares on QVC. So I hope a similar fate doesn't befall KT in particular, now that he's out of a publication. I need some (freelance) editorials from him next season at least!

(Edit: Lola, as always, agree with all of the above as suggestions!)

 

[Benn98]

Now that Xavier Romatet is out, i try to be optimistic that the new CEO of Condé Nast will see how Emmanuelle is not good at all for this job.

This is great news! Thanks for sharing. It's been alluded on this forum before that Emmanuelle's ties to CN Paris bigwigs is too incestuous, which may be part of the reason why she's allowed to continue with this direction of hers for as long as she did. I don't think the magazine provide decent, high fashion imagery at all. Regurgitating the same crap over and over isn't innovation.

 

[caioherrero]

I think that Baron could do wonders with Carine as he could bring a bit of class in her newfound Hollywood-obsessed aesthetic.
I don’t see CRFB as a long-lasting publication and Carine has the talent, the influence and the capacity to takeover Bazaar. The one thing about her is her love for Money & Freedom which means, be able to have side consulting projects with big brands. That’s something impossible to do in America when you have such a top position.

I can see Templer at VP. I think the dynamic between him, Barbieri and Alt could work. He was also a part of the Carine’s era and delivered!
But Emmanuelle is very consistent and committed to her aesthetic.
She can either want to reinvent herself or CN could switch things up there.
Emmanuelle even with her 18years at Vogue doesn’t seems as ambitious as Carine was.

The «*Baron & Templer*» pair could go to Vogue Italia which is in serious need of a very clear direction. That Vogue really needs help in order to be relevant.

Really? KT worked at VP? Where can I find this edits?

I don’t see them going to work to a magazine outside NY.

 

[magsaddict]

So weird CN is not bringing it back, it seems like Vogue's are popping everywhere, but not Singapore?!

Maybe it's just a very crowded market? They already have HB, Elle, L'officiel, T plus all their local magazines. It's also mostly an english speaking/written magazine market, so they would have to go head to head with the other english editions of Vogue.

 

[caioherrero]

So weird CN is not bringing it back, it seems like Vogue's are popping everywhere, but not Singapore?!

I think they should let go the Vogue Latin America and create Argentina, Chile and Colombia.

 

[Benn98]

Maybe it's just a very crowded market? They already have HB, Elle, L'officiel, T plus all their local magazines. It's also mostly an english speaking/written magazine market, so they would have to go head to head with the other english editions of Vogue.

Same could be said about Poland, yet here we are....

 

[magsaddict]

but at least Vogue Poland is in polish, there's already four editions of Vogue in english after all.

 

[Benn98]

but at least Vogue Poland is in polish, there's already four editions of Vogue in english after all.

I was actually referring to the 'crowded' part of your comment. Quite frankly I don't understand why the language bit came up because an overwhelming percentage of Singaporeans speak English. Wouldn't make sense for them to publish in any other language anyway.

 

[magsaddict]

oh sorry! My point being, Singaporeans have access to four editions of Vogue in english, whereas readers in Poland or the UAE only now have access to Vogue in their language. I'm not saying they should publish it in any other language, I'm just hypothesising why it hasn't been relaunched.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Emmanuelle even with her 18years at Vogue doesn’t seems as ambitious as Carine was.

Well, she was ambitious enough to go see Jonathan and managed to make Carine fired and took her job at the end

I am really tired of her. VP is one of the big four and deserves better than just being consistent. With all the brands we have, the reputation of Paris and so on, VP is as dull as Vogue Germany imo when it should be as important and huge than US Vogue.

I am over VP under Carine. She did a wonderful job, bravo to her but i don't want to see her back in any magazine . I feel like Fabien will be capable to do wonders if he was the editor in chief of VP : his talent as art director is crazy, he is even quite a good photographer, his team around is amazing ( Mikael Jansson, Mark Carrasquillo, Karl Templer, Ludivine Poiblanc etc) . The only problem is once you are EIC, you are forbidden to do any commercial jobs and Fabien has Baron&Baron...

 

[caioherrero]

Well, she was ambitious enough to go see Jonathan and managed to make Carine fired and took her job at the end

I am really tired of her. VP is one of the big four and deserves better than just being consistent. With all the brands we have, the reputation of Paris and so on, VP is as dull as Vogue Germany imo when it should be as important and huge than US Vogue.

I am over VP under Carine. She did a wonderful job, bravo to her but i don't want to see her back in any magazine . I feel like Fabien will be capable to do wonders if he was the editor in chief of VP : his talent as art director is crazy, he is even quite a good photographer, his team around is amazing ( Mikael Jansson, Mark Carrasquillo, Karl Templer, Ludivine Poiblanc etc) . The only problem is once you are EIC, you are forbidden to do any commercial jobs and Fabien has Baron&Baron...

VP is be the best magazine of the big 4.
Vogue Italia, Uk and US are dumb.

 

[caioherrero]

I don't see Fabien going to live outside NYC.
So, the chances of VP is 0.

 

[Phuel]

I think that Baron could do wonders with Carine as he could bring a bit of class in her newfound Hollywood-obsessed aesthetic.

You’re too kind as usual, Lola… Carine is so far gone with her need to be associated with celebrities/Hollywood style of fashion, I can’t see her willingly coming back to unadulterated high fashion. People often mistaken celebrity fashion for high fashion. And so has Carine these days, apparently…

Emmanuelle may be mining the 70s-80s in a manner that turns some off, but she’s doing it better than anyone else in modernizing those bygone eras for the current times— a skill Fabien excels at also. Other Vogues have been desperately trying to keep up with that aesthetic— or blindly seeking any aesthetic: Look at Vogue Ukraine or Vogue Portugal— so desperate to be noticed, yet has absolutely nothing to say other than what others already have said. I suppose if I didn’t know much about fashion history, I’d fall for their brand of tributes to the great Vogues of the past as well: They’re excited kidz playing dress up with access to mum’s impressive designer closet.

Benn: Fabien’s timeless modern sensibilities are unrivalled, of course… (that Lexus advertorial— along with his discount-drugstore throwaway for Madonna’s terrifying bargain-bin perfume MDNA not withstanding…) He really doesn't need any of the names being thrown around, except for his team at Interview. But not a single design visionary has ever been perfect). And on impulse, Emmanuelle’s unshakeable 80s-direction is a surefire clash of sensibilities with Fabien’s. But since we’re fantasizing our high fashion dreamteam, I’d like to think of these two as the Tom Hardy and Charlize Theron of the high fashion publication realm, ego and all: and look how well Tom and Charlize turned Mad Max: Fury Road out…

 

[ash92]

So weird CN is not bringing it back, it seems like Vogue's are popping everywhere, but not Singapore?!

I think aside from a really crowded market, print in general isn't doing too hot in Singapore at the moment. With Elle being out of circulation (the Singapore edition) by the third quarter of this year, the only fashion-fashion magazines left are Harper's Bazaar and L'Officiel, and to a certain extent, T. However, it's difficult to sustain readership when at least half of the content are lifted from the parent publications which are already readily available in the market.

And to be honest, Vogues are so readily available in stores around the country that "Vogue Singapore" won't have a chance to stand out.

 

[magsaddict]

they're closing Elle Singapore?

I think you're right about the general availability of Vogues, and unless you're producing local content, what's really the point of launching another magazine.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

I think aside from a really crowded market, print in general isn't doing too hot in Singapore at the moment. With Elle being out of circulation (the Singapore edition) by the third quarter of this year, the only fashion-fashion magazines left are Harper's Bazaar and L'Officiel, and to a certain extent, T. However, it's difficult to sustain readership when at least half of the content are lifted from the parent publications which are already readily available in the market.

And to be honest, Vogues are so readily available in stores around the country that "Vogue Singapore" won't have a chance to stand out.

Interesting, it sucks Elle Singapore folded, i had no idea. It is a tough time for print. Thanks for the info, good to see at least HB is still doing well. Few issues i bought, i thought were well done.

 

[Lola701]

Well, she was ambitious enough to go see Jonathan and managed to make Carine fired and took her job at the end

Yes, maybe but being an EIC means being a team player and being at the service of the magazine.
Despite all the love and the respect I have for her, that wasn’t always the case with Carine and even more in the last 2 before her exit.

When as an EIC you spend that much time outside of your office, doing side projects and enjoying your newfound celebrity(even if she deserved that), it’s unhealthy for the publication and it open the door for a series of frustrations.

And let’s not forget that the Balenciaga thing raised questions on the integrity of the magazine. Having such a powerful publication being banned is a big deal.

While I loved the infamous Tom Ford issue, that was like the ultimate F*** you/ Ice on the cake. I don’t think Emmanuelle styled something in that issue...isn’t it?


But even if i’m pretty much satisfied with Alt’s vision, i wouldn’t be mad if a major change happens.

I think that Benjamin Bruno should be a fashion director with maybe Barbieri as en EIC.
Ludivine could also be an EIC.
The problem with Alt is that she has a very Franco-Parisienne vision of fashion. VP needs to be slightly more international in order to be as big as it was.