The Business of Magazines | Page 192 | the Fashion Spot

The Business of Magazines

Is Portugal the Next Fashion Capital of the World?
by Declan Eytan
forbes.com

This article looks more like a sales pitch than anything else. Some of the things being said, and I'm not talking about Vogue Portugal, are exposed in a rather... let's say... romantic way. I do believe Portugal has everything to become a big force in the fashion industry (with some very talented designers and a booming footwear-industry) and Vogue Portugal is indeed making waves around the world, don't get me wrong. But Lisbon is far from being the hub. The lack of reference to Oporto and Portugal Fashion (Oporto's fashion week that is growing every year and is now bigger than ModaLisboa) is hilarious. Even more so if you think that they have made an amazing effort for the past 10 years or so to export talent, creating partnerships with LFW, PFW and MFW in a way that up and coming Portuguese designers would have a place there to showcase their work. I could understand the absence if the title was "Is Lisbon the next fashion capital of the world?". But talking about the whole country and not talking about Portugal Fashion's efforts (and Prinçipal magazine and even Apiccaps and their magazine) is just ignorant.

That said, I'm extremely curious regarding this particular quote: «It is with this in mind that Vogue Portugal is developing a special project to be announced shortly.». Not sure which legacy Sofia is referring to. Maybe some kind of "artistic appropriation" of the past? Something along Joana Vasconcelos' work? Probably not, that would be far from groundbreaking, every morning TV show had at least 10 episodes focusing on traditional (late 19th century to be more precise) Portuguese costume and techniques. :lol: I would love a retrospective to our most recent history (90s/early 00s). Well... They sure got my attention!
 
Statement from Bob Sauerberg, CEO, Condé Nast: "Anna Wintour is an incredibly talented and creative leader whose influence is beyond measure. She is integral to the future of our company's transformation and has agreed to work with me indefinitely..." 1/2
"...in her role as @voguemagazine editor-in-chief and artistic director of Condé Nast." 2/2

 
If Hillary won and became president, then Anna is definitely going to leave for an ambassadorship to the UK. At this moment, she's not going anywhere and she's too powerful to be sacked.
 
For… ev…er.

=—=—=—=
IMO Condé Nast is going up for sale.
Soon.

God forbid, lol. At this stage maybe the sale of CN would be a blessing in disguise! The rise and rise of Hearst, with their really shoddy magazines, is proof that the issue isn't so much the state of print magazines, but the way CN is being managed. Just ask Gwyneth Paltrow! LOL.

It's interesting that Sauerberg sent out this message because they hardly ever engage in rumours. The news of Anna leaving must be affecting their advertisers.
 
The reason he made this big announcement now is because they made a deal with Anna, and could make it official. Don’t be fooled for a second thinking the rumors were fake. She was ready to leave, and they threw a mountain of $$$ her way, and she loved the wooing. Rumors are Wintour herself approved the leakers to NY Post.etc It wouldn’t surprise me if she used such power-play with CN suits.

Either way, she officially staying, man!! Such a bummer! It felt like perfect time for her to exit.
 
Rumors are Wintour herself approved the leakers to NY Post.etc.

I wouldn't put it past her to push up her stocks this way! She after all strategised her way into Vogue in a similar fashion. Quite disappointed that she's not leaving because I've actually made peace with the fact and looked forward to a new era at Vogue.
 
Good! As stale as she's become, she's still Anna glamour Wintour.
Edward can stay in his lane in Britain. I don't care about him or British Vogue.
 
I’m sure she pulled a Tom Ford but the only difference is that it worked for her!
Great for her but to be honest, the publishing world is in such a bad shape that her presence is a bit like a touch of comfort for everybody. The Wintour brand is as strong and prestigious as Vogue today that they would be a fool to do without it.
There’s no other editor (since Carine) that has had that level of celebrity.

I kinda admire her. She knows how to play her card and no matter how much of a dictator she is according to Ralph Rucci, she is Fashion today, for better or for worse.
 
I’m sure she pulled a Tom Ford but the only difference is that it worked for her!
Great for her but to be honest, the publishing world is in such a bad shape that her presence is a bit like a touch of comfort for everybody. The Wintour brand is as strong and prestigious as Vogue today that they would be a fool to do without it.

It will be interesting to see how she'll navigate her way without Tonne, Posnick, Grace, and Testino and with the new guard. If the feedback on her August issue is any indication, then I'm guessing not that great.
 
It will be interesting to see how she'll navigate her way without Tonne, Posnick, Grace, and Testino and with the new guard. If the feedback on her August issue is any indication, then I'm guessing not that great.

Since Tonne and Phyllis are staying in one capacity or another (just not full-time like before), I'm sure Anna will be fine for a few years - or rather until she solidifies the new direction for Vogue. Surely there will be lows but I'm open to see how the team is going to experiment in the near future and how many new talents Vogue supports.
 
For… ev…er.

=—=—=—=

:rofl: I wonder what that contract looks like! Is it like Karl at Chanel, for life? I mean damn, she might even break the record of Edna Woolman Chase who was EIC for 36 years, i think. She ain’t going nowhere!! Edward will have to wait.........
 
By this point in time, she IS American Vogue - so it's probably best for the brand if she stays on. But she's delivering the slow, cool kiss of death to every other magazine she's currently involved with.
 
I wouldn't put it past her to push up her stocks this way! She after all strategised her way into Vogue in a similar fashion. Quite disappointed that she's not leaving because I've actually made peace with the fact and looked forward to a new era at Vogue.

What happened in the past?
 
:rofl: I wonder what that contract looks like! Is it like Karl at Chanel, for life? I mean damn, she might even break the record of Edna Woolman Chase who was EIC for 36 years, i think. She ain’t going nowhere!! Edward will have to wait.........
But the only difference is that there’s a loyalty thing going on between Karl and the two Weirthemer brothers as they were the ones who were instrumental with him being at Chanel.
It’s pretty sure that their succession will have another designer who will represent their era.

I’m pretty sure that Jonathan Newhouse is dying to see someone he has choose take over American Vogue.

This looks more like the Karl and Fendi thing. Karl wanted to leave Fendi in the mid 00´s but because he was an asset to the brand, Arnault made everything in his power to make him stay.

For me Anna should leave when she is on top because I’m not sure that Jonathan would hire someone she groomed. She is a pop culture icon at this point. She can be or do whatever she wants...
Her man is a billionaire, she is rich and powerful on her own but I guess being the most powerful woman in the industry is an addictive position to be in. I’m not sure anybody can afford to be that powerful in the future.
 
Vogue are running sponsored instagram clips of the Edward/Rihanna chat.
 
Cristine Centenera just posted a pic in One World Trade Center saying new office. Anyone know if she’s going to CN US?
 
Here we go...
W up for sale.

Facing Losses, Condé Nast Plans to Put 3 Magazines Up for Sale
Anna Wintour is staying, but the once-flush company behind Vogue and The New Yorker lost roughly $120 million last year.


Aug. 1, 2018

Condé Nast, the company behind Vogue, Vanity Fair and The New Yorker, became one of the most successful magazine publishers by charming readers and advertisers alike with a formula built on old-world glamour and all-American pizazz. But now, even after having taken measures to cut spending and make itself more digitally savvy, the company is expected to adopt a more radical strategy to ensure that it does not fade away.

Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., the chief executive of Condé Nast, plans to address senior staff members on Aug. 8. The meeting will come in the wake of an extended visit from Boston Consulting Group, which recently concluded a monthslong examination.

It does not promise to be a cheerful gathering. According to more than a dozen current and former Condé Nast executives, who spoke on the condition of anonymity in order to discuss internal matters, the measures instituted at the company over the last decade — closing Details and the print versions of Self and Teen Vogue; laying off some 80 employees last year; combining the photo and research departments of different magazines — have not been enough to stem the bleeding.

The company lost more than $120 million last year and plans to put three of its 14 magazines — Brides, Golf Digest and W — up for sale, three executives said. The marquee titles, including Vogue, Vanity Fair and The New Yorker, are safe.

In a cost-saving measure, the company will also soon begin the process of leasing at least six of its 23 floors at 1 World Trade Center, the Lower Manhattan tower that has been its headquarters since 2015. The New Yorker and Vanity Fair will be among the magazines that will eventually be moved to make room for new tenants.

Condé Nast built its business — and mystique — by excelling in the now-antiquated art of making magazines. They were costly to produce but highly profitable, as a whole, and editors like Diana Vreeland, Tina Brown, Anna Wintour and Graydon Carter became cultural arbiters who traveled in the same circles as the people they chronicled.

While the company’s troubles are not so severe as those hitting other media organizations in recent days — the Tronc-owned Daily News lost half its newsroom last month — they are unsettling to veterans at a company where top editors once had roomy offices designed to their own specifications, the everyday use of chauffeured cars and, for a favored few, no-interest loans to ease the purchases of Manhattan brownstones and even second homes.

But the decades-long magazine boom that made such trappings possible is a thing of the past. A change in media-consumption habits has elevated Instagram, Snapchat and YouTube above the printed page. Before Time Inc. was sold to the Meredith Corporation, it experienced sharp declines in annual revenue. The ad buying firm Magna projects print magazine ad sales will fall by a double-digit rate this year.

Some longtime Condé Nast employees are wondering how much of the company’s decline can be attributed to the diminished state of print media and how much is the result of self-inflicted wounds.

Contributing to low morale at 1 World Trade was a sense that the company’s leadership was in flux, which resulted partly from a recent spate of articles and items speculating on the future of Ms. Wintour, the editor of Vogue since 1988 and the company’s artistic director. The gossip had it that she was looking to make an exit from Vogue after publishing her next September issue, with Beyoncé on the cover.

More than a top executive and editor, Ms. Wintour, with her trademark flapper’s bob and Chanel sunglasses, serves as a company avatar. Meryl Streep portrayed an exaggerated version of her in “The Devil Wears Prada,” and Ms. Wintour played herself in the recent “Ocean’s 8,” a movie largely centered on the Met Gala, the yearly New York benefit that she stage-manages with the assistance of 175 Vogue employees.

Mr. Sauerberg tried to stifle the chatter on Tuesday, when he released a statement that Ms. Wintour “has agreed to work with me indefinitely in her role as editor in chief, Vogue, and artistic director of Condé Nast.”

It will take more than corporate stability, however, to reverse the company’s slide.

The $120 million loss in 2017 came about because of a sharp decline in ad revenue generated by the print magazines. Gains in the digital arena have helped offset the loss, but not enough to make the company profitable. Condé Nast reached its decision to entertain offers for Brides, Golf Digest and W partly on the recommendation of Boston Consulting Group, the three executives said.

Condé Nast declined to comment for this article.

John Wagner, who oversees ad spending with publishers at the media agency PHD, questioned the company’s strategy, saying that Condé Nast can be “quick to close things, versus trying to find a solution.” He added, “I’d like to see them continue to invest — keep the brands alive, even if you have to change their rate base or publishing frequency.”

Expense budgets, already less than what they were in the days of leisurely lunches, are getting tighter. One publication recently informed its contract writers that their fees had been cut, according to two people at the company.

The $120 million loss — for a publisher once accustomed to hundreds of millions in annual profits — has put pressure on Mr. Sauerberg, who joined Condé Nast as an executive vice president in 2005 and rose to the top position in 2016.

The Newhouse family remains at the helm. It entered the magazine business in 1959, when Samuel I. Newhouse, a self-made newspaper magnate, bought Condé Nast for $5 million. His elder son, Samuel I. Newhouse Jr., known as Si, expanded the company after taking charge in 1975. During his roughly 40 years as chief executive, the self-effacing mogul, who died last October, revived a moribund publication, Vanity Fair, purchased GQ and The New Yorker, and installed Ms. Wintour as the editor of Vogue.

Condé Nast is a subsidiary of a Newhouse company, Advance Publications, which is controlled by Donald Newhouse, 89, and his son, Steven O. Newhouse, 61. Jonathan Newhouse, 65, a cousin of Si, is the chairman of Condé Nast International, home to British Vogue and dozens of other international editions. That arm is something of a corporate oasis, given that Europeans, unlike Americans, have yet to give up the magazine habit.

While many of the roughly 30 newspapers in the Newhouse chain have endured layoffs and other cost-saving measures, the Newhouses’ fortunes have not suffered, thanks to the family’s $10.4 billion sale of its cable businesses to Charter Communications in 2016. A provision in the deal gives Advance an additional annual payment of $150 million, cushioning the parent company from any recent losses.

Condé Nast has gone through fits and starts as it has sought to revise its corporate identity for the digital age. Dawn Ostroff, the head of Condé Nast Entertainment, left for Spotify last month with little warning. The company also lost another top lieutenant last month with the exit of Josh Stinchcomb, who oversaw 23 Stories, the company’s in-house advertising unit.

The business Ms. Ostroff oversaw, which got its start in 2011, is focused on the development of digital video, film and television projects. It is very much on the rise and will significantly narrow the company’s losses this year, two executives said. Mr. Sauerberg highlighted the division earlier this summer in a companywide email. “We crossed an important milestone,” he said. “Our web and video businesses have grown so significantly, their revenue surpassed print for the first time in the company’s history.”
source | nytimes
 
continued...

After decades of arresting covers featuring stars like Katharine Hepburn (Vanity Fair, April 1934) and Rihanna (Vogue, June 2018), Condé Nast is morphing from a company of glossy print magazines with high-priced ads into a producer of short-form videos with commercials. The videos include how-to shorts affiliated with Glamour and Allure and celebrity interviews produced for Vogue and W. The Vogue series, “73 Questions With,” has generated more than 300 million views since it began in 2014.

Each month the company produces an average of 417 videos that play on YouTube, Facebook, Snapchat and its own websites. Some tackle subjects not often associated with Condé Nast. “Last Chance U,” a documentary series focused on college athletes from disadvantaged backgrounds, stands out from the rest. Produced by Condé Nast, it appears on Netflix.

Condé Nast has made some bad bets. It pulled the plug last year on its attempt at an online fashion retail site, Style.com, after nine months of development and an investment of more than $100 million. But recent investments may lift its online ad business. Advance spent $500 million in 2015 to acquire 1010data Inc., a start-up that helps collect and analyze data for advertising and subscription purposes. Last year Condé Nast bought CitizenNet, which helps the company sell targeted ads.

Radhika Jones, editor of Vanity Fair, one of Condé Nast’s highest-profile titles, at the magazine’s Founders Fair in April.Dia Dipasupil/Getty Images for Vanity Fair
The main obstacle, though, has been the loss in print readers and advertising dollars. Circulation continued to fall through May of this year. And as iPhone-entranced pedestrians drifted past newsstands, the company lost more than 20 percent of its ad pages last year, according to figures from the research firm Kantar Media.

A sign of things to come was the hiring last year of Samantha Barry, who succeeded Cindi Leive, a Condé Nast veteran, as the editor of Glamour. Ms. Barry had no experience as a print editor, having run social media for CNN before taking over the magazine, and when her first issue landed in the spring, eyes within the company were fixed on the cover.

Starkly designed, with a heavy white border, it featured the actress Melissa McCarthy under the theme, “#the money issue,” hashtag and all. The verdict? A few editors were not impressed, according to several people familiar with the matter. It looked like a facsimile of a magazine, one said.

But that same cover elicited a different reaction from younger staff members, who are at a great remove from the company’s mythos.

“Awesome!” a young editor said.
source | nytimes
 

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