The Business of Magazines



A certain X account noticed that Vogue deleted the Macarena video from a few years ago and another mentioned than even de Dua's World was removed too. I remembered both were directed by Bardia Zeinali so, I searched other ones directed by him like I Love NY and Camp Movie and also, were deleted. Does anyone know if something happened between them? The last time they worked together was last year for the Vogue World video and the short version of it is the only available on their channel.
 
Can anyone explain to me what The Double Vision by Luigi and Iango even is? They say its a platform, but is an instagram account really a platform? It doesnt seem like much of a platform especially considering Instagram restricts free expression including theirs. I'm just trying to figure out if I am missing something here.
 
@SLFC I think you've got it, but I think their most recent issue was actually printed?

Honestly, it's just a way to for them to present themselves as more important/better photographers than they really are. It's pretentious. They're such hacks and I can't believe the praise they get.
 
@SLFC I think you've got it, but I think their most recent issue was actually printed?

Honestly, it's just a way to for them to present themselves as more important/better photographers than they really are. It's pretentious. They're such hacks and I can't believe the praise they get.
I love their work, its just annoying. Instagram is not the best place. Also I dont even know if their most recent one was ever printed. I'd buy it in a heartbeat.
 
Can anyone explain to me what The Double Vision by Luigi and Iango even is? They say its a platform, but is an instagram account really a platform? It doesnt seem like much of a platform especially considering Instagram restricts free expression including theirs. I'm just trying to figure out if I am missing something here.
I've seen Marc Jacobs's book store post a physical copy of double vision. I think its just a photobook
 
They should make Lila the editor-in-chief now. A) she's young B) nepotism C) we won't have to endure her "modeling." I think it makes sense.
 
Vogue France 2024 circulation
- Under Eugénie Trochu
February: 80,410 (Chloë Sevigny)
March: 81,505 (Liu Wen)
April: 87,157 (Sophie Marceau)
May: 110,842 (Celine Dion)
June/July: 125,206 (Gigi Hadid)
August: 106,103 (Kendall Jenner)
September: 94,092 (Vivienne Rohner)
October: 83,252 (Anok Yai)
November: 79,629 (Anne Hathaway)
- Under Claire Thomson-Jonville
December/January: 104,082 (Loli Bahia)
Total: 952,278

Harper's Bazaar France 2024 circulation
February:
72,684 (Karolina Spakowski)
March: 75,384 (Kate Moss, other cover: Edie Campbell)
April: 71,647 (Kaia Gerber)
May: 76,960 (Naomi Campbell, Mica Arganaraz)
June/July: 83,364 (Devyn Garcia, Angelina Kendall, Ella McCutcheon, Awar Odhiang)
August: 71,708 (Zaho de Sagazan)
September: 42,354 (Layla Etengan)
October: 46,930 (Irina Shayk)
November: 36,993 (Gigi Hadid)
December/January: 24,246 (Laetitia Casta)
Total: 602,270
How does someone find this? I wonder what the circulation is for British Vogue after Edward left & Vogue Poland
 
How does someone find this? I wonder what the circulation is for British Vogue after Edward left & Vogue Poland
It depends. Most French magazines can be found at acpm.fr, British magazines at abc.org.uk, and American magazines at auditedmedia.com. This website (ifabc.org) has a link to most circulation bureaus worldwide; however, not all magazines post their circulation numbers, and some countries' circulation bureaus have been closed or they have multiple so it can make it harder to find certain title's circulation numbers.

From what I can find Polish Vogue does not report its circulation numbers.
 
Yes, UK figures are published by the Audit Bureau of Circulations (ABC) and the numbers are generally known as ABCs (although not every magazine/newspaper is part of this). You can have a look at some recent figures at the Press Gazette article:


What that doesn't do is break down how those figures are calculated, in terms of what might count as print circulation (e.g. free copies vs bought copies) and what counts as digital circulation (the digital issue coming free with the print subscription, or pushing it via other means than purchasing it, like through free library services).

Not surprised that the UK print version of Vanity Fair has seen a big drop - amongst other things, it has an abysmal page count at an ever-increasing cover price.
 
Hmm... it will be interesting to see who replaces her/how she's replaced. I don't think she was that bad as an editor, she was finding her groove with the last year-ish, I think.
 
Hmm... it will be interesting to see who replaces her/how she's replaced. I don't think she was that bad as an editor, she was finding her groove with the last year-ish, I think.

it took a long time for her to get it together. VF has been okay, but despite it plateauing, it did have some awful covers during her tenure. whoever is the next EIC has to have some spunk or better savvy than her.
 
- Editor steps down from high profile Conde Nast title
- Nobody much cares

It's probably hard for a magazine to keep pace with covering the 1% in media, technology and politics when you don't have the funding to generate the calibre of content that sets you apart from others.

Also, the waxing and waning of the fortunes of the Democrats likely affects the magazine, given how firmly they plant their flag on that side of the street.

Although I find Vanity Fair's take on politics to be partisan to the point of appearing unintelligent, from that embarrassing Beto O'Rourke "born to be in it" cover story to those illustrations accompanying profiles that would depict "enemies" as monstrous caricatures. You can't fill your pages with high-minded rhetoric about inclusion and open-mindedness, and then behave at that base level with your portrayals of people you don't agree with. If you're not applying the same approach to everyone, you aren't operating on the basis of your principles, just favouritism. If the magazine wants to skewer its foes, they should do it without the hypocrisy of pretending they're taking the high road.

Funding also seems to have affected the interactions between the London office and the rest of the magazine - where once there was a nuanced take on British issues, now they're just used to prop up whatever American-centric points the magazine wishes to make, taken out of context in tone-deaf ways.

You might be thinking, but Vanity Fair is an American magazine - in the UK, it's not sold as an import magazine, it appears on the newsstand like it's produced in the UK, directly priced in £, but with no thought given as to whether the cover has any appeal in this country. We might not be a big slice of the market, but we're absolutely an afterthought at this point in time.

Radhika's Vanity Fair seemed to come alive when taking about books - perhaps unsurprisingly, given her experience in that subject, much in the same way that UK Vogue currently has a particular love for covering music (I wonder if inspired by Chioma's time at Trace magazine?) And that's great, but do those areas match what the reader really wants from their Vanity Fair or Vogue?
 

Condé Nast Taps Major China Rival for GQ Hong Kong Launch​

Tianwei Zhang
Amid a yearlong vacancy of GQ in China, Alex Sun, who runs the Chinese editions of W and Marie Claire, will serve as executive director of GQ Hong Kong, slated for a print launch in September.

April 15, 2025, 11:14am
Alex Sun

Alex Sun Courtesy
LONDON — Condé Nast has granted its Hong Kong-based licensing partner, Rubicon Publishing Ltd., the publisher of Vogue Hong Kong, [the licence] to launch a local edition for the men’s fashion title GQ, first digitally in the summer and then in print for September.

It marks Condé Nast’s latest effort to reclaim some of the sizable Chinese men’s media budget left unbagged following the exit of GQ China last July when it broke off with its local publishing partner Zhizu Magazine, a subsidiary of China News Service, a state-owned news agency based in Beijing.

In the Chinese market, fashion glossies exist as syndications that copublish with a state-owned entity, which grants the publication its ISSN number, its Chinese title and has the final say on all editorial content.

GQ China was launched as a partnership between Condé Nast China and Zhizu of China News Service in September 2009. In recent years, GQ China has had an uneasy relationship with China News Service, according to former employees at GQ.

While there has been speculation of a revival of GQ China in the past year — with some claiming that Jonathan Newhouse personally intervened to improve the relationship between Condé Nast and the Chinese authorities, hoping for a new permit — not much solid progress has been made so far.

GQ China's June issue.

GQ China’s June issue. Courtesy
The launch of GQ Hong Kong, however, would be a viable route to not only raise Hong Kong’s voice in the global men’s media landscape but also attract big, China spending from top-tier luxury brands.

Fashion content is predominantly consumed via social media platforms like Xiaohongshu, WeChat and Weibo, instead of print in the Greater China region these days, meaning it doesn’t matter as much as before whether a cover is from GQ China or GQ Hong Kong.

Rubicon Publishing said GQ Hong Kong will be published across social media platforms and a print presence in traditional Chinese with a bilingual website. It added that the management team’s international exposure and expertise will grant GQ Hong Kong a global-local narrative for the region’s audience.

Desiree Au, publisher of Vogue Hong Kong, will also take the role of GQ Hong Kong’s publisher. Jumius Wong, a fashion veteran from Singapore, will serve as GQ Hong Kong’s editorial director.

But what got the local industry excited over the launch was the appointment of Alex Sun as executive director of GQ Hong Kong.

Sun is the chief executive officer of MC Style Media Co. Ltd., which publishes the Chinese editions of W and Marie Claire. He will continue to oversee both titles while consulting for GQ Hong Kong, according to people familiar with the matter.

Under his singular vision, both W China and Marie Claire China became highly regarded among readers and advertisers in the Chinese market. Many would agree that MC Style Media is one of Condé Nast’s biggest rivals in the Chinese market.

With Sun overlooking the launch of GQ Hong Kong, some speculate that MC Style Media might have reached some sort of agreement with Rubicon Publishing to expand the title’s appeal beyond Hong Kong and dip into the much more lucrative mainland China market.

Over the years, GQ has developed an entirely different ecosystem and business model in China from the rest of the world with the launch of the WeChat-based GQ Lab, which was helmed by Vogue China’s current editorial director, Rocco Liu.

GQ Lab, which is now not owned by Condé Nast but China News Service and was rebranded as Zhizu Lab, was a fashion digital media powerhouse with millions of followers.

At its peak, GQ Lab could command around 500,000 renminbi, or $70,500, for a single social media post. Condé Nast China back then also disclosed that GQ China became the most profitable edition due to the success of GQ Lab, yielding 200 million renminbi in revenue in 2018, an amount equivalent to several European editions combined.

Apart from WeChat, GQ Lab had more than 4.8 million followers on Weibo, Douyin and Xiaohongshu.

With Sun’s involvement, it’s logical to assume that GQ Hong Kong would want to build its very own GQ Lab-style product fit for today across Chinese social media.

Sun himself launched a popular travel lifestyle WeChat account during the first wave of the social media boom circa 2013. He now runs a successful personal account on Xiaohogshu, and both Marie Claire China and W China are highly digitally savvy as well.

The highly regarded editor began his career in fashion media at Esquire China in 2009. He worked at GQ China as lifestyle director between 2011 and 2016 and later served as editorial director of Condé Nast Traveler until he joined MC Style Media in 2018, which was backed by Chinese apparel giant Heilan Group and independent investors.

Sun has told WWD in a previous interview that the success of legacy media in mainland China “comes down to doing the hard work and pushing for exclusive content, content that our peers are unwilling to put the effort and money into doing, or simply have no resources to produce.”
wwd.com
 

EXCLUSIVE: L’Officiel Ventures Into Hospitality With First Coffee Outpost in Tokyo​

Martino Carrera
The three-story L’Officiel Coffee bows this week in luxury retail district Omotesando.

April 16, 2025, 12:01am
Some of the drinks and pastries offered at L'Officiel Coffee in Tokyo's Omotesando.

Some of the drinks and pastries offered at L'Officiel Coffee in Tokyo's Omotesando. Courtesy of L'Officiel
MILAN L’Officiel is to serve coffee and sweets, in addition to fashion news.

The glossy fashion title, originally established in France in 1921 and now published in 30 editions globally, is debuting its first hospitality concept dubbed L’Officiel Coffee in Tokyo’s luxury retail district Omotesando.

The three-story building, revamped by architect Keiji Ashizawa, offers a multifaceted experience that goes beyond gastronomy, signaling the magazine‘s ambitions to venture into lifestyle activations.

The ground floor is dedicated to the café area, with customized bar tableware, pastries and for-sale merchandise. The first floor houses an exhibition space where archival L’Officiel issues are displayed in glass cabinets, while the second floor is home to L’Officiel Bar, a cocktail bar for after-hours drinks and aperitivo with caviar blinis, egg and truffle sandwiches, as well as Champagne.

“With L’Officiel Coffee, we wanted to bring the brand’s heritage of fashion, culture and editorial excellence into a physical space — an experience that feels refined, intentional and globally relevant. Japan was the ideal starting point,” said Dr. Calvin Choi, global chairman of L’Officiel and The Art Newspaper, and founder of AMTD IDEA, a subsidiary of AMTD Group, the owner of both titles.
LOfficiel-Coffee-in-Tokyos-Omotesando.1.jpg

L’Officiel Coffee in Tokyo’s Omotesando. Courtesy of L’Officiel
“Tokyo in particular has a vibrant, globally respected coffee and culinary scene. It attracts a discerning audience that appreciates detail, design and depth. We saw an opportunity to create something that honors that sensibility while introducing a new kind of cultural destination — one where fashion media meets taste, atmosphere and timeless elegance,” he offered.

Officially promoted by L’Officiel Japan, a title introduced in September 2024, the development is to be brought to other countries, too. Although detailed plans for a subsequent international rollout are still work in progress, Choi said Paris, New York, London and Singapore are high on his agenda.

“L’Officiel has over a century of history, and yet it remains incredibly relevant to modern trends, and it always stays ahead of any latest developments. It resonates globally because it speaks to a generation that values both heritage and innovation,” Choi said about the enduring relevance and brand awareness of the title.
Some-of-the-drinks-and-pastries-offered-at-LOfficiel-Coffee-in-Tokyos-Omotesando.2.jpg

Some of the drinks and pastries offered at L’Officiel Coffee in Tokyo’s Omotesando. Courtesy of L’Officiel
“This café is part of a broader strategy to expand L’Officiel into a holistic lifestyle and luxury brand. Beyond publishing, we’re looking at physical spaces, hospitality, gastronomy, digital innovation and collaborations that bring our creative DNA into people’s daily lives,” he offered.

The Omotesando building was revamped in classical French style, with plastered walls by Japanese shokunin, or local master artisans, herringbone-patterned parquet flooring, and an earthy color palette. Bespoke furniture including the fluted wood and marble counter on the ground floor and leather sofas and cushions add a sophisticated flair. The three floors are connected by the original staircase, a centerpiece of the whole building.
LOfficiel-Coffee-in-Tokyos-Omotesando.2.jpg

L’Officiel Coffee in Tokyo’s Omotesando. Courtesy of L’Officiel
AMTD Group is a Hong Kong-based conglomerate with a core business portfolio spanning across media and entertainment, education and training, as well as premium assets and hospitality.
wwd.com
 


A certain X account noticed that Vogue deleted the Macarena video from a few years ago and another mentioned than even de Dua's World was removed too. I remembered both were directed by Bardia Zeinali so, I searched other ones directed by him like I Love NY and Camp Movie and also, were deleted. Does anyone know if something happened between them? The last time they worked together was last year for the Vogue World video and the short version of it is the only available on their channel.

I read on instagram (so grain of salt and all that) that Vogue didn’t pay for music rights.
 

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